Date   
Re: Bitx40

Evan Hand
 

Do you have access to a miniUSB (not micro) cable that you could use to connect the nano to your phone charger (assuming it is USB and not USB C) ?  If so, you could use that to do the power test mentioned in the prior emails.

Re: Rotary encoder

Peter Russell <peter.russell@...>
 

Thanks Jack.
Is there a particular type or spec that I should look for?

Peter.

On 01/01/2019 15:34, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io wrote:
First, try moving the encoder leads and see if it has an impact. If that fails, try a Bourne (or better type) encoder. If that fails, see if you can find a reasonably-priced optical encoder. I'm no EE, but these might help.
Jack, W8TEE
On Tuesday, January 1, 2019, 7:11:00 AM EST, Peter Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:
Another little problem.
I'm finding that the rotary encoder is generating quite a bit of noise.
I can hear every 'tick' when I turn it.
Is this normal, or have I got a bad un?
I don't have any experience of rotary encoders, but this one seems a bit
'flimsy'.
I would have expected something a bit more substantial - or is this just
me being a bit picky?
Peter G8FWY
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Re: Microphony

Jerry Gaffke
 

I've never done it that way, nipping a cold SMD part with a pair of cutters..
Mechanical stresses would be considerable, this never separates copper pad from board?

I generally use two soldering irons, heat both ends simultaneously.
Then pick the part up using the two irons like tweezers.


On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 04:06 AM, Peter Russell wrote:
Cured!
turned out to be C50 in the audio pre amp.
replaced it with a leaded electrolytic.

A little tip - for those who need it!
If you know that you are going to replace a smd capacitor or resistor, I find the easiest way to remove them is to take a pair of small cutters and cut the component in half.
Then, with a pair of tweezers, it's easy to unsolder the two ends.

Peter G8FWY

Re: DSP cheap for qrp

Joshua Blanton
 

Giuseppe,

I looked up the specs on the Teensy audio board, and I don't see any reason that it couldn't be wired to an STM32 (it's just an I2S codec; only marginally different than using separate ADC and DAC boards) - but it does somewhat defeat the low-cost goal (as the audio board is 3x the price of the core processor board!).  It has the huge advantage of being of known quality, though, as it's been used in several SDR projects at this point.

There are pre-assembled modules for DACs and ADCs that are available from the usual China resellers; I found a PCM1808 board (a 24bit/96kHz ADC) reasonably available, and also a PCM5102A board (up to 32bit/384kHz!) that is available.  I have direct experience with the PCM180x family of ADCs, but know nothing about the PCM510x family.

Jack,

The JackAl looks like a really interesting project.  The Teensy in general looks interesting, as it can leverage the Arduino ecosystem.  I've never really delved into the Arduino realm, as it never made sense professionally - but I have family and friends who use it often, along with everyone here and in many radio projects.

Happy New Year, everyone!
Josh, KB8NYP

On Tue, Jan 1, 2019 at 10:41 AM Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
JackAl is using the Teensy 3.6 and has the speed (180MHz) and memory resources (1Mb flash, 256K SRAM) for us to do very good DSP using their audio board. Paul has written a very useful FFT library for it, too. The bad news is that the Teensy 3.6 and audio board together cost $44. On the plus side, it works very well with the Arduino IDE.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, January 1, 2019, 4:06:12 AM EST, giuseppe callipo <ik8yfw@...> wrote:


Thanks Josh and Happy new year. 
The first project was that based on f103, It was like a challenge to make e cheapest dsp ever, if you follow the link GitHub of the 103 you will found the schematic jpg.
Forse the Stm32f4 instead, i will consider also a discovery series st board but It Is more expensive and the ADC on boarboard can work only at audio frequencies. I make this project as starting point, for example increasing the sample frequency you can transform It from audio DSP to if-dsp and out inside other code to handle modulation like the ArmRadio project that you found with a simple search. Of course of the finalmente use Is as audio DSP the best solution Is using a discovery board or ADC DAC card interfaced by i2c, the code change only the ADC DAC setup. In the next days i Hope to add some info about the schematic, but are only wire cinnections and a small module to get signal in out the Stm32.
There are some experiences with the convolution filtering that need to do but Need a lot of study about It 

Have a nice day, if you can some tests send me info about It.
Best 73 and Happy new year. Ik8yfw

Re: My list of mods and Chronology of Installation #ubitx

Roy Appleton
 

Daniel,

Thanks for this concise list!

Roy
WA0YMH


On Mon, Dec 31, 2018, 9:48 PM Daniel Conklin <danconklin2@... wrote:
  1. I ordered my uBITwX December 29, 2017 and received it on March 2, 2018.  It was a version 3 with the WX branded TDA2822 audio chip. By the time I was ready to assemble, Ron, W7HD had posted a fix using a voltage regulator.  This was my first mod and I have had good working audio since then. https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/44099

  2. The second mod I implemented was installing the KD8CEC firmware which was more intuitive for me and solved some issues such as keying responsiveness.  http://www.hamskey.com/2018/05/ubitx-firmware-cec-version-108-release.html

  3. The third mod was to add a short USB cable from the Arduino Nano to allow data access outside the case.

  4. The forth mod was adding the click-pop suppression kit from Don ND6T, Wayne VA7AT, and kitted by Kees K5BCQ. http://ubitx.net/2018/03/02/audio-pop-fix/

  5. The fifth mod was the RF output peaking mod suggested by Howard Fidel WB2VXW https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/46616

  6. The sixth mod was the ND6T AGC kit that I got from K5BCQ at the same time as the click-pop kit.  When I installed that, I used Kees’s installation suggestions for mounting it on the main board, added an RF attenuator/gain control as suggested by ND6T, and also hooked a wire from J1 to the purple analog wire on the Raduino to give me an S meter. http://www.nd6t.com/uBITX/AGCkit.htm

  7. While I had the board on the table I also changed R250 to 100K to reduce the sidetone level and replaced the C1 cap with a 1μF to shape the CW note. https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/51673

  8. Then I changed the relays to Axicoms  as suggested by Mike W0MNE, to reduce harmonics when using SSB on the lower HF bands.  https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/60368

  9. Finally, I replaced L7 and L5 with SMT inductors as suggested by Raj VU2ZAP to reduce spurs on the higher HF bands.  https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/27154925#60729

I am very happy with how well my uBITX functions at this point and have the placed it in a small Apache case behind an aluminum faceplate I fabricated.  The whole thing is pretty rugged and works well with a three cell 18650 battery pack. I finally have the spy radio I have always wanted. 73 and Happy New Year!  Dan W2DLC

 

Re: nanos on sale at banggood for $2.39 USD #arduino #nano

John
 

That's what I was thinking. There's nothing time deterministic, and if there was, a cheap GPS would be the way to go (as was done in the KiwiSDR).   At the price point of these, I doubt either of the oscillator references (resonator or crystal) are particularly precise (they can't be paying more than a dime or so for either version in the quantities they're making) and since they're trim- to-spec, they're not buying much. :-)

Temp stability may (or may not) be better, but it's likely a "dont care" for almost all applications. 
John K5MO

Re: DSP cheap for qrp

giuseppe callipo
 

Thanks for Infos we well see in the next project phases. For now i will works on functionality. Any helps Will be wellcome, the project Is opensource.
Thank you very mutch to all for interesting in the project.

G.

Re: Bitx40

ae1ct1998 <AE1CT1998@...>
 

My cell phone


On Tue, Jan 1, 2019, 10:30 Evan Hand <elhandjr@... wrote:
The first picture is correct mounting: the USB connector and reset button are between the two boards.  There is history there that the original design had the Nano on the other side of the Raduino board.  That was changed to allow the display to be closely mounted to the Raduino.  Moving it to the other side would have either required a redesign of the Raduino board layout, or install the Nano pins on the "wrong" side of the device and plug it in that way.  No real need to get to the reset switch, and the USB port is still accessible.

BTW, how do you get email or search the web?  Are you doing it on a phone or tablet?

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: DSP cheap for qrp

Riccardo M
 

Hi Giuseppe,
maybe you can take a look to
-ads1115 ( i2c 16 bit ADC+pga for 1.3€ on AliExpress)
-mcp4725 (i2c 12bit DAC for 0.68€ on AliExpress)

i am following your project with great interest!
best regards

Riccardo IU4IRC

Re: DSP cheap for qrp

Jack, W8TEE
 

JackAl is using the Teensy 3.6 and has the speed (180MHz) and memory resources (1Mb flash, 256K SRAM) for us to do very good DSP using their audio board. Paul has written a very useful FFT library for it, too. The bad news is that the Teensy 3.6 and audio board together cost $44. On the plus side, it works very well with the Arduino IDE.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, January 1, 2019, 4:06:12 AM EST, giuseppe callipo <ik8yfw@...> wrote:


Thanks Josh and Happy new year. 
The first project was that based on f103, It was like a challenge to make e cheapest dsp ever, if you follow the link GitHub of the 103 you will found the schematic jpg.
Forse the Stm32f4 instead, i will consider also a discovery series st board but It Is more expensive and the ADC on boarboard can work only at audio frequencies. I make this project as starting point, for example increasing the sample frequency you can transform It from audio DSP to if-dsp and out inside other code to handle modulation like the ArmRadio project that you found with a simple search. Of course of the finalmente use Is as audio DSP the best solution Is using a discovery board or ADC DAC card interfaced by i2c, the code change only the ADC DAC setup. In the next days i Hope to add some info about the schematic, but are only wire cinnections and a small module to get signal in out the Stm32.
There are some experiences with the convolution filtering that need to do but Need a lot of study about It 

Have a nice day, if you can some tests send me info about It.
Best 73 and Happy new year. Ik8yfw

Re: Rotary encoder

Jack, W8TEE
 

First, try moving the encoder leads and see if it has an impact. If that fails, try a Bourne (or better type) encoder. If that fails, see if you can find a reasonably-priced optical encoder. I'm no EE, but these might help.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, January 1, 2019, 7:11:00 AM EST, Peter Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:


Another little problem.
I'm finding that the rotary encoder is generating quite a bit of noise.
I can hear every 'tick' when I turn it.
Is this normal, or have I got a bad un?

I don't have any experience of rotary encoders, but this one seems a bit
'flimsy'.
I would have expected something a bit more substantial - or is this just
me being a bit picky?

Peter G8FWY

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.




Re: Bitx40

Evan Hand
 

The first picture is correct mounting: the USB connector and reset button are between the two boards.  There is history there that the original design had the Nano on the other side of the Raduino board.  That was changed to allow the display to be closely mounted to the Raduino.  Moving it to the other side would have either required a redesign of the Raduino board layout, or install the Nano pins on the "wrong" side of the device and plug it in that way.  No real need to get to the reset switch, and the USB port is still accessible.

BTW, how do you get email or search the web?  Are you doing it on a phone or tablet?

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: Need help getting replacement Detention Free Tuning Encoder with Push Button

Jack, W8TEE
 

Sorry 'bout that; I had no idea they would charge that much. If you want, I could order a bunch and you could sell the excess to friends who are in the same situation. I just sent a package to the Netherlands and, even though it only weighed about 4oz, it cost $14 to ship. I would guess that 10 encoders would weigh a little more, so figure $17 for shipping plus whatever the encoders cost. Let me know if you want me to do that.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, January 1, 2019, 5:23:05 AM EST, Snowist <uyelik@...> wrote:


Thanks Jack, it seems Mouser will add around 30 bucks for international shipping. Anyone knows any Ali or Banggood link for no-detent ones?

Thanks and happy new year 

Re: Bitx40

ae1ct1998 <AE1CT1998@...>
 

Which way is the nano board suppose to be mounted, with the nano switch up or down. The first pic is how mine is but all the pics I see it's the opasite. Which way is right


On Tue, Jan 1, 2019, 10:13 Evan Hand <elhandjr@... wrote:
So what happens if you unplug the controls connector and power on the rig with it off? Does it still go into calibrate mode?

Re: My list of mods and Chronology of Installation #ubitx

Daniel Conklin <danconklin2@...>
 

Jerry,
The inductors I used are these:  https://www.arrow.com/en/products/1276as-h-r68mp2/murata-manufacturing
Notice they are shielded 1210 inductors, as recommended. I have read every post on this board before making my choices, and Raj made the recommendations because he tried this fix on several boards with similar results.  He further stated that the Axicom relay fix of the band filters also helps knock down the spurs, which makes sense.
I made this post as a homenaje to those that have done the work to find and test solutions, and as a sort of collection of fixes that I have actually tried.  As I said, I'm happy with the results.  This may encourage someone else, who may be having trouble finding all of the information in the sea of posts, to complete their uBITX and get on the air with it.
73, Daniel  W2DLC

power and mic wiring

ross ingham
 

Greetins fellow bitx users. Back in the day,1968,  I was a member of the Narrogin radio club and hung out with a bunch of old geezers,one who had a straight six saloon with a back seat that took 10 young blokes. We would build crystal sets and  hang out on the 20 and 6 meatre band. So this is an old guy has retired and getting back into hf radio. I have ordered a microbitx kit and am going through the build in my head . So here are my questions: I intend to put chassis mounted fuses in the power curcuit, do I need to put a fuse on each of the two power feed wires or can I use the same fuse and does the diode stay across from power to ground? Next , I  intend to use four pin mic socket and mic, the blue is ground but if I get the other two wires back to front it be a problem? If someone coule send me a schematic that would make eternally grreatful.
At the moment I am trying to reserect a 1930s Honeywell reciever,some of the valves are not getting hot so I  suspect they are kangeroo edward. I  put up a dipole over Christmas that is ten metres a side, works a treat for my brothers portable on 7.130 but the reciever,nothing. But oh well my othe brother is the valve guy so all good. Cheers and a happy new year. Ross 

Re: Bitx40

Evan Hand
 

So what happens if you unplug the controls connector and power on the rig with it off? Does it still go into calibrate mode?

Re: Ideas for homebrew rig for digital modes on VHF/UHF

Lawrence Macionski <am_fm_radio@...>
 

FM is allowed in the US above 29.0 Mhz.

Re: nanos on sale at banggood for $2.39 USD #arduino #nano

Evan Hand
 

Some of the "birdies" on the uBitx have been suggested as coming from a slightly off Nano clock (either one).  I have not seen that verified.  The other aspect would be how it is used: for the uBittx/Raduino there is not a requirement for accurate time measurements, so as John, K5MO, implied, no real advantage.   

Evan
AC9TU

Re: Bitx40

ae1ct1998 <AE1CT1998@...>
 

Yes the nano board get hot, I've unplugged it from the display and the screen is blank, I then plug in the nano and the display says calibrate, I've told As that this but have got any reply as to wether he'll send me a new board. He said try downloading the software but I'm not a software guy and I don't own a computer so that's out.


On Tue, Jan 1, 2019, 10:01 Evan Hand <elhandjr@... wrote:
My suggestion is to divide and conquer: 

1 - isolate if the extra power draw is on the Raduino or on the Nano board.  Unplug the Nano from the Raduino and power from a USB connection.  Does the Nano get hot?  if so then you have a bad Nano or short on the board/pins, other wise go to next step
2 - unplug Raduino from the Bitx40 board and the control plug (8 pin with colored wires).  Plug in the Nano and again, power from the USB port on the Nano.  Do either of the boards get hot?  If so, then there is a short or failure on the Raduino board.
3 - next step would be to connect the Raduino to the control plug and verify if the problem reappears.  With this setup you should be able to test the controls, and see if your Raduino jumps right into configuration mode.
4 - next would be to probe the Raduino to Bitx40 connections to find out if there are any shorts to ground that should not be there.
5 - Last would be to provide 12vdc power to the Raduino and verify the 5vdc output of the regulator.  If possible, would be better to do this with the Raduino unplugged from the Bitx40.  I would also remove the Nano for this test.

Arduino Nanos are inexpensive (less than $8 on Amazon in single unit quantities, though the 3 packs are better deals and can be used to swap out "upgrade software" quickly.  Ebay has better pricing)

The above assumes that the Raduino on the Bitx40 that you have is the same as on the uBitx v4 that I have.  If not, then you will need to get help elsewhere, as I do not have that rig.

Please, if anyone else monitoring this thread sees anything wrong with the above, please let us know.

73
Evan
AC9TU