Date   
manhattan style pads

nd8i <bruceraymond@...>
 

I've been using ugly-style construction,
which has worked quite well. I've noticed
a bunch of constructors have used Manhattan-
style construction. Not being willing to
leave well enough alone, I want to give it
a try.

Where do people get the pads? Or how does
one make them from blank pcb material? I
suspect that trying to punch them out of
pcb material is a pretty slow and tedious
process, so I suspect there must be a better
alternative.

tia,
Bruce

Re: manhattan style pads

Mark Jones <Mark@...>
 

Bruce
 
I bought a "Copper island Construction Kit" but they ceased trading a while ago, I found someone (and I can't remember who or find the e-mails) that sent me some replacement (re-stock) pads via the GQRP reflector. I just paid the postage - a great deal and very helpful, he said that a friend of his was able to make them at work.
 
Sorry I can't help more - I thought about making some but it was just to tricky.
 
Mark. G0MGX

-----Original Message-----
From: nd8i [mailto:bruceraymond@...]
Sent: 26 June 2004 16:28
To: BITX20@...
Subject: [BITX20] manhattan style pads

I've been using ugly-style construction,
which has worked quite well.  I've noticed
a bunch of constructors have used Manhattan-
style construction.  Not being willing to
leave well enough alone, I want to give it
a try.

Where do people get the pads?  Or how does
one make them from blank pcb material?  I
suspect that trying to punch them out of
pcb material is a pretty slow and tedious
process, so I suspect there must be a better
alternative.

tia,
Bruce



Re: manhattan style pads

Hans Summers <Hans.Summers@...>
 

Mark, Bruce et al

I don't think the difference between "ugly" and "Manhatten" methods is all
that much.

My method is a bit of a hybrid I suppose. Mostly ugly. But if I find a point
needs to be better anchored I sometimes use a 10M resistor to ground (ok for
low impedance signal points) or a .22uF capacitor to ground (ok for dc
voltage points).

Sometimes I find I want pads. I mounted all the BITX20 inductors and
trifilar transformers on pads. But not nice circular pads like in the copper
island construction kit. I just find scraps of PCB stock and cut them up
into rough squares approximately 5mm x 5mm with a wire cutter. They're ugly
but it works and takes literally seconds.

73 Hans G0UPL
http://www.hanssummers.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Jones <Mark@...>
To: BITX20@... <BITX20@...>
Sent: Sat Jun 26 16:39:19 2004
Subject: RE: [BITX20] manhattan style pads

Bruce

I bought a "Copper island Construction Kit" but they ceased trading a while
ago, I found someone (and I can't remember who or find the e-mails) that
sent me some replacement (re-stock) pads via the GQRP reflector. I just paid
the postage - a great deal and very helpful, he said that a friend of his
was able to make them at work.

Sorry I can't help more - I thought about making some but it was just to
tricky.

Mark. G0MGX

-----Original Message-----
From: nd8i [mailto:bruceraymond@...]
Sent: 26 June 2004 16:28
To: BITX20@...
Subject: [BITX20] manhattan style pads


I've been using ugly-style construction,
which has worked quite well. I've noticed
a bunch of constructors have used Manhattan-
style construction. Not being willing to
leave well enough alone, I want to give it
a try.

Where do people get the pads? Or how does
one make them from blank pcb material? I
suspect that trying to punch them out of
pcb material is a pretty slow and tedious
process, so I suspect there must be a better
alternative.

tia,
Bruce





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Components

g4dfv2004 <duncan.walters@...>
 

Many thanks Hans - my set of components arrived today!
Payment was sent straight away by first class post.
Keep up the excellent work!

Duncan G4DFV

Re: manhattan style pads

Bruce Raymond <bruceraymond@...>
 

Mark & Hans,
 
Many thanks for your replies.  Small rectangular pads should work just
fine, and those I can come up with - I don't know why it didn't occur to
me.
 
Thanks for your help,
Bruce/nd8i
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Hans Summers [mailto:Hans.Summers@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 1:47 PM
To: 'BITX20@...'
Subject: Re: [BITX20] manhattan style pads


Mark, Bruce et al

I don't think the difference between "ugly" and "Manhatten" methods is all
that much.

My method is a bit of a hybrid I suppose. Mostly ugly. But if I find a point
needs to be better anchored I sometimes use a 10M resistor to ground (ok for
low impedance signal points) or a .22uF capacitor to ground (ok for dc
voltage points).

Sometimes I find I want pads. I mounted all the BITX20 inductors and
trifilar transformers on pads. But not nice circular pads like in the copper
island construction kit. I just find scraps of PCB stock and cut them up
into rough squares approximately 5mm x 5mm with a wire cutter. They're ugly
but it works and takes literally seconds.

73 Hans G0UPL
http://www.hanssummers.com

Re: manhattan style pads

Wes Hayward <w7zoi@...>
 

Hi All,
 
Actually, I think that the Manhattan in the QRP construction method really refers to the use of straight wires on a 90 degree grid.   At least that is where the term originated.     Typical integrated circuits use a layout that follows a Manhattan format.  A recent reference is John Baliga, "Chips Go Vertical," IEEE Spectrum, March, 2004, pp43-47.    
 
I agree with Hans -- I have really seen no difference between construction on a ground plane when using pads and building without them, other than building without is faster.      There is rarely a need to go as high as 10M with the resistors if you don't have them around.   Something much smaller values will work just as well.
 
My son and I picked the term "ugly" on our 1981 QST paper "The Ugly Weekender" for a specific reason:   We wanted to emphasize that there is no relationship between circuit performance and the "pretty" nature of the construction, including that on a printed board.   In this case, it is the use of extensive ground plane that makes the circuitry work well.
 
73, Wes
W7ZOI
 

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] manhattan style pads


Mark, Bruce et al

I don't think the difference between "ugly" and "Manhatten" methods is all
that much.

My method is a bit of a hybrid I suppose. Mostly ugly. But if I find a point
needs to be better anchored I sometimes use a 10M resistor to ground (ok for
low impedance signal points) or a .22uF capacitor to ground (ok for dc
voltage points).

Sometimes I find I want pads. I mounted all the BITX20 inductors and
trifilar transformers on pads. But not nice circular pads like in the copper
island construction kit. I just find scraps of PCB stock and cut them up
into rough squares approximately 5mm x 5mm with a wire cutter. They're ugly
but it works and takes literally seconds.

73 Hans G0UPL
http://www.hanssummers.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Jones
To: BITX20@...
Sent: Sat Jun 26 16:39:19 2004
Subject: RE: [BITX20] manhattan style pads

Bruce

I bought a "Copper island Construction Kit" but they ceased trading a while
ago, I found someone (and I can't remember who or find the e-mails) that
sent me some replacement (re-stock) pads via the GQRP reflector. I just paid
the postage - a great deal and very helpful, he said that a friend of his
was able to make them at work.

Sorry I can't help more - I thought about making some but it was just to
tricky.

Mark. G0MGX

-----Original Message-----
From: nd8i [mailto:bruceraymond@...]
Sent: 26 June 2004 16:28
To: BITX20@...
Subject: [BITX20] manhattan style pads


I've been using ugly-style construction,
which has worked quite well.  I've noticed
a bunch of constructors have used Manhattan-
style construction.  Not being willing to
leave well enough alone, I want to give it
a try.

Where do people get the pads?  Or how does
one make them from blank pcb material?  I
suspect that trying to punch them out of
pcb material is a pretty slow and tedious
process, so I suspect there must be a better
alternative.

tia,
Bruce





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ADVERTISEMENT
click here     
     


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*      To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BITX20/
 
*      To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BITX20-unsubscribe@...
 
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Please suggest for alternative 'linear amplifier module'

MILAREPA <MILAREPA@...>
 

Dear forum,
The IRF510 and 2N2218 is not available here in INDONESIA,
 
-Could you suggest an alternative for 'linear amplifier module' ?
 
-Can I just use:
HF BANDS QRP LINEAR AMPLIFIER - 4WATT or
TEN WATT LINEAR AMPLIFIER all by Harry Lythall - SM0VPO
Since 2SC.....( Japanese) transistors are available here.
 
 
-What  module ( coil, capacitor, x-tals) to change if need another band say 10MHz ?
 
Thank you.

Re: Audio amp schematic

Ashhar Farhan <farhan@...>
 

mark,
check the corrected schematic on http://www.phonestack.com/farhan.
the earlier circuit had a typo.
- farhan

On Sun, 27 Jun 2004, Mark wrote:

Anyone checked this - is +V on pin 5 correct?

Should it not be on pin 6?

Mark.





Yahoo! Groups Links




Audio amp schematic

Mark <Mark@...>
 

Anyone checked this - is +V on pin 5 correct?

Should it not be on pin 6?

Mark.

PCB

Bill Schofield <g0bak-m@...>
 

Hi all. I have posted a pic, I hope in the photos section. This is my
first attempt at using Press & Peel to create PCB's as I usually use
the island method etc for my projects. I was so impressed with the
results, to say this was my first attempt, I made the effort to tell
you all about it. See the site at
http://www.ronlin.co.uk/pressnpeel.html
I wish everyone good luck with the project. While I think on, Plumb
Centre in the UK have a 1/2" Delta Tap Washer Cat No C54018 in stock.
The price is £1.80 plus VAT for 10 washers. Not sure if they will
post but they have branches everywhere. All the best, de Bill G0BAK.

Re: Audio amp schematic

Charles Darley
 

Hi
 
according to my diagram  +V should be on pin 6 as mentioned ..
 
looks like pins 5 and 6 need to be changed for each other as output must be on 5 and volts in on 6
 
Charles G4VSZ

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark [mailto:Mark@...]
Sent: 27 June 2004 09:47
To: BITX20@...
Subject: [BITX20] Audio amp schematic

Anyone checked this - is +V on pin 5 correct?

Should it not be on pin 6?

Mark.


filter shielding?

Chris van den Berg
 

Hi all,
I had the intention to build this transceiver when a friend of me
brought this Yahoo group under my attention.
Too bad, now I spend all the time on reading all information instead
of building it ;-)
The nice thing I like is that the design is so basic, so
straightforward and everything (except the final stage) broadband
that it can be adjusted easily to everyones needs.

Because I have several x-tals with a frequency of 4.9152 MHz this
will be the IF frequency and because I want to make it for 18 Mhz, I
will try to cover the phone part with a VXO on about 13 MHz.

Looking at the pictures of other builders, I see several 'islands',
I do not build that way, I just solder every component to each other
(above the copper surface, only connected to it where needed).

What I also saw is that the x-tal filter has no kind of shielding.
Is it worth seperate the input/output of the filter with a kind of
shielding to prevent the signal passing it?

Good luck all,
Chris, PA3CRX

Re: PCB

Hans Summers <Hans.Summers@...>
 

While I think on, Plumb Centre in the UK have a 1/2"
Delta Tap Washer Cat No C54018 in stock. The price
is £1.80 plus VAT for 10 washers. Not sure if they
will post but they have branches everywhere. All
the best, de Bill G0BAK.
What is a "delta" tap washer? I'd be careful... When I bought my tap washers
there were "delta" washers and ordinary ones. But I don't recall what the
difference was. Anyone know?

I got my (non-"delta") washers at my local hardware store where they sell a
pacl of 3 for £0.45 including VAT. I'm happy to send some to whoever wants
them. Farhan is also talking of sending me 1000 from India, and the TV
baluns.

73 Hans G0UPL

(Again owing many people emails, pls QRX)

Re: filter shielding?

Jim Strohm <jstrohm@...>
 

On Jun 27, 2004, at 6:16 AM, vdberghak wrote:

Looking at the pictures of other builders, I see several 'islands',
I do not build that way, I just solder every component to each other
(above the copper surface, only connected to it where needed).
The only reason(s) I can think of _not_ to make 'em float in the air is that this technique has the potential to make the circuit sensitive to microphonics. And in a high-vibration or high-shock environment such as portable or mobile use, the solder joints would tend to fracture and eventually cause intermittent failures long before any visual breakage was apparent.

What I also saw is that the x-tal filter has no kind of shielding.
Is it worth seperate the input/output of the filter with a kind of
shielding to prevent the signal passing it?
Well, you could take the PCB scraps you saved by not using "island" construction, and use it to make shielding.

What's that old bromide -- "You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too many friends" -- add to that the idea that your electronics can never have too much shielding.

Jim N6OTQ

Re: Please suggest for alternative 'linear amplifier module'

Jim Strohm <jstrohm@...>
 

On Jun 26, 2004, at 11:03 PM, MILAREPA wrote:

Dear forum,
The IRF510 and 2N2218 is not available here in INDONESIA,
 
-Could you suggest an alternative for 'linear amplifier module' ?
 
-Can I just use:
HF BANDS QRP LINEAR AMPLIFIER - 4WATT or
TEN WATT LINEAR AMPLIFIER all by Harry Lythall - SM0VPO
Since 2SC.....( Japanese) transistors are available here.
Both those circuits will work fine, as will most any other QRP amp
circuit. A broadbanded circuit is easier to build and use because it
requires no tune-up and is less likely to have a parasitic oscillation.
Be aware that those two amps NEED a low-pass output filter. For 20M,
the BITX20 filter will be fine. For other frequencies, most popular
radio handbooks have equations and design examples for the frequency of
interest.

Readers are reminded that Harry SM0VPO likes to share his work, but
doesn't like seeing others pirate it or claim it as their own. So be
sure to provide attribution (as was done here) when you share his
stuff. He has the best homebrew radio site in the world, and we'd like
to encourage him to keep it online, by respecting his work and his
copyright.

Jim N6OTQ

IF amp pcb

vk3bfa <ablight@...>
 

Hello Fello wBuilders,
think I stuffed up a previous message post - anyway, have posted a
photo of my humble efforts at kitchen sink PCB making for the BITX20
IF Amp - its in the VK3BFA folder. Any comments on probable mistakes
welcome - will try and load it with components tomorrow if I can
ignore customer jobs already on the work bench hi hi. I build on the
track side of the PCB (semi ugly/manhattan) - so much easier to
troubleshoot.....
73 de VK3BFA Andrew

Re: IF amp pcb

John Fisher <k5jhf@...>
 

Very nice PCB, I'm certainly enjoying these photos :-) Thanks to all for your interesting posts :-) Being somewhat of a photographer, I always say "One can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much light" :-) But of course one can never have too many friends or too much shielding :-) Thanks for the bandwidth :-)

 Regards,
 John
 
=============================================
email:      k5jhf@...
photos:   http://photos.yahoo.com/k5jhf@...
files:       http://briefcase.yahoo.com/k5jhf@...
webpage: http://www.geocities.com/k5jhf@...
callsign:    K5JHF
=============================================

-----Original Message-----
From: vk3bfa [mailto:ablight@...]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 2004 7:45 AM
To: BITX20@...
Subject: [BITX20] IF amp pcb

Hello Fello wBuilders,
think I stuffed up a previous message post - anyway, have posted a
photo of my humble efforts at kitchen sink PCB making for the BITX20
IF Amp - its in the VK3BFA folder. Any comments on probable mistakes
welcome - will try and load it with components  tomorrow if I can
ignore customer jobs already on the work bench hi hi. I build on the
track side of the PCB (semi ugly/manhattan)  - so much easier to
troubleshoot.....
73 de VK3BFA Andrew


"delta" washers & Pads versus point-to-point wiring

Arvid Evans <arvevans@...>
 

Hi

After reding over today's posts...here are a couple of thoughts and
comments:

1) The manufacturer and model number for the faucet washer used in
BITX20 coils is probably much ado about a triviality. The requirement
for air-core (or nylon core, to be more correct) toroid coils in your
BITX20 is a reference to the shape and to the absence of ferrite
material in the magnetic field. I suspect that if you wanted you
could use 'slices' from the body of a plastic ball-point pen. I used
1/4 inch wide slices from a piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe (a bit larger
than the faucet washers, but also required a few less turns). No, I
don't know what effect the different dielectric constant of the PVC
had on the result.

2) Many years ago I obtained some PCB material that is quite thin
and flexible. My method for making the "pads" is to punch them out of
this material with a conventional paper punch (the pliers shaped type
you can buy for a couple of USD in many local stores). I sometimes
punch out a handfull when I have a few free minutes (it makes a great
distraction during those boring commercials on US Television), or if
none are immediately available I will punch out just what I need as I
build a circuit.
At times I have made pads from thicker PCB material by just punching
them out from PCB scrap(and from used boards when parts have all been
removed) by using the larger lever-operated paper punch on my desk.
Also, in the US Harbor Freight sells a compound-action pliers type
punch (about $10 USD) complete with different sized dies, see
<www.harborfreight.com> and search for "punch".
FYI: My "pads" using the thin PCB material measure 1.4 PF between the
circuit connection and underlying PCB substrata. I'm using "Super
Glue" to stick them down.

3) Yes, when I am in a hurry, like assembling my first BITX20, I
resort to point-to-point self-supported wiring...the UGLY method. It
is quick and effective, but nearly impossible to repair if the
defective part is two or three layers deep in the rats-nest of
connections.

4) My initial BITX20 effort did not use the LM-386 AF amp. Instead
I just used a 741 Op-Amp and relied on headphones-only for the audio
output. I guess I neatly sidstepped the schematic error regarding the
wrong pin being indicated for the + voltage! ;-) Since then I have
added an NPN (2N3904) driving an NPN-PNP (2N3904 & 2N3906) pair for
1/2 watt of audio to the speaker.

Maybe I am different but I see Farhan's elegant design as very
interesting because it allows the builder to match up his particular
incantation of the rig with the contents of his junk box.

My BITX40 is coming along quite well. Several modules have been
assembled and tested with just the IF filter, VFO, and the linear amp
left to finish. I am waiting for an order to be delivered from "Dan's
Small Parts" before I can continue. My junk box became severly
depleted of the more commonly used parts!

73's
Arv
_._

Tap Washers

Bill Schofield <g0bak-m@...>
 

Hi All, Just to clarify, the Delta Washers I mentioned in the earlier
post are shaped more like a standard Torroid a little bigger than a T
50 and not as big as a T68 so I guess around a T55????? A standard
1/2 inch or basin tap washer in the uk is much bigger and the hole in
the centre is quite small. I did purchase some of these also to
compare, Catalogue no C54012 £1.29 + VAT for 10 same Supplier. I use
a PIC LCD Capacitance and Inductance meter that I made last year to
give me the values of the coils, as yet I have not made them for the
BITX. As mentioned in another posting, the core for the winding can
be made out of various things, ball point pen plastic etc. When I
wind the coils I will give some uH values from my meter. All the best
and happy constructing, de Bill G0BAK.

Rig photos

Hans Summers <Hans.Summers@...>
 

Hi

I uploaded my BITX20 pictures into the photographs section
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/BITX20/lst

I also re-organised in there a little, so that the photos which were at the
top level are now sorted into directories by callsign.

Some notes on my version:

You will see the first picture has the BITX20 in the foreground and my
80/40m homebrew receiver
http://www.hanssummers.com/radio/polyphase/index.htm in the background. The
frequency counter of the receiver (also homebrew, see
http://www.hanssummers.com/radio/sfreq/index.htm ) is hooked up to the
BITX20 VFO on 4.278.16MHz. You can see the same frequency reading on the
BITX20 readout, i.e. 14.2 from the dial + binary 64 + 8 + 4 + 2 + 0.5 =
14.278.5.

The other picture shows 14.175MHz. I fitted an on/off switch, tx/rx switch
and frequency counter on/off switch (in case the counter generates an
objectionable birdie or other noise). A greed LED indicates power is on, the
red LED indicates TX.

I included a photo of my simple 2-chip 8 LED binary readout frequency
counter that I installed in the BITX20 front panel. The details of this
counter can be found at http://www.hanssummers.com/radio/sfreq/index.htm .
It costs approx £2.00 in parts.

I constructed my BITX20 as a series of 15 modules. The VFO is built directly
on the main chassis behind the tuning controls. The remaining modules are
each built "ugly" on a 2 x 1 inch piece of PCB stock, mounted at right
angles to the chassis. This method will allow me to experiment easily with
variations on the different modules. If necessary I could easily move all
the modules around because they are just soldered to the base board at
either end of their 2-inch length. This method also provides for some
"automatic" screening between each stage. All the modules except the product
detector/exciter are shown in the "modules" photo subfolder. Sorry for the
low resolution images of the modules. Some of the main pictures were taken
on a friend's camera. if you have an old unwanted digital camera which is
less old than my 640 x 480 resolution dinosaur, you know where to send it
;-)

The rig is now awaiting testing and debugging but due to family commitments
there may be some significant delay.

72/3 de Hans G0UPL