Date   
Re: Receive noise in just built version 5

howard winwood G4GPF
 

Do the BFO tune, you will find the difference amazing.

Re: Receive noise in just built version 5

MadRadioModder
 

Calibrate!


MRM

 


On Nov 28, 2019, at 9:05 AM, Morris Ford <morrishford@...> wrote:

I have a high intensity noise on receive. It almost completely covers any signals, I can hear what I think is sideband under the noise. It is a buzzing kind of sound at medium to high frequency.
Volume control works, tuning works, menu access works, have not tried transmit yet.
Noise is present with antenna connected, goes away with no antenna. Same antenna, different radio, no problem.
Ubitx and different antenna still have same noise.
Different power supply, same noise.
Have not done any calibration.

Where do I start?
Any assistance gratefully accepted.

Thanks.
Morris
K7LSV


--

…_. _._

Receive noise in just built version 5

Morris Ford <morrishford@...>
 

I have a high intensity noise on receive. It almost completely covers any signals, I can hear what I think is sideband under the noise. It is a buzzing kind of sound at medium to high frequency.
Volume control works, tuning works, menu access works, have not tried transmit yet.
Noise is present with antenna connected, goes away with no antenna. Same antenna, different radio, no problem.
Ubitx and different antenna still have same noise.
Different power supply, same noise.
Have not done any calibration.

Where do I start?
Any assistance gratefully accepted.

Thanks.
Morris
K7LSV

Re: #ubitx-help µBitx wiring - one stupid question #ubitx-help

Przemek
 

 Very usefull! Equipment pre-assembled and tested (for now only RX). Now it's time for housing. 
Thanks!

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help How to recognize the PCB/hardware version #ubitx #ubitx-help

Przemek
 

Thank all for answers! I found PCB version  right above the P2.
73!

Re: Antuino Can it measure the RF Output Watts

 

At 28/11/2019, you wrote:
I would use an RF tap, such as the one here: http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/Tap50dbRevA.pdf
As Raj has said, a power-sinking attenuator could also be used. There are many dummy-loads with monitor outputs available, many from commercial installs such as repeaters or cell stations. I have one that will sink 250W continuous all day long and has a 40dB monitor port.
You could also use a directional coupler, as was suggested, but getting one with a flat, calibrated coupling would be costly. I have a few different ones, both home-brew and commercial (but hobby-grade) and the coupling can vary by a few dB even just in the span of the HF bands.
HTH
Gerry

Re: Antuino Can it measure the RF Output Watts

Gerry Kavanagh
 

I would use an RF tap, such as the one here: http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/Tap50dbRevA.pdf
As Raj has said, a power-sinking attenuator could also be used. There are many dummy-loads with monitor outputs available, many from commercial installs such as repeaters or cell stations. I have one that will sink 250W continuous all day long and has a 40dB monitor port.
You could also use a directional coupler, as was suggested, but getting one with a flat, calibrated coupling would be costly. I have a few different ones, both home-brew and commercial (but hobby-grade) and the coupling can vary by a few dB even just in the span of the HF bands.
HTH
Gerry

Re: Newbie Support Pages?

Stephen Wandling
 

Thanks Curt. I sense this is good advice. 

Stephen 
VE7NSD

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 5:16 PM Curt via Groups.Io, <wb8yyy=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Stephen

the information overload can be vast.  if you want to enjoy your stock build - just use the supplied instructions and web content at HF signals. 

there is one pertinent detail to think about - what type of display to you plan to end up with?  I am thrilled with the stock LCD (okay boring but it does the function for many of us around the globe, with low electricity) - but if you plan to upgrade that will influence your case (many options here - mine is in a amateurradiokits case from India.  BTW he has nice building info at ubitx.com last I knew). 

please note the v5 being sold now is said to require no mods.  many additions are rather simple - just AGC and a S-meter-like movement, my CW filter is still external until I build another one to integrate. 

enjoy your build and operation of the rig - yes turn off the info overload until you are ready.

73 Curt

Re: InKits Nextion case power wiring

Justin Phillips K5AXL
 

I think their power schematic is more a suggestion or how Sunil did it. If you have no need of a battery connection you can leave that out. The power schematic they provided does depict dc barrel power going to the 3 way rocker switch first, then to the fuse. I'm no EE, so I don't know if there any technical advantage to putting the main switch before or after the fuse, but I wired mine the way their schematic/pics show it, just left the batter connection off. I was thinking of putting the case fan on the second position, so I can power on with or without the fan running.

They have a download available with lots of pictures and a couple schematics to help explain their intended wiring.

https://amateurradiokits.in/downloads/

Scroll all the way down for the Nextion case files.

Re: Anyone used the ELEKITSORPARTS digital interface board? Opionons? #ubitx #digital

Cory King
 

I went into the wiring harness so nothing is permanently soldered into the main board.  Both for TX and RX.  Not sure if this is the cause of the audio bleed through.  I might write the vendor and see what they think...

as for the CAT control, this board just passes it through to the Raduino over the USB cable.  It doesn’t do any CAT control itself.  You’ll need to use firmware that can do CAT (CEC firmware is what I’m using).  The Raduino emulates something like an FT-517 or something like that...

Re: Anyone used the ELEKITSORPARTS digital interface board? Opionons? #ubitx #digital

Justin Phillips K5AXL
 

Thanks for the update Cory. Mine shows to be in Illinois now, so maybe a couple days away. Did you install the TX to the PCB or to the mic lines?

As for the Arduino reset issue, I have mine currently connected to the pc directly with no issues, other than the radiuno stays constantly powered, which is funny - I get some faint receive audio without the main power switched on. I have the Inkits 5" Nextion case, and I plan to install this digital interface underneath the ubitx board, and put the rx/tx knobs to the sides of the ptt/phones/key jacks. I'll probably keep the Inkits ports pcb on the back, and jump the usb from that to the digital board. 

Re: Cec v1.2 software question

barry halterman
 

Evan, thank you for the information and you got me looking in the correct area, the 45 MHz filter response. Both calibration and BFO were properly adjusted, so I ruled that out. Apparently,
When the ATT was on the LO was shifted to have the signals more in the passband. What I did was remove the two 680uh inductors and installed two 330uh. That adjusted the filter response to compensate for the LO. The 45mhz filter must be slightly off.
All is good, no loss in transmit power, etc.
Barry

On Wed, Nov 27, 2019, 7:38 AM Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:
Barry,

It is my understanding that the ATT function of the CEC software is using the "skirt" of the first 45 MHz filter to "Attenuate" the signal.  This works by adjusting the second VFO or Clock 1 to move the received section of the band to be just off of the center of the crystal.  If the signal is getting stronger or clearer, then the BFO might be slightly out of adjustment 

The way the uBITX works is the dial or received frequency is added to the first VFO (Clock2 of the Raduino) to get the 45 MHz first IF.  This is passed through the 45 MHz single crystal filter.  Because it is a single crystal, the bandwidth (15 Mhz) is wider than the second 12 crystal SSB filter (2500 Hz).  Also, the slope of the sides of the 45 MHz filter are relatively shallow.  To attenuate the received signal, the second VFO is adjusted up or down to move the portions of the spectrum that are then passed through the second IF and the second 12 crystal filter that has a much steeper slope and bandwidth.  If the alignment of the second VFO and BFO are not correct, then instead of attenuating the signal on the skirt, the recieved part is moving towards the center of the 45 MHz filter.

The one thing to be careful of when adjusting the BFO is to not get to the point where the carrier is not suppressed.  I have had this happen to me when I was trying for the "best" reception and sound on receive.  I then started using an audio spectrum analyzer to adjust the BFO.  This seemed to work the best for me.  Adjusting the BFO when tuned to a clear frequency allows you to use the white noise to adjust the signal "plateau" to start around 500 Hz and drop off at 3000 Hz.

The software can be gotten on the internet for free.  I would try it to see if the received part either too high or too low.

The full description of the uBitx operation is on the HFsignals web page.  There are a couple of errors on the block diagram in the clock1 frequency for upper and lower sideband (they are reversed) and that the v5 board SSB crystal frequency is 11.0592 MHz and not the original v3 and v4 12 MHz.
http://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-circuit-description/

Just my thoughts, please be sure to check your rig for proper operation and out of band signals after making adjustments.
73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: Anyone used the ELEKITSORPARTS digital interface board? Opionons? #ubitx #digital

Gordon Gibby
 

This is SO COOL!!!   Looks like the sound card is built right in, and they handle the CAT commands also!   What a great development!!!   Delighted to see all of these innovations. 

It *should* do winmor/ardop for winlink also...can someone confirm that???
Gordon Gibby


On Wed, Nov 27, 2019 at 12:40 PM Cory King <cory@...> wrote:

So I got mine and installed it.  Was pretty easy to install, they have a drill template that made it easy to get the holes in the right place. Only complaint was the tiny little black coax wires for the audio were a pain in the arse to strip and solder in.  Should have just used my own wiring.  Windows picked up the drivers with no work on my part.


One thing I’ve noticed is when it transmits the TX audio bleeds through into my speaker.  And we aren’t talking just a faint bleed through but a very loud bleed through that is loudest when the volume is turned down.  If the TX level knob on the board is turned up, the bleed through audio is very clipped and distorted.  If turned down it goes away.

The video has a wiring diagram that says to hook the TX up to the MIC wire and ground—same two wires that go to the mic jack.  However in the video they also show it soldered right into the PCB instead of spliced into the actual wiring harness.  Not sure if that could be responsible for the bleed through or something else is going on.

one other thing, and this isn’t the fault of the kit, but Raduino resets itself upon power up  if the USB is plugged in unless you fix it.  If you don’t, your CAT control won’t work right.  http://www.hamskey.com/2018/01/ubitx-auto-reset-problem-and-solution.html?m=1

Re: Anyone used the ELEKITSORPARTS digital interface board? Opionons? #ubitx #digital

Cory King
 

So I got mine and installed it.  Was pretty easy to install, they have a drill template that made it easy to get the holes in the right place. Only complaint was the tiny little black coax wires for the audio were a pain in the arse to strip and solder in.  Should have just used my own wiring.  Windows picked up the drivers with no work on my part.


One thing I’ve noticed is when it transmits the TX audio bleeds through into my speaker.  And we aren’t talking just a faint bleed through but a very loud bleed through that is loudest when the volume is turned down.  If the TX level knob on the board is turned up, the bleed through audio is very clipped and distorted.  If turned down it goes away.

The video has a wiring diagram that says to hook the TX up to the MIC wire and ground—same two wires that go to the mic jack.  However in the video they also show it soldered right into the PCB instead of spliced into the actual wiring harness.  Not sure if that could be responsible for the bleed through or something else is going on.

one other thing, and this isn’t the fault of the kit, but Raduino resets itself upon power up  if the USB is plugged in unless you fix it.  If you don’t, your CAT control won’t work right.  http://www.hamskey.com/2018/01/ubitx-auto-reset-problem-and-solution.html?m=1

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help How to recognize the PCB/hardware version #ubitx #ubitx-help

Don--AE4DW
 

As mentioned, it is printed on the PC Board, on mine, a v5, its right above the P2 connector. Its not in white screened print, so its not instantly noticeable.

Also, assuming you bought it direct from hfsignals, and its been recent, as in the last few months, almost a sure thing its a v5.

InKits Nextion case power wiring

Ken Simmons
 

I'm using the 3.5" Nextion case from InKits (amateurradiokits.in) and have a couple of questions/concerns on the power wiring. The only schematic I've found doesn't show all the pieces that are included like the fuse and the extra switch. I've tried to create a schematic from the pictures available. The problem there is that I'm coming up with a strange configuration. Specifically, the fuse appears to be after both switches. I also don't see a diode, either in series or as a crowbar. The wiring of the power connector is difficult to see in all the pictures so the diode could be there, but that would put it before the fuse.

I've also seen pictures of a small circuit board that contains the crowbar diode. I didn't receive a board like that, but I believe those pictures were from earlier versions of the case.

I know there are many posts about power protection, but I couldn't seem to find any for this particular case and wiring setup. It can include a battery and a switch configuration for charging the battery, but you can't simply connect power to a LiOn or LiPo battery for charging without risking safety.

Any suggestions or clarification would be appreciated.

Re: Help to point me into right direction

Tommaso Ravaglioli
 

Hi Bruce,
just a note: cross band, or more precisely full duplex operation is
not required to work ISS.
It is just a direct QSO between two hams, one of which is somewhat a
newbie, somewhat stuck to a single frequency.
Any handheld with the old -600 kHz shift will do, and you could very
well compensate for a suboptimal antenna with higher power, something
that when working satellites a definite no-no.
Regarding power, again ISS is not a satellite, but just a Kenwood
TM-710E (or an Ericsson handheld, as there are two stations in ISS) in
a weird place. When we work ARISS contacts, we run farly high power,
around 50W with a cross element yagi, and the standby station is
required to push 200W on an omni antenna. Go figure...
As I stated before, the most difficult part is to have an astronaut on
the other side. They have plenty of work to do, and while ham radio
was an important outreach tool, it got somewhat superseded by Twitter
and all social media brought by broadband internet on ISS.

73 de Tommaso
IZ2QYZ

Il giorno mer 27 nov 2019 alle ore 14:04 Black Wolfe
<blackwolfe@...> ha scritto:

the Baofeng offers cross-band operation, needed for operating ISS and
many (most/all?) satellites. Not all 2M/70cm units are capable of
this. Most of satellite operation is about high-gain directional
antennas and aiming them. Transmit power is of little importance.

Bruce W. ~KV4OE~


On 11/27/19 5:03 AM, Tommaso Ravaglioli wrote:
Hi Robert,
for ISS the Baofeng is a good start, and it is great even starting to
receive SSTV images. If you want to just receive, an handheld scanner
or an SDR stick will give you the taste of space ops.
But ISS is not a satellite, is more similar to a QSO with a fellow
ham. Pretty much any handheld will do, with a cell phone or a computer
to decode SSTV and get the hang of things like orbital mechanics.
The choke point is astronauts availability, which is quite scarce
commodity, nowadays. So the biggest chance is to connect with
automatic systems, mostly the APRS digipeater or the SSTV downlink.

Cheers,
Tommaso

Il giorno mer 27 nov 2019 alle ore 08:29 <forest.roby@...> ha scritto:
Dear All,

This dual band bussiness was new to me... farher google seaches convinced me that "cough*Baofeng*cough" is a good start. Might be a good project to build an amplifier for it, if possible.
Thanks for the help.

Sorry for the off topic!

Robert

Re: Help to point me into right direction

Black Wolfe
 

the Baofeng offers cross-band operation, needed for operating ISS and many (most/all?) satellites.  Not all 2M/70cm units are capable of this.  Most of satellite operation is about high-gain directional antennas and aiming them.  Transmit power is of little importance.

Bruce W.  ~KV4OE~

On 11/27/19 5:03 AM, Tommaso Ravaglioli wrote:
Hi Robert,
for ISS the Baofeng is a good start, and it is great even starting to
receive SSTV images. If you want to just receive, an handheld scanner
or an SDR stick will give you the taste of space ops.
But ISS is not a satellite, is more similar to a QSO with a fellow
ham. Pretty much any handheld will do, with a cell phone or a computer
to decode SSTV and get the hang of things like orbital mechanics.
The choke point is astronauts availability, which is quite scarce
commodity, nowadays. So the biggest chance is to connect with
automatic systems, mostly the APRS digipeater or the SSTV downlink.

Cheers,
Tommaso

Il giorno mer 27 nov 2019 alle ore 08:29 <forest.roby@...> ha scritto:
Dear All,

This dual band bussiness was new to me... farher google seaches convinced me that "cough*Baofeng*cough" is a good start. Might be a good project to build an amplifier for it, if possible.
Thanks for the help.

Sorry for the off topic!

Robert

Re: Cec v1.2 software question

Evan Hand
 

Barry,

It is my understanding that the ATT function of the CEC software is using the "skirt" of the first 45 MHz filter to "Attenuate" the signal.  This works by adjusting the second VFO or Clock 1 to move the received section of the band to be just off of the center of the crystal.  If the signal is getting stronger or clearer, then the BFO might be slightly out of adjustment 

The way the uBITX works is the dial or received frequency is added to the first VFO (Clock2 of the Raduino) to get the 45 MHz first IF.  This is passed through the 45 MHz single crystal filter.  Because it is a single crystal, the bandwidth (15 Mhz) is wider than the second 12 crystal SSB filter (2500 Hz).  Also, the slope of the sides of the 45 MHz filter are relatively shallow.  To attenuate the received signal, the second VFO is adjusted up or down to move the portions of the spectrum that are then passed through the second IF and the second 12 crystal filter that has a much steeper slope and bandwidth.  If the alignment of the second VFO and BFO are not correct, then instead of attenuating the signal on the skirt, the recieved part is moving towards the center of the 45 MHz filter.

The one thing to be careful of when adjusting the BFO is to not get to the point where the carrier is not suppressed.  I have had this happen to me when I was trying for the "best" reception and sound on receive.  I then started using an audio spectrum analyzer to adjust the BFO.  This seemed to work the best for me.  Adjusting the BFO when tuned to a clear frequency allows you to use the white noise to adjust the signal "plateau" to start around 500 Hz and drop off at 3000 Hz.

The software can be gotten on the internet for free.  I would try it to see if the received part either too high or too low.

The full description of the uBitx operation is on the HFsignals web page.  There are a couple of errors on the block diagram in the clock1 frequency for upper and lower sideband (they are reversed) and that the v5 board SSB crystal frequency is 11.0592 MHz and not the original v3 and v4 12 MHz.
http://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-circuit-description/

Just my thoughts, please be sure to check your rig for proper operation and out of band signals after making adjustments.
73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help How to recognize the PCB/hardware version #ubitx #ubitx-help

 

The version is printed on the PCB top side. Next to antenna connector OR
if you hold the board with power transistors to the back then look at the
right corner for the version.

At 27/11/2019, you wrote:
Question as in topic. I recently bought uBitx and I would like to specify which version I have, unfortunately there are no markings on the PCB
I haven't connected the radio yet.