Date   
Re: Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method

Don--AE4DW
 

I loved those days..and while the hobby is now a brave new world for me after being away for 30 years, and I'm having lots of fun...the "olden days" were a blast too.

Circa mid 70s...Heath HW-16 as a novice (WITH the external VFO..), then an upgrade to an HW-101 when I got my general...

Re: PiZeroW Controlling a uBitx

 

Sorry I missed it.

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

Well guys, this is going to give you a good chance to begin to understand more and more about Radio!   

If you don’t hear the tone until you are tuned 2kHz off, then yes your radio is a fair bit out of calibration!!

First of all, make a direct electrical connection between your radio and your PC, use a capacitor, like 0.1 µF - 10 Micro farad to make the audio connection and you’ll have a much better signal to watch.  If that’s impossible for you, just keep using the microphone

Adjust settings of your FLDGI to provide its X axis in audio frequencies, not radio frequencies

Bingo!  Now you have an audio spectrum analyzer!!


Deep inside the uBitx code is a number that says what it thinks the crystals freq is.   It happens to be wrong.   If you know how to adjust the code you can fix it there;  if not you’ll need to use one of the calibration routine’s.   Expect  to have to do a good bit of thinking and experimentation to figure this out!  But you’ll be a better ham radio operator for having done the effort

Better than giving you some set of complicated instructions, is asking you to use your noggin to figure this out




On Aug 9, 2019, at 18:03, Dean Souleles <dsouleles@...> wrote:

Hi Don -

That is a helpful explanation.   I can definitely do the incremental trial and error method - just requires patience - but I also want to understand what I am doing.  I read Dan W3BU's post  - but I still don't quite understand that. He says something about using the "usual instructions to set the display"  Huh?  I think I get the idea about matching the frequencies between a sender and a receiver.  But beyond that - bang - head explodes.  

Dean

Re: Voltage for finals

MVS Sarma
 

Thanls for the photo. Perhaps you might observe increased noise, presumably created by switching regulator.
Let us imagine a linear regulator with lower noise level. At the cost of some power wastage, being linear.
Regards
Sarma vu3zmv

On Thu, 8 Aug 2019, 8:18 pm Don - KM4UDX, <dontAy155@...> wrote:
Here is a pic of the dc-dc which makes 12v for the board (and a few other accessories).  The "native" power from the old laptop brick goes straight  through a fuse and to the finals. Note the LC filter after the dc converter.  I'm not sure it makes any difference, but it looks cool.  

Re: PiZeroW Controlling a uBitx

Ashhar Farhan
 

I demonstrated exactly this at the fdim club night


On Sat 10 Aug, 2019, 9:31 AM Darrel H, <hdarek@...> wrote:
I also have been very curios about using a Pi in place of the Raduino.
I have a Pi v3 begging me to do something with it!

Re: PiZeroW Controlling a uBitx

 

I also have been very curios about using a Pi in place of the Raduino.
I have a Pi v3 begging me to do something with it!

Re: VK4PP uBitx add-on Boards. (VK4PLN)

 

I also would be interested in a set of boards!

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Dean Souleles
 

Hi Don -

That is a helpful explanation.   I can definitely do the incremental trial and error method - just requires patience - but I also want to understand what I am doing.  I read Dan W3BU's post  - but I still don't quite understand that. He says something about using the "usual instructions to set the display"  Huh?  I think I get the idea about matching the frequencies between a sender and a receiver.  But beyond that - bang - head explodes.  

Dean

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Dean Souleles
 

Hi Gordon,

Thanks for the note.  Apologies for being dense. I did tune to 10.000 - no tone.  The tone is on 10.002.100 on my radio.  So first step - what do I change to get the frequency to display accurately?  Second,  after tuning to 10.002.100 I did use FLDIGI to look at the waterfall but I don't see anything that indicates the tone is 500 or 600 Hz.  I was using the speaker on the ubitx and the mic from my laptop - just audio to audio.  Do I need to direct connect the ubitx to the PC?  Perhaps I don't know how to setup the waterfall display in FLDIGI - but what I see looks nothing like what I have seen on web videos.  I set mode CW on FLDIGI and dialed  in 10.002.100 on the ubitx - nice clear tone.  Nothing on the waterfall display in FLDIGI looks like a 500 or 600 hz signal to me.  Perhaps I also don't understand how to setup FLDIGI.


I also don't understand what you mean by the following: 
"Then calculate the correction, apply it to the source code, recompile. If you are using some product ccode, apply corrections until you get the tones to be perfect."   

Dean
KK4DAS


 

Re: Voltage for finals

Arvo W0VRA
 

On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 12:26 PM, Don - KM4UDX wrote:
You get a great jump (okay a small jump) in output, and you can feel great about what you did to your hotrod. 
How did you adjust the gain on the amp to use the extra voltage?

Re: Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method

Vince Vielhaber
 

I still do. My daily HF rig is also my first HF rig: Golddust Twins.
Collins KWS-1 and 74A-4, bought back in the mid 70s. Switch to CAL, zero beat, switch back to SSB.

Vince - K8ZW.

On 08/09/2019 10:44 AM, MadRadioModder wrote:
Anyone licensed and operating before 1980 had to zero-beat their
transmitter to their receiver. It was the only way to make sure you
were transmitting on the same frequency…regardless of manufacturer.
Digital stuff just wasn’t available for the masses yet.





*From:*BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] *On Behalf Of
*kg9hfrank@...
*Sent:* Friday, August 9, 2019 5:48 AM
*To:* BITX20@groups.io
*Subject:* [BITX20] Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method



Back in the day we zeroed the transmitter to the receive using tweets.
It was very simplistic but worked. I am trying to set the radio to say
7.200.000 LSB and the standard (Elecraft K3) to 7.200.000 and tune
Calibration and BFO accordantly. Anyone try this before? Any step by
step instructions available? de Frank KG9H kg9h@...
<mailto:kg9h@...>


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--

…_. _._

Kit-projects site update

 

Some kit prices have been adjusted and restocked today enjoy!

Keyer is now 10$

Zero beat is now 10$

Touch keyer is now 25$

73

https://shop.kit-projects.com/index.php?route=common/home
--
David

 N8DAH
Kit-Projects.com

Shop is open!

Re: Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method

 

Yes I remember that with my Heathkit rig!  Oops did I just give away my old age?


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of MadRadioModder <madradiomodder@...>
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 2:44 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method
 

Anyone licensed and operating before 1980 had to zero-beat their transmitter to their receiver.  It was the only way to make sure you were transmitting on the same frequency…regardless of manufacturer.  Digital stuff just wasn’t available for the masses yet.

 

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of kg9hfrank@...
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 5:48 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] Zero beating / calibration using old Drake method

 

Back in the day we zeroed the transmitter to the receive using tweets.  It was very simplistic but worked.  I am trying to set the radio to say 7.200.000 LSB and the standard (Elecraft K3) to 7.200.000 and tune Calibration and BFO accordantly.  Anyone try this before?  Any step by step instructions available? de Frank KG9H  kg9h@...


Virus-free. www.avg.com

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…_. _._

Re: Full QSK for a uBITX

Vince Vielhaber
 

And that they are. I happened to remember I wanted to see if there was any errata on that manual, and when I searched, I found this instead:

https://www.qsl.net/w/wb4kdi/TenTec/Argosy_525_Manual_OCR.pdf

Page 59 shows the diodes the way they should be, and the actual picture of the board you can see D1's cathode going to ground.

Vince - K8ZW,

On 08/08/2019 12:16 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:
Thanks for finding that, seems right.
I think D3 and D4 are drawn backwards.


On Wed, Aug 7, 2019 at 08:20 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:

According to the voltage chart on the next page, that junction is
going to have a large negative voltage on it. That would stop the
transmit from going to the receiver.

Vince.
Hide quoted text <#quoted-71090005>



On 08/07/2019 07:35 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:

Here's a manual for the Argosy, T/R switching (and SWR metering)
is on
page 51:

http://www.tentec.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Argosy_II_Model_525_Manualf933.pdf
;;; D1,D2 look to me like they would be forward biased during
transmit,
which would not work at all.






Re: calibrating ubitx to www

Don - KM4UDX
 

This is soooo embarrassing. I did exactly precisely as Dave describes. I attempted to tweak calibration/BFO, screwed it up, made the radio useless, and blamed the radio.

After meeting myself on the battlefield of self inflicted stupidity, I've learned to assume the worst about the operator.  I'm rarely disappointed. 

I got back to "operational", but not without a lot of trial and error, with emphasis on the error. Thank goodness for memory managers (MM).  Using MM the cycle time to tweak/observe/evaluate/repeat was reduced to seconds. Even I could fix my own screwups with enough trial cycles done quickly.

My uBITX is now fully functional and wonderful. But not really due to me. hahaha.

Don
km4udx

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

​I just tune it.   With my hand.    


had to do the exact same thing for an ICOM 725 recently.   It is more complicated because there are TWO different frequency sources in the unit, so you have to first figure out which one is off.... in my case, the master oscillator (66 MHz) was correct, and the BFO oscillator was off.   


For the BITX, since ALL ferquencies come from ONE crystall.... far far easier.   


Gordon



From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Don - KM4UDX <dontAy155@...>
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 1:30 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb
 
Gordon, when you do this, do you have the uBITX under cat control so the uBTIX freq is controlled by and shown on the fldigi (for example) waterfall?

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Don - KM4UDX
 

Gordon, when you do this, do you have the uBITX under cat control so the uBTIX freq is controlled by and shown on the fldigi (for example) waterfall?

Re: Voltage for finals

Don - KM4UDX
 

I vote for DaveK_K0MBT's approach. You get a good 12v for the board, and 18v for the separate "final's wire" on the board's power plug.  Dave used a lm317,and  i used a cheap DC-DC buck converter. Both get the same goal accomplished. Reuse a old brick style laptop (or whatever) power supply, down-convert to get 12v for the board and whatever is native to the finals.  You get a great jump (okay a small jump) in output, and you can feel great about what you did to your hotrod. 

Use a fuse on the power supply line. The finals will work fine without a fuse, but if you are like many of us (well me anyway), you may (will) screw something up and the fuse will save your bacon. hahah.

Don
km4udx

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

​All I do is tune to 10.00000000000 and then see what their TONES are.   should be 500 Hz or 600 Hz.

ANY waterfall will measure those very very very accurately.     FLDIGI, anythng.


Then calculalte the correction, apply it to the source code, recompile.

If you are using some product ccode, apply corrections until you get the tones to be perfect.

Should work.


Gordon



From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Don - KM4UDX <dontAy155@...>
Sent: Friday, August 9, 2019 1:18 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb
 
Yes, I'm sorry the calibration and BFO process is such a muddle. Others here can help more, I'm sure.

In summary, all the various procedures and descriptions boil down to going into setup mode, adjusting the calibration #, saving it, then observing the current displayed freq vs the freq that you know you are listening to.  Repeat until the display freq matches the actual TX freq. Simple right? And adjusting the BFO process is also simple...tune to a known freq, and adjust the BFO in the setup menu until it sounds good, save the new setting. Repeat till you are happy. What? Excuse me? Hun? hhahaha. 

All that sounds easy, but it isn't, at least for me. How do I know what frequency WWV or CUV is? I mean they both take up a bit of bandwidth. Where exactly in the signal spread do I tune to? And depending on what the reference is sending, the signal spread can change like mad....e.g., a tone vs a voice. And what about the sidebands on voice? ahhhhh....help me.....Yeeks, what a mess. 

I ended up finding a sort of random signal on my SDR that looked like it was really narrow, on a simple frequency with a bunch of zeros, and it didn't change.  I figured it was really on that freq and used it as a reference. God help me if it was off. Because I wouldn't have a clue. With that sig, I did the above process.  For a newbie, this is totally obscure mess and felt like stumbling to success, in the dark, with a  blindfold on, and your shoelaces tied together. 

In my helplessness, I ended up going to a wise and kind mentor, who took pity on my youthful ignorance and general cluelessness.  He helped me get a grip on what we were trying to do. I pretend to understand. hahaha. But his help was totally essential for me to get anyplace.  For him, adjusting uBITX BFO  was a normal as milk on cereal: automatic and natural. For me, it was like...what? hahaha.

My budda like guru is the world renowned Dan W3BU. Who just happens to post about BFOing in this forum.  Here he wrote about using another radio while adjusting his uBITX.

https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/70931

His post might help.  Feel free to ask him anything. I did. hahah.

If you are a visual type, here is a good youtube vid on uBITX BFOing.

https://youtu.be/sXJmAhpAjeI

At the end of the day, you'll just go into setup menu and tweak the calibration # until the freq display is close to where it should be.  If you use the memory manager, the process is much faster as you change the value in the MM, write it to the ubitx, and observe how much you improved or screwed things up.  And iterate your way to success.  But regardless of interface, the essential process is identical. 

Don
km4udx

Re: New build - setup / calibrartion question #calibration #ssb

Don - KM4UDX
 

Yes, I'm sorry the calibration and BFO process is such a muddle. Others here can help more, I'm sure.

In summary, all the various procedures and descriptions boil down to going into setup mode, adjusting the calibration #, saving it, then observing the current displayed freq vs the freq that you know you are listening to.  Repeat until the display freq matches the actual TX freq. Simple right? And adjusting the BFO process is also simple...tune to a known freq, and adjust the BFO in the setup menu until it sounds good, save the new setting. Repeat till you are happy. What? Excuse me? Hun? hhahaha. 

All that sounds easy, but it isn't, at least for me. How do I know what frequency WWV or CUV is? I mean they both take up a bit of bandwidth. Where exactly in the signal spread do I tune to? And depending on what the reference is sending, the signal spread can change like mad....e.g., a tone vs a voice. And what about the sidebands on voice? ahhhhh....help me.....Yeeks, what a mess. 

I ended up finding a sort of random signal on my SDR that looked like it was really narrow, on a simple frequency with a bunch of zeros, and it didn't change.  I figured it was really on that freq and used it as a reference. God help me if it was off. Because I wouldn't have a clue. With that sig, I did the above process.  For a newbie, this is totally obscure mess and felt like stumbling to success, in the dark, with a  blindfold on, and your shoelaces tied together. 

In my helplessness, I ended up going to a wise and kind mentor, who took pity on my youthful ignorance and general cluelessness.  He helped me get a grip on what we were trying to do. I pretend to understand. hahaha. But his help was totally essential for me to get anyplace.  For him, adjusting uBITX BFO  was a normal as milk on cereal: automatic and natural. For me, it was like...what? hahaha.

My budda like guru is the world renowned Dan W3BU. Who just happens to post about BFOing in this forum.  Here he wrote about using another radio while adjusting his uBITX.

https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/70931

His post might help.  Feel free to ask him anything. I did. hahah.

If you are a visual type, here is a good youtube vid on uBITX BFOing.

https://youtu.be/sXJmAhpAjeI

At the end of the day, you'll just go into setup menu and tweak the calibration # until the freq display is close to where it should be.  If you use the memory manager, the process is much faster as you change the value in the MM, write it to the ubitx, and observe how much you improved or screwed things up.  And iterate your way to success.  But regardless of interface, the essential process is identical. 

Don
km4udx