Date   
Re: Look at this on eBay, ubitx, budget test equipment.

Jonas Sanamon
 

Hi Folks,

For #3,4 & 5 below I think the Hermes Lite 2 project is good bang for the buck ($225). And You get an excellent little SDR Transceiver as well.  Open Source SW and HW.
For the latest group buy the fab "Makerfabs" produced quite a few extra units and they still have some in stock, https://www.makerfabs.com/hermes-lite-2.html
Get them while they last.

I have commercial interests in the project :-)

For #3 you also need a directional coupler, build your own or get one cheap on ebay/ali express
For #5 you also need a way to vary the signal level beyond the 7 dB range the power level can be adjusted on the HL2 itself. Build Your own T or Pi attenuators or get some cheap on ebay/ali express.   Or better yet get a variable attenuator (more expensive)

Best Regards,
Jonas - SM4VEY

Den mån 13 maj 2019 kl 05:38 skrev Robert D. Bowers <n4fbz@...>:

Kelly, I would suggest this as a pattern of equipment purchases:

1: a good DVM.  There are good ones which won't break your wallet - and you would want as good as you can find.  I've seen them with all sorts of abilities, such as a (rather low bandwidth) frequency counter, transistor tester, and cap meter.  I've heard some horror stories about Chinese products, but I've used some of their stuff and have had no problems with it.  I use a fancy Radio Shack meter which has been adequate, accurate, and precise enough - and rugged.

(Equally important to a good meter - a good soldering iron.)

2: Look for a used scope, minimum 30mhz bandwidth.  Unless you have a lot of experience with them, stick to a used (but working) analog scope.  I've seen some pretty good deals at hamfests... working condition, for under $100.  The more you know, the more useful it can be!

3: Somewhere near the top, antenna testing gear is a necessity.  If you have soldering experience, I would suggest "rolling your own".  I could point out some inexpensive pieces that can be combined together as a very effective tool.  The Handbook has some good stuff in it, the Experimental Methods in RF design book is much better.  (I combine ideas from that with arduino, and have some really useful circuits, like a wide bandwidth and very sensitive dBm meter that reports signal strength to software or spreadsheet - more than a thousand times a second.)

4: Something that receives across the bands - a general coverage receiver of some sort is (IMO) almost a necessity on a decent bench - something with at least moderate shielding and can receive WWV and so on.  Along these lines, if you work with VHF or UHF, a decent SDR dongle is cheap and can be used for all sorts of things - like checking the deviation (and spurs) on a 2m rig.  I paid less than $30 for mine (NESDR Smart)... and there are some which are better and that can go down well into the HF range (mine stops around 27mhz). 

THEN I would recommend a signal generator.  (It could be combined with #3 to do some impressive work.)  I built my own unit by combining a DDS kit with a good attenuator salvaged from a burned signal generator.  You combine them together in a single case, and shield and ground everything, you can keep leakage to a minimum and have something really useful.  For instance... have a impedance bridge with an unknown ferrite toroid on one leg (with a single loop of wire through it)... drive the thing with the signal generator (programmed, using a computer to step it through a frequency range), and watch the output with the digitizing dBm meter.  Presto - you can with a little reading and math, figure out the characteristics of the toroid!  (Especially if you have a couple of known-value caps you can throw in the circuit...)

With those, you can get really creative.

Bob

N4FBZ

_._,_._,_

BitX40 with Case Unassembled For Sale

Jim WB2LHP in MI <jmarco1955@...>
 

Greetings. I still have the one BitX40 radio with case for sale...Includes working and tested board set with Allard's firmware update and brand new unassembled case kit from INKITS. Complete with all parts, cables and controls as received...$100 shipped. CONUS only. PayPal only please. Thanks for looking. Jim WB2LHP

Re: #ubitx V6 #ubitx

Jack, W8TEE
 

On Thursday, January 16, 2020, 11:24:08 AM EST, <k7ome@...> wrote:



--
Jack, W8TEE

Re: #ubitx V6 #ubitx

k7ome@...
 

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5 Where to buy power socket #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5

Jerry Gaffke
 

A three wire AC plug seems an excellent (ie, free!) choice for personal use.
Could key it by soldering a copper tube over the ground lug, and trimming the ground lug
socket off of the mating power cord that runs over to your power supply.
Add big red letters above that connector on the rig stating "12VDC".

 


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 06:54 PM, Wayne Leake wrote:
Some hams I knew in Californicated were using 120 V AC plugs on their radios. However, that is a piss poor Idea, considering what that voltage can quickly do to an item made for 12VDC, should someone happen to plug it into an AC outlet.

Re: Rugged Case Options? #ubitx

Jerry Gaffke
 

Rob,

I'm guessing that your replying to my post of over two years ago:
    https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/36989
about this $10 case:
    https://www.jameco.com/z/CMC11949-R-Case-Metal-7-3-L-x-6-3-W-x-2-75-H-50-Cs_208929.html

It is made of two U shaped pieces of sheet metal.
The white bottom part is of aluminum, about 0.045 inches thick, easy to flex.
The black top part is of steel, around 0.040 inches thick and plenty stiff.
The the white part has two upturned edges along the bottom about 0.400 inches high
to which the top part attaches via four sheet metal screws.
The front and back panels are not supported other than by the bend in the bottom U,
though you could screw hidden L brackets into the black cover to offer that support.

It's plenty good enough for my needs.  The thin aluminum is easy to cut holes in.
As stated in my original post, a tight fit from side-to-side, but that's not an issue.
Top to bottom is almost twice as high as it needs to be for the stock uBitx heatsinks,
but you need most of the front panel space anyway unless you mount the display
to the top surface.  This case could easily be trimmed down if you don't want it so high.

Vents are not a bad thing, the IRF510's do need to get cooling somehow.
If you plan to be operating from a mountaintop in a hailstorm after lugging
your uBItx in a backpack otherwise full of rocks, perhaps you need a thick extruded
aluminum case with the IRF510's somehow bolted to that case to sink heat.
Most of us can get by with wrapping a relatively fragile uBitx in a spare stocking hat,
and then stuffing it along with antenna and battery and tuner and mike and key
and a bottle of brandy into a good stiff box of some sort.

Here's how ND6T did the heatsink on his Bitx40, this will also work on the uBitx:
    http://bitxhacks.blogspot.com/2017/01/nd6ts-approach-to-heat-sinking-irf-510.html
Alternately, could remove the IRF510's, bend the leads up 90 degrees from the front face,
and then solder them to the bottom of the board and bolt them to the bottom of the case.
They must be insulated from the case.  Keep the leads about as short as they are now.

I'm sure there are plenty of others in the forum with other suggestions for a case.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 07:40 PM, Rob French (KC4UPR) wrote:
Jerry, what do you think about this case as far as portable use?  I was a little concerned with the vents, I figure they'd make it a lot easier for foreign matter to get in there.

Rob KC4UPR

Re: No XMIT, No Recv #v6

k7ome@...
 

I agree about the defaulting the EEPROM idea, Jerry.  That's why I put that into the code yesterday.  I made a short demo video of the changes I've made to the software for my ham club and put it on YT.  If you're interested you can see it here:   https://youtu.be/hrWwwUSk6hU         The changes include frequency locking, and organizing two sub menus to get rid of that long pause used to access Setup.  Restoring the calibration values for Freq and BFO makes recalibrating the radio much easier .  

Just trying to make it more user friendly ....

Re: #ubitx V6 #ubitx

Dave Dixon
 

HI,
     Can anyone tell me where i can buy the on/off/volume control for the V6 bitx mines broken off. dave

Re: sotabeams filter installation

howard winwood G4GPF
 

I don't think the volume level would be high enough, I assume it was originally intended to be an add on to a rig that took it's input from the phone/speaker output then feeding a separate amp, hence two volume controls again. Trying to get it to work with just one vol control would reduce it's capabilities somewhat. Yes ! It would make installation much easier, but..............!


On Wed, 15 Jan 2020, 23:49 Mike WA0YCN, <mgassman@...> wrote:
Wouldn’t it work to insert it between audio connector for volume control high side and the control?

Re: Question about power output #v5 #ubitx

Anthony F4HUY
 

Hi Gary,

my ubitx run with v5.1 firmware (that i can see on the screen at startup)

73'

Re: Question about power output #v5 #ubitx

Anthony F4HUY
 

Hi Jerry,

thx you, it's a good start to check.
my ubitx run with v5.1 firmware (that i can see on the screen at startup)
my oscilloscope can up to 50mhz,
yesterday, i have cheked the rf connector, i use SO239 instead BNC because my antenna and TOS meter is already PL/SO239

i 'll check this weekend, relay, coils, and test point, and back to you.

73'

Re: Rugged Case Options? #ubitx

Rob French (KC4UPR)
 

Jerry, what do you think about this case as far as portable use?  I was a little concerned with the vents, I figure they'd make it a lot easier for foreign matter to get in there.

Rob KC4UPR

Re: display upside down

David Alexander
 

i fixed the problem by turning over the display.  works
dave
k7da

On 1/15/2020 7:03 PM, Jack, W8TEE via Groups.Io wrote:
I haven't look at Farhan's code in detail, but the Adafruit library has a setRotation() call that allows you to rotate the orientation of the display. I don't know if Farhan is using it, however.

Jack, W8TEE

On Wednesday, January 15, 2020, 5:22:53 PM EST, Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:


You will need to provide the details on the uBitx: version, any extra addons, etc. 

Best choice is to just remove and reinstall the display.

73
Evan
AC9TU

--
Jack, W8TEE

#ubitx-help #ubitx-help

Tony
 

Hi my name is Tony ei3it, A friend of mine left me in a uBitx he built which has a problem the raduino nano witch seams dead no reaction from it the display lights up but nothing happens, so put my raduino nano into his unit and away she went worked perfectly.
Now I was trying to get a complete board but no success so fair, I wonder how could I get help.
I have heard that chaps have built a version I wonder could I get 1 or 2 of them depending on availability HI Hears hoping some one can help, thanks   

Re: display upside down

Jack, W8TEE
 

I haven't look at Farhan's code in detail, but the Adafruit library has a setRotation() call that allows you to rotate the orientation of the display. I don't know if Farhan is using it, however.

Jack, W8TEE

On Wednesday, January 15, 2020, 5:22:53 PM EST, Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:


You will need to provide the details on the uBitx: version, any extra addons, etc. 

Best choice is to just remove and reinstall the display.

73
Evan
AC9TU

--
Jack, W8TEE

Re: display upside down

 

Just what I had in mind, maybe a VK/ZL version was sent to US ?

Raj


At 16-01-20, you wrote:
QTH is in north or south hemisphere?

_._


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 3:07 PM David Alexander <oldbeeman@...> wrote:
thinking about this the picture was rightside up when i first connected to as i had it in the panel and was working.
what might have happened?
dave


On 1/15/2020 1:23 PM, David Alexander wrote:
is there a way to turn the picture over on the display.

apparently  i mounted the display upside down.
you would have thought that the  labels would be right side up when mounted but i guess not cause the picture is wrong now.

dave k7da

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5 Where to buy power socket #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5

Wayne Leake
 

 Some hams I knew in Californicated were using 120 V AC plugs on their radios. However, that is a piss poor Idea, considering what that voltage can quickly do to an item made for 12VDC, should someone happen to plug it into an AC outlet.
 The Powerpoles are nice, but a bit costly.
 I bought some sockets similar to the ones that came with the BITX 40 and the ubitx, as far as I know, on EBay pretty cheap. They are still pretty much ideal for the BITX and UNITS radios, and low cost to boot if you shop a bit.

Wayne WA2YNE

Re: #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5 Where to buy power socket #ubitx #ubitx-help #v5

Alex Netherton
 

If I were putting in another power socket, I would use Anderson Power Poles. They give a positive connection, and are unlikely to be cross polarized.
I use them on everything!
73 de W5ALX


On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 8:56 AM Przemek <przemek.naganski@...> wrote:
My power socket does not provide a good connection. Where can I buy new ones (preferably on aliexpress). What is the socket model


--
Alex Netherton, W5ALX
Buncombe County NC, EM85ro

Re: bitx 40 pcb

Wayne Leake
 

For anyone interested in bare boards for BITX40 and 20, amateurradioits.in still has some different ones available.
 The one I purchased uses certain social SBL something mixers. One they sell uses ADE something mixers, and some use easy to make mixers.
 Just a thought.
 I might buy an older version board later on for future use.

Wayne WA2YNE

On Wed, Jan 15, 2020, 1:01 PM Dave Dixon <wylyeguy2@...> wrote:
Dave
         i have a fully populated version 3 board minus raduino email me off site daveg0ayd@...

On Wed, 15 Jan 2020 at 15:48, dave <dgclifford@...> wrote:
anyone got a bix40 pcb bare or (partially) populated they want to part with  dave c  gw0nvf

Re: sotabeams filter installation

Mike WA0YCN
 

Wouldn’t it work to insert it between audio connector for volume control high side and the control?