Date   

Re: Tuning clicks

W9ZIM
 

There's apparently no single solution that works for everybody.  I have pretty prominent clicks in my Bitx, and I haven't decided yet if they bother enough to do anything about it.
--
Darren, W9ZIM


Re: BitX-20 - Missing parts? Or substitutions?

Bob Bennett
 

No Sarma. There is one component marked on the lower right corner below the 220k resistor, between that and the 'FINE T'. It is the indication for resistor, but there is not component value.

Bob


Re: BitX-20 - Missing parts? Or substitutions?

Bob Bennett
 

Thanks Dexter. I am still new on this group and don't recall seeing your earlier post. I apologize. I used the UF rather than uF because that is what the pcb had on it. Thanks for the other info that I can use the 47 uF cap. I am a 'paint by the numbers' new kit builder and already this board had one idiosyncracy and did not know if this was another one. I did have the opportunity to meet Ashhar Farhan in May and he explained that the BitX-20, as open source, has been taken over by others and he was not close to the changes that have been made.  I have searched for the instructions for this particular board and can't find the exact one although I have been putting it together with the instructions that I did find.

Bob


Re: Old group messages

Jorge Luiz Fenerich
 

     
          Thank you so much Vince, hit the fly, that's exactly what I need.
          Jorge PY2PVT _._

2017-07-18 21:13 GMT-03:00 Vince Vielhaber <vev@...>:

You mean other than going here:  https://groups.io/g/BITX20   ??

Or is that what you're looking for?

Vince.



On 07/18/2017 08:10 PM, Jorge Luiz Fenerich wrote:

    *     Hello everyone, how do I view the group's old messages? Thank
you.*
*--
*
*  73 de Jorge PY2PVT
  Campinas SP
  GG67MD*


--
  Michigan VHF Corp.   http://www.nobucks.net/   http://www.CDupe.com/
                          http://www.metalworkingfun.com






--
  73 de Jorge PY2PVT
  Campinas SP
  GG67MD


Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Adrian
 

Have my W8TEE board connected to my Bitx40 and hearing lots of signals including JA stations. Very happy

Adrian


Re: Starting Over

William R Maxwell
 

I might suggest that you defer upgrading to 1.18 until you have it working as delivered? One less and potentially large variable to juggle up front.


On 19/07/2017 12:05 AM, Curt M. wrote:
Hi guys, I have a new Bitx40 kit coming tomorrow.  Since my case is already to go with the parts installed and wired up it should just be a matter of re-verifying the Wire Up, upgrading the radrino to the 1.18 firmware, Installing the main board and display into the box, setting the firmware to accept the 100K 10-turn pot and calibrating the receive frequency.  Even though that sounds simple, after the first one that turned into a disaster, I have to say that I'm skeptical that the new one will just drop into place and start functioning.  Hopefully I'm wrong about that feeling.

I've built mine into one of the cases available on eBay.  I'll post a picture below.  Are there any known issue with using a metal case like this?  I have the speaker mounted in the lid with little speaker clips holding it to the lid and it's wired directly to the board connector and not grounded to the case.  My antenna connection is the standard black & brown wire that came with the kit and the connector is an SO-239 instead of the BNC.  I see that some people have swapped the black and brown wire out for coax but I'm under the impression that can be an improvement or precaution and not necessarily a deal breaker in the radio working on not working.

Now when I tested the first one I screwed my 50 watt Bird dummy load right to the back of the radio.  This time I may put a couple of foot cable between the radio and the dummy load because I'm not sure if that could have caused a problem with the original board having it that close to the radio or not.  Seems kind of strange if it would cause a problem.  

After reading all of the comments I kind of feel like the Bitx40 is a few seconds away from destruction with something minor causing the destruction. I almost want to record a video of me opening the box, unwrapping the contents, inspecting the board, upgrading the firmware, installing the parts, powering it up and seeing if it will transmit just to prove that I'm doing everything correct.  Again, because I'm skeptical.  I'm not going to do that because I shouldn't have to do that but it's crossed my mind.  Luckily, the negative feelings that I have pror to receiving this one can't damage the radio and even though I have those feelings I'm not going to let them interfere with the care that I'm going to take starting this one up and will go way beyond what I thought was extreme care starting the first one up.

I'm just wondering if any of these have functioned on day one and remained functioning with a reasonable amount of use for an extended period of time?  It just seems like everyone has changed some part that eventually went defective or didn't work on day one and they had to repair something?  I'd like to think that if this one works right out of the gate and I use it with a 40 meter dipole that is checked on my antenna analyzer prior to each use that I should get some time out of using it.

So outside of re-verifying my wires for literally about the 30th time does anyone have any suggestions outside of following the Wire Up and checkout procedure?  I plan to even check off each line of the Wire Up even though that seems a little extreme just to have some sort of hope to get this one started off on a better foot.  I've built a ton of kit projects and none of them have gone like my first Bitx.  I really can't trace the first one not  transmitting back to anything that I could have done.

Again, forgive my skepticism but this first one not transmitting and the display nearly self distracting after switching from 12VDC to 13.8VDC during the troubleshooting has me skeptical.  Hopefully tomorrow will be a better experience.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Curt

Here is the picture of the case. I still need to do something with the volume on/off pot.  I either need to trim the shaft back and modify a knob to fit it or I need to replace that with something common.  I'd still like to have that in one device rather than a separate on off switch and volume control.


Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I had some noise, too,  but that was a flat forehead mistake on my part. Check for ground loops. I'll try to get to the Fast Tune code in the next day or two.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack,
 
With your help I have the voltage dialed in, my calibration dialed in. I would like to share my observations.
In a nut shell for me – progress.
Really like the display – miles ahead of the LCD raduino.
Looking forward to be able to change the step – lots of turns right now.
Waiting on a 7808 regulator to lower the power input.
My bitx40 has a lot of noise on receive when connected to your board regardless of whether I use out or out2 compared to the raduino/lcd. Tomorrow I plan to try suing some coax RG174 in hopes that the noise will decrease. Strong stations break through but can’t pickup weak stations. Of course the band has been terrible.
 
If you have any thoughts, recommendations or questions about my setup let me know
 
art
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 10:14 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
No, that's not what's needed. If you want to read the voltage, you need to pass your supply voltage through a dropping resistor so the voltage doesn't exceed 5V. The end of that resistor is then connected to MYVOLTAGEPIN (A14). The code starting at line 1515 is the block that is responsible for reading that voltage and displaying it on the screen. The Mega should NOT be reading 12V directly on an analog pin. As I said before, this is explain in Rel. 2 of the manual, posted on the group site.
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack
 
Yes the power pins for the tft/vfo are connected to my supply
 
art
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:37 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
did you connect a line to the voltage pin from your supply?
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack
 
So after calculating mydividerconstant and recompiling the voltage still floats from 12.2 down to 2.3-2.7. So for now I just commented it out. However it would be great if I can get it to work correctly. Any thoughts
 
Display voltage from my supply (has a digital readout) 12.0v
Voltage at tp3 – 11.6v
 
art
 
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:06 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Hey, Art...not a problem. The file's only been there a day or two and it will take a while to know it's available. No doubt I'll be posting new versions later on. BTW, my TFT/VFO PCB doesn't have to be used to replace the VFO. It's also a good way to experiment with the Mega 2560 Pro Mini since all of the pins are brought out to header pins, making it easy to attach things for testing. Indeed, you could leave off the support components and use it "stand-alone". I've tried to price it reasonably to encourage you people to experiment with it, to all of our benefit.
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack
Thanks. Feel a bit foolish for missing the info in the manual
 
Art

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:37 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Art:
 
I'm sure the flicker is because the voltage pin is floating. The code is written so the display updates every 2 seconds, but only if there is a "real" swing in the voltage. You can see the code in loop(), around line 1515. The way to get this to work on the display is explained in the B40 Assembly Manual (Rev. 2) that is in the Files section. Look for "Determining the Displayed Voltage". If you don't want the voltage display activated, just comment out the code block that starts at 1515.
 
Al Peter helped me fix the "encoder noise" is was hearing. Turns out it was a flat forehead mistake on my part. In the process of separating the PA power source from the TFT power source, I managed to introduce a ground loop. Once that was determined it was fairly easy to fix.
 
I'm back onto the other features I want to add.
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson via Groups.Io <olsonaj6927@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack

I must have missed this in the build or setup. The voltage continues to change so it must be floating. I have the tft/vfo connected to the bitx40 power so don't think I have a ground problem. Could you resend the detail about the voltage divider 

"If you connect the display voltage pin to your voltage source, it will flash one or two times at power up, but will only update itself if there is a measurable change in the supply voltage. My guess is that you don't have yours tied to either ground or a voltage divider. As a result, the pin is floating which is read as a new voltage which triggers a screen update.I had mine running several hours last night and it never varied enough to update the field". 

art
 
 
 
Virus-free. www.avast.com
 
 



Re: Old group messages

Andrew Krause
 

Click the "Group Home" link below this message. Use the search feature. There is also a files section. You will have to be logged in to Google for it to work.


On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 8:10 PM, Jorge Luiz Fenerich <py2pvt@...> wrote:

         Hello everyone, how do I view the group's old messages? Thank you.
--
  73 de Jorge PY2PVT
  Campinas SP
  GG67MD




--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO
andrew.krause@...
(404) 732-2369




My 2nd Bitx40 Build

lostfrogsrecords <dave@...>
 

This is my second BitX radio, and all seems to be working although I have not made a QSO yet. Power into a dummy load at 12.5V is about 6W when whistling.

I was listening to a station that was fading in and out. It seemed that when I operated the PTT (no sound into the mic) it would get louder for a while and then fade again. Operate PTT again and it got louder again. I will check my mic polarity when I can get back to this. Any other tips regarding this apparent issue?

Dave, KI4PSR


Re: Old group messages

Vince Vielhaber
 

You mean other than going here: https://groups.io/g/BITX20 ??

Or is that what you're looking for?

Vince.

On 07/18/2017 08:10 PM, Jorge Luiz Fenerich wrote:

* Hello everyone, how do I view the group's old messages? Thank
you.*
*--
*
* 73 de Jorge PY2PVT
Campinas SP
GG67MD*


Old group messages

Jorge Luiz Fenerich
 


         Hello everyone, how do I view the group's old messages? Thank you.
--
  73 de Jorge PY2PVT
  Campinas SP
  GG67MD


Re: Still Not Working

Richard Spohn
 

If you feed your 12v alarm clock with 18v, you might get about 2.75
hours more into the day. - 73s and Hi, Rich

On 7/15/17, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nope...no solutions as I'm looking myself. However, I've been through the
process you're going through and the good news is...you're doomed! You
thought you didn't have enough time before, you've just opened a new,
never-ending horizon of new projects. Enjoy!!
Jack, W8TEE

From: David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01=yahoo.com@groups.io>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Still Not Working

OK Jack. I have avoided these little computers because at 72 I don't need
another hobby. BUT since my Bitx arrived and after reading all the
problems with it I just ordered your book. Darn, I am retired but have less
time now than I had as an active family doctor....... Any solutions for
that?
Dave K8WPE
On Jul 14, 2017, at 10:36 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
<econjack=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


This is an unabashed plug: The Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book was
written for non-programming hams who want to ease into learning about the
Arduino family of microcontrollers. It starts out with the installation of
the Arduino IDE software and the first project is an IDE display. It ends
with a solar panel that tracks the sun. You can read the Table of Contents
for the book by going to Amazon, search for the book, and then click on the
Look Inside banner that's on the cover of the book. Once you get hooked on
these little devices--and you will--then you need to read Beginning C for
Arduino. After that, the XYL will wonder where you went. These things are
fun to play with and cheap enough not to worry.
Jack, W8TEE

From: Arv Evans <arvid.evans@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Still Not Working

Curt

As you know the Nano board has built-in USB-to-TTL conversion. This TTL
data
is handled by the built in UART and managed by the boot-loader. That puts
your
compiled program data into memory for execution by the Arduino. All this
usually works
fine. I have only damaged one of my Nano boards in over two years of
experimenting.
That one has burned open its protection diode between +volts and the 5V
regulator.
I have never had any problem with the original boot loader code. I have had
lots of
problems trying to reinstall the OptiBoot boot loader, mostly because there
are so
many of them....all different.

When you begin a software reload or upgrade of you Arduino Nano the on-board
LED
will light while the download is progressing. The RESET LED will flicker at
the start
of this download process. If that happens it probably means that the boot
loader is
seeing your attempt to install software. If that does not happen you will
see some
error messages on the PC program that you are using to install the
software. These
messages may, or may not, be helpful. If you compiled the software with the
wrong
Arduino board setting the resulting HEX-code may not be compatible and the
installer
may refuse to accept the code. A common error with the Arduino IDE as a
software
installer is to forget to set the USB/tty port number. That can block
software from
installing.

If your Nano is socket mounted it can easily be removed and replaced. If it
is wired
into the BITX-40 you may have to remove the leads and re-wire it. My own
BITX-40
is old enough that it does not include the raduino or Si5351a synthesizer.
This required
me to make my own controller using a Chinese made Arduino Nano and an
Si5351a
board from Hans G0UPL at QRP-Kits.com. Given the low price of a replacement

Arduino Nano it probably does not make any sense to try just replacing the
AVR
Mega-328 processor on your Nano board. Purchased in singles a new Mega-328

may cost more than a replacement Nano with its new CPU chip.

Some may gripe about using a Chinese made Arduino Nano, but those AVR
Mega-328
CPU chips are made under license to Atmel and will meet all the original
specifications.
I use them all the time and have never found a bad one.

I don't know what your interest and time available might be, but I highly
recommend
hams and experimenters to obtain a few spare Nano boards, and a couple of
LCD
displays just for play and entertainment. It is educational, and will
qualify you as
a local "expert" in programming circles. Friends and family will be
amazed and the
local old-timer hams will want you to build all sort of digital things for
them. 8-)

You can experiment with an Arduino without the LCD by using an attached PC
as
a serial terminal. The Serial_R/W commands let you send text to the PC and
read
keyboard entries from it over the USB/ttl cable. With Chinese made Arduino
Nano
devices costing less than $2.00 each this is a very economical way to learn
all about
the Arduino and how to make your own radio controllers and automated test
equipment. Start with making a simple digital voltmeter using the built-in
ADC (Analog-
to-Digital Converter) and your PC as the readout device. This simple layout
gives
you 0.0047 volt resolution for zero-to 5 volts input. With digital readout
via an LCD or
your PC this is an amazing piece of test equipment for the workbench.

Arv
_._


On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Larry Smith <815cpu@...> wrote:

You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did
solder in a inline header so you can remove future Nano's. A low profile
socket is helpful so you can later connect the display module
sandwich.Larry
On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:

Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this
sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and
it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino
from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is
plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the
same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that
I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that
makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no
idea. I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those
two pots and keying up the mic. I was using a fully insulated screw driver










Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Art Olson
 

Jack,

 

With your help I have the voltage dialed in, my calibration dialed in. I would like to share my observations.

In a nut shell for me – progress.

Really like the display – miles ahead of the LCD raduino.

Looking forward to be able to change the step – lots of turns right now.

Waiting on a 7808 regulator to lower the power input.

My bitx40 has a lot of noise on receive when connected to your board regardless of whether I use out or out2 compared to the raduino/lcd. Tomorrow I plan to try suing some coax RG174 in hopes that the noise will decrease. Strong stations break through but can’t pickup weak stations. Of course the band has been terrible.

 

If you have any thoughts, recommendations or questions about my setup let me know

 

art

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 10:14 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

No, that's not what's needed. If you want to read the voltage, you need to pass your supply voltage through a dropping resistor so the voltage doesn't exceed 5V. The end of that resistor is then connected to MYVOLTAGEPIN (A14). The code starting at line 1515 is the block that is responsible for reading that voltage and displaying it on the screen. The Mega should NOT be reading 12V directly on an analog pin. As I said before, this is explain in Rel. 2 of the manual, posted on the group site.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

 

Yes the power pins for the tft/vfo are connected to my supply

 

art

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:37 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

did you connect a line to the voltage pin from your supply?

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

 

So after calculating mydividerconstant and recompiling the voltage still floats from 12.2 down to 2.3-2.7. So for now I just commented it out. However it would be great if I can get it to work correctly. Any thoughts

 

Display voltage from my supply (has a digital readout) 12.0v

Voltage at tp3 – 11.6v

 

art

 

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:06 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Hey, Art...not a problem. The file's only been there a day or two and it will take a while to know it's available. No doubt I'll be posting new versions later on. BTW, my TFT/VFO PCB doesn't have to be used to replace the VFO. It's also a good way to experiment with the Mega 2560 Pro Mini since all of the pins are brought out to header pins, making it easy to attach things for testing. Indeed, you could leave off the support components and use it "stand-alone". I've tried to price it reasonably to encourage you people to experiment with it, to all of our benefit.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

Thanks. Feel a bit foolish for missing the info in the manual

 

Art

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:37 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:

Art:

 

I'm sure the flicker is because the voltage pin is floating. The code is written so the display updates every 2 seconds, but only if there is a "real" swing in the voltage. You can see the code in loop(), around line 1515. The way to get this to work on the display is explained in the B40 Assembly Manual (Rev. 2) that is in the Files section. Look for "Determining the Displayed Voltage". If you don't want the voltage display activated, just comment out the code block that starts at 1515.

 

Al Peter helped me fix the "encoder noise" is was hearing. Turns out it was a flat forehead mistake on my part. In the process of separating the PA power source from the TFT power source, I managed to introduce a ground loop. Once that was determined it was fairly easy to fix.

 

I'm back onto the other features I want to add.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson via Groups.Io <olsonaj6927@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

I must have missed this in the build or setup. The voltage continues to change so it must be floating. I have the tft/vfo connected to the bitx40 power so don't think I have a ground problem. Could you resend the detail about the voltage divider 

"If you connect the display voltage pin to your voltage source, it will flash one or two times at power up, but will only update itself if there is a measurable change in the supply voltage. My guess is that you don't have yours tied to either ground or a voltage divider. As a result, the pin is floating which is read as a new voltage which triggers a screen update.I had mine running several hours last night and it never varied enough to update the field". 

art

 

 

 

Virus-free. www.avast.com

 

 


Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I don't recall seeing it. Send it to my regular email using the QRZ.com address; so sense sucking up the group's time.

Jack, W8TEE




From: John P <j.m.price@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 12:42 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
The vendor's name is Items in wideenm991 store on eBay! . See # 162593120234.
Thanks Jack! Did you get my email about the VFO boards?
 
--
John - WA2FZW



Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: BitX-20 - Missing parts? Or substitutions?

Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
 

I have made a triad of tiny (smaller then the one in the kit) electret elements and wired them in parallel. Any thoughts on what might be the impedance match/mismatch issue? I am hoping to get better sounding audio. Oh yes, I don't want to damage anything either.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD


Re: Starting Over

Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
 

Curt looks like you are well on your way to some fun. I do hope my direct emails to you and the group support have gotten you over the hump/bump. I acquired another broken Bitx from my buddy. I need to replace the IRF510 with a spare Vishay and then try to figure why the raduino won't load v1.18, and probably not v.1.19 either. I suspect a failed Nano. I got some great advice from Mike Hagen on how to remove the defective Nano and replace it with a new one (after I load v1.19) to be sure the new one works. I'll probably get a cheapo clone or two from eBay. (to be sure At least one works I did notice there is a Nano AT mega 168 ($20) at Newark Electric Element 14, but I think ours is an AT mega 328 and I assume they are not interchangeable. I have had an aluminum case for 6 months and will build the repaired Bitx into it. It may be tight quarters but will be very compact and will power it externally, not like mine with an internal AGM battery. Also, every time there is a new improved sketch, I need to remove my 10 turn pot to attach the Raduino mini usb cord. I ordered 2-90 deg mini usb cords to try and work around that inconvenience. That's it for now. Start from scratch, and If you get to any questionable area (color of wires, what grounds, which 12vdc to where etc) on your new Bitx, please ask. It would be very "inconvenient" if you to wire it exactly as the first one and just by chance you had made an error and repeated the same mistake. The old adage measure 2 or three times and cut once, sure applies here.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD





Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD


Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Adrian
 

I purchased mine through Aliexpress for around $12. They are slow on postage though paid on 2nd June not posted until 16th.

Adrian


Re: BitX on Display

lostfrogsrecords <dave@...>
 

Ha!  I expected this to happen!  This message was intended for local hams in WCARES in TN .  (Williamson County Amateur Radio Emergency Service)  But hams in the area are welcome!
Dave, KI4PSR, building my second BitX40!


Re: Starting Over

Bill Meara
 

Curt:  You should definitely try to get the original BITX to work.  Being able to work on these rigs is the whole idea behind the BITX project.  Fix the first one, you'll learn a lot, and then you will have two!   73  Bill N2CQR


On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 5:55 PM, Willy <W1LY@...> wrote:


Hi Curt, I have had my bitx on the air for about 6 months now and have made hundreds of contacts from my Rhode Island  QTH from South Africa to California with no problems. I have a nearly stock BitX with the exception of a 10 turn pot and Allard's mods running about 6 watts SSB and a little more on CW. I am using a 30 Ah LiFPo  battery most of the time at a little over 13 volts. 

The radio has worked flawlessly,and I have little interest in using my commercial rigs. There are a few things that I will work on to improve but, all in all I, will also say it is the best $59 I have spent. I am well on my way to BitX DXCC and WAS. I am confident that you too can have the same BitX experience. All that is needed is patience, a positive attitude, and most important, a good antenna. I am only using an inverted V at 50 ft but I make sure it is well matched to whatever frequency I am using.

I did trouble shoot a BitX 40 that the owner thought was beyond help and discovered several simple wiring errors that had destroyed  his mic element and that did not follow HFsigs instructions even though the owner had confirmed proper wiring many times. Sometimes one needs a break to get a fresh perspective.

Have great confidence that you will love this wonderful little radio/learning tool. 
73, Willy W1LY



On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 11:19 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Some have mentioned that they are substituting different displays for the Raduino board. Perhaps people like Curt who need a new Raduino can buy the ones from those who don't need them...win-win.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Starting Over

Hi Arv, I'll back up a little.  While troubleshooting my original Bitx transmit issue I switched from a 12vdc 1.5 amp wall wort supply to my Samlex 13.8v power supply.  Within 30 seconds I noticed that the top row of the display went to all black boxes.  The only thing I was doing was adjusting RV1 and RV136.  Being that the display is controlled by the arduino I powered the radio down and connected the USB cable to the arduino to see if maybe it lost it's programming.  The arduino would no longer communicate.  I ordered some replacement nanos and I unsoldered the original nano and installed a new nano.  The new nano would take the programming and I can now hear audio on the radio and tell that by tuning the VFO that it was partially working but the display still had black boxes on it.  I tired to see if now it was a contrast problem but it's not.  So I have a felling the board that the nano is soldered to took the same hit that the original nano took and that's why the display still doesn't work as it should.  Being that I had ordered a new kit I didn't feel that it was worth also ordering a new radrino board at this time because I still had a main board that has some issues and had a whole new kit coming in.  So that's where I'm at with the original kit.

Curt



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Re: Starting Over

Willy
 

Hi Curt, I have had my bitx on the air for about 6 months now and have made hundreds of contacts from my Rhode Island  QTH from South Africa to California with no problems. I have a nearly stock BitX with the exception of a 10 turn pot and Allard's mods running about 6 watts SSB and a little more on CW. I am using a 30 Ah LiFPo  battery most of the time at a little over 13 volts. 

The radio has worked flawlessly,and I have little interest in using my commercial rigs. There are a few things that I will work on to improve but, all in all I, will also say it is the best $59 I have spent. I am well on my way to BitX DXCC and WAS. I am confident that you too can have the same BitX experience. All that is needed is patience, a positive attitude, and most important, a good antenna. I am only using an inverted V at 50 ft but I make sure it is well matched to whatever frequency I am using.

I did trouble shoot a BitX 40 that the owner thought was beyond help and discovered several simple wiring errors that had destroyed  his mic element and that did not follow HFsigs instructions even though the owner had confirmed proper wiring many times. Sometimes one needs a break to get a fresh perspective.

Have great confidence that you will love this wonderful little radio/learning tool. 
73, Willy W1LY



On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 11:19 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Some have mentioned that they are substituting different displays for the Raduino board. Perhaps people like Curt who need a new Raduino can buy the ones from those who don't need them...win-win.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Starting Over

Hi Arv, I'll back up a little.  While troubleshooting my original Bitx transmit issue I switched from a 12vdc 1.5 amp wall wort supply to my Samlex 13.8v power supply.  Within 30 seconds I noticed that the top row of the display went to all black boxes.  The only thing I was doing was adjusting RV1 and RV136.  Being that the display is controlled by the arduino I powered the radio down and connected the USB cable to the arduino to see if maybe it lost it's programming.  The arduino would no longer communicate.  I ordered some replacement nanos and I unsoldered the original nano and installed a new nano.  The new nano would take the programming and I can now hear audio on the radio and tell that by tuning the VFO that it was partially working but the display still had black boxes on it.  I tired to see if now it was a contrast problem but it's not.  So I have a felling the board that the nano is soldered to took the same hit that the original nano took and that's why the display still doesn't work as it should.  Being that I had ordered a new kit I didn't feel that it was worth also ordering a new radrino board at this time because I still had a main board that has some issues and had a whole new kit coming in.  So that's where I'm at with the original kit.

Curt



Virus-free. www.avast.com