Date   
Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Michael Hagen
 

What do folks do for the Mica Caps in all these band pass filters.

In the old days I had lots.  I know they are great and usually over 200V.

But I see they are $2-3!! EACH! Ouch!  Mouser has some.

Mike, WA6ISP


On 7/7/2017 12:36 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:
If you have a Bitx40 it already has a comparable IRF510 linear amp,
giving around 20 to 25 Watts when powered from 24v.

I do like the LED RF detector on the output.

Jerry


On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 10:10 am, Daniel Isaza wrote:
Thanks a lot Farhan!
That's perfect, I'm building it today. What a nice and simple circuit, respectable power output and also a great detailed post on your blog. FB!
Dan.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Daniel Isaza
 

Hi Jerry,
Yeah, my BitX is fine as it is, even at 5W, 12V.
I'm thinking about hooking it up to some other HB rigs begging for more power... putting about 0.5 ~ 2W out on CW or DSB.
Gotta love the simplicity of single ended PA's.
73!,Dan.


On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 2:36 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
If you have a Bitx40 it already has a comparable IRF510 linear amp,
giving around 20 to 25 Watts when powered from 24v.

I do like the LED RF detector on the output.

Jerry


On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 10:10 am, Daniel Isaza wrote:
Thanks a lot Farhan!
That's perfect, I'm building it today. What a nice and simple circuit, respectable power output and also a great detailed post on your blog. FB!
Dan.


Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Jerry Gaffke
 

If you have a Bitx40 it already has a comparable IRF510 linear amp,
giving around 20 to 25 Watts when powered from 24v.

I do like the LED RF detector on the output.

Jerry


On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 10:10 am, Daniel Isaza wrote:
Thanks a lot Farhan!
That's perfect, I'm building it today. What a nice and simple circuit, respectable power output and also a great detailed post on your blog. FB!
Dan.

Speaker output low and garbled

Don N <kc1at@...>
 

I finally got all of Allards updates in....when I was finished I noticed that the audio output from the speaker was garbled and sounded off frequency. Changed speakers ( all 8 ohm units) no help....hummm.

So I suspected that 47 ohm resistor in series with the speaker or the sidetone wiring.....dropped that 47 ohm resistor to 22 ohms and all is well....got the volume back and nice audio...

all fixed....except I blew the IRF510 out.....

no "good fix" goes unpunished

Don KC1AT

Oops..I did it this time....

David Woodward
 

 I cut jumper L5 and replaced it with a variable inductor from out of the junkbox. It was fun going through the filter from lower to upper side band.
Now when I power up, the raduino won't show anything on the display.
It did show 7.100 but wouldn't tune. So I cut it off. When I cut it back on it was blank...
Is there a way to reset the radiuno or is it fried...my tinkering has got me in trouble.

Raduino LCD Bezel

Michael Hagen
 

I hope these are the latest .STL files.
I have made several of these.  Don't allow the print to curl at the edges.
I used PLA 200 Degrees and 50 Degrees Platform.
Don't over counter sink the bolt holes on you front panel, the edges of the bezel are real close.

Mike, WA6ISP

Re: Bitx40 All done

Michael Hagen
 


On 7/7/2017 10:43 AM, Michael Hagen wrote:

This Bezel fits the supplied LCD.  You use flat head mounting screws, this covers them.

I use supports when printing it, with front side up.

This is rear view.   The recess snugly fits the metal rim of the LCD.

I also have spacers to mount it nicely.

I will find the files.  I think I uploaded them before.

 

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: Bitx40 All done

Michael Hagen
 

This Bezel fits the supplied LCD.  You use flat head mounting screws, this covers them.

I use supports when printing it, with front side up.

This is rear view.   The recess snugly fits the metal rim of the LCD.

I also have spacers to mount it nicely.

I will find the files.  I think I uploaded them before.

 

Re: Bitx40 All done

 

I just ordered some simple ones with no screw holes that I can custom my way in, thanks for the offer Dave wish I had my 3d printer still. I plan to get a hand saw, the hand work doesn't bother me yet as long as its not wrapping torids. My biggest issue now is will I have room for AGC I have started to mount things to the top of the case hihi.

 

 Nice tips and pics guys love the ideas.

 

 73

 David

Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Daniel Isaza
 

Thanks a lot Farhan!
That's perfect, I'm building it today. What a nice and simple circuit, respectable power output and also a great detailed post on your blog. FB!
Dan.

On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 11:46 AM, Ashhar Farhan <farhanbox@...> wrote:

On 7 Jul 2017 10:07 p.m., "Ashhar Farhan" <farhanbox@...> wrote:
i built a similar linear for 40/20. it works very well.
- f

On 7 Jul 2017 2:01 p.m., "Daniel Isaza" <hk4dei@...> wrote:
Hi All,

Does anyone have built this little marvel? Any thoughts? I'm guessing the only mod(s) needed to move it to 40m is the LPF and maybe L1, am I right?

Gonna get another 12V battery ASAP.



found it here:
http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/projects/ham%20radio%20projects.htm

73,
Dan
HK4DEI


Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Ashhar Farhan
 

On 7 Jul 2017 10:07 p.m., "Ashhar Farhan" <farhanbox@...> wrote:
i built a similar linear for 40/20. it works very well.
- f

On 7 Jul 2017 2:01 p.m., "Daniel Isaza" <hk4dei@...> wrote:
Hi All,

Does anyone have built this little marvel? Any thoughts? I'm guessing the only mod(s) needed to move it to 40m is the LPF and maybe L1, am I right?

Gonna get another 12V battery ASAP.



found it here:
http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/projects/ham%20radio%20projects.htm

73,
Dan
HK4DEI

Re: 80m hexfet power amplifier by W7ZOI

Ashhar Farhan
 

i built a similar linear for 40/20. it works very well.
- f

On 7 Jul 2017 2:01 p.m., "Daniel Isaza" <hk4dei@...> wrote:
Hi All,

Does anyone have built this little marvel? Any thoughts? I'm guessing the only mod(s) needed to move it to 40m is the LPF and maybe L1, am I right?

Gonna get another 12V battery ASAP.



found it here:
http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/projects/ham%20radio%20projects.htm

73,
Dan
HK4DEI

Re: Bitx40 All done

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I bought it on Amazon, but they no longer carry it. The closest I can find now is from the Container Store:


They also have one that is a bit larger.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Buck <RadioK4ia@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done

Agreed!  Where did you find the case?

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/7/2017 11:07 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io wrote:
> I think some projects look kinda cool with a clear case.
>
>
> Inline image
>
> Jack, W8TEE
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* pat griffin <patgriffin@...>
> *To:* BITX20@groups.io
> *Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 10:16 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
>
> My solution was to mask the portion of a piece of plexiglas where the
> lcd would go and paint the rest of the plexiglas black.  Then mount the
> lcd behind the previously-masked and now clear part.  The controls
> are mounted on the black part.  The advantage is no cutting.  The
> disadvantage is you have to remember it is plexiglas!!
> 73,
> Pat AA4PG
> Pat Griffin
> http://www.cahabatechnology.com/aa4pg.html
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Sean Barton via
> Groups.Io <kb0ovd=yahoo.com@groups.io>
> *Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 7:54:41 AM
> *To:* BITX20@groups.io
> *Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
> When I did mine someone recommended using a wood chisel to make the
> cutout.  I got a set of cheap chisels from Harbor Freight and clamped
> the panel between a thick piece of steel as a sacrificial backing and a
> straight edge.  I laid the flat part of the chisel along the straight
> edge and started making a series of shallow cuts until I made it through
> the material.  I was a little off on my measurements but otherwise I
> think it turned out pretty well.
>
> Sean
> KB0OVD
>
>
> On Friday, July 7, 2017 7:42 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
> <econjack=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
>
>
> I've used a fret saw, too, and it works pretty well. I draw an outline
> and use C clamps to hold a small metal bar on the line to prevent the
> saw from drifting outside the cutout. That and a little work with a file
> does pretty well. It's still nice to have a bezel though.
>
> Jack, W8TEE
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...>
> *To:* BITX20@groups.io
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 6, 2017 11:57 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
>
> I always drill 4 holes on the inside of the window lines and use a hand
> fret saw to cut the center out.
> Then you need some elbow grease to make the hole neat.
>
> Now if you can get a bezel for the display, then you are in business!
>
> At 07/07/2017, you wrote:
>  >Aperture all within display outline, so a file and a bit of judicious
> 'elbow-grease' would cure any uglies. All those extras! Well done!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3176-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3176-a>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3176-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3176-a>
>
>
> <https://mg.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=br2jaeejcd4as#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
>
>
>





Re: Bitx40 All done

Buck <RadioK4ia@...>
 

Agreed! Where did you find the case?

Buck, k4ia
Honor Roll
8BDXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 7/7/2017 11:07 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io wrote:
I think some projects look kinda cool with a clear case.
Inline image
Jack, W8TEE
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* pat griffin <patgriffin@...>
*To:* BITX20@groups.io
*Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 10:16 AM
*Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
My solution was to mask the portion of a piece of plexiglas where the lcd would go and paint the rest of the plexiglas black. Then mount the lcd behind the previously-masked and now clear part. The controls are mounted on the black part. The advantage is no cutting. The disadvantage is you have to remember it is plexiglas!!
73,
Pat AA4PG
Pat Griffin
http://www.cahabatechnology.com/aa4pg.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Sean Barton via Groups.Io <kb0ovd=yahoo.com@groups.io>
*Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 7:54:41 AM
*To:* BITX20@groups.io
*Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
When I did mine someone recommended using a wood chisel to make the cutout. I got a set of cheap chisels from Harbor Freight and clamped the panel between a thick piece of steel as a sacrificial backing and a straight edge. I laid the flat part of the chisel along the straight edge and started making a series of shallow cuts until I made it through the material. I was a little off on my measurements but otherwise I think it turned out pretty well.
Sean
KB0OVD
On Friday, July 7, 2017 7:42 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I've used a fret saw, too, and it works pretty well. I draw an outline and use C clamps to hold a small metal bar on the line to prevent the saw from drifting outside the cutout. That and a little work with a file does pretty well. It's still nice to have a bezel though.
Jack, W8TEE
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Raj vu2zap <@Raj>
*To:* BITX20@groups.io
*Sent:* Thursday, July 6, 2017 11:57 PM
*Subject:* Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
I always drill 4 holes on the inside of the window lines and use a hand fret saw to cut the center out.
Then you need some elbow grease to make the hole neat.
Now if you can get a bezel for the display, then you are in business!
At 07/07/2017, you wrote:
>Aperture all within display outline, so a file and a bit of judicious
'elbow-grease' would cure any uglies. All those extras! Well done!
<https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3176-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3176-a> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3176-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3176-a> <https://mg.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=br2jaeejcd4as#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

Re: Bitx40 All done

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I think some projects look kinda cool with a clear case. 


Inline image

Jack, W8TEE


From: pat griffin <patgriffin@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done

My solution was to mask the portion of a piece of plexiglas where the lcd would go and paint the rest of the plexiglas black.  Then mount the lcd behind the previously-masked and now clear part.  The controls are mounted on the black part.  The advantage is no cutting.  The disadvantage is you have to remember it is plexiglas!!
73,
Pat AA4PG
Pat Griffin
http://www.cahabatechnology.com/aa4pg.html

From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Sean Barton via Groups.Io <kb0ovd@...>
Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 7:54:41 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
 
When I did mine someone recommended using a wood chisel to make the cutout.  I got a set of cheap chisels from Harbor Freight and clamped the panel between a thick piece of steel as a sacrificial backing and a straight edge.  I laid the flat part of the chisel along the straight edge and started making a series of shallow cuts until I made it through the material.  I was a little off on my measurements but otherwise I think it turned out pretty well.

Sean
KB0OVD


On Friday, July 7, 2017 7:42 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:


I've used a fret saw, too, and it works pretty well. I draw an outline and use C clamps to hold a small metal bar on the line to prevent the saw from drifting outside the cutout. That and a little work with a file does pretty well. It's still nice to have a bezel though.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 6, 2017 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done

I always drill 4 holes on the inside of the window lines and use a hand fret saw to cut the center out.
Then you need some elbow grease to make the hole neat.

Now if you can get a bezel for the display, then you are in business!

At 07/07/2017, you wrote:
>Aperture all within display outline, so a file and a bit of judicious 'elbow-grease' would cure any uglies. All those extras! Well done!







Virus-free. www.avast.com




Re: Bitx40 All done

Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
 

Just leave the LCD opening as is and get this nice bezel to dress it up. https://www.tindie.com/products/WIDGENEERING/16x2-lcd-bezel-with-clear-backplate/

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

Re: Field Day 2017

John P
 

On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 06:00 am, Brian D. K2BRZ wrote:
I operated with my RACES unit (NI2S) and had quite a few QRP contacts, but like you said none identified as BITX operators. It was a great weekend for it.
Surprised we didn't work each other. If you were operating from where the ARRL call sign locator says you are, we weren't all that far apart. I was in the South Mountain Reservation in S. Orange.

 
--
John - WA2FZW

Re: noise

Jerry Gaffke
 

My thought is that this is very weird.

I'd be checking all those connections around the antenna with an ohmmeter.
Make sure everything you think is connected is really connected.

If you want to try transmitting with the rig in such a questionable state, 
maybe start out with a 10v power supply into the IRF510 and increase it to 12v 
only if a watt or so is getting through to the dummy load.  If you do have a bad
connection at the antenna BNC, the high SWR could blow the IRF510.
Especially if you are feeding the IRF510 more than 12v.

Jerry



On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 07:21 am, John Sharpe wrote:
The breakthrough stopped (surprisingly) when I grounded the centre contact of the antenna input. 7mhz  SSB signals came through fine!
 

noise

John Sharpe
 

Hi all,

I moved my Bitx40 board to a smaller enclosure and somewhere along the line I ended up with massive breakthrough from AM stations.

This happened even with the VFO unplugged from the board.

The breakthrough stopped (surprisingly) when I grounded the centre contact of the antenna input. 7mhz  SSB signals came through fine!

I experimented with a couple of capacitors across the antenna input instead of the grounding, and finally used a 100pf capacitor.
Now the receive is great, no AM breakthrough at all and a reduction in noise. Signals still getting through fine.

Transmit seems ok (on a nearby receiver), but I haven’t tested power output.

I’m not sure how that all worked. I have Peter parker’s improved audio transmit mod. Also removed the 1uf capacitor between pins 1 and 8 of the LM386
and replaced with resistor/capacitor.

Any thoughts?

John

VK2VOL



Re: Bitx40 All done

pat griffin
 

My solution was to mask the portion of a piece of plexiglas where the lcd would go and paint the rest of the plexiglas black.  Then mount the lcd behind the previously-masked and now clear part.  The controls are mounted on the black part.  The advantage is no cutting.  The disadvantage is you have to remember it is plexiglas!!

73,

Pat AA4PG

Pat Griffin
http://www.cahabatechnology.com/aa4pg.html


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Sean Barton via Groups.Io <kb0ovd@...>
Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 7:54:41 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done
 
When I did mine someone recommended using a wood chisel to make the cutout.  I got a set of cheap chisels from Harbor Freight and clamped the panel between a thick piece of steel as a sacrificial backing and a straight edge.  I laid the flat part of the chisel along the straight edge and started making a series of shallow cuts until I made it through the material.  I was a little off on my measurements but otherwise I think it turned out pretty well.

Sean
KB0OVD


On Friday, July 7, 2017 7:42 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:


I've used a fret saw, too, and it works pretty well. I draw an outline and use C clamps to hold a small metal bar on the line to prevent the saw from drifting outside the cutout. That and a little work with a file does pretty well. It's still nice to have a bezel though.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Thursday, July 6, 2017 11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx40 All done

I always drill 4 holes on the inside of the window lines and use a hand fret saw to cut the center out.
Then you need some elbow grease to make the hole neat.

Now if you can get a bezel for the display, then you are in business!

At 07/07/2017, you wrote:
>Aperture all within display outline, so a file and a bit of judicious 'elbow-grease' would cure any uglies. All those extras! Well done!







Virus-free. www.avast.com