Date   
Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

James Lawrie
 

Hello,

Get good quality braid and use extra flux. I have done this to several shields and clones, use toothpick to put a little extra flux along pins and use a 40 watt iron. I start with a inch of braid along pins place iron on braid when solder starts to melt I slowly pull braid towards me while moving iron away. 

Usually works first time round and when done use alcohol to cleanup mess just don’t hold iron in one spot to long the plastic and pins can separate. It’s kinda a skill you have to learn but a little extra flux pull melted solder all the way through the hole.

James Lawrie

On Jan 24, 2018, at 15:44, John <passionfruit88@...> wrote:

Thank you for your replies.

I will check the frequencies of the Arduino and BFO with another transceiver.

I have tried to move cables around but this had no influence on the tones.

Please note that the strongest tone is at 5,426Hz and with more up to 15KHz. So if I go the audio filter way it will have to be pretty steep I suspect.

In desperation I have thought of cutting the traces of the BFO line and one of the two other oscillators and wire swap them around, then changing the sketch accordingly. Would this prove/disprove a coupling issue?

I could buy another Raduino, my only issue is then what if this is on the main board?

So if the frequency test does not show anything out of the ordinary I will buy a header-less Arduino Nano and attempt the swap.

How do you de-solder the arduino? Is a de-soldering braid effective?

To Bill: I used "Spectrum Analyzer"  from Rasberrywood (the free version seems fine for radio audio analysis).

All the best,


73, John (VK2ETA)

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

Jerry Gaffke
 

Weird that you have a range of frequencies between 5khz and 15khz, I would expect a single tone.
Will be interesting to know if you hear some warble when listening to the 16mhz Nano and the 12mhz bfo.

I doubt switching the clk0 bfo out of the si5351 with one of the other si5351 outputs would help.

You might try wrapping most of the Raduino and display in insulating tape and then tinfoil
to keep the Nano's 16mhz from radiating.
But leave the LM7805 regulator sticking out the side cuz it needs airflow to keep cool 

Ultimately, I think we may need either better shielding, or move the 16mhz clock frequency
of the Raduino to something else.  We've heard from two with this problem, are there others?



On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 01:44 pm, John wrote:
Thank you for your replies.

I will check the frequencies of the Arduino and BFO with another transceiver.

I have tried to move cables around but this had no influence on the tones.

Please note that the strongest tone is at 5,426Hz and with more up to 15KHz. So if I go the audio filter way it will have to be pretty steep I suspect.

In desperation I have thought of cutting the traces of the BFO line and one of the two other oscillators and wire swap them around, then changing the sketch accordingly. Would this prove/disprove a coupling issue?

I could buy another Raduino, my only issue is then what if this is on the main board?

So if the frequency test does not show anything out of the ordinary I will buy a header-less Arduino Nano and attempt the swap.

How do you de-solder the arduino? Is a de-soldering braid effective?

To Bill: I used "Spectrum Analyzer"  from Rasberrywood (the free version seems fine for radio audio analysis).

All the best,


73, John (VK2ETA)

Re: irf520 vs irf510

AA7GW
 

Pretty consistent info from all builders; I haven’t built up my uBitx yet because of this issue; looking at alternative PA drivers.  Good news is that my Bitx40 is working well despite a noisy receiver;

Sent from my iPhone
Gary AA7GW

On Jan 24, 2018, at 2:20 PM, Philip <philip.g7jur@...> wrote:

I have now started testing my uBITX. On transmit I am getting 12 Watts on 7MHz, 5 Watts on 14 MHz, and only 1 Watt on 28 MHz.

Philip G7JUR

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

John <passionfruit88@...>
 

Thank you for your replies.

I will check the frequencies of the Arduino and BFO with another transceiver.

I have tried to move cables around but this had no influence on the tones.

Please note that the strongest tone is at 5,426Hz and with more up to 15KHz. So if I go the audio filter way it will have to be pretty steep I suspect.

In desperation I have thought of cutting the traces of the BFO line and one of the two other oscillators and wire swap them around, then changing the sketch accordingly. Would this prove/disprove a coupling issue?

I could buy another Raduino, my only issue is then what if this is on the main board?

So if the frequency test does not show anything out of the ordinary I will buy a header-less Arduino Nano and attempt the swap.

How do you de-solder the arduino? Is a de-soldering braid effective?

To Bill: I used "Spectrum Analyzer"  from Rasberrywood (the free version seems fine for radio audio analysis).

All the best,


73, John (VK2ETA)

Re: BitX40 voltage booster implementation

David Eckhardt <davearea51a@...>
 

It's a switcher.  Beware of severe RFI!!

Dave - W0LEV


Virus-free. www.avast.com

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 8:03 PM, Vic WA4THR via Groups.Io <vhklein@...> wrote:
I had planned to include a switchable voltage booster in my BitX40 build to offer a choice of either 5w or 20w when external power permits by providing either 12v or 24v to the PA power line. I plan to use one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2587-DC-DC-Booster-Converter-Step-Up-Voltage-Regulator-3-5-30V-4-0-30V/181847059772?hash=item2a56eded3c:g:B-kAAOSwXf9ZoSKw

I am interested in if others have already implemented this. Some choices I see:
1. Run 12v power to the voltage booster whenever rig power is on, switch the PA to either 12v or 24v. (booster always on, added load?)
2. Wire the output of the booster to the PA power line, but switch 12v to either the PA line or the input of the booster (booster output capable of having voltage applied when input is zero?)

The booster notes just say the output must be higher than the input, but the allowable load specs look OK for SSB.

I am also working on getting 4X the heat sink on the PA transistor.

=Vic=




--
Dave - WØLEV
Just Let Darwin Work

Re: irf520 vs irf510

Philip
 

I have now started testing my uBITX. On transmit I am getting 12 Watts on 7MHz, 5 Watts on 14 MHz, and only 1 Watt on 28 MHz.

Philip G7JUR

Re: Perfect speaker grill

Keith VE7GDH
 

Peter G4NJJ wrote...

To get a tidy speaker grill on your EF01 enclosure
or what ever you are using have a rummage in the
kitchen utensil draw you may find the perfect template.
Good suggestion! I haven't done it myself, but another
option would be to print a pattern on paper and tape it
to the case and use that for a template for drilling
holes. I just came across a suggestion on eham.net to
use graph paper for the hole spacing too. I do like
your template idea though!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Re: Perfect speaker grill

philip yates
 

I used a square of Vero board and drilled pilot holes, then opened them out slightly.
Left with a square grid with staggered holes, seems to work well. Need a drop of enamel to finish
the bare metalwork off.

Phil - G7BZD

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 7:31 PM, Pete <peter.cousins51@...> wrote:

To get a tidy speaker grill on your EF01 enclosure or what ever you are using have a rummage in the kitchen utensil draw you may find the perfect template.  I used a plastic sifter lid as the holes were the size I wanted. Draw a center line where you want it positioned, line up the template, drill one hole on the outer circle, insert nut and bolt, drill hole opposite end of template, insert nut and bolt, now drill rest of holes in perfect place.  Hot glue speaker in place on underside of lid.


Peter G4NJJ


Re: AE7EU Top Level PCB Mod

 

I would go for a board or option 3. I would even go for a kit with nothing pre-installed.
--
David

 N8DAH
Kit-Projects.com

Re: AE7EU Top Level PCB Mod

Leland Lannoye
 

I would opt for the boards, with a list of parts, a provider list and/or parts provided like any other kit.  Would also be easiest for me.

Lee, WA9AOE

On 1/24/2018 3:45 PM, Diver Martin wrote:
Partial kit is about the only way I could sell it.  A full kit, toroids wound and installed, would simply cost too much, I don't think anyone would go for it.  

Right now, if everything works out, there are a few options.

1) Release the board files, schematic, design files/gerbers, BoM and let someone in china clone it, walk away.
2) Same as #1, but just sell bare PCB's.
3) Sell PCB's with all SMT components installed, and a baggie of TH parts, toroids, and couple feet of magnet wire.
4) Sell the entire thing fully assembled ($$$).

4 is unlikely to happen, period.  I would rather redesign the entire system and include the uBitx portion with the mods.  3 is possible, but it'd have to be done on kickstarter or something (5% overhead there), simply because I'm not willing to risk the $10k on a build of 100 boards, 2 is just work without any real benefit, almost the same as #1.

3 & 4 both will have board files/etc released, but not until after the first round ships out.


On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 12:28 PM, WX6XX via Groups.Io <enockson@...> wrote:
That looks really nice and thank you for putting in so much work!

Have you considered a partial kit?  I’ve seen a few where all of the SMD parts come mounted with everything else being through-hole.  That would both cut down on the assembly costs and avoid SMD construction for those who don’t want to do it.

Also, I am very interested in this and would order a board or partial kit.

Erik, WX6XX



--
Martin Held - AE7EU
http://ae7eu.com/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If there aren't any questions, then what is there to learn?

Virus-free. www.avg.com

Re: AE7EU Top Level PCB Mod

Diver Martin <diver.martin@...>
 

Partial kit is about the only way I could sell it.  A full kit, toroids wound and installed, would simply cost too much, I don't think anyone would go for it.  

Right now, if everything works out, there are a few options.

1) Release the board files, schematic, design files/gerbers, BoM and let someone in china clone it, walk away.
2) Same as #1, but just sell bare PCB's.
3) Sell PCB's with all SMT components installed, and a baggie of TH parts, toroids, and couple feet of magnet wire.
4) Sell the entire thing fully assembled ($$$).

4 is unlikely to happen, period.  I would rather redesign the entire system and include the uBitx portion with the mods.  3 is possible, but it'd have to be done on kickstarter or something (5% overhead there), simply because I'm not willing to risk the $10k on a build of 100 boards, 2 is just work without any real benefit, almost the same as #1.

3 & 4 both will have board files/etc released, but not until after the first round ships out.


On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 12:28 PM, WX6XX via Groups.Io <enockson@...> wrote:
That looks really nice and thank you for putting in so much work!

Have you considered a partial kit?  I’ve seen a few where all of the SMD parts come mounted with everything else being through-hole.  That would both cut down on the assembly costs and avoid SMD construction for those who don’t want to do it.

Also, I am very interested in this and would order a board or partial kit.

Erik, WX6XX




--
Martin Held - AE7EU
http://ae7eu.com/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If there aren't any questions, then what is there to learn?

Re: Perfect speaker grill

WERNER G VAVKEN <wernervavken@...>
 

Nice job!


73’s






WERNER G VAVKEN, WB6RAW
Cell: 408-375-6165






On Jan 24, 2018, at 11:31 AM, Pete <peter.cousins51@...> wrote:

To get a tidy speaker grill on your EF01 enclosure or what ever you are using have a rummage in the kitchen utensil draw you may find the perfect template.  I used a plastic sifter lid as the holes were the size I wanted. Draw a center line where you want it positioned, line up the template, drill one hole on the outer circle, insert nut and bolt, drill hole opposite end of template, insert nut and bolt, now drill rest of holes in perfect place.  Hot glue speaker in place on underside of lid.

Peter G4NJJ
<IMG_20180123_173737830.jpg><IMG_20180124_114443718.jpg><IMG_20180124_115408268.jpg>

Re: ant tuner

Keith VE7GDH
 

WB7DMX wrote...

what would be the good auto tuner to use with it..
I have the Elecraft T1 tuner. It has worked well for
me with a BITX40. Just talking or gently blowing into
the mic generates enough RF for it to quickly tune. I
haven't put the uBITX together yet, but I anticipate
it will work well with it when I'm not using a resonant
antenna. The T1 is good for 20W. I do have an 80M dipole
made up, but most of the time I'll be using the T1,
9:1 Un-Un and an end-fed wire antenna. I might cut some
wires a specific length so I don't need the tuner on
some bands.

http://www.elecraft.com/T1/T1.htm
http://www.elecraft.com/T1/T1_FAQ1.htm

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Re: AE7EU Top Level PCB Mod

WX6XX
 

That looks really nice and thank you for putting in so much work!

Have you considered a partial kit?  I’ve seen a few where all of the SMD parts come mounted with everything else being through-hole.  That would both cut down on the assembly costs and avoid SMD construction for those who don’t want to do it.

Also, I am very interested in this and would order a board or partial kit.

Erik, WX6XX

Case Alert

Joe Puma
 

https://www.rv3yf.store/product-page/case-for-trx-klopik-designed-for-lcd-16x2-wh1602

Seems to be out of stock right now but can work for uBitx nicely!


Joe
KD2NFC

Re: Perfect speaker grill

James Lawrie
 

Might help,

I use a hole saw and drill to cut speaker holes, I picked up my kit from Home Depot it’s made for cutting holes for door knob assemblies. Works best if you have a drill press. For grilles I use metal fan guards, like for pc fans, 80 thru 120 mm depending on speaker size and they are less than a couple bucks. BG Micro has quite a few different sizes.

Since I play with Tube Amps and Radios I have several chassis punches that help with holes for displays and such. I rough out then use nibbler and file.

Maybe this will help someone else,

James Lawrie

On Jan 24, 2018, at 13:59, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:

Thanks!  I was look for an easier way to lay out the speaker holes than using a ruler & a pencil with careful measurement!  I took a dead LCD display, carefully milled out the PCB behind the black metal frame (after removing the LCD's guts) and now use that as a template for milling an LCD window in either PCB, Aluminum or Plastic panels.  (Have to run the milling bit really slow on plastic or it gets all gummed up though - LOL.)

Jim - W0EB

------ Original Message ------
From: "Pete" <peter.cousins51@...>
Sent: 1/24/2018 1:31:35 PM
Subject: [BITX20] Perfect speaker grill

To get a tidy speaker grill on your EF01 enclosure or what ever you are using have a rummage in the kitchen utensil draw you may find the perfect template.  I used a plastic sifter lid as the holes were the size I wanted. Draw a center line where you want it positioned, line up the template, drill one hole on the outer circle, insert nut and bolt, drill hole opposite end of template, insert nut and bolt, now drill rest of holes in perfect place.  Hot glue speaker in place on underside of lid.


Peter G4NJJ

Re: audio spectrum analyzer in Linux

Rod Davis
 

The LINUX program JAAA is an excellent audio spectrum analyzer..all the features you could want.

Rod KM6SN


On 01/24/2018 11:10 AM, Dave Bottom wrote:
For Audio Spectrum Analysis I use RTA Audio.  
There is a Free version and a inexpensive purchase version for both iOS and Android.
I've found it very useful.

Dave WI6R

On Wed, Jan 24, 2018 at 5:42 AM, Bill Bates <billy.bates@...> wrote:
I would be interested in recommended android apps for audio spectrum analysis, there are lots out there but what is a good one (preferably free 😊) God bless, Bill. G6ATO

From: John
Sent: ‎24/‎01/‎2018 08:54
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband

Hello group,

I need help after spending over a week trying to figure out an issue I have with my uBitx. 

First let me thank Farhan and team for such a great kit. I have built my uBitx around a manpack configuration (External side mounted heatsink, no connection at the back, room for an autotuner).

The issue I have is that I have strong audio tones inside and outside the passband on receive, typically up to 15khz.

I have attached an audio recording and took some audio spectrum snapshots made by placing the phone's microphone near the uBitx speaker. Using this method the dB value of the different FFT frequencies need to be taken with a grain of salt since there are not measured with an oscilloscope. Nevertheless the relative value are of interest here.

As you can see in the spectrums the tones are often near or above the level of the decoded signal which makes them impossible to ignore.

I have observed the following:

1. The tones frequency DO NOT change significantly with tuning up or down, or going through the menu items except when passing over the "CW Speed" option (this can be heard in the recording).

2. Changes in tones frequency DO occur when: 
   2.1 The unit BFO frequency is changed (the most significant variation)
   2.2 When the calibration is changed (this changes the BFO frequency too)
   2.3 When I touch the pins of the SI5351 crystal
   2.4 When I touch the pins of the Arduino's crystal

I have re-done the factory alignment and BFO adjustment several times and always come back to a +16 alignment number and a BFO frequency of 11,996.8Khz.

I have checked or tried the following:

A. Three different power supplies (one Lipo direct, one Lipo through a filtered 12V UBEC, a noise free 13.8V commercial power supply). No change except a small shift in tone frequency).

B. Checked the voltage on the Radiuno: 5.01VDC.

C. Added capacitors from the Radiuno 5V rail to ground (470uF, 0.1uf mica, no change), power supply rail to ground (470uF, no change), 1nF between casing of Arduino crystal to ground (produces a shift in tone, but no reduction in amplitude).

D. I tried a modified software where I would shift the frequencies of both the first and second oscillators by the same amount, thereby leaving the received frequency the same. The result was no change in tones frequency. So only a BFO frequency change produces a shift in tones. 

C. I noticed that when I shift the tones frequency (through BFO adjustment for example), the amplitude of the tones seem to follow the filters passband. This would indicate that they are produced before the sideband filter.

So I have thought of some mixing of the Arduino's crystal frequency with the BFO's one, but this seems to be contradicted by the fact that going over some menu items changes SOME tones.

Needless to say I am out of ideas right now, so your input is welcomed.

Best regards,

John (VK2ETA)





--
73 Dave WI6R

BitX40 voltage booster implementation

Vic WA4THR
 

I had planned to include a switchable voltage booster in my BitX40 build to offer a choice of either 5w or 20w when external power permits by providing either 12v or 24v to the PA power line. I plan to use one of these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2587-DC-DC-Booster-Converter-Step-Up-Voltage-Regulator-3-5-30V-4-0-30V/181847059772?hash=item2a56eded3c:g:B-kAAOSwXf9ZoSKw

I am interested in if others have already implemented this. Some choices I see:
1. Run 12v power to the voltage booster whenever rig power is on, switch the PA to either 12v or 24v. (booster always on, added load?)
2. Wire the output of the booster to the PA power line, but switch 12v to either the PA line or the input of the booster (booster output capable of having voltage applied when input is zero?)

The booster notes just say the output must be higher than the input, but the allowable load specs look OK for SSB.

I am also working on getting 4X the heat sink on the PA transistor.

=Vic=

Re: Perfect speaker grill

Jim Sheldon
 

Thanks!  I was look for an easier way to lay out the speaker holes than using a ruler & a pencil with careful measurement!  I took a dead LCD display, carefully milled out the PCB behind the black metal frame (after removing the LCD's guts) and now use that as a template for milling an LCD window in either PCB, Aluminum or Plastic panels.  (Have to run the milling bit really slow on plastic or it gets all gummed up though - LOL.)

Jim - W0EB

------ Original Message ------
From: "Pete" <peter.cousins51@...>
Sent: 1/24/2018 1:31:35 PM
Subject: [BITX20] Perfect speaker grill

To get a tidy speaker grill on your EF01 enclosure or what ever you are using have a rummage in the kitchen utensil draw you may find the perfect template.  I used a plastic sifter lid as the holes were the size I wanted. Draw a center line where you want it positioned, line up the template, drill one hole on the outer circle, insert nut and bolt, drill hole opposite end of template, insert nut and bolt, now drill rest of holes in perfect place.  Hot glue speaker in place on underside of lid.


Peter G4NJJ

Re: k2zia w8tee tft lcd

MVS Sarma
 

On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 1:07 AM, Richard E Neese <kb3vgw@...> wrote:

Just where its located and faster getting it

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 1:07 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] k2zia w8tee tft lcd

 

Probably, but why spend 2x the price over the one I told you about?

 

Jack, W8TEE

 

 


Virus-free. www.avast.com