Date   
Re: Trustworthy 2N2222A?

Ted
 

Rather than swap the 6 predriver and drivers with them, go for three of these & a spare - https://www.ebay.com/itm/401310061467.  Better output, especially upstairs on 20 meters and up. You only need one 2N5109 for each position that would have taken two 2N2222's. 

Of course you'll still need to add a parallel 20-ohm resistor to each emitter bias resistor to see the full benefit.


- Ted
   K3RTA

Re: Trustworthy 2N2222A?

Ken
 

Hi Rob

If they come from China, don't bother. I went this same thing last spring and they were all duds. You're better off getting them from a reliable source.

73

Ken VA3ABN

On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 3:10 PM Rob French (KC4UPR) <robert@...> wrote:
Hey guys,  I'm looking to get some 2N2222A transistors for my uBITX mods.  Does the following appear a trustworthy source?

2N2222A - Bipolar (BJT) Single Transistor, NPN, 40 V, 300 MHz, 1.2 W, 800 mA, 100 hFE (Pack of 50) (2N2222A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QK2QR8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yGinEb6V8FVW4

Otherwise,  I was planning on the $2 each ones from Central at Mouser. 

Trustworthy 2N2222A?

Rob French (KC4UPR)
 

Hey guys,  I'm looking to get some 2N2222A transistors for my uBITX mods.  Does the following appear a trustworthy source?

2N2222A - Bipolar (BJT) Single Transistor, NPN, 40 V, 300 MHz, 1.2 W, 800 mA, 100 hFE (Pack of 50) (2N2222A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QK2QR8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yGinEb6V8FVW4

Otherwise,  I was planning on the $2 each ones from Central at Mouser. 

Re: Made Mods to V3 uBitx - no longer transmitting #ubitx-help #v3

Michael Shreeve
 

And, also, if I were to build the same rf probe you decide to build, then, since I have an un-modified rv3 I can measure some of these rf voltages. We could compare what we see.

Re: Ubitx V^ just assembled, VFO Doesnt Work, no receive/audio

stefan@...
 

Hey Evan, yes I am using the mic that was included in the kit, and will definitely try a blank 3.5mm plug to see if the mic is the issue. To test the speaker, you're saying to take a 3.5mm male to male and plug one end in the headphone jack and then touch the tip(or is it ring? Not sure how it's wired) to one of the speaker posts and see if i hear audio. If I do, I have a bigger problem somewhere on the board, otherwise if I dont it is either the speaker or the ground to the speaker? Or if I cut one end off of a male to male and hooked it directly up to the speaker, it would tell me definitely that it is the speaker. I will try tonight when I get home. I think I have a good shot at getting on the air tonight thanks to everyone on this thread. I will make sure to have a dummy load on it. The other times it transmitted I had an antenna hooked up to it that showed resonant(on my NanoVNA) on the frequency I had it set to, but I will play it safe with the dummy load. Out of curiosity, how long would transmitting with no antenna(or badly tuned antenna) take to damage the radio? Instantly? A Couple seconds?

Re: Overvoltage spike killed my V4

John Faivre
 

Thanks I’ll try that
--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: Overvoltage spike killed my V4

Gordon Gibby
 

One time I picked up an extraordinarily expensive, custom piece of very very complicated technology for an alphabet agency located near Washington, and requiring top secret security clearance to work there.   I was a college intern working on my first degree in electrical engineering. 

Plugged the new device in, turned it on and there was a sound similar to popcorn popping, which lasted only about five seconds. 

Opened it up, and there were a little black plastic tops of integrated circuits scattered everywhere— almost everyone of them had completely blown up, exploded!!!!    I could see my salary for the next 10 years going down the drain.....  my knees were weak.  

Took a look at how they had wired the AC powerline input, and discovered a physical short to the +5 volt line..... When you pay five or six figures for a piece of equipment, you would think that they could build it better than that, no?




On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:23, Gordon Gibby via Groups.Io <docvacuumtubes@...> wrote:

Haul out your voltmeter, and start measuring the voltage across the emitter resistor of every stage active in receive, and then every stage active in transmit.

Then use Ohms law to calculate the current through each transistor (I=V/R)

Somewhere way back there, it has been published here for many of the stages, but in general it should be a few milliamps on each stage.  If it is zero when the stage should be conducting, that gives you a clue that the transistor may be open.   If the current is high, then measure the collector voltage and see if the stage is completely saturated.  (collector voltage very close to emitter  voltage). That might be a shorted or damaged transistor. 

Can’t remember if those versions have integrated circuit audio amp, however poking around with a crystal earphone would let you hear the signal at earlier stages

Gathering information is the first part of diagnosis.    And while you’re at it, measure and see if the 5 V regulator still regulates.  

Some of the relay control transistors may have gotten fried also. 

Once you get started, you’ll get a lot better at this quickly

Not the end of the world usually.   

On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:15, John Faivre <wa9sgd@...> wrote:



My power supply regulator failed. The crowbar circuit kicked in at 15v and blew the fast blow fuse, but my board is dead. The voltage could have gotten as high as 27v before the fuse blew.

The 2 amp fuse blows as soon as it is powered on. I don’t see low resistance on either the main or final power circuits. I’ve meter checked all the transistors, diodes, an caps.

I have disconnected everything from the main board and it still blows. The Raduino still works if powered from the USB port.

Anyone have an idea how I might trouble shoot this?

I May be in the market for a V4 or V5 board, if anyone had one to sell.

--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: Overvoltage spike killed my V4

MVS Sarma
 

Spike as you rightly thought. Otherwise the diodes might not go so easily. replace 7805 on raduino and electrolytic caps on power line.
take dmm and power up with 12V battery , like what we use in computer ups, or,  2 amps  12v adaptor and start Rx testing.
 once RX works in any band , we can slowly advance,.
all the best.
sarma vu3zmv


On Fri, Jan 31, 2020 at 11:45 PM John Faivre <wa9sgd@...> wrote:

My power supply regulator failed. The crowbar circuit kicked in at 15v and blew the fast blow fuse, but my board is dead. The voltage could have gotten as high as 27v before the fuse blew.

The 2 amp fuse blows as soon as it is powered on. I don’t see low resistance on either the main or final power circuits. I’ve meter checked all the transistors, diodes, an caps.

I have disconnected everything from the main board and it still blows. The Raduino still works if powered from the USB port.

Anyone have an idea how I might trouble shoot this?

I May be in the market for a V4 or V5 board, if anyone had one to sell.

--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: Overvoltage spike killed my V4

Gordon Gibby
 

If you can’t get it to run at normal voltage because it blows the fuse, either drop the voltage or stick a resistor in series, a 12 V lightbulb is a reasonable choice


On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:23, Gordon Gibby via Groups.Io <docvacuumtubes@...> wrote:

Haul out your voltmeter, and start measuring the voltage across the emitter resistor of every stage active in receive, and then every stage active in transmit.

Then use Ohms law to calculate the current through each transistor (I=V/R)

Somewhere way back there, it has been published here for many of the stages, but in general it should be a few milliamps on each stage.  If it is zero when the stage should be conducting, that gives you a clue that the transistor may be open.   If the current is high, then measure the collector voltage and see if the stage is completely saturated.  (collector voltage very close to emitter  voltage). That might be a shorted or damaged transistor. 

Can’t remember if those versions have integrated circuit audio amp, however poking around with a crystal earphone would let you hear the signal at earlier stages

Gathering information is the first part of diagnosis.    And while you’re at it, measure and see if the 5 V regulator still regulates.  

Some of the relay control transistors may have gotten fried also. 

Once you get started, you’ll get a lot better at this quickly

Not the end of the world usually.   

On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:15, John Faivre <wa9sgd@...> wrote:



My power supply regulator failed. The crowbar circuit kicked in at 15v and blew the fast blow fuse, but my board is dead. The voltage could have gotten as high as 27v before the fuse blew.

The 2 amp fuse blows as soon as it is powered on. I don’t see low resistance on either the main or final power circuits. I’ve meter checked all the transistors, diodes, an caps.

I have disconnected everything from the main board and it still blows. The Raduino still works if powered from the USB port.

Anyone have an idea how I might trouble shoot this?

I May be in the market for a V4 or V5 board, if anyone had one to sell.

--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: Overvoltage spike killed my V4

Gordon Gibby
 

Haul out your voltmeter, and start measuring the voltage across the emitter resistor of every stage active in receive, and then every stage active in transmit.

Then use Ohms law to calculate the current through each transistor (I=V/R)

Somewhere way back there, it has been published here for many of the stages, but in general it should be a few milliamps on each stage.  If it is zero when the stage should be conducting, that gives you a clue that the transistor may be open.   If the current is high, then measure the collector voltage and see if the stage is completely saturated.  (collector voltage very close to emitter  voltage). That might be a shorted or damaged transistor. 

Can’t remember if those versions have integrated circuit audio amp, however poking around with a crystal earphone would let you hear the signal at earlier stages

Gathering information is the first part of diagnosis.    And while you’re at it, measure and see if the 5 V regulator still regulates.  

Some of the relay control transistors may have gotten fried also. 

Once you get started, you’ll get a lot better at this quickly

Not the end of the world usually.   

On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:15, John Faivre <wa9sgd@...> wrote:



My power supply regulator failed. The crowbar circuit kicked in at 15v and blew the fast blow fuse, but my board is dead. The voltage could have gotten as high as 27v before the fuse blew.

The 2 amp fuse blows as soon as it is powered on. I don’t see low resistance on either the main or final power circuits. I’ve meter checked all the transistors, diodes, an caps.

I have disconnected everything from the main board and it still blows. The Raduino still works if powered from the USB port.

Anyone have an idea how I might trouble shoot this?

I May be in the market for a V4 or V5 board, if anyone had one to sell.

--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: Thank you HF Signals

 

I agree with Dennis on the packing it is much better than the v3 I ordered last year.
I also did not receive a  DHL shipping notice as I have on the past shipments.
I ordered my V6 basic kit  on Jan. 2 and received it on Jan. 31, not bad as they were on Holiday till  Jan 20th.
The waybill indicated it was sent on Jan 27th, not bad from halfway areound the world..
Looking forward to getting it up and running...

Jeff
WA1WXL

Overvoltage spike killed my V4

John Faivre
 

My power supply regulator failed. The crowbar circuit kicked in at 15v and blew the fast blow fuse, but my board is dead. The voltage could have gotten as high as 27v before the fuse blew.

The 2 amp fuse blows as soon as it is powered on. I don’t see low resistance on either the main or final power circuits. I’ve meter checked all the transistors, diodes, an caps.

I have disconnected everything from the main board and it still blows. The Raduino still works if powered from the USB port.

Anyone have an idea how I might trouble shoot this?

I May be in the market for a V4 or V5 board, if anyone had one to sell.

--
John Faivre WA9SGD

Re: : #V6 software issues help please #v6

Gordon Gibby
 

This all sounds great, lots and lots of people making fantastic improvements.   


On Jan 31, 2020, at 13:01, WB0WQS <WB0WQS@...> wrote:


Good Job, Reed.  Keying using the built-in keyer is perfect!  After you adjusted the duration.  I will post a short video some time today on Facebook after my Iphone charges..  thank you!
I called cq on 14.060 and didn't get a call, but I was reported on the reverse beacon on 14.060 once I calibrated the frequency...  not bad for a 200 dollar rig.  73. 
P.S... I did make a ssb qso on one of the nets on 20, he said my audio was a bit bassy. but that is either that Baofoeng mic, or my BFO adjustments. 

On Thu, Jan 30, 2020 at 10:31 PM Reed N <greenkid336600+groupsio@...> wrote:
Hi WB0WQS,

Hopefully the attached hex fixes inter-element timing! It appears that it was only 1/10th the duration it was supposed to be.


Reed

Re: : #V6 software issues help please #v6

WB0WQS
 

Good Job, Reed.  Keying using the built-in keyer is perfect!  After you adjusted the duration.  I will post a short video some time today on Facebook after my Iphone charges..  thank you!
I called cq on 14.060 and didn't get a call, but I was reported on the reverse beacon on 14.060 once I calibrated the frequency...  not bad for a 200 dollar rig.  73. 
P.S... I did make a ssb qso on one of the nets on 20, he said my audio was a bit bassy. but that is either that Baofoeng mic, or my BFO adjustments. 

On Thu, Jan 30, 2020 at 10:31 PM Reed N <greenkid336600+groupsio@...> wrote:
Hi WB0WQS,

Hopefully the attached hex fixes inter-element timing! It appears that it was only 1/10th the duration it was supposed to be.


Reed

Re: Amp draw on V6 and power connector #v6

Curt
 

Zac

good idea.  the turn-key case for v3-v5 from amateur radiokits.in includes a fuse holder in the positive line.  the PS I use with my uBitx is rated at around 3 amps.  lots of opinions on fuse size, its mostly to keep things from catching fire and maybe reducing damage.  if you can risk a 5A fuse try it, otherwise go a little larger.  the center conductor is traditionally positive, and the negative terminal is directly connected to the antenna connector outer conductor (when properly assembled). 

mobile installations typically use 2 identical fuses in each lead back to the battery, relating to complexity of automotive electrical flow.  for a direct connection in the shack, only one fuse is needed when you don't have any other alternate paths to form a circuit. 

I suggest reviewing the instructions and figures again.  also confirm connections using a DVM in the ohmmeter setting to measure continuity in your wiring - don't trust you eyes alone. 

enjoy the international fellowship around these rigs. 

73 Curt wb8yyy

Re: Ubitx V^ just assembled, VFO Doesnt Work, no receive/audio

Evan Hand
 

I went back and looked again at the v6 pdf schematic.  The audio jacks are at the bottom, my miss.

So the most likely culprit is J3.  The quick test would be to connect the internal speaker to the earphone jack with one of the supplied 3.5 mm plugs ( I assume they are still providing at least one for the key jack) to verify that the speaker is good.  If the speaker checks out, then I is most likely the jack.

As to the most recent mic/PTT problem, i would also check the same area of the main board for any shorts, bad solder joints, or open connections.  They have been some startup issues with the new version, so a bad board could have gotten through the tests.

Stefan,
Are you using the supplied mic with the kit (the Baofeng look alike from the pictures)?  

You could see if the rig goes into TX if you plug in an open (no connections) 3.5 mm plug.  It would trip briefly while plugging in, but should drop back into RX when fully inserted.  Be sure to have a dummy load or tuned antenna connected to protect the finals.

FWIW
73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: Ubitx V^ just assembled, VFO Doesnt Work, no receive/audio

Reed N
 

Hi Evan,

I only have two boards with my full kit - the radio staging, and the raduino. There is a third board attached to the screen, but that's a COTS part, similar to how there's no schematic for the nano's board. Maybe I'm not understanding what you're asking?


Reed

Re: Ubitx V^ just assembled, VFO Doesnt Work, no receive/audio

stefan@...
 

Thanks Evan, this is pretty much the info I was looking for. The microphone issue came up after I plugged the encoder switch to the correct spot on the raduino, it didn't do that originally which lead me to believe it might have been related to the raduino itself. I will jumper the headphones to the speaker, possibly change the speaker and hopefully get the audio working. Then I will tackle the mic issue by checking that theres no short on the 3.5mm jack, possibly replacing it and go from there. 

Re: Ubitx V^ just assembled, VFO Doesnt Work, no receive/audio

Reed N
 

It won't run as-is, but they've been making their own modifications to the code, so if you grab their build, things should still be better than the stock software that it shipped with.


Reed

Re: Amp draw on V6 and power connector #v6

Wayne Leake
 

 I don't know what the max current draw is.
 Regarding fuses, it is suggested to use one rated at 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times the current rating.
 Regarding the DC input jack, it is normal to use the center pin as positive. Beware, some power supplies use the center pin as negative. You need to be sure and not use one of those. Reversed polarity can destroy many items in a hurry, with a few exceptions. Those mainly being items designed to use either polarity, or even AC.
 I had a printer buffer like that.
 Also, the power supply for the BITX20 I am building is like that. They use a full wave diode bridge at the power input.
 Be aware that many Wall Warts are NOT regulated. I tested a bunch that I have, and found that some are a higher voltage with little or no load.
 Hope this helps.
 Wayne WA2YNE


On Fri, Jan 31, 2020, 10:29 AM Zac Treadwell <ztread01@...> wrote:
Hello,
I should be getting my new v6 today (sitting at my parents house, keeps the porch pirates away) and I would like to put fuses on the main power lines into the radio.  I was wondering what was the max amperage the radio draws so I can get the appropriate size fuses.

Second, looking at the assembly notes, I didn't see how to wire the power connector.  I take it the center pin is Positive with the outer negative.  Just want to confirm it. 

Thank you again and I hope to get this thing assembled this weekend or next, I've been enjoying reading everyones post and look forward to contribue.

73's
Zac - W8ZAC