Date   
Re: Antenna

Howard Fidel
 

Gordon:
Thanks for the feedback. Back in my youth, I had a 15 meter 3 element yagi at one QTH and a 3 element 15 meter cubical quad at another QTH, and 15 meters was wide open. The house the quad was on was a 20' wide attached row house. The antenna was more then 20' on the diagonal so I always parked it so it didn't hang over the neighbors when I wasn't on the air. Never had a complaint about the antenna. Everyone had over the air antennas for TV back then, so I did get 1 or 2 complaints about interference, but never anything about my antenna. I'll post a picture later.

Howard

On 4/30/2018 10:44 AM, Gordon Gibby wrote:

fan dipoles work fine and I've used them several times in my life, as did the fellow who mentored  me in WINLINK gateway construction --- good performance without a tuner!  By all means, post some photos!!!


My current favorite however is either a non-resonant dipole (140 feet is nice) fed with 300 ohm window line (harder to see) to a 1:1 or 4:1 balun (whichever works best) and then an LDG auto-tuner.    These have done 2+ years' service at my automated WiNLINK gateway(s).  


An alternative has been an off center fed style with balun works either in the center, or after a length of 300 ohm window line to a more protectected location....and then the auto-tuner.   


With both types there is often one frequency band that is tough to match --- and I stick in a coax-based trap (or two) in the antenna line tuned to just the difficult frequency, to change the effective length around there....and then it can tune basically any frequency from 3 - 30 MHz.   That sort of performance is necessary for the SHARES DHS winlink gateway system.


Antennnas are a hoot, and there are a zillion ways to succeed at it, so more power to you!!!!


Before I bought the 5-acre property in my gated HOA semi-rural community (target practice can frequency be heard around us) I got them to agree that a wire antenna was acceptable.   They basically didn't want huge antenna towers and huge yagi's.    Since I prefer thin little dipoles, they can hardly see mine.    Then I made a big thing about how they are part of a government backup communications system and also to help ships at sea --- and I've never heard a single complaint.   Another ham moved into the neighborhood and immediately threw up an end-fed long wire with an auto-tuner and is having a blast, just like me.   


Many people have published ways to hide antennas --- anything from bird houses (my neighbor actually put up a Bue Martin birdhouse that would be PERFECT) to invisible wires inside trees.  


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Howard Fidel <sonic1@...>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 10:16 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] Antenna
 
At my QTH we have restrictions on antenna height, no more then 7' above the roof line. My property is such that I did not have a place to put up a 40 meter dipole. I was hoping to put a multiband dipole. To achieve this, I combined two different antenna designs I found online. For the 40 meter part I adopted W5VM's shorty 40 design, which is under 38' long. From the same coax I added additional dipoles for the 20 15 and 10 meter bands using a modification the classic fan construction. 
The antenna is hung from the top of my chimney, about 25' of the ground to a tree on the property edge mounted at a point about 7' lower then the chimney mounted end. There were 2 surprises when I tested this. According to W5VM, the loading coil should be tapped 3 turns from the center for the drive point.  I designed the coil so I could test this tap, and 1 turn more and 1 turn less. All of these had SWRs over 2 to 1. Since it was easy to try, I moved the drive point to the end of the coil, and the SWR came down to an acceptable 1.6 to 1. The second surprise is that the SWR on the high end of the 80 meter band is also quite usable at as low as 1.5 to 1. 
The other unorthodox thing that I did was use 75 ohm RG6 coax, which if very inexpensive, I picked up 100' for $6. My design notes are attached on a spreadsheet. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.
Howard


Re: Antenna

iz oos
 

I would put a magnetic loop like the MFJ and rotate it with a TV rotator. I believe that in these conditions it would work better (especially for the radiation pattern) than a dipole so close to the roof. 73 Franco


Il 30/apr/2018 16:44, "Gordon Gibby" <ggibby@...> ha scritto:

fan dipoles work fine and I've used them several times in my life, as did the fellow who mentored  me in WINLINK gateway construction --- good performance without a tuner!  By all means, post some photos!!!


My current favorite however is either a non-resonant dipole (140 feet is nice) fed with 300 ohm window line (harder to see) to a 1:1 or 4:1 balun (whichever works best) and then an LDG auto-tuner.    These have done 2+ years' service at my automated WiNLINK gateway(s).  


An alternative has been an off center fed style with balun works either in the center, or after a length of 300 ohm window line to a more protectected location....and then the auto-tuner.   


With both types there is often one frequency band that is tough to match --- and I stick in a coax-based trap (or two) in the antenna line tuned to just the difficult frequency, to change the effective length around there....and then it can tune basically any frequency from 3 - 30 MHz.   That sort of performance is necessary for the SHARES DHS winlink gateway system.


Antennnas are a hoot, and there are a zillion ways to succeed at it, so more power to you!!!!


Before I bought the 5-acre property in my gated HOA semi-rural community (target practice can frequency be heard around us) I got them to agree that a wire antenna was acceptable.   They basically didn't want huge antenna towers and huge yagi's.    Since I prefer thin little dipoles, they can hardly see mine.    Then I made a big thing about how they are part of a government backup communications system and also to help ships at sea --- and I've never heard a single complaint.   Another ham moved into the neighborhood and immediately threw up an end-fed long wire with an auto-tuner and is having a blast, just like me.   


Many people have published ways to hide antennas --- anything from bird houses (my neighbor actually put up a Bue Martin birdhouse that would be PERFECT) to invisible wires inside trees.  


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Howard Fidel <sonic1@...>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 10:16 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] Antenna
 
At my QTH we have restrictions on antenna height, no more then 7' above the roof line. My property is such that I did not have a place to put up a 40 meter dipole. I was hoping to put a multiband dipole. To achieve this, I combined two different antenna designs I found online. For the 40 meter part I adopted W5VM's shorty 40 design, which is under 38' long. From the same coax I added additional dipoles for the 20 15 and 10 meter bands using a modification the classic fan construction. 
The antenna is hung from the top of my chimney, about 25' of the ground to a tree on the property edge mounted at a point about 7' lower then the chimney mounted end. There were 2 surprises when I tested this. According to W5VM, the loading coil should be tapped 3 turns from the center for the drive point.  I designed the coil so I could test this tap, and 1 turn more and 1 turn less. All of these had SWRs over 2 to 1. Since it was easy to try, I moved the drive point to the end of the coil, and the SWR came down to an acceptable 1.6 to 1. The second surprise is that the SWR on the high end of the 80 meter band is also quite usable at as low as 1.5 to 1. 
The other unorthodox thing that I did was use 75 ohm RG6 coax, which if very inexpensive, I picked up 100' for $6. My design notes are attached on a spreadsheet. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.
Howard

Re: Antenna

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

fan dipoles work fine and I've used them several times in my life, as did the fellow who mentored  me in WINLINK gateway construction --- good performance without a tuner!  By all means, post some photos!!!


My current favorite however is either a non-resonant dipole (140 feet is nice) fed with 300 ohm window line (harder to see) to a 1:1 or 4:1 balun (whichever works best) and then an LDG auto-tuner.    These have done 2+ years' service at my automated WiNLINK gateway(s).  


An alternative has been an off center fed style with balun works either in the center, or after a length of 300 ohm window line to a more protectected location....and then the auto-tuner.   


With both types there is often one frequency band that is tough to match --- and I stick in a coax-based trap (or two) in the antenna line tuned to just the difficult frequency, to change the effective length around there....and then it can tune basically any frequency from 3 - 30 MHz.   That sort of performance is necessary for the SHARES DHS winlink gateway system.


Antennnas are a hoot, and there are a zillion ways to succeed at it, so more power to you!!!!


Before I bought the 5-acre property in my gated HOA semi-rural community (target practice can frequency be heard around us) I got them to agree that a wire antenna was acceptable.   They basically didn't want huge antenna towers and huge yagi's.    Since I prefer thin little dipoles, they can hardly see mine.    Then I made a big thing about how they are part of a government backup communications system and also to help ships at sea --- and I've never heard a single complaint.   Another ham moved into the neighborhood and immediately threw up an end-fed long wire with an auto-tuner and is having a blast, just like me.   


Many people have published ways to hide antennas --- anything from bird houses (my neighbor actually put up a Bue Martin birdhouse that would be PERFECT) to invisible wires inside trees.  


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Howard Fidel <sonic1@...>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 10:16 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] Antenna
 
At my QTH we have restrictions on antenna height, no more then 7' above the roof line. My property is such that I did not have a place to put up a 40 meter dipole. I was hoping to put a multiband dipole. To achieve this, I combined two different antenna designs I found online. For the 40 meter part I adopted W5VM's shorty 40 design, which is under 38' long. From the same coax I added additional dipoles for the 20 15 and 10 meter bands using a modification the classic fan construction. 
The antenna is hung from the top of my chimney, about 25' of the ground to a tree on the property edge mounted at a point about 7' lower then the chimney mounted end. There were 2 surprises when I tested this. According to W5VM, the loading coil should be tapped 3 turns from the center for the drive point.  I designed the coil so I could test this tap, and 1 turn more and 1 turn less. All of these had SWRs over 2 to 1. Since it was easy to try, I moved the drive point to the end of the coil, and the SWR came down to an acceptable 1.6 to 1. The second surprise is that the SWR on the high end of the 80 meter band is also quite usable at as low as 1.5 to 1. 
The other unorthodox thing that I did was use 75 ohm RG6 coax, which if very inexpensive, I picked up 100' for $6. My design notes are attached on a spreadsheet. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.
Howard

Re: KMK ver 2017 pcb update

 

Hello,
With what program can I open this schematic files?

Antenna

Howard Fidel
 

At my QTH we have restrictions on antenna height, no more then 7' above the roof line. My property is such that I did not have a place to put up a 40 meter dipole. I was hoping to put a multiband dipole. To achieve this, I combined two different antenna designs I found online. For the 40 meter part I adopted W5VM's shorty 40 design, which is under 38' long. From the same coax I added additional dipoles for the 20 15 and 10 meter bands using a modification the classic fan construction. 
The antenna is hung from the top of my chimney, about 25' of the ground to a tree on the property edge mounted at a point about 7' lower then the chimney mounted end. There were 2 surprises when I tested this. According to W5VM, the loading coil should be tapped 3 turns from the center for the drive point.  I designed the coil so I could test this tap, and 1 turn more and 1 turn less. All of these had SWRs over 2 to 1. Since it was easy to try, I moved the drive point to the end of the coil, and the SWR came down to an acceptable 1.6 to 1. The second surprise is that the SWR on the high end of the 80 meter band is also quite usable at as low as 1.5 to 1. 
The other unorthodox thing that I did was use 75 ohm RG6 coax, which if very inexpensive, I picked up 100' for $6. My design notes are attached on a spreadsheet. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.
Howard

Re: UBITX Assemly Wiki Page #ubitx

Jim Sheldon
 

I checked against the schematic V3 and measured from the audio connector's pins to the proper points on the components.  The volume control wiring in your diagram is wrong.  The green wire IS ground and connected to the proper point on the volume control as shown.  The yellow and orange wires are switched.  the pins of the connector from left to right as viewed from the front of the board are (verified with an ohm meter)
1 = microphone input - Purple wire
2 = microphone ground - Blue wire
3 = volume control ground - Green wire
4 = volume control high - Orange wire
5 = volume control mid (center) - Yellow wire
6 = ground - Red wire
7 = speaker high - Brown wire
8 = ground - Black wire

I have all of HF Signals version except Version 4.  The above wiring is correct and unchanged on the 3 version 1 boards I have 116/1, 212/1, 324/1, 933/2 and now 133/5.  I don't have either version 3 or version 4 boards but I hardly think the wiring to the audio plug would have changed for those 2 versions and then changed back in version 5.

The "Wiring Up" diagram that's currently on the HF Signals website has recently been changed and appears to be correct with respect to both the CW Jack and the Audio Plug.

Jim - W0EB

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Alex Fleak (KD0YTE)
 

Mark me down for one

73
Alex Fleak
KD0YTE.

On Thu, Apr 26, 2018 at 9:32 PM, Kees T <windy10605@...> wrote:
Got the "OK" from Don and Ion so let me see what I can come up with and the schematics and board layout look fine to me. The only thing I would change is make C7 a 1uF cap. This will be a SMT board

73 Kees K5BCQ


Re: Bitx20A bandspread

KM4TRT
 

Hi Leonard,
I was having trouble with that setup until talking to you. I had the mvam 109 but didnt remove the zener because I thought it was already at 9 volts. After talking to you, I removed the resistor and replaced the zener with a 7809 and now it 
band spreads from 14.15 to 14.37+(I don't do code but I know to remove or add turns on the coil if i want to).  Great Hack-thanks for your help.  I hated that tuning cap.
Andy KM4TRT

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Bo Barry <wn4ghv@...>
 

Cheapskate only has one chair! 😂 I have two.

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Jack, W8TEE
 

Wonder how much is tied up in this shack (W9EVT)?

Inline image

Jack, W8TEE



On Monday, April 30, 2018, 8:59:02 AM EDT, Bo Barry <wn4ghv@...> wrote:


It's an international fact that hams are called a cheap gang, but when you go into their shack you are usually impressed with their vast collection. My memories of constantly repairing equipment for hams and only getting a thank you kinda confirms the title tho.  So let's just say we always get the biggest bang for our bucks. Bo W4GHV since '54

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Bo Barry <wn4ghv@...>
 

It's an international fact that hams are called a cheap gang, but when you go into their shack you are usually impressed with their vast collection. My memories of constantly repairing equipment for hams and only getting a thank you kinda confirms the title tho.  So let's just say we always get the biggest bang for our bucks. Bo W4GHV since '54

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Nigel G4ZAL
 

Not wishing to stray off topic, but has anyone tried this fix by DF3FY ?
http://ubitx.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/pop-fix.pdf

Nigel.

Re: For those keeping track of uBITX shipping times #ubitx

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

Good news I got my ubix today just waiting for my case from India then the fun starts well happy 


On Sat, 28 Apr 2018, 14:57 Ken Peck, <kenbpeck@...> wrote:
I ordered mine on 4/6, received a shipping notice 4/25, and tracking information indicates delivery expected May 1.

Re: Diagnostic software for uBitx #ubitx

Jon EA2SN
 

Folks,
I didn't know Heatkit had that on their kits, but I know for sure that the Elecraft
K2 had some diagnostics on firmware, and the Open QRP concept by K1EL
and others was built step by step with most of its functions tested with its
own microprocessor.
Hans, with his QCX, has done another leap, as he usually does... :-)
jon, ea2sn

Re: U1 fried

Dennis Yancey
 

One of the things that might help is to install a resistor on the jack that comes int play when you remove the speaker plug. This could be anything from 6 - 30 ohms as the Impedence of the TDA is Bout 32 ohms. If you installing it at the pin that makes contact with the tip when the plug is removed and connect it to GND, this would assure a load on the output at all times. I would recommend a value around 8 - 16 ohms as that is two of the most common impedences in speakers, The other is 4 ohms and I would stay away from this value as the current is going to go way up on the 2822.  Good luck. 
--
72 and God bless
KD4EPG

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Michael Shreeve
 

Swan felt the power output should be lowered if the SWR was high in these early solid state transceivers from the 70s.


On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 8:50 PM Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Ah, where you say "R1", you meant to say "RV1".
Still curious how desirable you have found Swan's ALC to be.



On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 05:58 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Michael,

The Q90 and RV1 you refer to are definitely in the uBitx schematic.
I'm not finding R1 except in the Tandem Match here:  http://www.kitsandparts.com/bridge1.4.php
Is that the R1 you are referring to? 
Probably not, as it is not fed with "weak RF from the first amplifier of the transmitter"
An attenuator around RV1 is certainly a good choice for adjusting output power, effective for both CW and SSB.

For SSB, this attenuator could be most anywhere, all the way back to the mike. 
Perhaps an audio AGC circuit or speech compressor between mike and rig?

Have you found Swan's ALC to be a useful feature?
In what way? 

Jerry


. . .

 


On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 05:32 pm, Michael Shreeve wrote:
Looking at the circuit, I see R1 simply is fed with full RF at the top, but relatively weak RF from the first amplifier in the transmitter. I'll measure the voltage, but its simple,   the wiper sends however much RF you need on to the rest of the output circuit. If this control could be mounted on the panel of the radio, you would have a transmit power control. But, it might not be good to take it off the board. 
 
This is done, if you look , right at the output of the first rf amplifier Q90 and RV1 passes the rf along to the input of a couple of dc direct coupled 2n3904s . Some sort of RF attenuator after rv1 would do the trick, and control voltage from a bridge swr detector could control that. I'm guessing the Circuit Don uses, or part of it, the AGC, could be modified To control RF when it detects a lot of voltage from a swr bridge. Then you would have what swan calls a "ALC" !
 
 

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Michael Shreeve
 

Typo, both should be RV1


On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 5:58 PM Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Michael,

The Q90 and RV1 you refer to are definitely in the uBitx schematic.
I'm not finding R1 except in the Tandem Match here:  http://www.kitsandparts.com/bridge1.4.php
Is that the R1 you are referring to? 
Probably not, as it is not fed with "weak RF from the first amplifier of the transmitter"
An attenuator around RV1 is certainly a good choice for adjusting output power, effective for both CW and SSB.

For SSB, this attenuator could be most anywhere, all the way back to the mike. 
Perhaps an audio AGC circuit or speech compressor between mike and rig?

Have you found Swan's ALC to be a useful feature?
In what way? 

Jerry



On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 05:32 pm, Michael Shreeve wrote:
Looking at the circuit, I see R1 simply is fed with full RF at the top, but relatively weak RF from the first amplifier in the transmitter. I'll measure the voltage, but its simple,   the wiper sends however much RF you need on to the rest of the output circuit. If this control could be mounted on the panel of the radio, you would have a transmit power control. But, it might not be good to take it off the board. 
 
This is done, if you look , right at the output of the first rf amplifier Q90 and RV1 passes the rf along to the input of a couple of dc direct coupled 2n3904s . Some sort of RF attenuator after rv1 would do the trick, and control voltage from a bridge swr detector could control that. I'm guessing the Circuit Don uses, or part of it, the AGC, could be modified To control RF when it detects a lot of voltage from a swr bridge. Then you would have what swan calls a "ALC" !
 
 

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Jerry Gaffke
 

Ah, where you say "R1", you meant to say "RV1".
Still curious how desirable you have found Swan's ALC to be.



On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 05:58 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Michael,

The Q90 and RV1 you refer to are definitely in the uBitx schematic.
I'm not finding R1 except in the Tandem Match here:  http://www.kitsandparts.com/bridge1.4.php
Is that the R1 you are referring to? 
Probably not, as it is not fed with "weak RF from the first amplifier of the transmitter"
An attenuator around RV1 is certainly a good choice for adjusting output power, effective for both CW and SSB.

For SSB, this attenuator could be most anywhere, all the way back to the mike. 
Perhaps an audio AGC circuit or speech compressor between mike and rig?

Have you found Swan's ALC to be a useful feature?
In what way? 

Jerry


. . .

 


On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 05:32 pm, Michael Shreeve wrote:
Looking at the circuit, I see R1 simply is fed with full RF at the top, but relatively weak RF from the first amplifier in the transmitter. I'll measure the voltage, but its simple,   the wiper sends however much RF you need on to the rest of the output circuit. If this control could be mounted on the panel of the radio, you would have a transmit power control. But, it might not be good to take it off the board. 
 
This is done, if you look , right at the output of the first rf amplifier Q90 and RV1 passes the rf along to the input of a couple of dc direct coupled 2n3904s . Some sort of RF attenuator after rv1 would do the trick, and control voltage from a bridge swr detector could control that. I'm guessing the Circuit Don uses, or part of it, the AGC, could be modified To control RF when it detects a lot of voltage from a swr bridge. Then you would have what swan calls a "ALC" !
 
 

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X (step and repeat artwork)

Robert Ogburn
 

Hi stranger!
What program are you using to do layout?
I do the silk for the first of the step and repeat only...

de N5LXK  73  k

Re: ND6T AGC implementation for uBIT-X

Nick VK4PP
 

https://jlcpcb.com/ has the option to do multiple PCBs on a 100x100 plate....
I have used them with great success.
73