Mark, Running at 175C is way too hot for any reliability. Keep it cooler. That means more heatsink as you pay a 2.5degreeC/per watt of heat dissipated price for the part. At over 100C you need to

Yep I'm sure, If you read his article about the amp, you can see OM Kosser is a really careful designer that worked very hard to make that amp a nice reliable design. So he was being prudent and

Yes. V6 doesn't use an LCD at all. It uses one of the 2.8" TFT color screens and the pinouts go to a 14 pin connector that's mounted down the right side of the V6 Raduino board. V6 Raduino is the

Apologies for the late reply Steve, Tinkercad lets you export flat drawings for engraving and such. That may suite your needs. However thingiverse i believe has no support for such im afraid. -- Tim

After lots of empirical observation, the IRF510 heatsink (w/out mica insulator) can get a lot hotter than 32deg Cel. And live. Pointing my Lasergrip 774 standoff heat sensor at the TO-220, and at the

Erwin, I do agree with you that plastic can be a bit brittle that is why I was looking for a template as I did not want to find a insert replacement when a failure did occur. , I will be very careful

I am software but the wiring on the raduino for the LCD connector is totally different between V5 and V6?

I am software but the wiring of the LCD connector is totally different between V5 and V6.

Rick and gang, See if this helps? https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/bfo-tuning-aid/

Hi Patrick! We can split the parts between us, If You take the extra board for $50, and I take the new unbuildt complete kit for $100, we'd have a win-win. Seller ships all of it to You and You then

Hi, In WA2EBY's original paper he carefully studied the requirements for keeping the IRF510 at a safe temperature: "The amplifier can also be damaged by overheating. This limitation is imposed by the

Edwin -- why did get those exact thermal switches? Because I wanted the fans on, until it got warm, then turn off. And that worked perfectly. hahah. No, actually, I was a dope and didn't pay enough

Steve, plastic might be more brittle than metal, so try out the knibbling on a scrap piece first. I am currently printing on my Ultimaker Original and also building a Dremel 4000 tool 3D printed CNC

On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 09:14 PM, Don - KM4UDX wrote: Don km4udxI see you use NO switches starting from 35 degrees Celsius. In a case that would mean the fans are almost always on. Why did you pick

The code of post https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/44278 makes calibration trivial and also provides a way to center the signal in the 45mhz and the 12/11mhz crystal filters. With regard to the v6,

From Farhan's post of https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/73708 > The V6 is just an easier to assemble v5. No difference at all but for the touch display. > You can buy the tft off ali express

I've stumbled across a couple posts from kd8cec about his experiments with IF offset where he found the si5351 calibration would also benefit offsetting the first IF (45MHz) as well to compensate for

Yes, its frustrating that the simplest problems take so long to track down. That was certainly a DOH! moment (slaps head...). It's on me, not you. I often preach 'Look for the simplest problems

Will it be possible to purchase a V6 Radino only and adapt it to a V5 main board? Could this be a possible future upgrade path? Inquiring minds want to know.

Hi Jim, Would you be willing to sell the board only? I have a Raduino with a board I messed up... Thanks, Patrick VE9PAX