Date   

Re: How long does shipping take?

Andy Record
 

I just got my V6 today. (which is why I am back!)

I ordered on Dec 21, a Monday.
Received a "shipping" email (no tracking) on Dec 23,
Received a DHL tracking email on Dec 24th, with an estimated delivery before Dec 30.
It arrived today, Dec 28. 


How long does shipping take?

Gregg
 

I ordered mine with DHL shipping last week, how soon should I expect it? I didn't receive any confirmation or tracking info yet. Just trying to get an average on how long others have had to wait.

73,
Gregg


Re: Homebrew CW audio filter for uBITX - thumping/distortion on leading edges

Rob French (KC4UPR)
 

Ah-ha.  Two new things... one, this is ringing.  I checked the spectrum on the dots a little more carefully, and I can see that those additional spikes are clearly multiples of the peak frequency.  So when a signal gets centered up in the filter, it has a tendency to generate the ringing. 

Two... this was heavily exacerbated by my AGC.  In retrospect, as one would expect (I think), this is is worse with AGC Fast, and better with AGC Slow... with fast, the abrupt change in amplitude is more likely to generate the rapid transitions that causes the harmonics.

That said, even with my AGC turned off, I can still find the harmonics/ringing, they just don't have the pronounced "thump" effect.  With AGC Off, they cause more of a buzz/resonance.

Still looking to figure out how to remove them.  In retrospect, my three section filter is probably not ideal... I'm considering trying to modify one of the sections to be a low pass filter to try to tamp down the harmonics.

Regards,
Rob KC4UPR


Homebrew CW audio filter for uBITX - thumping/distortion on leading edges

Rob French (KC4UPR)
 

Hello,

I've implemented a simple audio band pass filter for CW on my uBITX v5.  It uses 3 sections of a TL974 op amp running off of 5V regulated (the 4th section of the op amp is used a buffer for a line out).

The three sections are identical, and implement a bandpass filter with a center frequency of about 700 Hz (I've attached a screenshot of the audio response as I tuned across a CW signal on 40 meters).

The problem I have is that when a signal is tuned up in the passband, plus or minus a couple hundred Hz, I get a strong thumping or distortion effect on the leading edges.  I've attached an audio clip of listening to a CW station.  The audio distortion is most prominent on dots, and less so on dashes.  I've also attached some spectrum plots of (a) the clip as a whole, (b) dashes, and (c) dots.  In the dot spectrum, I can clearly see that there are some additional artifacts that I assume are contributing to the sound I get.

Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can modify one or more of my filter sections to remove these artifacts?  I designed the filter using components I had on hand.  I don't have a schematic drawn up at the moment, but I'm looking for awareness of general principles I may have overlooked. 

I designed it using this page:  https://www.electronicshub.org/active-band-pass-filter/

I used the Multi Feedback Active Band Pass Filter for reference.  My values are:
C1 & C2 = 11.4 nF (specific values .01 uF metal film caps I had on hand)
R1 = 82k
R2 = 180k
R3 = 3.3k

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

Regards,
-Rob KC4UPR


Re: Preferred antennas?

Mitchel Rought
 

I use my uBITX for ft8 and it it feeds either a homemade 5 element cobweb or a single element hexbeam, the hexbeam doesn't need an atu  but the cobweb does
hex swr is 1.2 and the cobweb swr is 1.8 before the match
still learning digital and enjoy building my antennas from scratch
cost for both antennas is less than  $150.00


Re: Ideas for "bulletproofing" the uBitx

Ashhar Farhan
 

Ubitx pcb carries holes to mount the RD16HHF1 in place of the IRF510s. These have infinite swr protection. You can directly bolt them to the chassis (the mounting tab is internally connected to the source of the mosfet). It will easily give you 20 watts, safely.


On Mon 28 Dec, 2020, 8:26 AM Bob Lunsford via groups.io, <nocrud222=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Building in an ammo can the right way will provide Electromagnetic protection, also.

Bob — KK5R

On Sunday, December 27, 2020, 8:39:15 PM EST, _Dave_ AD0B <davesters@...> wrote:


I have  thought about building one into an ammo can. Probably a steel GI 50 cal can. Start with building a sub frame that can slide into the can. Keeping the can water resistant  The sub frame would have a face plate with display knobs,  including power and antenna port on the front inside panel. When not in use you can clamp on the top and everything is as snug as bug in a rug. 
--
73
Dave
ADOB
Raduino bracket and Ham_Made_Keys


Re: IRF510 sale

Shirley Dulcey KE1L
 

Correct. MPJA charges a flat $6.95 shipping fee if you're willing to accept their choice of carrier.


On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 7:23 PM Bob Lunsford via groups.io <nocrud222=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I suspect that if you order two packages of ten FETs — the shipping will not increase, either.

Bob — KK5R

On Monday, December 28, 2020, 3:36:39 PM EST, Ted via groups.io <k3rta=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


A good deal.  Add a 5A buck converter for running the finals on 18-22 volts, and the shipping does not increase.



Ted
K3RTA


Re: Preferred antennas?

Jonathan McAdams <jonmcahm@...>
 

Has anyone had experience using the Signaloop or MFJ small loop QRP antennas? For those of us in very limited space environments? Hopefully this isn't off topic. Thank you.

73, Jon
K3MAH


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of _Dave_ AD0B <davesters@...>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 5:03:19 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Preferred antennas?
 
My loop isn't very spectacular on the scope It seems to resonate about every 728 kc. Never going too low nor too high. 

Mine is using printed spacers to hold twin feedlines for about 65' I have that go into a balun Have used both 1:1 and 4:1 homemade versions. Initially I had the baluns at the loop but after two failures of the coax fittings I moved it down near my deck so have coax hooked to a balun then up to the antenna. Our house is steel sided and I didn't want to run twin lead through the wall so used coax there. Figuring that shorter coax would lose less if the swr was high.

I am thinking that the "gain" if any is coming from the long runs of the wire. The longest run is about 100 yards. Our ground varies a lot in levelness the antenna fairly level AGL but varies from 100' to about 25'.
--
73
Dave
ADOB
Raduino bracket and Ham_Made_Keys


Re: Preferred antennas?

_Dave_ AD0B
 

My loop isn't very spectacular on the scope It seems to resonate about every 728 kc. Never going too low nor too high. 

Mine is using printed spacers to hold twin feedlines for about 65' I have that go into a balun Have used both 1:1 and 4:1 homemade versions. Initially I had the baluns at the loop but after two failures of the coax fittings I moved it down near my deck so have coax hooked to a balun then up to the antenna. Our house is steel sided and I didn't want to run twin lead through the wall so used coax there. Figuring that shorter coax would lose less if the swr was high.

I am thinking that the "gain" if any is coming from the long runs of the wire. The longest run is about 100 yards. Our ground varies a lot in levelness the antenna fairly level AGL but varies from 100' to about 25'.
--
73
Dave
ADOB
Raduino bracket and Ham_Made_Keys


Re: uBITX 6 on sale at Gigaparts through 12/27

Bob Lunsford
 

Good source for Super Glue is Dollar Tree. Also some DT Stores have nice stereo patch cords that can be used for mic cable. The good ones are round and shielded.

Bob — KK5R


On Monday, December 28, 2020, 4:32:29 PM EST, Jerry Gaffke via groups.io <jgaffke@...> wrote:


Search for "spot weld cutter", there are many possible sources:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-63657.html
I've got both the 5/16" and 3/8" sizes, both are handy.
The centering pin is spring loaded, it does not go through the board.
A short burst with the drill motor will cut a round island into the top layer of copper of a PCB.
Keep going and you get a manhatten style pad.
    https://hackaday.com/2011/09/04/a-ham-radio-receiver-manhattan-style/

A better way to make manhatten style pads is with a sheet metal punch.

Here's a quote from a post by Chuck Adams on using a punch:      https://groups.io/g/qrp-tech/message/13389
The punch used to be carried by Harbor Freight back in the late 90's. 1. Punch. <http://tinyurl.com/yblw5oa8>; <http://tinyurl.com/ydaq7968>; <http://tinyurl.com/ya4h87r6>; bunch at this site. report back to the group if you buy one and how the vendor did.... <http://www.qrpme.com>; for already made pads and save the cost of the punch and time to punch out same. Let me or the group know how fast you get them. 2. PCB Material. <http://stores.ebay.com/PCB-Laminates-Copper-Clad/_i.html>; Use the CEM-1 for Manhattan, NOT the FR-4. Too much wear on you and the punch for the FR-4 PCB material. I ordered some 0.044" thick board CEM-1 4"x6" for this project. I'm not worried about him running out. Probably won't be 3 or 4 even think of this. 3. Super Glue. In Chapter 24 I show a photo of three bottles I got at Home Depot in the paint department. The Loctite lasts the longest and the bottle shown in the photo still works. The other two turned to solid stuff. Figure 218 on page 333 of the notebook.

A search in that group for "punch cem" will bring up a bunch of other posts from Chuck about using a punch on CEM-1 PCB material.
There are several sources for sheet metal punches like that.

That CEM-1 stuff doesn't crack like phenolic PCB's, but not as strong as FR-4.
Very cheap, ideal for prototyping with.

Jerry, KE7ER




On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 12:01 PM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
Harbor Freight also sells a Rivet Removal Tool that makes PC board scraps into pads to glue on PC boards for "ugly" experimental desigh... Not very expensive, either.
 
Bob — KK5R
 


Re: Best place for gain control stage. Beginning, middle or end of RF/IF/Audio circuit chain?

Bob Lunsford
 

I'm contemplating just putting two back-to-back diodes across the headphone line to avoid tinkering with the radio. Cheap and dirty.

Bob — KK5R

On Monday, December 28, 2020, 4:18:08 PM EST, MadRadioModder <madradiomodder@...> wrote:


Maybe it’s not difficult to put a hycas within the IF bidirectional amp, I haven't looked at it.  ß you just need it on the receive direction of the bi-di’s of course.

 

From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> On Behalf Of Curt via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 2:28 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Best place for gain control stage. Beginning, middle or end of RF/IF/Audio circuit chain?

 

I find when tuning across a band with headphones that some agc is very nice. On cw I tend to do okay without agc, but my v4 has it and I never have turned it off.

Yes I spotted hycas circuit in jackal. And w8diz is now working to kit a version of hycas. Maybe its not difficult to put a hycas within the IF bidirectional amp, I haven't looked at it.

Well a high performance approach might be to user a brawnier amplifier at 45 MHz, and a hycas at the 12 MHz IF, but guess what the photonic agc I installed is much simpler and works well enough. I just need to design another receiver around the hycas that sits here.

73 curt


Virus-free. www.avg.com

--

…_. _._


Re: IRF510 sale

Bob Lunsford
 

I suspect that if you order two packages of ten FETs — the shipping will not increase, either.

Bob — KK5R

On Monday, December 28, 2020, 3:36:39 PM EST, Ted via groups.io <k3rta@...> wrote:


A good deal.  Add a 5A buck converter for running the finals on 18-22 volts, and the shipping does not increase.



Ted
K3RTA


Re: New to group

Reed N
 

Hi  KC3BUZ,

Sorry to disappoint, but the CEC software is not capable of driving the v6 display. Only nextion or the 16x2. That's why you get an all-white screen.


Reed


Re: uBITX 6 on sale at Gigaparts through 12/27

Jerry Gaffke
 

Search for "spot weld cutter", there are many possible sources:
    https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-63657.html
I've got both the 5/16" and 3/8" sizes, both are handy.
The centering pin is spring loaded, it does not go through the board.
A short burst with the drill motor will cut a round island into the top layer of copper of a PCB.
Keep going and you get a manhatten style pad.
    https://hackaday.com/2011/09/04/a-ham-radio-receiver-manhattan-style/

A better way to make manhatten style pads is with a sheet metal punch.

Here's a quote from a post by Chuck Adams on using a punch:      https://groups.io/g/qrp-tech/message/13389
The punch used to be carried by Harbor Freight back in the late 90's. 1. Punch. <http://tinyurl.com/yblw5oa8>; <http://tinyurl.com/ydaq7968>; <http://tinyurl.com/ya4h87r6>; bunch at this site. report back to the group if you buy one and how the vendor did.... <http://www.qrpme.com>; for already made pads and save the cost of the punch and time to punch out same. Let me or the group know how fast you get them. 2. PCB Material. <http://stores.ebay.com/PCB-Laminates-Copper-Clad/_i.html>; Use the CEM-1 for Manhattan, NOT the FR-4. Too much wear on you and the punch for the FR-4 PCB material. I ordered some 0.044" thick board CEM-1 4"x6" for this project. I'm not worried about him running out. Probably won't be 3 or 4 even think of this. 3. Super Glue. In Chapter 24 I show a photo of three bottles I got at Home Depot in the paint department. The Loctite lasts the longest and the bottle shown in the photo still works. The other two turned to solid stuff. Figure 218 on page 333 of the notebook.

A search in that group for "punch cem" will bring up a bunch of other posts from Chuck about using a punch on CEM-1 PCB material.
There are several sources for sheet metal punches like that.

That CEM-1 stuff doesn't crack like phenolic PCB's, but not as strong as FR-4.
Very cheap, ideal for prototyping with.

Jerry, KE7ER




On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 12:01 PM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
Harbor Freight also sells a Rivet Removal Tool that makes PC board scraps into pads to glue on PC boards for "ugly" experimental desigh... Not very expensive, either.
 
Bob — KK5R
 


Re: Best place for gain control stage. Beginning, middle or end of RF/IF/Audio circuit chain?

MadRadioModder
 

Maybe it’s not difficult to put a hycas within the IF bidirectional amp, I haven't looked at it.  ß you just need it on the receive direction of the bi-di’s of course.

 

From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> On Behalf Of Curt via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 2:28 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Best place for gain control stage. Beginning, middle or end of RF/IF/Audio circuit chain?

 

I find when tuning across a band with headphones that some agc is very nice. On cw I tend to do okay without agc, but my v4 has it and I never have turned it off.

Yes I spotted hycas circuit in jackal. And w8diz is now working to kit a version of hycas. Maybe its not difficult to put a hycas within the IF bidirectional amp, I haven't looked at it.

Well a high performance approach might be to user a brawnier amplifier at 45 MHz, and a hycas at the 12 MHz IF, but guess what the photonic agc I installed is much simpler and works well enough. I just need to design another receiver around the hycas that sits here.

73 curt


Virus-free. www.avg.com

--

…_. _._


New to group

KC3BUZ
 

Thanks for the add. I've been working with a uBITX v6. Been trying to upgrade the firmware to the CEC1.2 but the screen come up being a blank white screen. I then tried a different firmware upgrade that gave me CAT function, and the ability to change the colors of my screen layout through the sketch. I was using my rig for WSPR all night, now it refuses to connect to my port. I still have the stock tft display. Any advice on how to get the CEC1.2 to work on the stock display would be greatly appreciated.


Re: uBITX 6 on sale at Gigaparts through 12/27

Arv Evans
 

My hearing aids have high volume limiting which serves as an old-guy 
cheap AGC.  See, there are advantages to being ancient and mostly deaf!  
8-)

Arv
_._


On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 12:09 PM Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
Hi Bob,

In the general population that translates to different strokes for
different folks. That is one of the main and attractive features of
amateur radio. I like Arv's idea of the single band BitX updated with
some of the newer approaches. It would also be simpler due to no band
switching among input and output filters. That should make it easier to
achieve good 'compliance'.

I have been mostly a CW op but I am NOT without SSB here. I wonder where
my mic is right now. Having AGC is not something critical to me. AGC
even has some disadvantages and in *my* radios I want to be able to
disable it. I will probably whiz up something AGC for my V3. I don't
have to reinvent it. There are a lot of published designs:)

Happy Holidays and..

73,

Bill  KU8H

On Mon, 28 Dec 2020 18:41:18 +0000 (UTC)
"Bob Lunsford via groups.io" <nocrud222=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

>  Bill, I tried the mic that comes with the Xiegu G1M and the G1M mic
> provides just slightly more power output. However, I opened the mic
> hole in the V6 mic case to 1/8th inch (used an injet refill cartridge
> drill) so this may be a factor. That I have a backup mic, for each
> radio, is comforting but it did not change my sleeping habits. I
> believe that the V6 is more of interest for the QRP CW operator than
> for someone who wants to get a WAS award with a QRP SSB rig. It's all
> about what winds each guy up that uses radios, though. There are many
> little "tricks" that improve on the V6 but they don't improve the
> function and ability of the V6 enough to write a book about. And we
> all can go back and reevaluate something that we once saw as an
> improvement and realize it made it slightly better but not enough
> shout about. I do enjoy reading others' comments and have ordered an
> AGC kit but it has not been installed, yet, due to laziness and being
> too busy getting enjoyment from the Complete Kit as it is. Later...
> Bob — KK5R
>






Re: uBITX 6 on sale at Gigaparts through 12/27

Arv Evans
 

A small cheap CNC Mill can be used to cut PCB material into small landing 
pads for ugly construction.  It can also be used to cut partially through thick 
PCB blank material and make a bed of isolated squares or stripes.  With a 
proper G-code file it can even be used to "etch" PCBs.  If you "mill" your own 
PCB design you can also use the CNC Mill to drill holes for leaded components.

Now you have a reason or excuse to build or buy a small CNC milling machine.  
   8-)

This attached image (not my own mill) shows a simple CNC style mill that could 
be assembled with crank handles instead of stepper motors.  That would let 
you cut in X and Y directions and to adjust the Z axis for fixed depth of cut.  
This could be used for manually making square pads for ugly construction or 
for making beds of squares or stripes.  

You can also build a cheap manual controlled CNC type mill using wood 
(salvaged pallets) for superstructure and hardware store threaded rod 
(hanger rod) and hanger-rod nuts for the drive mechanisms.  Slices could 
be smooth rod or PVC pipe, with nylon (cutting boards from the Dollar Store)
for the slides.  Add crank handles instead of motors and you are ready to 
machine straight lines.  Add the stepper motors later.  Step motors from old 
printers are cheap and probably all you will need.


Arv
_._


On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 1:01 PM Bob Lunsford via groups.io <nocrud222=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Harbor Freight also sells a Rivet Removal Tool that makes PC board scraps into pads to glue on PC boards for "ugly" experimental desigh... Not very expensive, either.

Bob — KK5R

On Monday, December 28, 2020, 1:54:52 PM EST, MadRadioModder <madradiomodder@...> wrote:


I LOVE constructing ugly to test out my designs.  If you buy a “Spot Weld Drill Set” off amazon, you can make your own landing pads (from scrap unetched/ clad circuit board) and glue them to a piece of unetched board as a building ground-plane.  It’s the cheapest/ best way I’ve found to make prototypes.

 

From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> On Behalf Of Arv Evans
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 12:11 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] uBITX 6 on sale at Gigaparts through 12/27

 

There is always the "ugly construction" route if price is the determining 

factor.  I have not added up the total price of components only, but 

without the PCB and case it should be quite a bit less than a kit version.

Software for the factory version is readily available if you want to load it 

into your own Arduino or just an AVR if you want to build your own Arduino..  

 

Early BITX20 transceivers were built section by section with each section   

tested before going on to the next one.  It is even possible to do Manhattan 

or ugly construction with SMD parts, but admittedly easier with leaded 

components if this is your first major build project.

 

Arv  K7HKL

_._

 

 

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 10:59 AM Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:

Hi Jerry,

I agree with most of that. The included mic with the V6 is a sad case
and not worth considering in the price increase. Ease of assembly,
touch display, and pretty box may or may not have value to individual
buyers. The box *is* optional. I was just surprised by how much those
things increased the price.

Purchasers of a new uBitX don't really have a choice beyond the box/no
box option. At my shop the box is not worth it. For many hams some
purchased box will be required and the one from HF Signals is probably
price competitive. If you are forced to buy (instead of fabricate) it is
probably the best choice. And yes, the uBitx is still a lot of bang for
the buck. Just more bucks required.

73,

Bill  KU8H


On Mon, 28 Dec 2020 08:00:46 -0800
"Jerry Gaffke via groups.io" <jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

> Basic kit is $160.
> (At $209 you also get a very nice metal cabinet, speaker, and USB
> cable.)
>
> Price has gone up since the $120 v3, but it now includes mike and a
> large display. Now includes shipment via DHL, which I believe used to
> be an extra $20 or so. More power out on the high bands.   Everything
> snaps together.
>
> More importantly, all the changes required to make it emissions
> compliant. Which was an almost impossible task given how simple the
> rig has been kept, as a year's worth of bickering here in the forum
> will attest.
>
> Those of us with a v3 or v4 spent more than $160 to get
> things anywhere close to equivalent, plus months of head scratching.
> And there is still nothing else this capable on the market that comes
> close to this price.
>
> This is a better deal than the older versions.
> Given the fixes, I can recommend it without hesitation.
> Especially for any ham who is cash strapped.
> Or any ham who wishes a rig that is open source, simple, easy to
> modify and learn from.
>
> My only suggestion to HFSignals would be to sell a slightly cheaper
> version without the fancy display, as I am quite happy with a 16x2
> LCD. If I want to communicate via a touchscreen, I've got my
> cellphone for that.
>
> Jerry, KE7ER
>
> M, Bill Cromwell wrote:
>
> >
> > Oh my,
> >
> > The price has doubled in just a couple of years. I should check HF
> > Signals pricing to see how much Gigaparts marked it up. I knew the
> > price went up a little when they included that nice box. I didn't
> > know it was doubled.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Bill KU8H 





Virus-free. www.avg.com

--

…_. _._


Re: IRF510 sale

barry halterman
 

Amen to that Ted.
I just received my order from them today. Darn it, sure wish I would have known about the FETs last week!
Barry

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 3:36 PM Ted via groups.io <k3rta=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
A good deal.  Add a 5A buck converter for running the finals on 18-22 volts, and the shipping does not increase.



Ted
K3RTA


Re: IRF510 sale

Ted
 

A good deal.  Add a 5A buck converter for running the finals on 18-22 volts, and the shipping does not increase.



Ted
K3RTA

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