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Need new v4 raduino to work with green display #ft8 #arduino #bitx20 #bitx20help #digital

Gary Rindfuss <rindfussg@...>
 






I  have a v4 ubitx built into an old Heathkit HW-101 case. It is self contained with the broadcast filter and AGC mod. Analog s meter a built in power supply a 40w linear and  an audio amp and dsp board. Recently I purchased and  installed a digi board to run ft8  with wsjtx. It worked great for a week or so until it started to get erratic then stopped working all together for digital modes.  It works fine as a regular ssb radio otherwise. When I try to run ft8 i get " 0>0 " showing in the upper left of the raduino display and an error on wsjtx.


I worked with the digi board seller and he feels certain it is a bad raduino board. I have tried reloading various versions of the raduino sketch. No help.  Because of the case configuration I can only use the 2 line green display. (See picture)

How can I get a replacement raduino for this green display configuration? I need it to be dimensionally the same.
Any wisdom or help here would be appreciated!


Thanks !

Gary

KC3KSC
P

 

 


Re: Frequency calibration, Tuning Question, Sound very tinny questions Ubitx V6

jaytee1@...
 

Further suggestions welcome. Am I looking a reset?

I followed this video. At the VFO calibrate stage  it say to click on "Set Frequency."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6LGXhS4_O8

I don't have that option. However under Calibrations there is Local Oscillator, BFO, Touch Screen and Exit.
I did the procedure using Local Oscillator as Set Frequency.

No change. If I am on 3.755.00 ( a local net) I receive clearly on 3.754.200 I compared it to my regular radio.
Setting the BFO does seem to have taken the "Tinny" sound away to a degree.

- Holding the tuning knob in does not bring up the menu, I have to do that on the touch screen


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Vince Vielhaber
 

Tayda's still cheaper and it, too, comes with a cable. The amazon pack of 3 comes out to 4.66 ea, Tayda is 3.69 ea in single quantity.

Vince.

On 11/10/2020 10:14 AM, Dean Souleles wrote:
I buy these in packs of 3 with cables for less than one from Jameco.
Never had a problem. No issues with bootloader. And they come with short
USB cables which are useful bringing the USB connection out of the rig's
enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G99NNXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Jerry Gaffke
 

If using them on a Raduino, you definitely don't want the headers already soldered down.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Tue, Nov 10, 2020 at 07:28 AM, Bob Lunsford wrote:
Good. Get six ($28 approx) and get free shipping. A winner.
 
Bob — KK5R
 
Hide quoted text

 

On Tuesday, November 10, 2020, 10:14:11 AM EST, Dean Souleles <dsouleles@...> wrote:
 
 
I buy these in packs of 3 with cables for less than one from Jameco.  Never had a problem. No issues with bootloader. And they come with short USB cables which are useful bringing the USB connection out of the rig's enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G99NNXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Jack, W8TEE
 

Do you really care if uploads are faster? Do you care if there are more idle memory resources? If you just want the uBITX to work properly, these are not important issues. If you want to modify the code and are doing development work and constantly recompiling/uploading the code, that's a different story. If not, follow the old advice: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, November 10, 2020, 10:42:09 AM EST, Mark Erbaugh <mark.election@...> wrote:


Related question.

I noticed that the Nano in my new uBITX v6 is using the old bootloader. Does it make any sense to update the bootloader to the new one. I know that would make the uploads faster. How do the memory footprints of the bootloaders compare? Would the new bootloader make more space available for my program?

73,
Mar

--
Jack, W8TEE


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Mark Erbaugh
 

Related question.

I noticed that the Nano in my new uBITX v6 is using the old bootloader. Does it make any sense to update the bootloader to the new one. I know that would make the uploads faster. How do the memory footprints of the bootloaders compare? Would the new bootloader make more space available for my program?

73,
Mar


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Bob Lunsford
 

Good. Get six ($28 approx) and get free shipping. A winner.

Bob — KK5R

On Tuesday, November 10, 2020, 10:14:11 AM EST, Dean Souleles <dsouleles@...> wrote:


I buy these in packs of 3 with cables for less than one from Jameco.  Never had a problem. No issues with bootloader. And they come with short USB cables which are useful bringing the USB connection out of the rig's enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G99NNXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Dean Souleles
 

I buy these in packs of 3 with cables for less than one from Jameco.  Never had a problem. No issues with bootloader. And they come with short USB cables which are useful bringing the USB connection out of the rig's enclosure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G99NNXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Jerry Gaffke
 

Here's some Nano's on Amazon that don't yet have the headers soldered down.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713XK923/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0
The headers must be on the "wrong" side of the board for the Nano to plug into a Raduino.

There are cheaper sources:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001681659892.html
    https://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-Geekcreit-ATmega328P-Nano-V3-Controller-Board-Improved-Version-Module-Development-Board-p-983486.html?rmmds=detail-bottom-alsobought__2&cur_warehouse=CN

Like most Nano clones, all of the above have the CH340 chip for the USB interface.
Same as the Nano that HFSignals uses on the Raduino.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Tue, Nov 10, 2020 at 12:57 AM, Evan Hand wrote:
Viktors,
These would not work for the Raduino without desoldering the headers and moving them to the other side of the board.  For other projects, they should work fine.


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Jack, W8TEE
 

On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 09:23 PM, Viktors Miske wrote:
https://www.amazon.com/LAFVIN-Board-ATmega328P-Micro-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07G99NNXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1604985592&sr=8-3
Victors:

These will likely be clones from China, but my guess is they will work just fine. Two caveats:

1. They will likely use the CH340 or CH341 device driver firmware, which is freely available on the internet. Just download and install.
2. Because the clones frequently use the "old" bootloader, you must tell the IDE that fact. Do this using the menu sequence: Tools --> Processor "ATMega328P" --> ATMega328P (Old Bootloader).

Jack, W8TEE
 
--
Jack, W8TEE


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Evan Hand
 

On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 11:23 PM, Viktors Miske wrote:
Would this one work? Considering the price for 3 makes me hesitant. 
https://www.amazon.com/LAFVIN-Board-ATmega328P-Micro-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07G99NNXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1604985592&sr=8-3
Viktors,
These would not work for the Raduino without desoldering the headers and moving them to the other side of the board.  For other projects, they should work fine.

73
Evan
AC9TU


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Bob Lunsford
 

Victors, You should ask someone with more experience with Arduinos and Nanos. Also, if price is big factor, check other sources for the best prices but keen in mind that the least expensive from some sources may take longer to receive. Jamco has a lot of offerings, though; here is where they show all (403) of their kit items:


Bob — KK5R





On Tuesday, November 10, 2020, 12:23:49 AM EST, Viktors Miske <unclevic7@...> wrote:


Hey Bob Group,
Would this one work? Considering the price for 3 makes me hesitant. 
https://www.amazon.com/LAFVIN-Board-ATmega328P-Micro-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07G99NNXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1604985592&sr=8-3


Re: Arduino Nano V3

Viktors Miske
 

Hey Bob Group,
Would this one work? Considering the price for 3 makes me hesitant. 
https://www.amazon.com/LAFVIN-Board-ATmega328P-Micro-Controller-Arduino/dp/B07G99NNXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1604985592&sr=8-3


Arduino Nano V3

Bob Lunsford
 


Re: Looking for an reduced price uBitx V6, working or not.

Curt
 

Marc

See how your fishing goes. Might he easier to find a v5 or earlier board that is surplus. Do consider your screen choice as that impacts firmware choice. Maybe you have private reply turned off, glad to trade email. Been mostly off repeater as employer has me working from home, so I might need to virtual commute to get on FM. CUL. 72

Curt


Re: Thinking about buying a V6 but I have questions.

Curt
 

Bill

The v5 and v6 both have reduced spurious and should be in vicinity of compliance in most nations I suppose, as well as US. My modified v4 is clean on all bands cw, and lower bands so far on ssb.

The ubitx is not designed for cw qsk. I can do okay sending but adapt. CEC firmware is better but still there are hardware limits. Still I managed hundreds of cw qsos with it.

If there's an audio pop it can be addressed, v6 cw ops can comment.

The popular agc circuit in the US was designed by nd6t, I don't know that its still kitted. It sold better than kits to remedy the spurs! The vk3ye LED LDR agc that I have had more success with had some recent discussion here, but I admit it may be harder to reproduce until a kit supplier finds suitable devices currently made.

The v6 does use a touch screen, not a more expensive one but it can be updated. It was much easier to customize the v5, but I think the v6 can be bought without the enclosure.

All should be thrilled for the opportunity to purchase a ubitx, thanks again to hfsignals and the global community of builders.

73 curt wb8yyy


Re: Forgot one question

Jerry Gaffke
 

You might be all right, but I'd definitely tape the ends.
A short of +5v power from your host USB connector to ground
could blow something out in the host computer.
The host USB port should limit current to an amp or two, 
but I wouldn't count on it.  

Insulation shrinkage is often seen when you first strip some of
the insulation off the wire, stretching the insulation that is left behind.
Then maybe change your mind and cut it square instead.
But a temperature variation or aging could also cause such changes.

The old Bitx40 came with a wiring harness that plugged into the Raduino,
not all of those wires got used by the Bitx40.  Builders that simply left
the unused wires to land where they may often had trouble
with the wires finding +12v (perhaps on the  IRF510 heatsink)
and blowing out an IO cell on the Nano or destroying it entirely.
Those wires had been cut square.



On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 08:28 AM, Mark Erbaugh wrote:

Thanks for point that out. I thought about that but didn’t do anything. I wasn’t aware of the insulation shrinking. I guess I’ll add some tape.

 

Mark


Re: Introduction / Newbie Questions

AndyH
 

The touch controller seems to be fine with 5V according to the datasheet, and that's the only controller on the display board.  I'm guessing you called it right.

https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/746665/XPTEK/XPT2046/1


On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 11:45 PM, William Kimber <will-k@...> wrote:

Hi,

Do you mean " jumper for 5v"?

 Photo looks to me to be, jumper j1 to bypass regulator and run from 3.3v. I don't have display to check.  Also seems logical that it is set up for 5v and requires adjustment for 3.3v. Much safer.

Cheers,

Will,

ZL1TAO

 
On 9/11/20 3:56 pm, AndyH wrote:
Hey Mark,

   The HiLetGo display has a 3.3V 3-pin voltage regulator on the board (U1), but by default it is not in circuit.  There's a small pair of pads (looks like a regular SMD pad) labeled J1.  If you jump the pads with a solder blob, you can run the display from 5V.

    Enjoy,
     Andy



On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 02:47 PM, Mark Erbaugh wrote:

<snip>

 

Display

I located a display on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-240X320-Resolution-Display-ILI9341/dp/B073R7BH1B/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/137-6123160-7195153?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073R7BH1B&pd_rd_r=c9b8f25e-8904-4eec-8556-c7f85bef70a3&pd_rd_w=scFer&pd_rd_wg=w9kKW&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=TNTWYDB8SEGQJBMW9BKR&psc=1&refRID=TNTWYDB8SEGQJBMW9BKR)

 

that appears to be very similar. However, the docs say that it only runs on 3.3V, not 5V and that level shifters are required. I don’t see those on the schematic. Is this display being run at 5v?

 

<snip>

 


Re: Introduction / Newbie Questions

AndyH
 

I agree that on that layer it appears to be jumping the regulator.  I'm simply reporting what is documented in the TSW doc that I linked, and can confirm that J1 is jumped on the display I received from HF Signals as well.

73, Andy


On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 11:45 PM, William Kimber <will-k@...> wrote:

Hi,

Do you mean " jumper for 5v"?

 Photo looks to me to be, jumper j1 to bypass regulator and run from 3.3v. I don't have display to check.  Also seems logical that it is set up for 5v and requires adjustment for 3.3v. Much safer.

Cheers,

Will,

ZL1TAO

 
On 9/11/20 3:56 pm, AndyH wrote:
Hey Mark,

   The HiLetGo display has a 3.3V 3-pin voltage regulator on the board (U1), but by default it is not in circuit.  There's a small pair of pads (looks like a regular SMD pad) labeled J1.  If you jump the pads with a solder blob, you can run the display from 5V.

    Enjoy,
     Andy



On Sun, Nov 8, 2020 at 02:47 PM, Mark Erbaugh wrote:

<snip>

 

Display

I located a display on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-240X320-Resolution-Display-ILI9341/dp/B073R7BH1B/ref=pd_di_sccai_1/137-6123160-7195153?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073R7BH1B&pd_rd_r=c9b8f25e-8904-4eec-8556-c7f85bef70a3&pd_rd_w=scFer&pd_rd_wg=w9kKW&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=TNTWYDB8SEGQJBMW9BKR&psc=1&refRID=TNTWYDB8SEGQJBMW9BKR)

 

that appears to be very similar. However, the docs say that it only runs on 3.3V, not 5V and that level shifters are required. I don’t see those on the schematic. Is this display being run at 5v?

 

<snip>

 


Re: Forgot one question

Mark Erbaugh
 

Thanks for point that out. I thought about that but didn’t do anything. I wasn’t aware of the insulation shrinking. I guess I’ll add some tape.

 

Mark

 

 

 

From: Jerry Gaffke via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2020 11:04 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Forgot one question

 

Mark,

I assume you covered the ends of that red wire with tape before putting the cable back together.
You don't want the red wire touching the foil or the braid.  The red insulation can shrink back
over time, exposing the copper wire.

Here's a schematic of the CH340 clone of the Arduino Nano that is used:
   http://actrl.cz/blog/wp-content/uploads/nano_ch340_schematics-rev1.pdf
The reason the host computer can power the Nano and partially power the uBitx is 
the SD101CWS diode in the upper left.  This diode allows 5v from the USB connector
to power the Nano, and also goes out onto the Raduino's 5V rail, back through
the LM7805 regulator into the uBitx main board.  

Here's a datasheet for that diode:
    https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds30078.pdf
Note that the maximum continuous forward current is spec'd at 15ma, 
at which the forward voltage drop could be up to 0.90 Volts.
That may be enough to run the Nano, but the uBitx will want more than
ten times that current.  Though if the diode did burn out into an open state,
that would be the equivalent of Mark cutting his red wire.  And if the diode
fused up into a shorted state, that would tie the 5v source from the
computer host to the output of the 5v LM7805 regulator on the Raduino,
which would probably not be a disaster either if the host USB port is well designed.

Cutting the red wire in the USB cable is a fine fix.
Alternately, could remove that diode from the Nano.

I am not aware of anyone damaging a USB host computer or a uBitx
due to this issue.  Nor do I know of reports of blown diodes, though 
the symptoms would be rather subtle.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Mon, Nov 9, 2020 at 04:41 AM, Mark Erbaugh wrote:

Reed,

Based on your switch suggestion, I took a low-tech, brute-force approach that works (so far, at least).  I carefully removed about an inch of the outer plastic covering from the USB extension cable (that goes from the Nano to the rear panel), carefully separated the strands of the braid inside (similar to how you remove the center conductor from coax to create a pigtail), then peeled back a little of the foil. Inside that was a bundle of four wires. I removed a small section of the red (+V) wire. Then I carefully restored the foil and the braid and placed some black tape over the opening.

73,
Mark

 

 

 

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