Date   

Re: Replacing SMD component

Christopher Miller
 

Hello,

I just wanted to jump in and say thank the group for all the ideas. The one with the toothpick and putty etc was great. I have tweezers but my hands shake a lot and I suspect that will work for me. 

Thanks for the help,
Chris
KF4FTR


Re: Please explain to me how works the VFO's

Gerard
 

By the way, silly question about the Arduino software.
When uploading, does it only take into account the selected tab or does it do it for everything?
If it only takes the selected tab, then I will miss a piece of program!! LOL
My faith, interested to know anyway.
I don’t know?


Re: Replacing SMD component

R. Tyson
 

Oh well !  I was going to wait until tomorrow but impatience (and curiosity) got the better of me.

I have some LED lights above the workbench (Wow ! That's a fancy name for it) so I decided to have a go at removing Q90.

Plenty of flux and the tiny toasting fork did its job and the speck of dust that is Q90 was safely off the board. More flux on the pads and de-soldering braid and a hot iron cleaned up the pads. So far so good.

Tomorrow I will try and install the new speck of dust... er, I mean Q90 transistor. I have 10 of them so I can afford to sneeze 9 times.....  photo of what awaits Q90 below not very good but it was LED lighting.


Re: Please explain to me how works the VFO's

Gerard
 

Jack, 
My µBbitx is homemade, it has never been initialized in the factory.
So, you may have to force the values with the manager or execute the following procedure (This is in the code of the µbitx V4)
Because in fact if I make a reinit factory of my µBitx, I always get the same bad values?

here the code:
 
/**
 * This procedure is only for those who have a signal generator/transceiver tuned to exactly 7.150 and a dummy load 
 */
 
void btnWaitForClick(){
  while(!btnDown())
    active_delay(50);
  while(btnDown())
    active_delay(50);
 active_delay(50);
}
 
/**
 * Take a deep breath, math(ematics) ahead
 * The 25 mhz oscillator is multiplied by 35 to run the vco at 875 mhz
 * This is divided by a number to generate different frequencies.
 * If we divide it by 875, we will get 1 mhz signal
 * So, if the vco is shifted up by 875 hz, the generated frequency of 1 mhz is shifted by 1 hz (875/875)
 * At 12 Mhz, the carrier will needed to be shifted down by 12 hz for every 875 hz of shift up of the vco
 * 
 */
 
 
void factory_alignment(){
        
  calibrateClock();
 
  if (calibration == 0){
    printLine2("Setup Aborted");
    return;
  }
 
  //move it away to 7.160 for an LSB signal
  setFrequency(7170000l);
  updateDisplay();
  printLine2("#2 BFO");
  active_delay(1000);
 
  usbCarrier = 11994999l;
  menuSetupCarrier(1);
 
  if (usbCarrier == 11994999l){
    printLine2("Setup Aborted");
    return;
  }
  
  printLine2("#3:Test 3.5MHz");
  isUSB = false;
  setFrequency(3500000l);
  updateDisplay();
 
  while (!btnDown()){
    checkPTT();
    active_delay(100);
  }
 
  btnWaitForClick();
  printLine2("#4:Test 7MHz");
 
  setFrequency(7150000l);
  updateDisplay();
  while (!btnDown()){
    checkPTT();
    active_delay(100);
  }
 
  btnWaitForClick();
  printLine2("#5:Test 14MHz");
 
  isUSB = true;
  setFrequency(14000000l);
  updateDisplay();
  while (!btnDown()){
    checkPTT();
    active_delay(100);
  }
 
  btnWaitForClick();
  printLine2("#6:Test 28MHz");
 
  setFrequency(28000000l);
  updateDisplay();
  while (!btnDown()){
    checkPTT();
    active_delay(100);
  }
 
  printLine2("Alignment done");
  active_delay(1000);
 
  isUSB = false;
  setFrequency(7150000l);
  updateDisplay();  
  
}
 


Re: Please explain to me how works the VFO's

Gerard
 

Jack,
yes, Yes, there is no typo.

I would like to understand how it works, and especially if these values are fixed or slightly adapted, but they must remain in the same order of magnitude. 15mhz and 71mhz.
cdt


Re: Please explain to me how works the VFO's

Jack, W8TEE
 

It this a typo
VFOA= 71500000
or do you really mean 71MHz. Same with VFOB at 32MHz.

Jack, W8TEE


On Wednesday, September 9, 2020, 3:38:53 PM EDT, Gerard <kabupos@...> wrote:


Hello,
I’m a little confused with the VFO’s A and B.

In the code of the µbitx 4 it is noted VFOA= 71500000 and VFOB= 14150000 (see capture 2)
On the synoptic diagram these values are not found. see Synoptics
On one example of µbitx, we have like goods values. See picture 1. (It's for V6, but it's the same utilisation)
On my home made µbitx, i have VFO A 14157500, VFOB 32988500.
From which this value is displayed?
If it is a frequency that exists again, where to measure it?
Is it clock1? In this case there would be an error on the synoptics?

How to have correct values? Must important!!!!
I do not find in the yellow menu
--> Calibration is to have the real frequency that you receive on the screen, I think
--> BFO adjustment, is for alignement of the Xtal 12MHZ filter, i think.

Anyway, I need your light.
Thank's for yours answers.




--
Jack, W8TEE


Please explain to me how works the VFO's

Gerard
 

Hello,
I’m a little confused with the VFO’s A and B.

In the code of the µbitx 4 it is noted VFOA= 71500000 and VFOB= 14150000 (see capture 2)
On the synoptic diagram these values are not found. see Synoptics
On one example of µbitx, we have like goods values. See picture 1. (It's for V6, but it's the same utilisation)
On my home made µbitx, i have VFO A 14157500, VFOB 32988500.
From which this value is displayed?
If it is a frequency that exists again, where to measure it?
Is it clock1? In this case there would be an error on the synoptics?

How to have correct values? Must important!!!!
I do not find in the yellow menu
--> Calibration is to have the real frequency that you receive on the screen, I think
--> BFO adjustment, is for alignement of the Xtal 12MHZ filter, i think.

Anyway, I need your light.
Thank's for yours answers.




Re: Replacing SMD component

R. Tyson
 

Update,

The tiny toasting fork I made to remove SMD components didn't work. I had used enamel coated wire and it just wasn't transferring heat that well. A quick think... the solder on the tip of the iron transfers heat to the joint... O.K let's try again.
I made a new, tiny toasting fork out of bare copper wire and tinned the prongs. Bingo.. it was now like shelling peas. I had an old computer board to try it out on and it was removing components without any pushing, pulling, twisting or anything. Just hold it in place, the solder melts and the component comes off attached to one of the prongs - a quick flick and that's it the prongs are ready for the next component removal. The MAGIC ingredient is flux. I am using liquid flux but gel would do.

I can quickly clean the pads with solder wick braid and that again works much better when used with plenty of flux. I should have time tomorrow to have a go at replacing Q90.

I feel as though I am moving towards the dark side... never thought I would be playing with SMD devices. Aged 76 I had better crack on as time gets more pressing !

Reg               G4NFR


Re: Replacing SMD component

Dallas
 

At 65 years old I concur everyone should have a macro scope.  I also like an adjustable zoom and a long arm mounting stand. I started using one 40 years ago at work.  I had excellent vision back then but got addicted to the extended vision the scope gave me. After leaving that job I bought myself one for personal use.  I bought another better one on eBay 10-15 years ago when the imported stuff started showing up at low prices. I also recommend the LED ring light attachment that fits around the lens.  One other thing to watch for is an auxiliary screw-on lens that will move the focal plane 8-10 inches further away from the objective lens, this gives your hands room to work on what you are looking at.  You will use it for much more than SMD’s.

Dallas
N5fee


Re: Hardware for Nextion #nextion #ubitx #ubitxv6

Evan Hand
 

No.  Here is a PDF link that shows how it is done:
https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/groupsioattachments/5062/69473862/74572/0?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJECNKOVMCCU3ATNQ&Expires=1599675235&Signature=nct%2FTZYG1xsAPIIAOMMTFJepyxI%3D&response-content-disposition=inline%3B+filename%3D%22UBITX+V6+NEXTION+TFT+DISPLAY+MODIFICATION.pdf%22

The one update that is missing is that you can extend the screw holes to allow all 4 bolts to mount the display.  This would be on the Nextion display.  Listed in this message:
https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/74887

CAUTION - I do not own a V6 uBITX, so the above is based on what I have read.
73
Evan
AC9TU


Hardware for Nextion #nextion #ubitx #ubitxv6

Aaron K5ATG
 

If I wanted to put a Nextion Display on my uBITX V6, is there any additional hardware or other stuff that I would have to buy for the Nextion to work?
--
'72
Aaron Scott
QRPARCI# 16443
GQRP# 16389
4SQRP # 1080


Re: BITX on 6m?

Dj Merrill
 

On 9/9/2020 9:20 AM, iz oos wrote:
Add a transverter

I mentioned adding a transverter in my original posting, but the one I found is apparently not stable enough to do FT8 (based on a comment from another list).

https://transverters-store.com/50mhz_assembled_with_att.htm


Do you have a recommendation for one that is known to work?


Thank you,


-Dj


Re: BITX on 6m?

iz oos
 

Add a transverter


Il mer 9 set 2020 03:16 PM MadRadioModder <madradiomodder@...> ha scritto:
Yes i have one modded for 6 meters.  Be prepared to redo the transmit section from Q90 on and beat use it for just 6 meters.  New IF and different filters and away it goes.  


MRM

 


On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:08 PM, Dj Merrill via groups.io <groupsio=deej.net@groups.io> wrote:

Hi all.  I am interested in playing around with FT8 on 10m and 6m, and trying to do it fairly cheaply.  The BITX looks like a very cool radio and is within my price range, and hits the 10m requirement. 

Has anyone modded one to be able to use it on 6m for FT8?  I've thought about a transverter, and found this one for $80, but I've been told it isn't stable enough to do FT8 (https://transverters-store.com/50mhz_assembled_with_att.htm).

The next least expensive option I've found for a radio that will do 10m and 6m suitable for FT8 is a Yaesu FT-450D which I can find used for around $500.

Thoughts?

-Dj

--

…_. _._


Re: BITX on 6m?

MadRadioModder
 

Yes i have one modded for 6 meters.  Be prepared to redo the transmit section from Q90 on and beat use it for just 6 meters.  New IF and different filters and away it goes.  


MRM

 


On Sep 8, 2020, at 3:08 PM, Dj Merrill via groups.io <groupsio@...> wrote:

Hi all.  I am interested in playing around with FT8 on 10m and 6m, and trying to do it fairly cheaply.  The BITX looks like a very cool radio and is within my price range, and hits the 10m requirement. 

Has anyone modded one to be able to use it on 6m for FT8?  I've thought about a transverter, and found this one for $80, but I've been told it isn't stable enough to do FT8 (https://transverters-store.com/50mhz_assembled_with_att.htm).

The next least expensive option I've found for a radio that will do 10m and 6m suitable for FT8 is a Yaesu FT-450D which I can find used for around $500.

Thoughts?

-Dj

--

…_. _._


Re: Replacing SMD component

Ralph Mowery
 

The hot air rework station is the way to go.  You can get them for under $70 in many cases.  Then some fine solder.  Get some Kapton heat resistant tape and put over the device to be removed if near other components and cut a hole in it over what you want to remove.  Some solder around .015 of the old tin/lead is best to use if you can get in your country.  Look on youtube on how to use the equipment.  I was over 60 when I started on the SMD.  Get an old computer board with some SMD on them and practice .  I did buy an Amscope SE-400z microscope for around $ 200.  I find that I am using that a lot now at my age and eyesight.  Usually use the 10x lenses with it.  That scope has plenty of work space under it.

I find the SMD very easy to work with in many cases with the small tools.  Look for a young man named Rossman on you tube and someof his older shows on the smd and tools.

Ralph ku4pt


Re: uBitx V5

Peter McCracken
 

Thanks Ashlar, the difference with the V5 is it does not have the onboard volume control or audio jacks which I actually prefer, but as pickings are slim might just order another v6 and remove them.


Re: Replacing SMD component

 

Farhan,

Never had a problem, desoldered the relay pins with a weller and the relays fell out. No damage to any
of your boards and all relays intact. On one board I tried many brands of relsy during the hunt for the
deverishes.

Raj


At 09/09/2020, you wrote:
I dremel out the bad relays. I work at slicing out the plastic cover then take out each exposed pin.Â

On Wed 9 Sep, 2020, 5:23 AM Gordon Gibby, <docvacuumtubes@... > wrote:
Cut them apart and remove them one pin at a time


On Sep 8, 2020, at 19:41, Shirley Dulcey KE1L <mark@...> wrote:


Replacing SMD components is easy -- I find it much easier to do than replacing through-hole parts. I've had a V3 on the shelf for a while that I'm now trying to put into use and I'm stuck on replacing the relays -- I can't get the existing ones off the board :(


Re: uBitx V5

Ashhar Farhan
 

The bitx v5 is just the v6 with a different raduino board. if you plug an old raduino board (the one with the 16x2 LCD), it becomes a v5.
- f

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 3:14 AM Peter McCracken <peter.mccracken@...> wrote:
Hi Folks,

I am still searching for a uBitx V5 if anyone has one for sale ?

Thanks!

Best regards, Peter.


Re: Replacing SMD component

Ashhar Farhan
 

I dremel out the bad relays. I work at slicing out the plastic cover then take out each exposed pin. 


On Wed 9 Sep, 2020, 5:23 AM Gordon Gibby, <docvacuumtubes@...> wrote:
Cut them apart and remove them one pin at a time


On Sep 8, 2020, at 19:41, Shirley Dulcey KE1L <mark@...> wrote:


Replacing SMD components is easy -- I find it much easier to do than replacing through-hole parts. I've had a V3 on the shelf for a while that I'm now trying to put into use and I'm stuck on replacing the relays -- I can't get the existing ones off the board :(


On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 7:26 PM Clark Martin <kk6isp@...> wrote:
For SMD I’ve found the following helpful.
Headset magnifier
fine tweezers
practice
Both with a conventional soldering iron and my hot air rework station, I practiced on desoldering components till I got a feel for it.  I also soldered a few recently removed parts back on to the board for practice at installing parts.

Clark Martin
KK6ISP

On Sep 8, 2020, at 11:48 AM, R. Tyson via groups.io <tysons2@...> wrote:

Thanks for all the comments and useful tips guys. All noted. If I get the idea of playing around with SMD parts I will look at getting a hot air system. Playing around with SMD parts may well be forced on me as they become increasingly the norm. 

I should have everything I need delivered in the next couple of days. I then need a nice sunny day for plenty of bright, natural light. After sacrificing several small fluffy toys to appease the gods I will then give it my best shot.


Re: BITX on 6m?

Keven Pittsinger
 

Or, you can build an outboard 6 meter converter like we did back in the day.


On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 6:36 PM Alan Cooper <cqw7aln@...> wrote:
I find this interesting and do not mean to hijack the thread but What about 630meters?
will this thing work on 472khz (630meters)?

Alan
w7aln

On Tue, Sep 8, 2020 at 2:49 PM Reed N <greenkid336600+groupsio@...> wrote:
You'd need to do some hardware mods, since the stock kit has filters to block transmission in the 50MHz range. I'm not sure if the finals are fast enough either, but haven't tried. Nothing in the high level design/architecture is fundamentally wrong, but the kit as sold will not transmit on 6m.


Reed

3601 - 3620 of 84546