Date   

Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Guy WB7SZI
 

Allard,
It may take a day or two before i can get back at it. Will let you know. and again thanks for all the suggestions.
-guy WB7SZI


Re: Bitx case design issues #ubitxv6 #parts #v6

Bob Lunsford
 

I figured that is what you actually meant but that also means the display is displaced by the thickness of the nut which also allows space between the rear of the front panel and the surface of the display. In fact, if I go this way with my V6 build, I would use washers since they are thinner and I can stack a certain number between the rear of the front panel and the display mounting to "adjust" the display offset and make it secure without a more than necessary gap between the display and the front panel. It may be tricky to do it this way but it is a guarantee that the tightening is being applied to the display and not merely tightening the screw into the offset nut. On the other hand, any old nut would work for the purpose you suggest since they are for spacing and do not need to thread onto the screw.

Metric screw cutters on the Champ type crimpers are not all that rare. Almost 1/4 of those I find in flea markets are metric and no doubt they are being passed on because they are metric thus less needed and/or used.

Most sellers and buyers really don't care whether they are English or Metric since the majority don't buy them for the screw cutting feature.

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 4:20:47 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:


Hi,

You didn't read what I wrote or else completely misunderstood it. The
nut is only in place while are working to shorten the screw. You
wouldn't put the whole danged radio kit in a bench vise! I have been
'adjusting' screws this way for decades. I have a tool like the one you
describe but it won't do metric screws. I wouldn't buy one just to trim
four screws. You spend your money the way you want.

For assembly of the radio that nut is not used with any of the four
screws as they screw into the standoff behind the panel. They will no
longer bottom out in the short standoff and will then pull the front
panel and the standoffs tightly together. The screw head will seat *in*
the front panel and the knob will clear.

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/9/20 1:39 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
> Doesn't putting a nut under the screw's head make it stick out from the
> cabinite? Wouldn't this cause even more interference with the back of
> the volume control knob? This might be a ramification of doing it this way.
>
> When you use the Champ crimper's screw cutting feature, you screw the
> screw into the tool from the threaded side and the unwanted part is cut
> off and then the screw is backed out the threaded side. This cleans up
> the screw's thread. And I've never had a problem screwing a screw with
> part of it cut off. The threaded part it's screwed into takes care of
> it; it had a shaped area that accepts the shortened screw with no problem.
>
> Those Champ crimpers were available at Sears and other "fine" stores but
> like I said, I get them at flea markets and they cost me somewhere
> between one and two dollars. I got one Saturday afternoon for one dollar
> from a guy who was cleaning out his garage. Now I have about four of them.
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 8:03:04 AM EDT, Bill Cromwell
> <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> There are probably as many ways to shorten those screws as there are
> screws to be shortened and hams to shorten them. I installed a hex nut
> on each screwand ran it up against the head of the screw. I clamped the
> nut in a bench vise and filed the screw down to size. That took about
> one minute at most. Finer file then beveled the ragged edge. Removing
> the nut cleaned up the ends of the threads on the way out. That beveled
> edge around the circumference of the screw makes it much easier to start
> the screw into the threaded hole at assembly time. I hope this help
> somebody who does not have the means to buy a special purpose tool for
> cutting and rethreading M3 screws. Files can be re-used for many other
> jobs. That $pecial tool can only be used to shorten M3 screws.
>
> 73,
>
> Bill  KU8H
>
> bark less - wag more
>
> On 6/8/20 9:47 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
>  > Some Champ-type crimpers also have screw cutting holes. Some are also
>  > metric screw cutters. I shop flea markets for crimpers.
>  >
>  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 9:06:20 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell
>  > <wrcromwell@... <mailto:wrcromwell@...>> wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  > Hi,
>  >
>  > The real problem is the screws reach the bottom of the hole in the
>  > standoff they screw into before the head ever gets to the front panel..
>  > No matter how much of the head you remove the screw will still be too
>  > long. When you saw a limb off from a tree be sure to sit on the trunk
>  > side of the cut instead of the outer side of your cut.
>  >
>  > 73,
>  >
>  > Bill  KU8H
>  >
>  > bark less - wag more
>  >
>  > On 6/8/20 8:14 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
>  >  > If the screen mounting screw headss are standing out from the surface
>  >  > too much, I'll run a countersink by hand and make it deeper. This
> should
>  >  > cure that problem.
>  >  >
>  >  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:50:15 PM EDT, rpremo <rpremo@...
> <mailto:rpremo@...>
>  > <mailto:rpremo@... <mailto:rpremo@...>>> wrote:
>  >  >
>  >  >
>  >  > Here's three issues I am having with full kit case , screws....1. Part
>  >  > inventory needed screws dont screw all the way. 2. Screen doesnt mount
>  >  > securely its lloose which is a problem for touch display 3. Design of
>  >  > screen in relation to volume knob sets up for the screw to secure
> screen
>  >  > interfering with turning knob couple with short volume shaft makes a
>  >  > knob not likely possible to secure
>  >  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>
>
>
>




Re: Bitx case design issues #ubitxv6 #parts #v6

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

You didn't read what I wrote or else completely misunderstood it. The nut is only in place while are working to shorten the screw. You wouldn't put the whole danged radio kit in a bench vise! I have been 'adjusting' screws this way for decades. I have a tool like the one you describe but it won't do metric screws. I wouldn't buy one just to trim four screws. You spend your money the way you want.

For assembly of the radio that nut is not used with any of the four screws as they screw into the standoff behind the panel. They will no longer bottom out in the short standoff and will then pull the front panel and the standoffs tightly together. The screw head will seat *in* the front panel and the knob will clear.

73,

Bill KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/9/20 1:39 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
Doesn't putting a nut under the screw's head make it stick out from the cabinite? Wouldn't this cause even more interference with the back of the volume control knob? This might be a ramification of doing it this way.
When you use the Champ crimper's screw cutting feature, you screw the screw into the tool from the threaded side and the unwanted part is cut off and then the screw is backed out the threaded side. This cleans up the screw's thread. And I've never had a problem screwing a screw with part of it cut off. The threaded part it's screwed into takes care of it; it had a shaped area that accepts the shortened screw with no problem.
Those Champ crimpers were available at Sears and other "fine" stores but like I said, I get them at flea markets and they cost me somewhere between one and two dollars. I got one Saturday afternoon for one dollar from a guy who was cleaning out his garage. Now I have about four of them.
On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 8:03:04 AM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
Hi,
There are probably as many ways to shorten those screws as there are
screws to be shortened and hams to shorten them. I installed a hex nut
on each screwand ran it up against the head of the screw. I clamped the
nut in a bench vise and filed the screw down to size. That took about
one minute at most. Finer file then beveled the ragged edge. Removing
the nut cleaned up the ends of the threads on the way out. That beveled
edge around the circumference of the screw makes it much easier to start
the screw into the threaded hole at assembly time. I hope this help
somebody who does not have the means to buy a special purpose tool for
cutting and rethreading M3 screws. Files can be re-used for many other
jobs. That $pecial tool can only be used to shorten M3 screws.
73,
Bill  KU8H
bark less - wag more
On 6/8/20 9:47 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
> Some Champ-type crimpers also have screw cutting holes. Some are also
> metric screw cutters. I shop flea markets for crimpers.
>
> On Monday, June 8, 2020, 9:06:20 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell
> <wrcromwell@... <mailto:wrcromwell@...>> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> The real problem is the screws reach the bottom of the hole in the
> standoff they screw into before the head ever gets to the front panel..
> No matter how much of the head you remove the screw will still be too
> long. When you saw a limb off from a tree be sure to sit on the trunk
> side of the cut instead of the outer side of your cut.
>
> 73,
>
> Bill  KU8H
>
> bark less - wag more
>
> On 6/8/20 8:14 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
>  > If the screen mounting screw headss are standing out from the surface
>  > too much, I'll run a countersink by hand and make it deeper. This
should
>  > cure that problem.
>  >
>  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:50:15 PM EDT, rpremo <rpremo@...
<mailto:rpremo@...>
> <mailto:rpremo@... <mailto:rpremo@...>>> wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  > Here's three issues I am having with full kit case , screws....1. Part
>  > inventory needed screws dont screw all the way. 2. Screen doesnt mount
>  > securely its lloose which is a problem for touch display 3. Design of
>  > screen in relation to volume knob sets up for the screw to secure
screen
>  > interfering with turning knob couple with short volume shaft makes a
>  > knob not likely possible to secure
>  >
>
>
>
>


Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Allard PE1NWL
 

Guy,

before jumping to conclusions, let's first measure the voltage on the other side of the 10K resistor (the top of C150).
Is that also a steady +5V regardless whether PTT is activated (TX) or not (RX)?

If the voltage is always +5V also at that point then there may be a problem with the RX/TX relay (the contacts may be 'sticking').
Gently tapping the relay with the back of a screwdriver may cure the problem.

If the voltage does change when switching between TX and RX then the Arduino input may indeed be blown,
In that case you could try to use another input pin instead of A0 (need to slightly modify the code to assign another pin).

73 Allard PE1NWL


Re: New Member Application

Arv Evans
 

Kyle

You are joined!

Arv
_._


On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 1:08 PM Kyle Litz via groups.io <bigoilny=icloud.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi,
My name is Kyle Litz. I’m K4LEL in the USA.  I’d like to join your group.  I recently purchased a units v6 and love it.

Kindly,
Kyle

K4LEL
FN33ba





New Member Application

Kyle Litz <bigoilny@...>
 

Hi,
My name is Kyle Litz. I’m K4LEL in the USA. I’d like to join your group. I recently purchased a units v6 and love it.

Kindly,
Kyle

K4LEL
FN33ba


Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Bob Lunsford
 

One comment of interest to me was that the plug in display board may have issues with it not being fully plugged in. Maybe this can be verified, also. Simple problems often expand to fill unexpected concerns.

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 1:33:54 PM EDT, Guy WB7SZI <sgbridge@...> wrote:


Allard,
Did the voltage checks on A0. In RX and TX I’m seeing 5 volts. So I may have an issue with A0 input pin.

-Guy


Re: #v6 For sale, #v6

Bob Lunsford
 

I had my eye on on the G90 and 5105 sold by MFJ since I had the XM1 and the predecessor to the G90 before. (My son has it now, he's a ham in Sacramento and loves to take it to the mountains, first contact was Japan)... The cost of the full V6 kit still saves you a bunch of money and can still supply bragging rights for putting it together.

When operating QRP, the rig is half of it and the other half is the antenna. Maybe more than half... For portable, I plan to use an endfed dipole with 9:1 unun since it's easy to put up and covers all bands. But that's another story.

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 12:12:33 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:


Hi,

I am voting with Dean. I have built some stuff before. I was looking for
a platform to get a good grasp of microcontrolers in radio gear and have
a new radio in the shack with general coverage receive and do SSB/CW on
the air. The uBitX ticked all the boxes. I have a V3 and it gets used:)
If you want a plug n play radio with all the bells n whistles and every
mode known to man you should buy a YaeComWood or EleCraft, etc (I have
a Kenwood, some Heath, and Johnson gear). The radio does what it
promises. Enjoy.

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/9/20 11:54 AM, Dean Souleles wrote:
> HI Bob -
>
> I think you are going to love your uBitx.  I have the V5 and until I
> built my own homebrew 40 meter transceiver it was my go-to rig - even
> over my Kenwood TS-450s.  I thoroughly enjoy operating it both SSB phone
> and digital.  With a good antenna and a good operating location you
> should be able to work the world.   Some folks don't seem to fully grasp
> is that this is not a commercial rig supported by a big company.  It is
> a low cost hobbyist kit rig with amazing capabilities - and all the
> support is right here on the board.  Even though V6 is pretty much plug
> and play - it is still a kit and you may need to do a little tune up
> work.  For me it was just calibrating the BFO- which is even easier now
> - there is a tool and procedure right on the HF Signals web site.  The
> other nice thing is that for an aspiring home-brewer the uBitx kit is a
> great gateway project.
>
> I frequently listen to AM stations - since this is a general coverage
> receiver you should be able to tune stations just about anywhere on the
> HF bands.   It is still single sideband but it sounds surprisingly
> good.  If your BFO is properly calibrated when you tune to an AM station
> you can flip back and forth between USB and LSB and you will hear no
> difference at all.
>
> As far as why some folks sell.... it's merely "different horses for
> different courses."  I guess not their cup of tea.
>
> 73,
> Dean
> KK4DAS
>




Re: #v6 For sale, #v6

Bob Lunsford
 

Thanks, Dean. I feel much better now. {;->

I plan to use it mainly for mobile purposes. The home rig is an FT-890 and it also has no menus buried in other menus. I had an FT-450 previously and let it go because it was not that good on AM Broadcast — after getting the menus set up, I rarely went into them so that was not a complaint.

I had the V4 before and it was OK but sold it because it was marginal to not being accepted with FCC standards on 20M and up, even though I seldom went above 20M, mainly using 17M when the band was open. Seeing that the V6 passed all FCC standards was the clincher for buying it and the full kit with cabinet is nice to show off, too. I look forward to getting it later this week.

Thanks again, Dean.

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 11:54:23 AM EDT, Dean Souleles <dsouleles@...> wrote:


HI Bob - 

I think you are going to love your uBitx.  I have the V5 and until I built my own homebrew 40 meter transceiver it was my go-to rig - even over my Kenwood TS-450s.  I thoroughly enjoy operating it both SSB phone and digital.  With a good antenna and a good operating location you should be able to work the world.   Some folks don't seem to fully grasp is that this is not a commercial rig supported by a big company.  It is a low cost hobbyist kit rig with amazing capabilities - and all the support is right here on the board.  Even though V6 is pretty much plug and play - it is still a kit and you may need to do a little tune up work.  For me it was just calibrating the BFO- which is even easier now - there is a tool and procedure right on the HF Signals web site.  The other nice thing is that for an aspiring home-brewer the uBitx kit is a great gateway project.

I frequently listen to AM stations - since this is a general coverage receiver you should be able to tune stations just about anywhere on the HF bands.   It is still single sideband but it sounds surprisingly good.  If your BFO is properly calibrated when you tune to an AM station you can flip back and forth between USB and LSB and you will hear no difference at all.

As far as why some folks sell.... it's merely "different horses for different courses."  I guess not their cup of tea.

73,
Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Bitx case design issues #ubitxv6 #parts #v6

Bob Lunsford
 

Doesn't putting a nut under the screw's head make it stick out from the cabinite? Wouldn't this cause even more interference with the back of the volume control knob? This might be a ramification of doing it this way.

When you use the Champ crimper's screw cutting feature, you screw the screw into the tool from the threaded side and the unwanted part is cut off and then the screw is backed out the threaded side. This cleans up the screw's thread. And I've never had a problem screwing a screw with part of it cut off. The threaded part it's screwed into takes care of it; it had a shaped area that accepts the shortened screw with no problem.

Those Champ crimpers were available at Sears and other "fine" stores but like I said, I get them at flea markets and they cost me somewhere between one and two dollars. I got one Saturday afternoon for one dollar from a guy who was cleaning out his garage. Now I have about four of them.


On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 8:03:04 AM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:


Hi,

There are probably as many ways to shorten those screws as there are
screws to be shortened and hams to shorten them. I installed a hex nut
on each screwand ran it up against the head of the screw. I clamped the
nut in a bench vise and filed the screw down to size. That took about
one minute at most. Finer file then beveled the ragged edge. Removing
the nut cleaned up the ends of the threads on the way out. That beveled
edge around the circumference of the screw makes it much easier to start
the screw into the threaded hole at assembly time. I hope this help
somebody who does not have the means to buy a special purpose tool for
cutting and rethreading M3 screws. Files can be re-used for many other
jobs. That $pecial tool can only be used to shorten M3 screws.

73,

Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/8/20 9:47 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
> Some Champ-type crimpers also have screw cutting holes. Some are also
> metric screw cutters. I shop flea markets for crimpers.
>
> On Monday, June 8, 2020, 9:06:20 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell
> <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> The real problem is the screws reach the bottom of the hole in the
> standoff they screw into before the head ever gets to the front panel..
> No matter how much of the head you remove the screw will still be too
> long. When you saw a limb off from a tree be sure to sit on the trunk
> side of the cut instead of the outer side of your cut.
>
> 73,
>
> Bill  KU8H
>
> bark less - wag more
>
> On 6/8/20 8:14 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
>  > If the screen mounting screw headss are standing out from the surface
>  > too much, I'll run a countersink by hand and make it deeper. This should
>  > cure that problem.
>  >
>  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:50:15 PM EDT, rpremo <rpremo@...
> <mailto:rpremo@...>> wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  > Here's three issues I am having with full kit case , screws....1. Part
>  > inventory needed screws dont screw all the way. 2. Screen doesnt mount
>  > securely its lloose which is a problem for touch display 3. Design of
>  > screen in relation to volume knob sets up for the screw to secure screen
>  > interfering with turning knob couple with short volume shaft makes a
>  > knob not likely possible to secure
>  >
>
>
>
>




Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Guy WB7SZI
 

Allard,
Did the voltage checks on A0. In RX and TX I’m seeing 5 volts. So I may have an issue with A0 input pin.

-Guy


Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Guy WB7SZI
 

Thanks Allard. I’ll check those voltages on A0.
appreciate your help.

-Guy  WB7SZI 

 


Re: v6 with a 7" Nexion nx80 #ubitxv6 #nextion

Mark Hatch
 

There are some Nextion 7" screen software in the files section. Not sure if anybody has actually tried them out. Look under AJ6CU. But there may be others. Since the 7 is the same resolution as the 5", if 5" works on. v6, then the 7" should work too. (with the right firmware, the Nextion firmware is specific to the screen and enhanced/basic gpu), 

Mark


Re: #v6 For sale, #v6

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

I am voting with Dean. I have built some stuff before. I was looking for a platform to get a good grasp of microcontrolers in radio gear and have a new radio in the shack with general coverage receive and do SSB/CW on the air. The uBitX ticked all the boxes. I have a V3 and it gets used:) If you want a plug n play radio with all the bells n whistles and every mode known to man you should buy a YaeComWood or EleCraft, etc (I have a Kenwood, some Heath, and Johnson gear). The radio does what it promises. Enjoy.

73,

Bill KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/9/20 11:54 AM, Dean Souleles wrote:
HI Bob -
I think you are going to love your uBitx.  I have the V5 and until I built my own homebrew 40 meter transceiver it was my go-to rig - even over my Kenwood TS-450s.  I thoroughly enjoy operating it both SSB phone and digital.  With a good antenna and a good operating location you should be able to work the world.   Some folks don't seem to fully grasp is that this is not a commercial rig supported by a big company.  It is a low cost hobbyist kit rig with amazing capabilities - and all the support is right here on the board.  Even though V6 is pretty much plug and play - it is still a kit and you may need to do a little tune up work.  For me it was just calibrating the BFO- which is even easier now - there is a tool and procedure right on the HF Signals web site.  The other nice thing is that for an aspiring home-brewer the uBitx kit is a great gateway project.
I frequently listen to AM stations - since this is a general coverage receiver you should be able to tune stations just about anywhere on the HF bands.   It is still single sideband but it sounds surprisingly good.  If your BFO is properly calibrated when you tune to an AM station you can flip back and forth between USB and LSB and you will hear no difference at all.
As far as why some folks sell.... it's merely "different horses for different courses."  I guess not their cup of tea.
73,
Dean
KK4DAS


Re: #v6 For sale, #v6

Dean Souleles
 

HI Bob - 

I think you are going to love your uBitx.  I have the V5 and until I built my own homebrew 40 meter transceiver it was my go-to rig - even over my Kenwood TS-450s.  I thoroughly enjoy operating it both SSB phone and digital.  With a good antenna and a good operating location you should be able to work the world.   Some folks don't seem to fully grasp is that this is not a commercial rig supported by a big company.  It is a low cost hobbyist kit rig with amazing capabilities - and all the support is right here on the board.  Even though V6 is pretty much plug and play - it is still a kit and you may need to do a little tune up work.  For me it was just calibrating the BFO- which is even easier now - there is a tool and procedure right on the HF Signals web site.  The other nice thing is that for an aspiring home-brewer the uBitx kit is a great gateway project.

I frequently listen to AM stations - since this is a general coverage receiver you should be able to tune stations just about anywhere on the HF bands.   It is still single sideband but it sounds surprisingly good.  If your BFO is properly calibrated when you tune to an AM station you can flip back and forth between USB and LSB and you will hear no difference at all.

As far as why some folks sell.... it's merely "different horses for different courses."  I guess not their cup of tea.

73,
Dean
KK4DAS


Re: Volume Control Knob

Jeff Debes
 

I used a harbor freight belt sander and a grinding wheel to file the volume button down and consequently allow the set screw a much more secure position on the volume shaft.
It fits and works well now.



On Jun 8, 2020, at 8:11 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io <nocrud222@...> wrote:


When mine comes in, I may use a Harbor Freight vibrating multitool and shave a few MM off the back of the knob. Or run it on a belt sander (which may be easier and better)... Mine comes in on Friday, per shipper's good guess.

On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:43:14 PM EDT, rpremo <rpremo@...> wrote:


On related note anyone with v6 having trouble with the volume shaft being too short the knob is too close to case coupled with position of display screw which doesn't indent enough into case.  Final result is short shaft combined with screw heads on the case equal no way shipping knob on full kit will stay screwed onto shaft.

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of Bob Lunsford via groups.io <nocrud222@...>
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2020 3:12:50 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io>
Subject: [BITX20] Volume Control Knob
 
For those who are not able to easily find a knob for the volume control, her is a quick and dirty — and cheap — way to make do until one is found...

Use a screw on wire nut. I used a yellow one on a previous V4 that I had and have used this "quick fix" for knobs on other radios. Since the volume control is a type of nylon, screwing on on is ease but I suggest holding the shaft with needle nose pliars to avoid putting too much force on the internal mechanics of the volume control when putting on the wire nut. Also, a little care must be used when screwing it on to make sure the wire nut is lined up properly and not skewed.

Just an idea...

--
jeff.debes@...


Re: Bitx case design issues #ubitxv6 #parts #v6

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

There are probably as many ways to shorten those screws as there are screws to be shortened and hams to shorten them. I installed a hex nut on each screwand ran it up against the head of the screw. I clamped the nut in a bench vise and filed the screw down to size. That took about one minute at most. Finer file then beveled the ragged edge. Removing the nut cleaned up the ends of the threads on the way out. That beveled edge around the circumference of the screw makes it much easier to start the screw into the threaded hole at assembly time. I hope this help somebody who does not have the means to buy a special purpose tool for cutting and rethreading M3 screws. Files can be re-used for many other jobs. That $pecial tool can only be used to shorten M3 screws.

73,

Bill KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/8/20 9:47 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
Some Champ-type crimpers also have screw cutting holes. Some are also metric screw cutters. I shop flea markets for crimpers.
On Monday, June 8, 2020, 9:06:20 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:
Hi,
The real problem is the screws reach the bottom of the hole in the
standoff they screw into before the head ever gets to the front panel..
No matter how much of the head you remove the screw will still be too
long. When you saw a limb off from a tree be sure to sit on the trunk
side of the cut instead of the outer side of your cut.
73,
Bill  KU8H
bark less - wag more
On 6/8/20 8:14 PM, Bob Lunsford via groups.io wrote:
> If the screen mounting screw headss are standing out from the surface
> too much, I'll run a countersink by hand and make it deeper. This should
> cure that problem.
>
> On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:50:15 PM EDT, rpremo <rpremo@...
<mailto:rpremo@...>> wrote:
>
>
> Here's three issues I am having with full kit case , screws....1. Part
> inventory needed screws dont screw all the way. 2. Screen doesnt mount
> securely its lloose which is a problem for touch display 3. Design of
> screen in relation to volume knob sets up for the screw to secure screen
> interfering with turning knob couple with short volume shaft makes a
> knob not likely possible to secure
>


Re: BitX40 Dial Locked

Allard PE1NWL
 

Guy,
if it isn't really in transmit then perhaps there's something wrong with the PTTsense circuit.

see https://github.com/amunters/bitx40-raduino-v2/blob/master/PTT%20SENSE%20wiring.png

The PTTsense line is connected to pin A0 of the Arduino. Measure the voltage on A0 with a DVM.
In RX it should be LOW, it should only go HIGH  (+5V) when PTT is activated. 
If it is HIGH all the time (even when PTT is not activated), then perhaps the input pin A0 is blown.

What voltage do you have at A0 when PTT is activated (TX) and when it's NOT activated (RX)?
73 Allard PE1NWL


Re: #v6 For sale, #v6

Mike G4GOU
 

Rock of Gibraltar is in the background - about 15 miles south of me.

lexdysia - I think the brain goes at a different speed than the fingers. ;)


v6 with a 7" Nexion nx80 #ubitxv6 #nextion

rpremo
 

Anyone try this screen yet?  before you ask I bought this screen a while ago original for the bitx40 v4 had some issues on the upgrade to take the screen and eventually had a meltdown  with the board.  

So I have the screen ideas for anyone who has hacked around with this screen.  Otherwise I'll start at Nextion as a starter.

Maybe a moot point if I don't get my transmit issue resolved.