Date   

Re: Gordon Gibby digi interface with V2.2 board

 

Jack,

 Just sent you some info make sure to check junk mail, for some reason they end up there sometimes when I add docs.

73
--
David

 N8DAH
Kit-Projects.com

Shop is open!


Gordon Gibby digi interface with V2.2 board

Jack Brabham - KZ5A
 

Does anyone know where I can find documentation on the version 2.2 board?  Everything I can find refers to the V1.1 board?  I'm trying to troubleshoot a VOX circuit problem.

.73 Jack KZ5A


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

Ted
 

I'd go to kitsandparts.com and order a T200-2 torroid, then, pass your lead-in coax through it as many times as it will fit (but a minimium of 4, maybe 5, passes).  This will serve to clamp down on stray RF that may well be following the outside jacket into your radio. Place this on the coax close to the entry point into the condo.  Shipping is quick and they also have some other neat parts that you may find helpful while sequestered during the plague  :)  

As for light bulbs for testing in a pinch, I do recall using a 60-watt bulb on my Heathkit HW-60 (?) novice transmitter.  Those days were magic, seemingly. The excitement of firing up the rig - real radios glow in the dark - and banging away at code to the far reaches of the continent. It's still amazing but as a novice, it was really cool. The graphic demo with a light bulb kind of drove the point home that RF is a true energy form and that the antenna was actually DOING something even though it didn't glow.



72,

Ted
K3RTA



Justice will not come (to Athens) until those who are not injured are as indignant as those who are injured.

Thucydides



On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 10:39:35 AM EDT, McRuss via Groups.Io <wtrrtw@...> wrote:


K3RTA and the Group, DE K5FJR,

My antenna is a 'Super Antenna" clamped to the railing of my balcony.  Two radials run out and down INSIDE two gutter drains!  It is not invisible but is not too obvious (no comments from the HOA yet.)  It is tuneable for 10-40 and can be adapted for 2m and 80 - 60.  Here is the link: newsuperantenna.com
I recall using a 60 watt bulb back in the 70's for a dummy load, might try wiring up something like that.  I do think the issue is the short coax adapter I built for BNC to PL259 so I've ordered an commercial version (my supply of connectors has been depleted over the years and I couldn't find a real good one in the junk bin!)  The volume static is there during receive and seems to be when receiving a station; I can turn the volume up OK until someone speaks and then the audio causes unreadable static.  I'm hampered by being quarantined and I need a better speaker too!

--
Newbie
K5FJR


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

McRuss
 

K3RTA and the Group, DE K5FJR,

My antenna is a 'Super Antenna" clamped to the railing of my balcony.  Two radials run out and down INSIDE two gutter drains!  It is not invisible but is not too obvious (no comments from the HOA yet.)  It is tuneable for 10-40 and can be adapted for 2m and 80 - 60.  Here is the link: newsuperantenna.com
I recall using a 60 watt bulb back in the 70's for a dummy load, might try wiring up something like that.  I do think the issue is the short coax adapter I built for BNC to PL259 so I've ordered an commercial version (my supply of connectors has been depleted over the years and I couldn't find a real good one in the junk bin!)  The volume static is there during receive and seems to be when receiving a station; I can turn the volume up OK until someone speaks and then the audio causes unreadable static.  I'm hampered by being quarantined and I need a better speaker too!

--
Newbie
K5FJR


Re: #v6 need a 12v connectiion #v6

Ted
 

These points have 12V on them when in transmit mode, according to the schematic for a V4 (and should be the same for later designs):

R89, side opposite of C86

U2 Pin 3 (near the 3-pin power connector. It's little.)

R66, side opposite of R65

R84, opposite side from C83

D11 junction with C154

D12 junction with C156

D13 junction with C158


Test with a voltmeter first, of course!  Being as some fans can introduce noise into circuits from which they're powered, the latter three might be worth trying first, as they chiefly operate relays rather than tuned RF circuitry.  I took power from K1 Pin1, but that requires getting to the bottom so that's apparently out; The above points feed from that point anyway.



Ted
K3RTA


Re: v6 nextion/arduino replacement

Jack, W8TEE
 

Mornin' Evan:

The Teensy in combo with its audio board is a great platform for doing DSP. We used the 3.6 in the JackAl add-on and we do a number of DSP things with it. (You can download the manual from QRP Guys web site to get an idea of what it does.) The newer Teensy T4 is a beast, with 2Mb flash, 1Mb of SRAM, all scootin' along at 600Mhz. (For details on specs, see: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy40.html ) It is programmable within the Arduino IDE and, so far at least, most of the libraries seem to work with it. Cost is $20, so it's more than a Nano.

Jack, W8TEE




On Wednesday, April 1, 2020, 9:11:33 AM EDT, Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:


Dave does have a valid point on the future of the CEC software having a large group adding new features.  Currently though in my opinion, the CEC solution has the most features available today.  Some of these will not be possible with the limitations of the stock Nano and HMI.  Even adding a second Nano to do some of the processing tasks has not yet been documented for the v6 that I know of.  

We cannot know how things will go in the future.  Most of the current issues could be solved with an upgrade to the Nano,   Substituting a faster Teensy process with more memory and ram removes most of the Nano roadblock.  I see possibilities there, though currently only improvements int functionality like faster screen response and better "feel" of the encoder has been done with the increased capabilities so far.  There are also limits on the I/O pins on both of the systems to date, so doing DSP type of processing may only be possible with another controller.  

I would also caution that some, like myself, use even a 2.4" display (the first upgrade I did to my first v4 uBiTx).  Since it is a resistive touch input, using your fingernails does work.  You do not need the finger pad to activate a capacitor input.  The fact that I have used a resistive touch display for all of the industrial control systems that were graphic may have provided me with the experience of getting the touches correct.  Try to get a button press on even a 7" display with gloves.

I would suggest that you really think about what you want to add and do with the rig before making the choice.  If you like hacking into the programs, then any of them can work.  If it is more operating the rig, then select the features that are important to you and go from there.  If it is to work with what will be available in the future, then that is a crapshoot as I found out with the v6 release.

PLEASE remember that these are my opinions, others may be different, and that is OK with me.  There is not a right or wrong here, only personal preferences.
73
Evan
AC9TU

--
Jack, W8TEE


Re: v6 nextion/arduino replacement

Evan Hand
 

Dave does have a valid point on the future of the CEC software having a large group adding new features.  Currently though in my opinion, the CEC solution has the most features available today.  Some of these will not be possible with the limitations of the stock Nano and HMI.  Even adding a second Nano to do some of the processing tasks has not yet been documented for the v6 that I know of.  

We cannot know how things will go in the future.  Most of the current issues could be solved with an upgrade to the Nano,   Substituting a faster Teensy process with more memory and ram removes most of the Nano roadblock.  I see possibilities there, though currently only improvements int functionality like faster screen response and better "feel" of the encoder has been done with the increased capabilities so far.  There are also limits on the I/O pins on both of the systems to date, so doing DSP type of processing may only be possible with another controller.  

I would also caution that some, like myself, use even a 2.4" display (the first upgrade I did to my first v4 uBiTx).  Since it is a resistive touch input, using your fingernails does work.  You do not need the finger pad to activate a capacitor input.  The fact that I have used a resistive touch display for all of the industrial control systems that were graphic may have provided me with the experience of getting the touches correct.  Try to get a button press on even a 7" display with gloves.

I would suggest that you really think about what you want to add and do with the rig before making the choice.  If you like hacking into the programs, then any of them can work.  If it is more operating the rig, then select the features that are important to you and go from there.  If it is to work with what will be available in the future, then that is a crapshoot as I found out with the v6 release.

PLEASE remember that these are my opinions, others may be different, and that is OK with me.  There is not a right or wrong here, only personal preferences.
73
Evan
AC9TU


Re: v6 nextion/arduino replacement

_Dave_ AD0B
 

Have to ask your self why? The 2.8" nextion is really too small to touch the buttons with the fingers. Have 3 units with Nextion displays 2.8, 3.2, 3.5. The 3.5 is the only one that I  can reliably touch the small buttons. If my unit had come with a touch screen I would not have added one. The CEC firmware is not being updated any further so a dead end. 
--
73
Dave
ADOB
Raduino bracket and Ham_Made_Keys


Re: uBitx v.4 build information

Curt
 

Vic

Thanks for posting your mods, I will review and learn some more.

No 0.1 uF sounds way to large to add to c81. If a rig has a severe dip at 40m, like only 2 or 3 watts, adding something like 100 to 300 pF will improve it. Try what you have, it will vary by rig and may not be that sensitive to exact value, just like the real difference between 5 of 6 watts to be barely discernible to the receiving operator.

For v4 harmonics, either substiting axicom relays or adding a separate set of relays on a daughter board should reduce them. Axicom relays appear to also reduce leakage resulting in mixer spurious, on some of our tested units. Others add shielded inductors at l5 and l7. Note harmonics impact bands 20m and below, and mixer spurs on 17m and above.

73 curt wb8yyy


SolderSmoke Podcast #220 is available: S-38s, Digital VFOs, Homebrew SSB, FT-8 or Ft-Fake?

Bill Meara
 


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Ted,

I have used incandescent bulbs as dummy loads too. I did that a lot with vacuum tube finals but it works for solid state too. Not only is it *not* a 50 ohm resistive load but the impedance changes dramatically from cold filament to glowing hot filament. Yet - it works.

If you have a light bulb connected to a transceiver (or just your receiver) you will be able to hear many of the stronger signals and they can hear your transmitter too. I have a nice, 100 watt, shielded, 50 ohm resistive dummy load. I can hear a few signals in the receiver with that dummy load and I expect others can hear my transmitter if us light it up. Hams have conducted QSOs on dummy loads. Some of our outdoor antennas are pretty much dummy loads too. Always check for a clear frequency before you start testing your transmitter - even with a dummy load.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 3/31/20 8:10 PM, Ted via Groups.Io wrote:
Oh, and for a dummy load in a pinch [at these power levels], get an 1157 tail light bulb and solder both filaments (pin) & shell (earth) to a male BNC or whatever you're using.
I wouldn't keep it key-down for more than 10-15 seconds; it's not necessarily a well-matched load but it will give the energy someplace to go AND you get visual proof of life.
Ted
K3RTA
--
bark less - wag more


Re: uBitx v.4 build information

Vic WA4THR
 

I have a v4 uBitX and have made a number of mods that I described and posted with links here:

http://www.ecars7255.com/Ham%20Projects/WA4THR/uBitX%20radio%20mods.pdf

Hope you find that useful, I really enjoy my rig. I still need to address the low CW power on 40m, but I think a 0.1uf cap paralleled across C81 has been suggested as a fix, so that is on the list.

=Vic=


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

Ted
 

Oh, and for a dummy load in a pinch [at these power levels], get an 1157 tail light bulb and solder both filaments (pin) & shell (earth) to a male BNC or whatever you're using.

I wouldn't keep it key-down for more than 10-15 seconds; it's not necessarily a well-matched load but it will give the energy someplace to go AND you get visual proof of life.


Ted
K3RTA


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

Ted
 

K5FJR de K3RTA,

This static of which you speak, is it there mainly when you're transmitting, or at any time? I ask, because it smacks of RF infiltration (or "leakage).

Your other rigs may not have this problem because of more commercial-grade internal shielding or other refinements that are above the price point of a good seed kit like uBitx. 

May I ask the antenna design? I'm mainly curious because you've got a WORKING condo antenna, apparently (uBitx RF issues aside).  I'm trying to get a condo-owning friend to believe she Can do HF from her place.

For yourself, an end-fed half wave using very fine magnet or choke coil wire out to a tree or hanging down against a brick wall might be worth trying, partly because I've been playing with such designs and they seem fine from an RF intrusion point of view. 

So HW?

Ted
K3RTA


Re: v6 lock up (one way of spelling it!!)

McRuss
 

Dave, my V6 was doing exactly what your is when I first put power to it.  Then I found out I had the encoder connected to the board and not to the arduino.  You may have checked that but it was not clear in the build directions and I know others have hooked it up wrong too.  The connector on the arduino and the board are the same (I'm not sure what the one on the board is for....remote USB ?)
--
Newbie but getting there, Russ
K5FJR


Re: v6 nextion/arduino replacement

Evan Hand
 

The short answer is yes.  Here is a link to someone who has done that.  The only issue was alignment of the Nextion screen holes, and he was able to work around by enlarging some of the holes.  He did not elaborate which ones.

http://ubitx.net/2020/01/06/a-v6-nextion-display-conversion/

BTW, ubitx.net is another good source for information on the uBiTx modes and source files.

73
Evan
AC9TU


Re: TX relay problem

Evan Hand
 

Dr. M T Thomas,

What you describe is a common problem with the uBiTx line of transceivers.  It is most often caused by RF getting into the rig, most likely from either the microphone cord or the coax shield. The best way to verify is to connect to an RF dummy load and see if it happens then.  If it does not stick in transmit mode, then it is RF getting back into the microcontroller.

Two solutions and both can be done.
1 - Put a common mode choke or snap-on ferrite in or on the coax from the antenna.  This is to keep RF out of the radio/shack.
2 - Put a snap-on ferrite on the microphone cord just before the plug and/or add 0.1 uF bypass capacitors on the PTT and microphone input.

Also, be sure that you have good earth ground on the case of the uBiTx.

It always helps to include the version of BiTx when asking for help on this site.  There are multiple models and versions of the BiTx radios, and the best solution can be based on which one you have the issue with.

Hope this helps.
73
Evan
AC9TU


v6 nextion/arduino replacement

dave <dgclifford@...>
 

is it possibble to replace the screen /ardino with a 2.8 "nextion and a new aruino then use  cec 's software  dave c


Re: v6 lock up (one way of spelling it!!)

dave <dgclifford@...>
 

many thanks evan


Re: My new V6 and what I learned from this group

McRuss
 

Thanks for the suggestions.  As for RF leakage, I'm in a situation where my dummy load is in a different state so can't do that.  I also have an issue with grounding since I'm in a condo with limited access to 'ground.'  But my other HF rigs seem to be OK with the same feed line. 

And I'd like to get a new volume control but with nothing being shipped from India at this time (and who knows for how long), that is probably out of the question.  I've inspected the solder on the control and they look fine under magnification.  Not a difficult job to replace if/when that becomes a viable option.  In the mean time, I'm trying to find a good speaker as that MIGHT be part of the volume issue.  I'm going to try spraying the control next to see if that will help.

Thanks again, this group is a great source of info for us, especially those with limited technical knowledge.
--
Newbie
K5FJR