Date   
Re: Size and type of USB program cable

N0YWB
 

Most Arduino Nano boards use a USB mini receptacle, so that is the receptacle on the uBITx v6 chassis. note: Auduino Nanos are now available with micro USB and USB C connectors.
 
You will need a USB A to mini USB adapter cable, available at most derpartment stores.
Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372572584649
 
Mini USB is obsolete. It was quickly superceded by the slimmer micro USB,
Micro USB is what you see on the majority of Android phones and notebook computers today.
 
Micro USB has recently been superceded by the USB C connector. 
USB C has twice as many contacts and an oval shell,
so it does not matter which way is up and is less prone to damage than the micro USB.
USB C is also designed to handle 20 Amperes at 5 Volts.
New devices will use USB C, like the Raspberry Pi 4 and nanoVNA.
Micro USB to Type C adapters are inexpensive 
Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/352721046229
 
A micro USB connector has a fifth contact, used to determine host or device role.
A USB "On the Go" (OTG) adapter can turn a USB device to a USB host
Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/312633558827
 
Note that the Teensy 4.0 micro upgrade for the uBITx v6 has a micro USB connector. 
I recently bought a digi card for my uBITX v6 that has a USB B chassis receptacle.
Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/391913912457
 
To support experimenting, buy a set of USB connector adapters. 
 

Re: winlink error on TX #v4 #cat #digital

Don - KM4UDX
 

Gary, Andy, + ....given droves of uBITX WSJTX  users enjoy reliable CAT PTT  for  FT8 all over the world, it is clear uBITX PTT USB is reliable.  Ditto for all the 24/7 uBITX WSPR mode obsessive  fanatics (why are you looking at me?). Essentially, all our digital mode uBITX operations are possible BECAUSE of rock solid uBITX CEC USB PTT. Ditto for all you Fldigi fans out there with your chatty PSK31, Olivia, Contestia, etc digital modes: you all took USB PTT to the bank. 

Not so much Winlink. The going in assumption was that we've screwed up some winlink/winmore config setting. I have lots of (recurring) documented user error supporting the notion that the operator (me) screwed something up, as normal. Trust me this is the safe bet. Hahahha. 

But after lots of trial and error and community engagement, the problem may be some subtle or peculiar winlink/winmor USB PTT implementation. 

Who knows.  I continue to noodle around the winlink settings. Stumbling over settings like a drunken sailor is more productive than you'd think.  Hahah. 

If you don't mind feeling like a prisoner in a cruel Turkish jail for hash smuggling, you can grind through every possible setting permutation. Untill you randomly find the right combination.  This process works wonders when I have to hack my own passwords. Hahaha.

If someone can figure out the secret uBITX / winlink handshake, there will be a few very appreciative folks out here. Well me anyway. Hahah.

Don
Km4udx

Re: uBitx v6 jacks on purchased enclosure

Bill
 

Giant-size version of the board picture with jacks labeled is here:
https://groups.io/g/BITX20/files/V6_PCB_Photos

Re: new V6 owner with a few basic questions on wiring and software #v6

tim.schubeck@...
 

Thanks,

I tried to upload the new firmware but following Ashhar's video does not seem to work for the board supplied in the unit.

I did successfully upload the sketch to another Arduino I had but that one has the male pins on the opposite side of the board and has female on the side that would plug onto the Raduino so I can't use it...

Following his video, I see in his tools drop down "Programmer: Arduino Gemma", yet I do not have that option. No other option works, and I always get an error that it cannot communicate with Programmer Ar--something or other.  I am not super familiar with all the terms, but it seems the Arduino IDE cannot communicate with the board MAYBE because it needs a Bootloader installed??? this from searching their help section. I hate to burn a bootloader to the stock unit without knowing if it will work, or erase the program or what. Maybe he burned these with a bootloader not included or compatible with the Arduino IDE?

anyhow, I did get the unit fired up this morning but have a screech coming from the speaker until you turn the volume at least half way up then it goes away. Unfortunately, even at full volume it is barely audible unless you put your ear within inches of the speaker.

I will try a different power supply and speaker and see how it goes.

Anyone else have problems using the IDE to communicate with the board? (I tried 6 different cables, don't think it's that as it does ID the board, port works, etc.)

Thanks again!!

Re: uBitx v6 tx "sticky" on 20 meter and high

 

Rene,

Such problems are caused by RF radiating inside the box.

See the main boarded is properly grounded. Shorten any long wires to a little more than needed.
remove any unused wires from connector by releasing the catch tab and pulling gently.

Add ferrite beads on internal wires. You can also use clamp on ferrites.

Raj

At 26-02-20, you wrote:
Hello, i hav a V6 and at the moment is the use for listening to FT8 and some phone. When I put the radio on a dummyload, then it seems the tx button keep on tranmit, even when i release the mic. After a few time push on tx, then it release and is on rx again. How come?? Maybe relay hanging??
Regards
Rene

uBitx v6 tx "sticky" on 20 meter and high

Rene
 

Hello, i hav a V6 and at the moment is the use for listening to FT8 and some phone. When I put the radio on a dummyload, then it seems the tx button keep on tranmit, even when i release the mic. After a few time push on tx, then it release and is on rx again. How come?? Maybe relay hanging??
Regards
Rene

Re: winlink error on TX #v4 #cat #digital

Andy_501 <andrew.webb.501.ve4per@...>
 

what module in the IDE source file views contains CAT emulation and control? How does it key the PTT? send an active output signal to a pin that is wired to internal PTT line??

On 2020-02-25 10:13 p.m., Gary Anderson wrote:
Sorry to be short on my previous post.  Only had a few minutes yesterday, and I thought better to send a hint, than to withhold a hint.
I don't know jack about Winlink! It seems a bit strange that PTT would be handled by CAT/ software for an optimized digital mode. 
I know someone said CAT PTT is handled. (could be!)  Well, did you sniff the com port and see if the CAT PTT command was actually sent?
Quick look at the CEC code and the generic ACK '0x0' word doesn't match the FT-XXX expected response..... I still would think that PTT CAT command would have had to gone out once to test for the reply. 
Just thinking about the reported problem,
Gary

.. 

Re: uBitx v6 jacks on purchased enclosure

Evan Hand
 

Check this message thread.  In one of the posts a a picture of the board with the jacks labeled.
https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/new_inexperienced_technically/71340334?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,0,40,71340334

Hope this helps
73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

 

Hi Andy,

Looks like I got company.. similar event. Lightening struck my opposite house barbed wire wall post but dod not touch the
electrical transformer just a couple of feet away.

We saw a orange ball lightening out side my shack window.

The landline, modem, lan connected PC and even my Ac - all blown. Rigs survived!

A "lightening arrestor" to discharge the static away from a shack is a wise move.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
Not recently, but yes I did in late summer 2018. I am inclined to believe it was kind of a multiple associated hit of side forks from a main fork that struck all rooftop antennas (SAT TV, Inet Radio Link, OTA rooftop TV antenna and possibly a ham antenna) simultaneously. I don't think it was a full hit of a main lightning bolt because likely that would have set fire to my residence as well.

 It took out ISP's POE internet antenna interface unit, two HDMI input ports one each in two smart TV's, two wired ethernet NIC cards in two separate PC's , and two video adapter display output ports on another two PC's (network file share server and NLE editing workstation).

My main ham PC USB onboard interfaces/hub disabling the PC entirely (had to replace it) the main LR TV satellite TV receiver, a yamaha two channel USB audio mixer, a Yaesu CAT cable and a SignalinkUSB sound device and I suspect RF input to my FT857. It took almost 6-8 months to find each of the failed components and replace them one at a time and get back to now where it is almost all, except for the possible protector block in the coax switch, to serviceable. Ham PC new one is a refurbished one about $275 Cdn, FT857 repairs $300 + shipping both ways, Yamaha mixer and Sat TV receiver were under warranty, SignalinkUSB was $175 + $75 for replacement PCB for damaged one (so I could repair it myself but didn't find out I could until after a replacement unit was paid for and shipped to me) .

I was sitting in an armchair at 3:00 AM reading when the bolt struck, and I could tell by the sound of it that likely something might be affected, but had no idea how extensive the final end effects were going to be.

Home network ethernet cables close by runs of audio and USB cables and because it was all close to the ham PC onboard USB hub and network cabling the one hit was able to be induced into so many places because of so many interconnections.

It was not apparent immediately that there was widespread damage to so many components but it did demonstrate how it's effects can be transmitted/induced in so many directions at once and being like a major static discharge any module with any CMOS components at all can be damaged and not show up for a long time.

I had worked in electronics and communications facilities for 35 yrs and never seen such widespread damage as this anywhere. Usually it was just replacing carbon protector blocks or heat coils in landline termination points and reboot a system to be back in business; no such luck in this case.

When I had the SAT TV dish and receiver installed the Bell service tech did not install a ground; I had to fight with Bell engineering management to get them to install one and even then they only put in a 40' run of #16 guage insulated hookup wire as a ground when it should have been in my opinion #6 bare copper stranded ground cable. But then who am I right?

Lightning is very weird, expensive and not a ham's friend at all.





On 2020-02-25 4:58 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Seriously, did you have a thunderstorm ?

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
Yes I was wondering about something like a lightning hit blowing the surge protector built into the switch so went to check and discovered the radio doesn't even turn on now so tomorrow likely I will have to replace a fuse in the external power supply; just hope the rig wasn't damaged. GRRRRRR I was just getting close enough to try a QSO or two.


On 2020-02-25 1:22 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

Remove the jumper cable between the coax switch and the rig and check for a short.
Happened to me..

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: Frequency and BFO alignment of uBITX v6

RussB
 

I watched the videos this morning and received my V6 this afternoon.  So, this weekend I will have a chance to do some tinkering.

I checked the website for final stage power adjustment t on the transmitter.  I didn't find anything.  Can I use the same instructions for a V5 or V4?
Thanks,

Russ  WD9DD

uBitx v6 jacks on purchased enclosure

Larry Mittman
 

I just purchased my full kit uBitx v6, and I find a small problem. None of the plug jacks are labeled! As I have great difficulty ready the schematic, how eo I know what plugs into which jack?  This goes for both the front and rear panels.
Until this gets answered, all I have is a brick.  Please reply asap.
Thank you very much.

Larry Mittman N8MGU

Re: winlink error on TX #v4 #cat #digital

Gary Anderson
 

Sorry to be short on my previous post.  Only had a few minutes yesterday, and I thought better to send a hint, than to withhold a hint.
I don't know jack about Winlink! It seems a bit strange that PTT would be handled by CAT/ software for an optimized digital mode. 
I know someone said CAT PTT is handled. (could be!)  Well, did you sniff the com port and see if the CAT PTT command was actually sent?
Quick look at the CEC code and the generic ACK '0x0' word doesn't match the FT-XXX expected response..... I still would think that PTT CAT command would have had to gone out once to test for the reply. 
Just thinking about the reported problem,
Gary

.. 

Re: Size and type of USB program cable

support@...
 

Hello Ralph,

It is a Mini Type B USB cable.

Hope that helps.

Thomas
--
Support@...

Re: new V6 owner with a few basic questions on wiring and software #v6

support@...
 

Hello Tim,

Yes the jam nut for the volume control is not needed for the V6 Full Kit but has been included anyway just in case one would want to change the front panel. This is a part of the standard Basic kit and we have also included it for the Full Kit that comes with an additional case as well. But its not needed.

Hope that helps.

Regards,

Thomas
--
Support@...

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Maurice Bersan <Vk6hly@...>
 

Solved!
Thanks to all who helped.
It turned out to be my manual antenna tuner not being able to tune in MW. I connected my antenna straight in to my ubitx and all those MW broadcast stations came to life.
Someone on this forum did mention my antenna, I should of listened earlier. 
Cheers
Maurice
Vk6hly

Re: Frequency and BFO alignment of uBITX v6

Ashhar Farhan
 

Hmm.. I should have thought of that! 


On Wed 26 Feb, 2020, 2:31 AM Reed N, <greenkid336600+groupsio@...> wrote:
Great video! Clear visuals and explanations.

One detail that probably would be good to add is about the side band inversion if the BFO is tuned "backwards".


Reed

Re: uk builders

Ben Holmes
 

I just bought this one from Ebay for just under $30. It's rather large, and my intent is to have a lot of fun with mods... this will give me plenty of room. Perhaps bigger than you would want, depending on what you're looking for.

Do a search for this:

Blue Metal Electronic Enclosure Project Case DIY Junction Box 310 x 285 x 115mm
:

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

Andy_501 <andrew.webb.501.ve4per@...>
 

Sat down to give some troubleshooting efforts a whirl and darn just started working normally again ; hard to troubleshoot something intermittent like that. GRRRR

On 2020-02-25 11:38 a.m., Andy_501 via Groups.Io wrote:
Not recently, but yes I did in late summer 2018. I am inclined to believe it was kind of a multiple associated hit of side forks from a main fork that struck all rooftop antennas (SAT TV, Inet Radio Link, OTA rooftop TV antenna and possibly a ham antenna) simultaneously. I don't think it was a full hit of a main lightning bolt because likely that would have set fire to my residence as well.

  It took out ISP's POE internet antenna interface unit, two HDMI input ports one each in two smart TV's, two wired ethernet NIC cards in two separate PC's , and two video adapter display output ports on another two PC's (network file share server and NLE editing workstation).

My main ham PC USB onboard interfaces/hub disabling the PC entirely (had to replace it) the main LR TV satellite TV receiver, a yamaha two channel USB audio mixer, a Yaesu CAT cable and a SignalinkUSB sound device and I suspect RF input to my FT857.  It took almost 6-8 months to find each of the failed components and replace them one at a time and get back to now where it is almost all, except for the possible protector block in the coax switch, to serviceable. Ham PC new one is a refurbished one about $275 Cdn, FT857 repairs $300 + shipping both ways, Yamaha mixer and Sat TV receiver were under warranty, SignalinkUSB was $175 + $75 for replacement PCB for damaged one (so I could repair it myself but didn't find out I could until after a replacement unit was paid for and shipped to me) .

I was sitting in an armchair at 3:00 AM reading when the bolt struck, and I could tell by the sound of it that likely something might be affected, but had no idea how extensive the final end effects were going to be.

Home network ethernet cables close by runs of audio and USB cables and because it was all close to the ham PC onboard USB hub and network cabling the one hit was able to be induced into so many places because of so many interconnections.

It was not apparent immediately that there was widespread damage to so many components but it did demonstrate how it's effects can be transmitted/induced in so many directions at once and being like a major static discharge any module with any CMOS components at all can be damaged and not show up for a long time.

I had worked in electronics and communications facilities for 35 yrs and never seen such widespread damage as this anywhere. Usually it was just replacing carbon protector blocks or heat coils in landline termination points and reboot a system to be back in business; no such luck in this case.

When I had the SAT TV dish and receiver installed the Bell service tech did not install a ground; I had to fight with Bell engineering management to get them to install one and even then they only put in a 40' run of #16 guage insulated hookup wire as a ground when it should have been in my opinion #6 bare copper stranded ground cable. But then who am I right?

Lightning is very weird, expensive and not a ham's friend at all.





On 2020-02-25 4:58 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Seriously, did you have a thunderstorm ?

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
Yes I was wondering about something like a lightning hit blowing the surge protector built into the switch so went to check and discovered the radio doesn't even turn on now so tomorrow likely I will have to replace a fuse in the external power supply; just hope the rig wasn't damaged. GRRRRRR I was just getting close enough to try a QSO or two.


On 2020-02-25 1:22 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

Remove the jumper cable between the coax switch and the rig and check for a short.
Happened to me..

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: Size and type of USB program cable

Ben Holmes
 

This is what I bought from Ebay - cost $3.89:

USB CAMERA CABLE 6FT CORD USB 2.0 HIGH SPEED TYPE A MALE TO MINI-B 5P MALE

If you search for that phrase, you should find just what you need.

 

Re: #ubitxv6 frequency calibration #ubitx #v6 #calibration #ubitxv6

Reed N
 

Hi Felipe,

If you haven't already, check out Ashhar's new video tutorial: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/76434


Reed