Date   
Re: Small change, huge thanks to Ashhar

Reed N
 

I agree that it's a good way to be, but it's been "fixed" for a while now. According to the git history, the ino/cpp change was done back in Dec 17, 2019.

He also mentioned the change to you specifically back in January: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/75176


Reed

Size and type of USB program cable

Ralph King
 

Just got my BITX V6 today.  Put it together and it works just fine. I have one question.
On the USB program cable that plugs into the back, what size and type plug do I need ? 
I looked in my drawer of cables, and all of the plugs that I have are too small to fit.

Thanks in advance

Ralph  K1KOB  r.rking41@... 

Re: Small change, huge thanks to Ashhar

Jack, W8TEE
 

All:

If you are an early adopter of the V6 µBITX code, you may want to get the new download, too. Ashhar went through the trouble to upgrade the new version of the software to convert all of the old *.ino files to *.cpp files. This may not seem like a big deal, but it is! There are several benefits to the change.

First, while there has always been multiple source code files in his project, now only one file ends in *.ino. This means two things: 1) the project's ino file is the "primary file" in that it contains both setup() and loop(), the program's main entry point, and 2) the project's directory MUST be the same as the primary file name. That is, if the ino file is ubitx_v6.3_code.ino, the directory for the project must be ubitx_v6.3_code.

Second, the huge win is for those who like playing around with the code, since this new file-naming convention allows the IDE compiler to perform incremental compiles. For example, when I was compiling the 19-file, 11,000+ lines of code in the JackAl project, the first compile in the morning would take a little over a minute on a pretty fast computer (i.e., 3.8Mhz, 8-core with 32Gb of memory). The first compile clears the "dirty flag" in the IDE for each of the source files. Next I would start editing the nettlesome file that is giving me problems and re-compile the project. However, since I only worked on one source code file, only that file has its dirty flag set, so it is the only file that gets recompiled. The linker then merges this newly compiled file with the previously-compiled intermediate files to form the executable for upload to the Nano (or whatever chip). For me, this drops the recompile time from over a minute to less than 10 seconds. If I can save 50 seconds on each compile and a typical day produces 40 recompiles, that saves me over 30 minutes of thumb-twiddling each day! Do that for 19 months, and it's almost enough time for a two-week vacation!

This seemingly-small change by Ashhar simply adds yet another element to the µBITX for which we need to thank him.

Jack, W8TEE

On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 7:45:15 AM EST, Mick <mgsebele@...> wrote:


Thanks Ashhar!
excellent videos they will really help us newbies.
73
Mick VA3EPM 

--
Jack, W8TEE

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Maurice Bersan <Vk6hly@...>
 


Dean, I tried your demo but no luck. Still won't tune down that far.
I will have a look around memory manager next chance I get.
Thanks
Maurice

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Evan Hand
 

Dean,

Forgot about the direct frequency input on the CEC/Nextion.  Much easier than all that dial turning.  Only issue is it is not available for the stock 2 line display version of the software.

Thank-you for pointing the shortcut out!

73
Evan
AC9TU

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Dean Souleles
 

Hi Maurice,

I can't help you without more information.  What specifically is not working?

The video shows that it can work and does for me, V5, CEC 1.2 firmware and Nextion display.  I believe there may be a setting in uBitx memory manager to allow tuning outside the ham bands, but I don't have time to research it this morning.

73,
Dean
KK4DAS

Re: Uploading firmware to ubitx

Mick
 

Thanks Ashhar!
excellent videos they will really help us newbies.
73
Mick VA3EPM 

new V6 owner with a few basic questions on wiring and software #v6

tim.schubeck@...
 

Hi, new owner and just received my uBitx V6 unit yesterday.

I have a few questions as most of the information is for the older versions.

1. power supply: Do I need to add a diode to the board for reverse polarity protection or is there already one on the board since the power receptacle is already surface mounted? (assume I do need to add an inline fuse, i'm using a 3amp 12v wall wart from a hard drive enclosure but have other supply options--but the wall wart already has the correct wired plug end so it's quicker).

2. speaker: I assumed the included baofeng mic would double as the speaker (like it does on the UV5R HT's) but it appears to have the 2nd jack removed and rewired for mic only. I have an 8 ohm 2 or 3 inch speaker from a radio or something I salvaged I plan to use, is that too much speaker? or would I be better off using one half of a pair of amplified computer speakers/

3. Software: I see a lot of reference to replacement firmware. not sure which one to use; it appears CEC_V1.200 is the latest? if so, not sure which version in the zip file I should use for the stock V6 display--is it the Nextion version or one of the others?

I have several Arduino Nano's, I will likely just program one with the new firmware and pull the original for safe keeping. i've only uploaded code from the Arduino compiler, but the other is HEX, I assume there is there a guide to uploading the HEX?

Thanks for any input, i'm looking forward to playing around with this over the next few days.

oh one last thing, is it normal the volume control doesn't stick out far enough to use the nut on the threads? since it is mounted on the board with the end of the threads flush with the display (ie. it is set back from the edge a good 1/8") there is no way to fit the nut on the face plate...

Thanks again,
Tim WB8IZB

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

 

Seriously, did you have a thunderstorm ?

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
Yes I was wondering about something like a lightning hit blowing the surge protector built into the switch so went to check and discovered the radio doesn't even turn on now so tomorrow likely I will have to replace a fuse in the external power supply; just hope the rig wasn't damaged. GRRRRRR I was just getting close enough to try a QSO or two.


On 2020-02-25 1:22 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

Remove the jumper cable between the coax switch and the rig and check for a short.
Happened to me..

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Uploading firmware to ubitx

Ashhar Farhan
 

Many people have asked for a video to show how to download, install the ubitx source code and upload it. It is quite easy and I have a video showing you how to do it.
Let me know if I have skipped anything.

Frequency and BFO alignment of uBITX v6

Ashhar Farhan
 

I have made a video that shows how BFO and Frequency calibration works. You have to do both together. Watch the video. Let me know if there are any gotachs (I got the frequency of AIR wrong)


- f

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

Andy_501 <andrew.webb.501.ve4per@...>
 

Yes I was wondering about something like a lightning hit blowing the surge protector built into the switch so went to check and discovered the radio doesn't even turn on now so tomorrow likely I will have to replace a fuse in the external power supply; just hope the rig wasn't damaged. GRRRRRR I was just getting close enough to try a QSO or two.

On 2020-02-25 1:22 a.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

Remove the jumper cable between the coax switch and the rig and check for a short.
Happened to me..

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

 

Andy,

Remove the jumper cable between the coax switch and the rig and check for a short.
Happened to me..

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

Andy_501 <andrew.webb.501.ve4per@...>
 

The rig goes through a coax switch which I can select a 40 M Hamstick whip, a 20 M small loop antenna, and/or 100 W 50 Ohm dummy load. Doesn't matter which ant is selected same situation so it would seem voltage difference would be the most likely place to start.

Power supply is plugged into UPS but antenna grounds are all direct to a dedicated ground rod for radio gear alone. So might be a potential difference between radio ground rod and electrical utility ground rods.

Thanks for the tip Raj

On 2020-02-24 10:50 p.m., Raj vu2zap wrote:
Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Maurice Bersan <Vk6hly@...>
 

Sorry Dean that method does not work for mine.

Re: RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

 

Andy,

I suspect that your antenna cable is shorted or there is a voltage difference between
your ground and your power supply -ve

When partially plugged in the system behaves like a long wire.

See if your antenna is working with another radio.

Raj

At 25-02-20, you wrote:
I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

RX #V6 quits working when ant coax braid is connected #v6

Andy_501 <andrew.webb.501.ve4per@...>
 

I finished setting up the rig and moved it into the shack to put it on full blown antenna expecting some better signals that the minor few available from the temp mag mount HF vert on metal deep freeze lid conterpoise.

When center conductor is inserted 60-80 % inserted signals are evident and AM broadcast stations within 100 mi are easily received and BFO calibration can be adjusted properly. But as soon as the connector is fully inserted in antenna and ground braid makes solid connection signals disappear on all bands and there seems to be a flicker in the display. On a couple of occasions the display completely blanks and goes white. Power off reset then restores display but not the signals until coax outer conductor is disconnected. Seems like some sort of ground loop almost connecting through the input????


Any pointers??

Andy VE4PER

Re: V5 not receiving local am stations

Dean Souleles
 

Hi gents,

V5 with CEC firmware and Nextion and you can direct tune to any frequency in the AM broadcast band. Thus:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/icraDtzkxDhQidML7

Cheers and 73,
Dean
KK4DAS

Re: Tuning knob

Jack, W8TEE
 

I think the Bourns encoders without switches are pretty good. The Mouser PEC11L-4120F-N0020 is a 20 ppr with no switch, panel mount with nut (many are not panel mount) for about $1.85 quantity 1. I buy the NO push button switches in bulk (e.g., Amazon B07BD2D96W) for about $.50 each. So far, I have had good luck with both.

Jack, W8TEE


On Monday, February 24, 2020, 7:47:51 PM EST, Gigabyte <steven.b.hoff@...> wrote:


Thanks Jack. Do you have some links to the particular switches and/or encoders you like? 

Steven, N9FC

--
Jack, W8TEE

Re: TSW Teensy 4.0 software with RTC Now available #ubitx #v6

Paul KL7FLR
 

Hi Jim,

Loaded up TSW ver 1.05 last week and everything seems to work just fine. I do like the RTC feature as well. I went to the local industrial hardware store to get some sanding belts and while standing at the checkout they had a display of batteries and had the 2032 coin cells in a 2 pack for $2.39. Heck, couldn’t pass that up so bought them also.

 

Turned out a quick battery holder in a couple of hours, had to think up a design first.  Using a scrap piece of 3/8” thick aluminum plate on a miniature face plate made a cavity that was about .025” larger than the coin cell. A little 3mm tapping in the dead center allowed the holder to be screwed onto one of the existing display mounting studs for the ground connection.   A small of Kydex plastic .250” wide and .125” thick made a nice holder strap. A 4-40 brass screw with the head sanded to a flat surface in the center made the + contact to the cell.  Soldered a single terminal post to the V-Bat connection and used a short wire soldered to the brass positive contact. Had to insulate the positive cell case with some electrical tape. Viola, life is good.

 

I’ve noticed that the RTC keeps excellent time +- 1 second after connecting the battery.  Even off for 24 hours the time is within a second. Now if there were just a way of setting it accurately other than trying to the enter button at the right time when listening to WWV or my computer clock.

73

Paul

KL7FLR