Date   
Re: 80 Meters Harmonics Fix Proposal

jim
 

Ok   I did replace the electrolytics as can be seen from the picture ..It is effectively a center tap  I wanted tighter coupleing between the two windings ....The reason why you feed from the center tap is because the elecrtomagnetic field set up by the DC passing through the coil will bias the ferrite "magnetic domains" causing a shift in the B-H field resulting in loss of inductance and the generation of spurs ..Feeding the center tap - current flows up toward the "dot" or start of the top winding "left hand rule" will give you the polarity of the magnetic field around the  top coil ... current also flows through the bottom coil away from the dot or start of the bottom winding creating a magnetic field opposing the one created by the top coil ...Result no magnetic field to bias the little bitty magnets in the ferrite allowing the inductance to remain the same as without the current flow.

Try it and see. can't cost a lot .Maybe it'll work

Jim


On Monday, September 3, 2018, 6:27:45 PM PDT, Howard Fidel <sonic1@...> wrote:


Jim:
You can't argue with success! However, I don't quite understand a few things. Why remove the electrolytics, the bulk capacitance can't hurt? Why not center tap the transformer primary and feed the DC there? It should have the same result and is simpler.

Howard

On 9/3/2018 9:04 PM, jim via Groups.Io wrote:

On Monday, September 3, 2018, 11:51:11 AM PDT, Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...> wrote:


Howard

When I measured 80 meter harmonics the particularly troublesome ones were 5th at 18 MHz and 7th at 25 MHz. In both cases the attenuation of the stock uBitx at those frequencies was limited by the layout of the board and by the coupling of relays sharing both filter input and output in the same frame. In such cases the characteristics of the filters, both existing and any modifications are immaterial. The attenuation of the stock filter supplied is more than adequate. But the harmonics bypass the filter and go via I/O coupling straight to the output. Please measure the 5th and 7th harmonics on CW. I think you will find you have not done much to improve the stock situation.

WA8TOD

Just a fyi ...see the picture of the 80 meter output from my unit ...after doing the L7,L8 mod and the output transformer mod .
A whole bunch of the cruft flying around in this radio is due to L7 and L8 having DC current flowing through them ...This DC biases the ferrite (shifting the BH curve who knows where) lowering the inductance and allowing RF everywhere ..

Put a proper inductor on the IRF510's that is NOT affected by DC current flowing through it and see what you get

Jim


Re: Stone Soup

jim
 

Well, I dono ...Rigs like the uBitx are WHY I got my SA (s) and Tracking Generator ...I like to see whats happening under the hood (and why)

Jim



n Monday, September 3, 2018, 6:42:09 PM PDT, Kees T <windy10605juno.com> wrote:


Warren, don't forget the very positive moral of the "stone story": 

Moral:  By working together, with everyone contributing what they can, a greater good is achieved.

I think the uBITX has been and is a wonderful educational opportunity for all and still is a great value rig to use on the air. In all my electronic history, which goes back quite a few years, I have never seen so many people learn and contribute so much to the hobby......anywhere.

If "in the old days", enough people had access to Rigol DSA815-TG (Spectrum Analyzer and Tracking Generator) test equipment, NONE of us would have successfully built anything to get on the air and we'd all be "appliance operators".   

I. for one, am having great fun and think this is what REAL ham radio is all about.

73 Kees K5BCQ

 

Re: LCD trouble #ubitx

micah@...
 

Perfect. I indeed had it connected the wrong way. Due to my case, I had to flip the connector to the other side of the raduino board. And that means the pinout is mirrored. Works now. Thanks!

Re: Using radino from ubitx on bitx 40?

Ryan Flowers
 

I heavily modified the uBITX code to work with an Arduino and QRP Labs si5351 board, which was the easy part: The hard part was ripping out all the extra IF stuff and calibration! I'm not cut out for that part, but I figured it out with some help. The only reason I did that was because I wanted the easy USB/LSB switching but also wanted a rotary encoder. It works, but is clunky. using Allards code is a great idea :-) 

You can also use the QRP Labs VFO kit, and just invert the IF offset to get USB. Remove caps C91 and C92 to do that. 
--
Ryan Flowers - W7RLF
MiscDotGeek.com
Multi Band BITX40
The BITX40 FAQ

stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Joe Milosch <zzmiloschxx@...>
 

Hi,
My regards to the chef, on the Stone soup. :-)
I have no fancy test equipment, but I have
a working uBitx v4 board.

I've read thru all the links and emails on the current problems
with the Ubitx's spurious emissions, but can't seem to get
a clear picture of what bands and modes are legal for
transmitting in the US. The sheer number of posts
and technical data is a bit overwhelming.

Could one of you experts, make a simple text table showing
which bands and modes are acceptable on a stock board?
Something like:
This is a fake table for example.
########################
80m no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m digital fine
40m no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m digital fine
20m cw , ssb, digital
17m etc
15m etc
12m etc
10m etc
##########################

Thank you,
Joe, KN4OND

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Hi Joe

Your question illustrates the reason for my stone soup admonition.

There is no valid answer to your question without additional parameters being set that require precise measurement and monitoring. The table you ask for will be very different depending upon the power level used, the loudness of your voice and the resulting drive level on SSB, the voltage level applied to the PA, etc. The table constructed assuming a power level of 5 watts will be very different for one assuming 1.5 watts or, God forbid, 15 watts.

For those who want to experiment, find problems, devise solutions, and who are willing to defer air operations until they have ascertained their uBitx is compliant, it is a wonderful source of learning and fun in the true spirit of amateur radio. For those looking for a radio to simply package and put on the air as it stands, the uBitx is the antithesis of what ham radio should be.

There is plenty of room and their are plenty of options in our hobby for those who wish to simply operate, gather awards, rag chew, and contest. There are also many options for those who wish to build and experiment to hone their skills and to have a sense of pride and accomplishment for what they have built. The uBitx is ideal for the latter and a nightmare for the former. Neither group of amateurs, the appliance operator or the builder, are better or worse than the other and neither has the inside track on the hobby. But both need to understand what valid equipment choices are available to them.

WA8TOD

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Gordon Gibby
 

Joe, Warren published some pretty good numbers way back, and Allyson probably did also, and basically CW mode was in trouble on all the bands. Single side band not quite so much as long as you didn’t scream into the mic, or use bands higher than 14 MHz. (but still pretty close to in trouble or beyond it many places) It highly depended on how the unit was set up. Ashar Farhan indicated that units properly adjusted were compliant. Others disagreed based on measuring several production units. You, like I, would have to go back and find all their particular posts with their data, to jfind the exact claims. None of this has been adjudicated in any official proceeding.

Harmonics are a problem for most of the bands, where is spurs are an additional problem above the 20 meter band.

It seemed to me that CW was in much more trouble with harmonics, than single side band. I along with several others have introduced ways to reduce the bleed through via the relays around the excellent filters at the end of the power amplifier design. My solution seems to work, and I think others have also shown their solution works (even for the CW problem) on 20 meters & below; individual band pass filters or other solutions would be needed to fix the spur problem beyond the 20 meter band; fixes to the low pass filter do not repair that particular problem.


So I think that people who are concerned about this are going to do some sort of a filter or relay fix on the power amplifier, or replace it all together, and operate on the 20 meter and lower bands. My fix had a total cost in the range of $15 or less and an hours worth of work.

A lot of other people aren’t going to care and will use the unit as it already exists, and because it is so low powered this isnt going to cause that much trouble. It would be a different issue if they all bought high gain external amplifiers and magnified the spurs & harmonics many many times.... that would eventually get noticed


I hope that helps you. Because several people here did such a great detective work figuring out exactly what was the problem with the harmonics, fixing THAT became a rather simple affair.

I’m going to see what the postage cost would be to send out the simple external relay board that I came up with. The board itself only cost $2.50 even after DHL shipping from China. I think it can be mailed out as simple first class mail just with a “non-machinable surcharge” of $.25 or so.

The first radio I had, had severe problems, didn’t work at all, and took me months to make it work. After that it was a joy and I used to make many many contacts. Heathkit HW 16. By comparison, the uBitx is a joy! Much of life is how you look at it. Nothing is perfect, but to disparage items that do have known flaws as complete garbage, I think is an attitude that does not benefit the holder much at all. Take that as some free psychological advice.

Cheers

Gordon

On Sep 4, 2018, at 04:57, Joe Milosch <zzmiloschxx@...> wrote:

Hi,
My regards to the chef, on the Stone soup. :-)
I have no fancy test equipment, but I have
a working uBitx v4 board.

I've read thru all the links and emails on the current problems
with the Ubitx's spurious emissions, but can't seem to get
a clear picture of what bands and modes are legal for
transmitting in the US. The sheer number of posts
and technical data is a bit overwhelming.

Could one of you experts, make a simple text table showing
which bands and modes are acceptable on a stock board?
Something like:
This is a fake table for example.
########################
80m no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m digital fine
40m no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m digital fine
20m cw , ssb, digital
17m etc
15m etc
12m etc
10m etc
##########################

Thank you,
Joe, KN4OND



Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Gordon

My characterization of the uBitx as "garbage" is a term of art, not science. However, when a commercial radio is advertised as "Build the µBITX transceiver in an evening. A general coverage, 10 watts HF SSB/CW transceiver kit  with features you NEED for operating ease, convenience and versatility. It works from 3 MHz to 30 MHz, with up to 10 watts on SSB and CW, with a very sensitive receiver." it would be reasonable for operators like Joe to assume they would have a compliant radio on the air after an evening's work. This is simply untrue.

"The front-end diode mixer followed by a Hayward/Kopski TIA makes this a crisp receiver that doesn’t overload easily." Simply untrue. Using this receiver 3 miles away from a 1450 KHz AM broadcast transmitter is impossible through 20 meters due to overload. No other radio I own, including homebrew SDRs has this issue.

"10 watts of low distortion SSB provides you with enough juice to have thousands of contacts on all HF bands." Again, simply untrue. Unacceptable levels of SSB distortion begin at less than 2 watts and result in adjacent channel splatter at any level above that.

I am not bashing. As a basis for experimentation and improvement the uBitx is a treasure. As the basis for a rig to be connected up in one evening and put on the air, it is indeed "garbage".

WA8TOD

uBITX Testing Dummy Load #ubitx #kicad

Tom, wb6b
 

Hi,

So I can test my uBITX for harmonics and such, I built a "QRP+" dummy load, this weekend, with a 46 DBm attenuator on board. By mounting this to a bigger heatsink or adding fans this should be able to handle more than QRP levels of power.

The board has two 46 DBm outputs, one to a SMA connector and another to a pin row connector. In situations where I don't care about a standard 50 ohm attenuator output impedance I supply the 1 ohm (40 DBm) output to the pin connector.

The next pin up will be RF voltage, from a divide by four voltage divider feeding a 1N4148 and a bypass/filter cap to read the peak RF voltage. The uBITX is reason I'm setting up an RF workbench/lab again (and having great fun doing so). Oddly enough I don't have any 4148s in my parts box, so am ordering some before I add the RF voltage output. It will be interesting to see how flat this thing is across the HF frequencies.

I built this on a 0.025 inch thick copper sheet, and even with a 140 watt soldering gun it was a challenge to get copper hot enough to melt solder.

I laid out the main parts in KiCad, printed it out on paper and used a center punch to mark the position of the parts mounted to the copper sheet and the mounting holes. That was a refinement over the good-old-days. Really beat the old time way of tediously measuring and scratching lines on the copper. 



Tom, wb6b

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Gordon Gibby
 

I simply disagree. 

It’s all in how you look at it.  All of us have problems,  you can look at people and equipment as either half full or half empty.    Disparaging either has a bad effect.  

Apparently the advertisements neglected to point out the radio can switch frequencies and bands five times per second allowing  high speed automatic link establishment.   My expensive Icom 718 must then be “garbage”—- it simply can’t do that!    


It’s all in how you look at things.   But harshly criticizing efforts of other people does not bespeak us well.   

Free advice on how to enjoy life more fully, live longer & and avoid many conditions!

Worth all that I charged for it 

Cheers 

Gordon



On Sep 4, 2018, at 06:45, Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...> wrote:

Gordon

My characterization of the uBitx as "garbage" is a term of art, not science. However, when a commercial radio is advertised as "Build the µBITX transceiver in an evening. A general coverage, 10 watts HF SSB/CW transceiver kit  with features you NEED for operating ease, convenience and versatility. It works from 3 MHz to 30 MHz, with up to 10 watts on SSB and CW, with a very sensitive receiver." it would be reasonable for operators like Joe to assume they would have a compliant radio on the air after an evening's work. This is simply untrue.

"The front-end diode mixer followed by a Hayward/Kopski TIA makes this a crisp receiver that doesn’t overload easily." Simply untrue. Using this receiver 3 miles away from a 1450 KHz AM broadcast transmitter is impossible through 20 meters due to overload. No other radio I own, including homebrew SDRs has this issue.

"10 watts of low distortion SSB provides you with enough juice to have thousands of contacts on all HF bands." Again, simply untrue. Unacceptable levels of SSB distortion begin at less than 2 watts and result in adjacent channel splatter at any level above that.

I am not bashing. As a basis for experimentation and improvement the uBitx is a treasure. As the basis for a rig to be connected up in one evening and put on the air, it is indeed "garbage".

WA8TOD

Re: UBITX TX level diagramme

Giancarlo
 

Hi Glenn,

I have not been following 100% the group. Is n RX Level Diagram available?

Thanks and 73

Gian
I7SWX

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Gordon you have missed my point by focusing on what you call "disparagement". My "disparagement" is an attempt to inform those who expect to take the radio out of the box, connect it up and operate compliantly as is advertised. That is simply not going to happen.

If your IC-718 were presented in its brochure as being able to switch frequencies and bands five times per second then I would be calling that claim garbage as well. It is not represented that way.

Your "disparagement" is my "information". If you, in good conscience and with all you now know about the uBitx, can say you recommend it as a first or only rig to someone just starting in this hobby and without test equipment or the knowledge how to use it, then we indeed disagree. 

Similar charge for that advice. LOL. Have a great day!

WA8TOD

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

sdr freak
 

Hi!

First i want thank you for your fast answer :-) Ok i have a new question about this.. In the Wire Up Shematic v1.9 i read this:

1. "the Ubitx board should be grounded in a metal case or a common ground if using plastic case.."

2. "IRF510 tabs have DC voltage and SHOULD NOT be grounded to metal case"

3. "Rotary encoder, audio & keyer jack wires....If using metal case jack ground wires can be omitted.The SLEEVE is grounded to the case"   <-- how becomes the case ground and what's about the other jack, the mic/ptt jack and the volume switch? Means that if the GND wires from raduino/mainboard to the jack sleeves are not anymore conected when i have grounding my ubitx main board have contact if screwed together on the 4 holes with the aluminium bottom plate where it is mounted on?

And if it was my plan to make a other additional PTT-Button and Encoder-switch button, i've seen in the v1.9 shematic, how would I wire that if I put this on 'the thing with the previously mentioned sentence' in the context that "all jack are grounded over the housing"?

When the ground wires can be omitted then their must be ground on metal case.. <<---This i would realize whit a soldered cable direct from the 'black DC-input cable' which was mounted with a cableshoe
(..it say in germany "kabelschuhe") on the case with a nice brass screw. Is this right what i have say?

..and this would be my case-main-ground-port-connection-point, for other things like a back plate brass screw for ground the whole ubitx to my home, and for sure this is a must be when i was have outdoor ham sessions, so that I can ground the whole ubitx directly over the earth floor with for example a metal bar and i like to transmit with kite antenna, long wire antenna high in trees and when this doing, i read, there should be a main ground to the earth ground.

next was point 5. in den v1.9 wire up shematic, It is important to finally have clarity..ok look please here:

5. DC-power cable should be twisted.(yes i ve do this at begin of assemble ubitx with all cable) (but now this-->) The negative (Black) wire should be lager size!

On other website i have read and see this on few ubitx build's but i missing a wire up shematic which have directly draw all these or describe a little bit more information about this whole "Grounded Case Wire Up Shematic" (when i have enough knowledge about this, then my idea is to make this wire up plan..), ...so i have no idea which cable diameter should be used for this "thicker, lager sized negative black dc-power cable.." Can someone help me with the necessary data of a diameter for this cable?

Which construction idea is the best for beginner? Only use a metal case and wire up the same like describe in the v1.7/1.9 wire up shematic here: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/photo/49276/0 and ignore the informations in the plan, like i see most metal cased ubitx pics where i never see the construction instructions with the thick black DC cable, the omission of the grounding cable at the Jack-Sleeves and encoder, grounding mount screw, just everything that I ask here wasn't see at the most picture of metal cased ubitx.. but why is wrote in the wire up instructions (v1.7-1.9) about all these important hints if then almost no one does this and still the normal wiring plan is made despite the metal box, because what I mean at all are yes then this ground loops of what is being warned ... I do not understand now..

ok last point here, warning for ' be careful of groundloops'...On another page I read that it has to do with the thick black DC cable and thus diminished, but not as it is now in the exact context with the rest of the history of the cable and the word ground loops does not tell me how to classify it in Regarding my questions about the individual points .. that would just be the point why it is so important to me to get help because I could not find it to understand. Thank you

Ok these are my question.

Ah yeah.. It is really an interesting and very demanding hobby we have.. or is it just me who is think this :D yae yae yae...hard long way to get this ubitx for rx/tx function..


I hope anyone can help me :)

Best Regards Fabian



Re: UBITX TX level diagramme

Henning Weddig
 

All,
 
as I have problems to upload the pdf files  into Groups io I send them directly to the Group as an attachment. So let´s hope they will come throug!
 
Henning
DK5LV
 
-----Ursprüngliche Mitteilung-----
Von: Giancarlo via Groups.Io <i7swx@...>
An: BITX20 <BITX20@groups.io>
Verschickt: Di, 4. Sept 2018 13:11
Betreff: Re: [BITX20] UBITX TX level diagramme

McAfee-Webkontrolle – Warnung
Diese E-Mail-Nachricht enthält potenziell unsichere Links zu den folgenden Sites:
http://ubitx.net/- weitere Informationen...
Hi Glenn,

I have not been following 100% the group. Is n RX Level Diagram available?

Thanks and 73

Gian
I7SWX

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

iz oos
 

Thanks for the book. Chapter 2 is very important. If you want to use the chassis you need to be sure you insulate the tabs from the chassis.


Il 04/set/2018 13:26, "sdr freak" <sdrfreak55@...> ha scritto:
Hi!

First i want thank you for your fast answer :-) Ok i have a new question about this.. In the Wire Up Shematic v1.9 i read this:

1. "the Ubitx board should be grounded in a metal case or a common ground if using plastic case.."

2. "IRF510 tabs have DC voltage and SHOULD NOT be grounded to metal case"

3. "Rotary encoder, audio & keyer jack wires....If using metal case jack ground wires can be omitted.The SLEEVE is grounded to the case"   <-- how becomes the case ground and what's about the other jack, the mic/ptt jack and the volume switch? Means that if the GND wires from raduino/mainboard to the jack sleeves are not anymore conected when i have grounding my ubitx main board have contact if screwed together on the 4 holes with the aluminium bottom plate where it is mounted on?

And if it was my plan to make a other additional PTT-Button and Encoder-switch button, i've seen in the v1.9 shematic, how would I wire that if I put this on 'the thing with the previously mentioned sentence' in the context that "all jack are grounded over the housing"?

When the ground wires can be omitted then their must be ground on metal case.. <<---This i would realize whit a soldered cable direct from the 'black DC-input cable' which was mounted with a cableshoe
(..it say in germany "kabelschuhe") on the case with a nice brass screw. Is this right what i have say?

..and this would be my case-main-ground-port-connection-point, for other things like a back plate brass screw for ground the whole ubitx to my home, and for sure this is a must be when i was have outdoor ham sessions, so that I can ground the whole ubitx directly over the earth floor with for example a metal bar and i like to transmit with kite antenna, long wire antenna high in trees and when this doing, i read, there should be a main ground to the earth ground.

next was point 5. in den v1.9 wire up shematic, It is important to finally have clarity..ok look please here:

5. DC-power cable should be twisted.(yes i ve do this at begin of assemble ubitx with all cable) (but now this-->) The negative (Black) wire should be lager size!

On other website i have read and see this on few ubitx build's but i missing a wire up shematic which have directly draw all these or describe a little bit more information about this whole "Grounded Case Wire Up Shematic" (when i have enough knowledge about this, then my idea is to make this wire up plan..), ...so i have no idea which cable diameter should be used for this "thicker, lager sized negative black dc-power cable.." Can someone help me with the necessary data of a diameter for this cable?

Which construction idea is the best for beginner? Only use a metal case and wire up the same like describe in the v1.7/1.9 wire up shematic here: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/photo/49276/0 and ignore the informations in the plan, like i see most metal cased ubitx pics where i never see the construction instructions with the thick black DC cable, the omission of the grounding cable at the Jack-Sleeves and encoder, grounding mount screw, just everything that I ask here wasn't see at the most picture of metal cased ubitx.. but why is wrote in the wire up instructions (v1.7-1.9) about all these important hints if then almost no one does this and still the normal wiring plan is made despite the metal box, because what I mean at all are yes then this ground loops of what is being warned ... I do not understand now..

ok last point here, warning for ' be careful of groundloops'...On another page I read that it has to do with the thick black DC cable and thus diminished, but not as it is now in the exact context with the rest of the history of the cable and the word ground loops does not tell me how to classify it in Regarding my questions about the individual points .. that would just be the point why it is so important to me to get help because I could not find it to understand. Thank you

Ok these are my question.

Ah yeah.. It is really an interesting and very demanding hobby we have.. or is it just me who is think this :D yae yae yae...hard long way to get this ubitx for rx/tx function..


I hope anyone can help me :)

Best Regards Fabian



Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

iz oos
 

Warren,

regarding '''The front-end diode mixer followed by a Hayward/Kopski TIA makes this a crisp receiver that doesn’t overload easily." Simply untrue. Using this receiver 3 miles away from a 1450 KHz AM broadcast transmitter is impossible through 20 meters due to overload. No other radio I own, including homebrew SDRs has this issue.'''... 3 miles away are really few! The website on this is clear, it shows un understandable schematics and it is clear it has no bandpass filters that are common in the Softrock for instance. For not having them, the front end seems to me quite good. If you have issues with it you may find a solution adding some preselection. In this case a high pass filter or a high pass tuner may be fine. I know btw that some 7300 users are fond of... attenuators.... !!!!


Il 04/set/2018 13:23, "Warren Allgyer" <allgyer@...> ha scritto:

Gordon you have missed my point by focusing on what you call "disparagement". My "disparagement" is an attempt to inform those who expect to take the radio out of the box, connect it up and operate compliantly as is advertised. That is simply not going to happen.

If your IC-718 were presented in its brochure as being able to switch frequencies and bands five times per second then I would be calling that claim garbage as well. It is not represented that way.

Your "disparagement" is my "information". If you, in good conscience and with all you now know about the uBitx, can say you recommend it as a first or only rig to someone just starting in this hobby and without test equipment or the knowledge how to use it, then we indeed disagree. 

Similar charge for that advice. LOL. Have a great day!

WA8TOD


Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Once again Iz, that is the point. You know.... and I know, how to recognize receiver overload and what to do about it. "does not overload easily" is subjective..... but when I have one rig out of several dozen that does overload without external measures while none of the others do, then I would want to point out to those without that experience that the "does not overload easily" reference may be a bit of a stretch. 



WA8TOD

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Scott McDonald
 

Or maybe the website simply intends that under normal operating conditions, propagated signals don’t easily overload the radio.....which may be more true in some parts of the world than others.

I’m a mile and a half from a 50 kw AM station and with resonant antennas have not noticed a BCB problem on 80 thru 10 with the uBitx,  there are other radios here that do have issues in spots.  Just lucky, maybe.

Whether or not a new ham thinks a non-type accepted radio should perform as one, when the website say it doesn’t meet any specs, maybe says as much or more about how little we expect licensed operators to expect, know and understand, as the performance says about the radio.

My guess is a new ham would be a lot smarter, faster, if she has a uBitx and reads this reflector than if she spent the money on a 30 year old hamfest rig, which could be out of spec as it sits, or she could also operate out of spec, without the requisite knowledge.

FWIW

Scott ka9p


On Sep 4, 2018, at 7:36 AM, Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...> wrote:

Once again Iz, that is the point. You know.... and I know, how to recognize receiver overload and what to do about it. "does not overload easily" is subjective..... but when I have one rig out of several dozen that does overload without external measures while none of the others do, then I would want to point out to those without that experience that the "does not overload easily" reference may be a bit of a stretch. 



WA8TOD

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Brent Seres/ VE3CUS
 

Well said, Scott.
We should treat the ubitx, and many other HB projects as radio 'build it" kits. I wonder how many other basement projects dont meet spec? I also totally understand where Warren is coming from...many new hams would look at at the price and all the features, without understanding all the implications, and just reading these forums has been a huge education for me.

Interestingly, I have searched the Canadian regs for info on spurs, etc. and can find nothing other than 'must not cause harmful interference'

Now if only the same social conscience as shown here was embraced by manufacturers of consumer electronics,  I might be able to hear something on 80 meters. Just my FWIW.

73 all
Breny

Re: Stone Soup

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Are we ignoring the possibility of using series LC traps to suck out some of the bugs
(bug traps...?),      8-)

Arv,

No not ignoring them.  They are generally useless as the assumption is the
spur only happens here which is invalid, they are tunable  you tune they move.
For examplt the 10M spur for 28mhz its 17 and at 29.9999 its 15.0001
so if you are anywhere in between so is the spur somewhere in between.


reminder as it seems needed every 24 hours...

There are two issues:

Spurs that result from lack of filtering for bands over 20mhz.

Harmonics due to layout of the low pass filter switching for the 
80/40/20 meter bands.  (rewire the relays its fixed).

Since the topic is we are hams we do this stuff.  If you whine
about pulling relays and removing tracks to fix the filter issue
I offer no sympathy.  Do that or external filter, or nothing.

Allison