Date   
TDA 28222

JOHN CRONHELM <johncronhelm@...>
 

I have a new tested uBitX transceiver of the pre built type. Will it have a voltage protection for this IC included or do I have to add one?
Many thanks,
John vo1jcc.

Re: uBitX CW Sidetone Volume

Skip Davis
 

Mark I replaced R250 with a 10k trimpot to set the level. R250 is located at the front of the main board at the right edge of the Raduino board.

Skip Davis, NC9O 

On Jun 20, 2018, at 20:16, Mark M <junquemaile@...> wrote:

I find the CW sidetone on my uBitX V3 to be annoyingly loud. Any suggestions on how to quiet it down? I'm running Ian's 1.08 firmware.

Thanks...      Mark    AA7TA

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

James Lynes
 

I suspect that some of our 3D printer gurus could come up with a card cage to mount the motherboard to.

I used a lot of Prolog STD-BUS products a long time ago and they had very nice plastic card cages in 2, 4, 8, 12, and 16 slots. Slot spacing needs a good think to allow spacing for anticipated component heights. I'm thinking 3/4 to 1 inch. Probably 4 or 8 slots to begin with.

I do not pretend to know the best arrangement of signals(software guy), but I'm sure it will require a mingling of ground traces to minimize cross-talk and doubled traces on power buses.

I was thinking of using the small sized stripboards as the card form factor.

Lots of possibilities. Standards are so great since there are so many of them.

James

Re: ND6T AGC and Click kit wiring notes

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

How do you order these boards is there a web page chris in the uk


On Wed, 20 Jun 2018, 21:06 Kees T, <windy10605@...> wrote:
Link to the Photos  https://groups.io/g/BITX20/album?id=42154
Link to the Files   https://groups.io/g/BITX20/files/K5BCQ

73 Kees K5BCQ

Re: uBitX CW Sidetone Volume

 

The sidetone level is dependant on the level of the volume control, so as a temporary fix you could turn your volume down slightly when you start sending and then readjust it on RX. 

A permanent solution might be to try increasing the value of R253 (currently 1K). It is near Crystal X1 and the Audio connector.  

Michael VE3WMB 

Re: Enclosure #parts

bdevries52@...
 

Bill;
The Ubtix takes a 8x8x3 box the fold down DRO is very interesting I have a Engineer/designer son in law I will fwd this to him and see what he comes up with, I want to take mine camping and this would work great.
Bob KA9CMH

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

tdelozie
 

TAPR has a kits for the HDSDR project which has a bus board called Atlas. Perhaps it could further inspire a hambus. The documentation at the bottom of the kit page describes it in detail. 

http://www.tapr.org/kits_atlas.html
kf5nwc

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

Arv Evans
 

If hams were to design and standardize a ham-bus-system approach to modular equipment,
should the design be placed in public domain, or under one of the free-to-use licenses?  
Should a group be formed specifically for the purpose of bus design, documentation, and
publication?
How would upgrades, modifications, and alternative bus designs be handled?

Seems there are lots of questions, lots of possible opinions, and lots of work to do.

Arv
_._


On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 6:18 PM w7hd.rh <w7hd.rh@...> wrote:
I solved it by using a single row of pins to the motherboard.  The mounting arrangement included two slides (front and rear) attached to mounting panels.  The socket mounted on the motherboard was soldered in place, and a fairly stiff board was used.  If you need yet more strength, spacers between the motherboard and the bottom chassis will add far more than enough strength.  The bus used consisted of 3 each 20-pin headers to allow for varied signals and was terminated on one end (very important for maintaining isolation).  The traces between boards contained only the needed signals, such that all audio level signals only connected to audio handling boards, etc. 

Ron W7HD

On 06/20/2018 04:40 PM, VK3HN wrote:
Hi Ron, Jack and James.  'Hambus' -- there's an idea.  Modules are common enough, Mark at Minikits has a complete HF transceiver with header connected modules, some (crystal filters, BPFs, LPFs) of which stack.  These hint at a bus, with consistent assignments of power, control and signal lines to specific pins.  Other projects have pluggable daughterboards (the venerable Sierra's neat band plugins, for example).  

The idea of a universal bus is appealing. In computer tradition, the Hambus could be standardised and managed as a product in its own right. Modules could then be designed for Hambus versions. Imagine mixing and matching homebrew and vendor modules on a Hambus.  Layout would be important for screening and short paths, but  James' suggested 20 double 0.1 headers should be enough separation.  Perhaps some strategically placed jumpers on certain bus lines (audio, RF) could trim signal bus lines for better isolation. 

First problem to solve -- how do you get physical strength when you edge mount a vertical board on a double row 0.1 header?  Slide the board between the two rows, bend pins in, solder both sides?  

Minikits M1: https://www.minikits.com.au/m1-transceiver.htm

-- 
Ron W7HD - NAQCC#7587 OMISS#9898 KX3#6966 LinuxUser#415320
Editor OVARC newsletter

Re: uBITX Version 4 first attempt #ubitx-help #ubitx

Tim Gorman
 

The FIRST thing you are supposed to do when you receive a package from
a freight company is examine the unit being received. If it is damaged
you file a claim with the freight company - IMMEDIATELY! With the
driver if possible! If it is damaged severely do not accept receipt of
the unit.

When I worked for the local telephone company we received equipment
bays where it was obvious had been skewered by a fork lift! I received
pallets of equipment that had been broken in transit inside the
trailer and the driver was actually shoveling units out of the back of
the trailer onto the loading dock!

None of this is the fault of the manufacturer!

I didn't accept receipt of *any* of this. The freight company wound up
providing new equipment which I assume was paid by their insurance.

tim ab0wr



On Wed, 20 Jun 2018 15:16:58 -0700
"Ray Koster via Groups.Io" <raykoster=talktalk.net@groups.io> wrote:

They sold the kits, who else should I blame for damage in transit?


Re: uBITX Version 4 first attempt #ubitx-help #ubitx

Skip Davis
 

Ray you said “They sold the kits, who else should I blame for damage in transit?”. Although they did sell the kit Farhan didn’t deliver it to your door personally. The first person that should have been contacted about this is your local postal system/delivery service, who ever was the last to handle your package. They are the ones that need to investigate and correct a problem that appears to exist or identify where this mishandling is occurring. It is unusual that all three packages were damaged, has this occurred with any other packages you’ve ordered?
Farhan’s group has mailed out thousands of packages worldwide and a few may have arrived damaged but those are the exception not the rule. I can’t believe that your packages were singled out to be selectively damaged. Also the packaging has evolved into a more robust format from the first BITX’s and I must say I was very impressed when I received mine.
I hope through all this you do get some resolution to the problem.

Skip Davis, NC9O

On Jun 20, 2018, at 18:16, Ray Koster via Groups.Io <raykoster=talktalk.net@groups.io> wrote:

They sold the kits, who else should I blame for damage in transit?

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

w7hd.rh <w7hd.rh@...>
 

I solved it by using a single row of pins to the motherboard.  The mounting arrangement included two slides (front and rear) attached to mounting panels.  The socket mounted on the motherboard was soldered in place, and a fairly stiff board was used.  If you need yet more strength, spacers between the motherboard and the bottom chassis will add far more than enough strength.  The bus used consisted of 3 each 20-pin headers to allow for varied signals and was terminated on one end (very important for maintaining isolation).  The traces between boards contained only the needed signals, such that all audio level signals only connected to audio handling boards, etc. 

Ron W7HD

On 06/20/2018 04:40 PM, VK3HN wrote:
Hi Ron, Jack and James.  'Hambus' -- there's an idea.  Modules are common enough, Mark at Minikits has a complete HF transceiver with header connected modules, some (crystal filters, BPFs, LPFs) of which stack.  These hint at a bus, with consistent assignments of power, control and signal lines to specific pins.  Other projects have pluggable daughterboards (the venerable Sierra's neat band plugins, for example).  

The idea of a universal bus is appealing. In computer tradition, the Hambus could be standardised and managed as a product in its own right. Modules could then be designed for Hambus versions. Imagine mixing and matching homebrew and vendor modules on a Hambus.  Layout would be important for screening and short paths, but  James' suggested 20 double 0.1 headers should be enough separation.  Perhaps some strategically placed jumpers on certain bus lines (audio, RF) could trim signal bus lines for better isolation. 

First problem to solve -- how do you get physical strength when you edge mount a vertical board on a double row 0.1 header?  Slide the board between the two rows, bend pins in, solder both sides?  

Minikits M1: https://www.minikits.com.au/m1-transceiver.htm

-- 
Ron W7HD - NAQCC#7587 OMISS#9898 KX3#6966 LinuxUser#415320
Editor OVARC newsletter

Re: I'm really stuck! No Xmit Pwr. #ubitx

Rick Price
 

Chip,
Attached pdf file of RMS and DC voltages in a working RF section that was put on the board sometime after the first of the year.  I believe either Glenn VK3PE or Jerry KE7ER made it just can't remember who for certain.  Any way hope it helps in your trouble shooting and no xmit pwr.
 
Rick
KN4AIE

uBitX CW Sidetone Volume

Mark M
 

I find the CW sidetone on my uBitX V3 to be annoyingly loud. Any suggestions on how to quiet it down? I'm running Ian's 1.08 firmware.

Thanks...      Mark    AA7TA

Re: uBITX Version 4 first attempt #ubitx-help #ubitx

William Cullison
 

Ashhar and the group,

I am very happy with my µBitx other than getting my butt kicked trying to work digital. The only problems I've had with mine have mostly been self caused. Yes the power is uneven as delivered. Show me a better deal in a SSB/CW transceiver and I'll buy it next instead of another µBitx. My Heathkit HW-8 cost more as a kit and when I sold it on EBay about a year before I decided to get back into ham radio. Yes I screwed up!

73 Bill WA8VIH/4

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 7:41 PM, Arv Evans <arvid.evans@...> wrote:
Blame your own country postal or package delivery service. 
_._

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 4:17 PM Ray Koster via Groups.Io <raykoster=talktalk.net@groups.io> wrote:
They sold the kits, who else should I blame for damage in transit?


Re: uBITX Version 4 first attempt #ubitx-help #ubitx

Arv Evans
 

Blame your own country postal or package delivery service. 
_._


On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 4:17 PM Ray Koster via Groups.Io <raykoster=talktalk.net@groups.io> wrote:
They sold the kits, who else should I blame for damage in transit?

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

VK3HN
 

Hi Ron, Jack and James.  'Hambus' -- there's an idea.  Modules are common enough, Mark at Minikits has a complete HF transceiver with header connected modules, some (crystal filters, BPFs, LPFs) of which stack.  These hint at a bus, with consistent assignments of power, control and signal lines to specific pins.  Other projects have pluggable daughterboards (the venerable Sierra's neat band plugins, for example).  

The idea of a universal bus is appealing. In computer tradition, the Hambus could be standardised and managed as a product in its own right. Modules could then be designed for Hambus versions. Imagine mixing and matching homebrew and vendor modules on a Hambus.  Layout would be important for screening and short paths, but  James' suggested 20 double 0.1 headers should be enough separation.  Perhaps some strategically placed jumpers on certain bus lines (audio, RF) could trim signal bus lines for better isolation. 

First problem to solve -- how do you get physical strength when you edge mount a vertical board on a double row 0.1 header?  Slide the board between the two rows, bend pins in, solder both sides?  

Minikits M1: https://www.minikits.com.au/m1-transceiver.htm

Re: I'm really stuck! No Xmit Pwr. #ubitx

Glenn
 

Chip, your testing shows no modulation input.  So you will get no output power.

Did you try keying up the uBITX in CW mode?

glenn

Re: uBITX Version 4 first attempt #ubitx-help #ubitx

oz1lqb@...
 

Hi to all..
Ray i have received 4 kits in the last 2 month all in perfect condition..
they all works just fine..
i dont now about you but the reason i got to be a ham was to experiment and the BITX40 and uBITX is for me the perfect platform to do that
and i think that most off the people fells the same 
last but not lest i have been a experimenting ham for 32 years and Farhan's kits has been for me the ideal kit at a price i like 
Vy 73 De OZ1LQB / Claus

Re: Output power

brad martin
 

Thank you all for the replies. Unfortunately my idea on paper does not look like it’s going to work out based on my experiments last night. My idea was that I have a cb type swr meter and I was going to make it into a digital swr and power meter and well being that it’s not for Hf the output voltage of the meter didn’t line up with output power. .6v on 80, 1v on 40 and 30 and 1.5v on 20. So oh well on that one. I have Arduinos all over the place so using a mega for this is not a loss for me. I almost use them as coasters at this point. I would see a deal on them and get them over the last few years and as far as time goes I always try to make time for my hobbies because life is short right :).

I have seen the dummy load with a cap and diode before and have been planning on adding that to my dummy load as well. When choosing the diode what properties are you looking for?

I have a goal most people would probably say I’m crazy for doing. The plan is that my first HF contact will be done using things I have made, built, or repaired. So far everything I have (power supply, uBITX, antenna, CW paddle, dummy load, and other random stuff) and the swr meter is the only thing I have left that has not has been modified.

73
Brad
KG5SPR

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 3:39 PM Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
The BAV21 is not a bad choice for the dummy load dectector.
Very cheap, which is of course my primary criteria.

Forward voltage drop appears to be around 0.5v at 0.1ma from their graphs,
the detector would have a much smaller current going through it.
So should still be able to measure 10mW into the dummy load,
though factoring in that drop to the calculations becomes more important than with the 1n5711. 

I'd still use the 1n5711 for the diode RF probe.

Jerry



On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:27 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
We use a BAV21 diode in our design, which is rated at 250V.
 

Re: Stray RF?

William Cullison
 

Allison I don't recall whether it occurs on antenna and/or dummy load. I'll check it out this evening. Poor grounding could also be part of the problem because of all the in and out of the case making changes my grounding is lacking. I guess I better fix that as well. 

Marco, I had to make an unscheduled trip past Skycraft today so I picked up a handful of clip-on ferrite cores. I'm still on factory length cables myself. 

I have a lot to relearn as it just seemed so much easier building my own equipment in the late 60's. Heck building an ATV transmitter on 23cm seemed easier then.

Thanks to both of you.

73 Bill WA8VIH/4

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 12:51 PM, M Garza <mgarza896@...> wrote:
Hi Jay,
I actually have not cut any of the factory cables.  I grouped them and put the clip on ferrite on them.  I did not include the antenna (used some small coax for that).  I will be trimming the cables, once I know what case I will be using and I am done with my mods.  The ferrite keeps my display from going blank and the NANO from resetting.  It was getting really annoying.

Marco - KG5PRT 

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018, 10:53 AM Jay - WS4JM <ws4jm@...> wrote:
Where to add the ferrite? On the antenna leads?