Date   
Re: Latest Build, Mods and results.

Mharpen@...
 

Hello Mike. The amp is a verbatim copy of the Q70 amp including the blocking caps and C52 and R52. It is installed between VOL-H and R70 with a 10k trim pot on the input to adjust the drive. Thanks for your interest. Mike N6CMY

Re: New RF AGC modification #ubitx

RCBoatGuy
 

Relay K3 has different pin assignments in the r4 schematic compared to prior versions. 

The AGC mod was created before the r4 schematic was released. 

73,

Carl, K0MWC

Re: SI5351 quadrature VFO

freefuel@...
 

Jerry, that Si5338 while it has four outputs it only has a single PLL, it would seem that only a single PLL to work with would compound the jitter/phase noise problem if there really is one in the uBITX. 

-Justin N2TOH 

Re: SI5351 quadrature VFO

freefuel@...
 

Miguel, if you could get that output up around 225MHz that would be great for those of us in the United States. 

-Justin N2TOH 

Re: My first ubitx #ubitx

Bill Watkins
 

Kindred spirits lol

73

Bill
K0WHW


On Jun 14, 2018, at 15:49, Willy <W1LY@...> wrote:

It looks like you were sitting on my deck. Every detail. 73 Willy W1LY

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 10:05 AM, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:

Got my ubitx last week. Made my first contact yesterday with it, and I’m very pleased. 20 meters usb. Used qrp guys un-un plus wire antenna. Chicago to South Carolina.   Glad to be a part of the group. <9539FC7C_D816_497C_A347_B020D72A7122.jpeg>


Re: ic2 display problems #arduino ??? #arduino

Bill Watkins
 

Displays functional

image1.jpeg
image2.jpeg


On Jun 14, 2018, at 10:41, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

I'm not sure, but I think the I2C interface expects to use A4 and A5 for the interface. One of the hardware guys can help you there.

Jack, W8TEE


On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 11:09:34 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Thank you very much. 

Another question; should the original display still be enabled even though ic2 is programmed?  Not used at same time, but when swapped back the display acts as originally shipped. 

73,

Bill
K0WHW




On Jun 14, 2018, at 09:43, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

Have you tried the display with one of the examples from the library just to make sure that you've 1) got a working display, and 2) it's wired correctly. Often a problem is that there are numerous LiquidCrystal libraries and they are substantially different. Unfortunately, Dr. Lee didn't follow the convention that gives the download URL for the library on the same line as the #include. That suggests to me that he's using the library that is shipped with the Arduino IDE. Check any examples that your manufacturer has to see if they give the download URL for the library. Also, there is a library for I2C LCD's:


You might give that a try as I don't think the standard IDE library is for I2C displays.

Jack, W8TEE




On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:24:35 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Hello,
I have attempted to duplicate Ian Lee’s success. 1) I have latest firmware and manager. 2) tried 0x27 & 0x3F; neither makes a difference. Display manufacturer says 0x27 correct. 3) Checked voltages on bcc, sda, and scl; 4.48, 3.89, & 3.90 respectively.  4) display lights up and separate, new display lights up. No letters in either regardless address used. Unit still works and original display still works with ic2 settings when swapped back.

Anyone???!

Re: ic2 display problems #arduino ??? #arduino

Tom, wb6b
 

Hi,

Just a couple of general observations about I2C displays.

Yes, the I2C display uses the same pins as the SI5351 (A4, A5) for the interface connection. The SI5351 is a 3.3V part and the bus is set up to use 3.3V levels. The interface between the SI5351 and the Arduino relies on the 3.3V high level barely being in spec for the minimum acceptable "one" voltage for the Arduino (depending on which ATMega324 data sheet you look at). I believe the displays work just fine at the 3.3V bus levels.

Your display physically looks just like mine, however there are some that have the order of the data bits reversed. It seems some people/companies have modified the LiquidCrystal_I2C library for different parts/configurations and kindly kept the name the same. So there are several libraries and they may not all be compatible. To work with the CEC firmware the display should be using the PFC8574 I2C to parallel chip. 

It looks like the CEC firmware has included all the I2C LCD driver code in his sketch, so you don't need to worry about the library.

The CEC firmware can be used with two displays, but displays different information on each display.  

Tom, wb6b

Re: ic2 display problems #arduino ??? #arduino

Bill Watkins
 

Problem solved. Comment incorrect display, un-comment correct display. Thanks for all today who helped, and Thanks Dr. Lee

image1.jpeg

73


On Jun 14, 2018, at 17:17, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:

Displays functional

image1.jpeg
image2.jpeg


On Jun 14, 2018, at 10:41, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

I'm not sure, but I think the I2C interface expects to use A4 and A5 for the interface. One of the hardware guys can help you there.

Jack, W8TEE


On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 11:09:34 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Thank you very much. 

Another question; should the original display still be enabled even though ic2 is programmed?  Not used at same time, but when swapped back the display acts as originally shipped. 

73,

Bill
K0WHW




On Jun 14, 2018, at 09:43, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

Have you tried the display with one of the examples from the library just to make sure that you've 1) got a working display, and 2) it's wired correctly. Often a problem is that there are numerous LiquidCrystal libraries and they are substantially different. Unfortunately, Dr. Lee didn't follow the convention that gives the download URL for the library on the same line as the #include. That suggests to me that he's using the library that is shipped with the Arduino IDE. Check any examples that your manufacturer has to see if they give the download URL for the library. Also, there is a library for I2C LCD's:


You might give that a try as I don't think the standard IDE library is for I2C displays.

Jack, W8TEE




On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:24:35 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Hello,
I have attempted to duplicate Ian Lee’s success. 1) I have latest firmware and manager. 2) tried 0x27 & 0x3F; neither makes a difference. Display manufacturer says 0x27 correct. 3) Checked voltages on bcc, sda, and scl; 4.48, 3.89, & 3.90 respectively.  4) display lights up and separate, new display lights up. No letters in either regardless address used. Unit still works and original display still works with ic2 settings when swapped back.

Anyone???!

Re: ic2 display problems #arduino ??? #arduino

Arv Evans
 

Bill  KF7YXS

There are a number of different I2C libraries.  The word "different" is key because some function
calls are definitely different.  Beauty and curse of libraries is that there are so many different ones
that claim to serve the same purpose.

Analog Pins A4 and A5 seem to be normal for I2C interfaces.  The Atmel datasheet for a Mega-328
shows that A4 and A5 connect internally to the TWI (2-Wire Interface) circuitry. 

http://tinyurl.com/y7nk9f54

However, there are exceptions where the TWI interface is not available.  In those cases you may
have to select a pair of digital pins and write your own bit-banging code to do the TWI protocol.

​An I2C interface usually requires 4.7K resistors as pull-up on the SDA and SCL leads.​  If you look at the
internal schematic for an OLED TFT display you will see that it only has pull-down current devices and no
pull-up components.  I fought with this for several days until I finally figured it out.  Enabling pull-up
function on the Arduino leads apparently is not adequate.  After adding the 4.7K pull-up resistors my display
came alive.

​If you want to have both LCD and TFT displays active it might be worthwhile to turn off the backlight on that
LCD when it is not needed.  This will decrease the amount of current drawn by that display.​

Arv K7HKL
_._
 

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 4:17 PM Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:
Displays functional




On Jun 14, 2018, at 10:41, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

I'm not sure, but I think the I2C interface expects to use A4 and A5 for the interface. One of the hardware guys can help you there.

Jack, W8TEE


On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 11:09:34 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Thank you very much. 

Another question; should the original display still be enabled even though ic2 is programmed?  Not used at same time, but when swapped back the display acts as originally shipped. 

73,

Bill
K0WHW




On Jun 14, 2018, at 09:43, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum@...> wrote:

Have you tried the display with one of the examples from the library just to make sure that you've 1) got a working display, and 2) it's wired correctly. Often a problem is that there are numerous LiquidCrystal libraries and they are substantially different. Unfortunately, Dr. Lee didn't follow the convention that gives the download URL for the library on the same line as the #include. That suggests to me that he's using the library that is shipped with the Arduino IDE. Check any examples that your manufacturer has to see if they give the download URL for the library. Also, there is a library for I2C LCD's:


You might give that a try as I don't think the standard IDE library is for I2C displays.

Jack, W8TEE




On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 10:24:35 AM EDT, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:


Hello,
I have attempted to duplicate Ian Lee’s success. 1) I have latest firmware and manager. 2) tried 0x27 & 0x3F; neither makes a difference. Display manufacturer says 0x27 correct. 3) Checked voltages on bcc, sda, and scl; 4.48, 3.89, & 3.90 respectively.  4) display lights up and separate, new display lights up. No letters in either regardless address used. Unit still works and original display still works with ic2 settings when swapped back.

Anyone???!

Re: My first ubitx #ubitx

brad martin
 

I have yet to make a contact on mine and I think it’s because I can’t really find a good spot for my antenna and not wanting to drill any coax holes in this rental house. How do you like the qrp guys kit? I’m thinking about getting one and tossing a wire into the tree in the front of the house.

Brad

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 6:15 PM Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:
Kindred spirits lol

73

Bill
K0WHW



On Jun 14, 2018, at 15:49, Willy <W1LY@...> wrote:

It looks like you were sitting on my deck. Every detail. 73 Willy W1LY
On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 10:05 AM, Bill Watkins <kf7yxs@...> wrote:

Got my ubitx last week. Made my first contact yesterday with it, and I’m very pleased. 20 meters usb. Used qrp guys un-un plus wire antenna. Chicago to South Carolina.   Glad to be a part of the group. <9539FC7C_D816_497C_A347_B020D72A7122.jpeg>


Re: SI5351 quadrature VFO

Jerry Gaffke
 

Yes, the si5338 has one pll.
But with that single pll, the output msynths are done accurately enough that jitter is better than can be done on the si5351
using integer output msynths.

Also, you do realize that the uBitx uses only one of the two PLL's inside the si5351?
The si53351 has two pll's but the second pll is not used.
The uBitx requires three clock.
As described in my previous email.

Jerry


On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 03:12 pm, <freefuel@...> wrote:
Jerry, that Si5338 while it has four outputs it only has a single PLL, it would seem that only a single PLL to work with would compound the jitter/phase noise problem if there really is one in the uBITX. 

The BITeensio board is here. #ubitx

Jim Sheldon
 

Thanks to Vince, K8ZW for naming the board in the contest we had a while back.  The production boards have arrived and been checked out.  See www.w0eb.com for details on how you can order one of these if you're interested.  We also have some neat little breakout boards for the 1/8" jacks that will allow them to be easily mounted and wired up without having to guess which terminal does what.  May save a lot of grief.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB

Re: First Mod to µBitx = first screw up--Oh my #ubitx-help

William Cullison
 

Thanks for the guidance and advice. I tested my rig today and RF gain seems to be working. I'm used RG-316 left from another project. I ran the coax across the bottom of the board to a 3-pin male connector. This makes it easier to keep pulling it apart

Re: Can't get my uBitX to transmit CW on the Dial frequency

 

I have confirmed the same thing in the CEC firmware V1.08.  The uBITX display frequency is the RX frequency not the TX frequency.

I will now explain why this is a problem.

This is not theoretical .. I tried this with my Flex-1500 with both rigs side-by-side, TXing into dummy loads. 

My Flex is transmitting on 7.030 Mhz CWU exactly (dial frequency BTW) using a 700 Hz RX offset. The uBITX is on CWU has a 700 Hz sidetone set (ie offset) then
the dial on the uBITX needs to be at 7.029.300 Mhz  so that it is receiving a the Flex with a 700hz audio tone. Both stations can hear each other with a 700 Hz tone. This confirms that the uBITX dial frequency is the receive frequency not its transmit frequency.  I can also see and hear that the uBITX is transmitting on
7.030 Mhz with this dial setting.

Now I switch the Flex to CWL without changing frequency. I leave the uBitx on the same frequency (7.029.300 Mhz) and still on CWU. Both stations can still hear each other with a 700 Hz tone. Changing modes on the Flex left the TX (dial) frequency the same and only moved the RX frequency of the Flex to the other sideband (ie. the Flex RX frequency switches from 7.029.300 Mhz to 7.030.700 Mhz). 

I put back Flex back on CWU without changing frequency (ie. dial still shows 7.030 Mhz). Now switch I the uBITX from CWU to CWL. The dial frequency on 
the uBITX still shows 7.029.300 Mhz on the dial but it is now transmitting at 7.028.600 Mhz and is inaudible to the Flex which is still listening at 7.029.300 Mhz !

With any rig in CW mode, when you have a station tuned in and are listening you should be able to switch from CWL to CWU at at any time and without 
retuning and you should be able to hear the other station and he should still be able to hear you. The whole idea of switching sidebands in CW mode is to
be to use it as a means of avoiding adjacent noise. Sometimes switching from CWU to CWL will allow you to avoid QRM. 

That is only possible if the uBITX TX frequency remains fixed on CW sideband changes (CWU/CWL) and the RX frequency changes according to the sideband selected and the configured offset.  

So that means that the display frequency since it is fixed, must be the TX frequency. The RX frequency should change on switching from CWU to CWL based on a minus or plus offset from the TX frequency. 

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 

Need help

hotrod541@...
 

I have assembled my uBITX and when I set up the power-amp bias everything adjust fine until I key the mike and grunt loudly, I don't see any increase in the bias. I assume that the transmitter is not working.  I have installed a led for rec. and trans. and it keys correctly with the led, I get red on trans, green on receiver. I installed a four (4) pin mike connector and it may not be wired correctly. It is wired, pin 1 blue (gr), pin 2 orange (ptt), pin 3 purple (mic), pin 4 case ground. I am using  a Astatic CB mike. I must not have one of the wires connected right but it does key as I can hear the power supply load increase when I key.  I cannot believe the receive on this radio, it does a great job just like it is. Any help would be appreciated.
Buddy3223
KJ4ZSI

Re: Swapping First and Second Line on uBITX Display with KD8CEC v1.08 firmware #ubitx

William Cullison
 

Thanks Michael. I forgot I had seen it there.

73 Bill WA8VIH/4

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 3:47 PM, Michael Babineau <mbabineau.ve3wmb@...> wrote:
I just got my uBITX V3 wired up yesterday and decided to go ahead and load the latest available KD8CEC firmware this morning.

After playing around with it for a while I decided that I would prefer to have the Main VFO frequency and Mode displayed in the top
line of the display and the secondary info (VFO B etc) on the bottom line so I looked at the code and realized that there seemed to be a swap
happening between lines one and two under some circumstances. This quest ultimately lead me to the uBITX Memory Manager. 

Under 'User Interface' of the uBitx Memory Manager application (scroll way down), checking  the '1/2 Line Toggle' works to swap the first and 2nd lines
on the display, so I didn't have to change any code to achieve this. 

I did a search within this group and found reference to this feature in message #46400 but it was pretty low key so I thought that I would
reiterate this in case anyone was else has a preference for putting the more important info on the top line of the display.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 


VOM Advice?

Mark M
 

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but it is related to uBitX hacking...

My ancient, el-cheapo VOMs (Radio Shack/Harbor Freight freebies) all have pretty much ceased working so I'm looking for some suggestions about suitable replacement units. I'm not looking for lab quality, just something for a hobbiest/amateur hardware hacker (like for modifying the uBitx). I'd like to find something that's reliable and reasonably accurate for a few 10's of dollars. I see many units on Amazon for around that but don't know which ones would be good buys. So, any advice from y'all?

Thanks & 73....     Mark    AA7TA

New rig, current to finals does not go up when transmitting (was Need help)

Jerry Gaffke
 

Buddy,

Hope you don't mind, I created a new thread with a descriptive name.
"Need help" just doesn't do it.  
Original thread was   https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/51984

I suggest you try sending CW into a dummy load.
Finding out whether it works or not will divide the problem roughly in half,
If it works with CW, then everything from Q90 out to the antenna port is fine,
and the problem lies somewhere between the mike and T2.

The fact that the rig receives means that most of the stuff from T7 to T2 is working.

Jerry, KE7ER




On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 06:33 pm, <hotrod541@...> wrote:
I have assembled my uBITX and when I set up the power-amp bias everything adjust fine until I key the mike and grunt loudly, I don't see any increase in the bias. I assume that the transmitter is not working.  I have installed a led for rec. and trans. and it keys correctly with the led, I get red on trans, green on receiver. I installed a four (4) pin mike connector and it may not be wired correctly. It is wired, pin 1 blue (gr), pin 2 orange (ptt), pin 3 purple (mic), pin 4 case ground. I am using  a Astatic CB mike. I must not have one of the wires connected right but it does key as I can hear the power supply load increase when I key.  I cannot believe the receive on this radio, it does a great job just like it is. Any help would be appreciated.
Buddy3223
KJ4ZSI

Re: VOM Advice?

Arv Evans
 

Mark  AA7TA

It is relatively easy to build up an Arduino with LCD display to display voltages that are
presented to one, or more, of the ADC inputs.  This gives you a basic 5V range that can
be increased with dividers. 

Arv  K7HKL
_._


On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:11 PM Mark M <junquemaile@...> wrote:
Sorry if this is a bit off topic but it is related to uBitX hacking...

My ancient, el-cheapo VOMs (Radio Shack/Harbor Freight freebies) all have pretty much ceased working so I'm looking for some suggestions about suitable replacement units. I'm not looking for lab quality, just something for a hobbiest/amateur hardware hacker (like for modifying the uBitx). I'd like to find something that's reliable and reasonably accurate for a few 10's of dollars. I see many units on Amazon for around that but don't know which ones would be good buys. So, any advice from y'all?

Thanks & 73....     Mark    AA7TA

Re: VOM Advice?

Jerry Gaffke
 

I picked up about a half dozen harbor freight DVM's when they were on sale for $1 or so.
Not auto ranging and pretty easy to blow, but well worth a buck.
Something I can knock around without worrying too much.

If you're willing to spend big money, $12 will get you an autoranging meter that shows capacitance:
I got one of these 5 or more years ago:
    https://www.amazon.com/GigaMax-Multimeter-Pocket-Size-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B00RSQD6IW
I can't recommend it, as you can see how small the "V" indication is that shows it is reading Volts.
That can do an autoranging jump to "mV" to show millivolts, and it takes me awhile to figure my probe
isn't quite making contact with the battery or whatever.

But do consider getting one with a capacitance range, it's handy.
This UT10A generally shows about 100pf across the leads with my hands on the probes.
I put the cap down on the desk and hold the probes to it, take a reading.
Then gingerly pull the probes away a fraction of an inch, take a second reading.
Subtracting the second from the first I get the value of the cap to within about 10pf.

Jerry



On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 07:11 pm, Mark M wrote:
Sorry if this is a bit off topic but it is related to uBitX hacking...

My ancient, el-cheapo VOMs (Radio Shack/Harbor Freight freebies) all have pretty much ceased working so I'm looking for some suggestions about suitable replacement units. I'm not looking for lab quality, just something for a hobbiest/amateur hardware hacker (like for modifying the uBitx). I'd like to find something that's reliable and reasonably accurate for a few 10's of dollars. I see many units on Amazon for around that but don't know which ones would be good buys. So, any advice from y'all?