Date   

Re: uBITX M1, M2, M3, M4

Clark Martin
 

The M1 and M2 in the audio section are independent of the M1 through M4s tied to ground. The audio M1 and M2 connect to one of the transmit / receive relays to cut out the audio from the receiver during transmit.


Clark Martin
KK6ISP

On Mar 22, 2018, at 6:26 AM, Michael LeBlanc <@VE1LEB> wrote:

I don't have a uBITX, but I'm considering building one from scratch. Looking at Farhan's 2017 schematic, he has indicated what looks like a 4-pin header labeled M1, M2, M3, and M4 which are grounded. There is a matching M1 in the audio section, and M2 is also in the audio section. Am I correct in interpreting these as jumpers that can be added or removed? If so, what is the purpose of each jumper?

Final question: are there any builders out there who, in addition to Farhan, of course!) have built the uBITX from scratch and have some words of wisdom to share?


Re: how to reset the calibration

Arvo W0VRA
 

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 08:13 pm, Jacob Farnes wrote:
When I got my uBitx, the sidebands were reversed from the factory in the Raduino. Which was fine until the auto-sideband switch flipped it back on me.
What does this mean?  There was something wrong in the software as installed?


Re: uBITX M1, M2, M3, M4

wb7dmx@att.net
 

that would be the 4 mounting holes for the pc board they are all grounded.


Re: Newest addition to the shack!

Tim Gorman
 

You sound like one busy guy!

I too am going to order a second one to experiment with. This one seems
to be working well right now and I hate to mess with it very much. I
have checked into the morning Badger WX net and the KS WX net and both
said it sounds fine -- just a bit weak!

tim ab0wr

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 23:46:02 -0700
"Nelson" <ngtdlt@...> wrote:

Howdy Tim,

An S-38A to be exact. It is one of two I have. I like to use it for
SWL. The other one is waiting to be brought back to life along with
way too many other old radios in my shop. Up next is a Central
Electronic CE-10 and 458 VFO I got at a Hamfest in Puyallup a week or
so ago. I have one in the equipment rack but the new one does not
have a scratch on it. But right now the uBITX is front and center.
I am thinking of getting another just to experiment with.

Nelson
KG7GYS



On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 8:00 PM, Tim Gorman <tgorman2@...> wrote:

Nice! I like your boat anchor gear. Is that an old S-38 I see?

tim ab0wr

On Wed, 21 Mar 2018 16:53:46 -0700
"Nelson" <ngtdlt@...> wrote:

I got my uBITx wired up today and powered it up this afternoon.
Not much on the air but I did go out to my jeep and fired up my
Yaesu FT-817ND on 10 meter and had my wife listen down in the
shack. She said it hurt her ears it was so loud (I had the AF
Gain up all the way) but other than that it worked fine.

Now I just need to get the microphone wired up and/or a key wired
up so I can test the transmitter portion. For the key I think I
will just make an adapter from the 1/4" mono plug I use on my
other rigs. The mic I will use is a mic that I use with my
Baofeng UV-5. I will modify the plugs to be separate plugs for
the mic and external speaker. I just need to get a couple of the
appropriate size jacks. Dang I wish Radio Shack still had a store
in town. As it is, I will need to mail order the plugs for the
mic external speaker and key. In the mean time I will spend some
time surfing the bands and listening on it :-)

Attached is a picture of it in the shack.
Nelson
KG7GYS




Re: rotary encoder failed #ubitx-help #parts

DrZ <zehrhj2@...>
 

Tim - I agree.  Moreover, my case is so light that I have to hold the rig down to push the encoder in.  Instead of a push button, I decided to use a spring-loaded miniature toggle switch.  Now I don't have to hang onto the case.
Howard K4LXY


Re: rotary encoder failed #ubitx-help #parts

Dana Marcy
 

Thank you Jim for your kind advice and part number. I ordered several just in case. 
Thanks again.
73


Re: Mechanical work is done...

Nelson
 

The other message is from Vic WA4THR

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 7:03 AM, Nelson <ngtdlt@...> wrote:
Howdy Kim,

I used a transparent adhesive sheet designed for use in a printer.  I had planed to do the whole face of the unit but the paper was 8x11.5 inches and my radio is wider than 11.5 inches.  I ended up printing a sheet with a variety of sizes and fonts and cut out the ones that looked like what I wanted and then peeled the backing and stuck them on.  A smaller case would allow you to do a complete front panel as a single piece.  There is another message right below about using this and it looks really nice.

Nelson
kg7gys

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 5:55 AM, kim campbell <swamprabbit1951@...> wrote:
What are you using for the lettering. If that is dry transfer letters, what is your trick for getting them to look so good. Straight.




--
I always thought the Universe was a wonderfully strange place until I studied Particle Physics - I now know the Universe is, in fact, profoundly odd in nature




--
I always thought the Universe was a wonderfully strange place until I studied Particle Physics - I now know the Universe is, in fact, profoundly odd in nature


Re: Mechanical work is done...

Nelson
 

Howdy Kim,

I used a transparent adhesive sheet designed for use in a printer.  I had planed to do the whole face of the unit but the paper was 8x11.5 inches and my radio is wider than 11.5 inches.  I ended up printing a sheet with a variety of sizes and fonts and cut out the ones that looked like what I wanted and then peeled the backing and stuck them on.  A smaller case would allow you to do a complete front panel as a single piece.  There is another message right below about using this and it looks really nice.

Nelson
kg7gys

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 5:55 AM, kim campbell <swamprabbit1951@...> wrote:
What are you using for the lettering. If that is dry transfer letters, what is your trick for getting them to look so good. Straight.




--
I always thought the Universe was a wonderfully strange place until I studied Particle Physics - I now know the Universe is, in fact, profoundly odd in nature


Re: FT8 on my uBITX #ubitx

Bill KC5SB
 

Yes, that's the very same case that I used.   I had another device in it that I rarely used, so I re purposed the case for my ubitx.  Had to make new front and back panels from aluminum though.


Re: Making front panel labels

John P
 

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 06:10 am, Vic WA4THR wrote:
I was looking for a way to easily label the front panel of my BitX40
Vic, I use one big decal for the entire panel. That way you don't see the edges of the individual labels. There is a full description of the process I use in the documentation for my Magnetic Loop antenna controller.
 
--
John - WA2FZW


uBITX M1, M2, M3, M4

Michael LeBlanc
 

I don't have a uBITX, but I'm considering building one from scratch. Looking at Farhan's 2017 schematic, he has indicated what looks like a 4-pin header labeled M1, M2, M3, and M4 which are grounded. There is a matching M1 in the audio section, and M2 is also in the audio section. Am I correct in interpreting these as jumpers that can be added or removed? If so, what is the purpose of each jumper?

Final question: are there any builders out there who, in addition to Farhan, of course!) have built the uBITX from scratch and have some words of wisdom to share?

Michael VE1LEB


Re: My uBitx with 5v mod #ubitx

 

Nigel,

Do a test. disconnect the unit from the load aka xBitx. Check the output voltage with the jumper not
installed. Like you accidentally knocked it off!!

If the voltage is more than 5 then hardwire the jumper and solder it. Better safe than sorry.

Raj


At 22-03-18, you wrote:
I used this UBEC @ 5v
https://www.banggood.com/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC-For-RC-Models-p-915037.html?cur_warehouse=CN

It has a small metal screen around it and the ferrite on the 5v output lead plus capacitor on the uBitx board (where I cut the track and soldered the 5v lead onto) forms an adequate LC filter on the 5v DC.
I can't detect any 'noise' on Rx, but as yet haven't transmitted.

I use the UBEC on model aircraft with a video transmitter (FPV) and don't see any noise in the signal.
The video transmitters are quite susceptible to 'dirty' DC and often shows as 'herringbone' lines in the received video.

Nigel.


Making front panel labels

Vic WA4THR
 

I was looking for a way to easily label the front panel of my BitX40 and was pointed to the use of an Avery product. It is a transparent plastic with an adhesive backing and you can print using either an inkjet or a laser printer. You then just cut the strips where you designed the label, peel the backing, and place on the panel. Really easy, and the results are pretty good. One sheet can produce a ton of labels, too. The product is Avery 4397.

=Vic=


Re: How to test speaker resistance

 

At 22-03-18, you wrote:
An ohmmeter isn't the proper tool. That's because what you want to know is the speaker impedance at audio frequencies, not its DC resistance. They are not the same thing.

You might get a reasonable estimate by using a true RMS voltmeter and an audio signal generator. Connect the signal generator to the speaker through a small series resistor, say 10 ohms. At several frequencies, measure the current into the speaker by measuring the voltage drop across that resistor, and measure the voltage directly across the speaker. The impedance at that frequency is then the ratio V/I. Do this at several frequencies across the audio range, since the impedance of the speaker likely varies a lot over that range. The average of the impedance measurements at all frequencies will give you an idea of the speaker impedance.

--
Art Greenberg
WA2LLN
art@...

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018, at 08:25, Dgyuro via Groups.Io wrote:
An ohm meter across the terminals is what it is 8 ohm, 4 ohm etc.
On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:25 AM, David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

OK. I am seeing various resistances listed for speakers. How would I test one? An ohm meter should indicate a short across the coil I would think. Please help.

Dave K8WPE


Re: Mechanical work is done...

kim campbell <swamprabbit1951@...>
 

What are you using for the lettering. If that is dry transfer letters, what is your trick for getting them to look so good. Straight.


Re: My uBitx with 5v mod #ubitx

Nigel G4ZAL
 

I used this UBEC @ 5v
https://www.banggood.com/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC-For-RC-Models-p-915037.html?cur_warehouse=CN

It has a small metal screen around it and the ferrite on the 5v output lead plus capacitor on the uBitx board (where I cut the track and soldered the 5v lead onto) forms an adequate LC filter on the 5v DC.
I can't detect any 'noise' on Rx, but as yet haven't transmitted.

I use the UBEC on model aircraft with a video transmitter (FPV) and don't see any noise in the signal.
The video transmitters are quite susceptible to 'dirty' DC and often shows as 'herringbone' lines in the received video.

Nigel.


Re: How to test speaker resistance

Art Greenberg
 

An ohmmeter isn't the proper tool. That's because what you want to know is the speaker impedance at audio frequencies, not its DC resistance. They are not the same thing.

You might get a reasonable estimate by using a true RMS voltmeter and an audio signal generator. Connect the signal generator to the speaker through a small series resistor, say 10 ohms. At several frequencies, measure the current into the speaker by measuring the voltage drop across that resistor, and measure the voltage directly across the speaker. The impedance at that frequency is then the ratio V/I. Do this at several frequencies across the audio range, since the impedance of the speaker likely varies a lot over that range. The average of the impedance measurements at all frequencies will give you an idea of the speaker impedance.

--
Art Greenberg
WA2LLN
art@...

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018, at 08:25, Dgyuro via Groups.Io wrote:
An ohm meter across the terminals is what it is 8 ohm, 4 ohm etc.
On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:25 AM, David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

OK. I am seeing various resistances listed for speakers. How would I test one? An ohm meter should indicate a short across the coil I would think. Please help.

Dave K8WPE


Re: How to test speaker resistance

Dgyuro <dgyuro@...>
 

An ohm meter across the terminals is what it is   8 ohm, 4 ohm etc. 


On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:25 AM, David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01@...> wrote:

OK.  I am seeing various resistances listed for speakers.  How would I test one?  An ohm meter should indicate a short across the coil I would think.  Please help.

Dave K8WPE


Re: Any gotchas replacing the TDA2822 with an LM386? #ubitx #ubitx-help

Robert Weiman <srsabu@...>
 

Thanks! Ordered some (and sockets) last night as mine also came with the WX version.


On Wed, Mar 21, 2018, 3:20 PM John McClun <john@...> wrote:
A drop in replacement - YES.  Look at the data sheets, exactly the same.

--
John
NQ3RP


KMK ver 2017 pcb update

radiomanyo@...
 

Hello everybody !

I found the uBITX accidentally on net surfing. My first impulse was to buy one from hfsignals. Being an older ham used wit constructions and after making lots of pcb to others incl. BITX of all kind I decided to build one myself . I saw the CM2KMK pcb but didn't like the PA , first of all because the transistor is not so easy to find.. So in winter time having long evenings with more or less to do I begin to modify the pcb created by KMK by adding the rest of the original uBITX tx circuits. Also added some mods  found  on forum like : switching the rx input and tx driver input with a relay, putting a pot for adjust the sidetone level, some s-meter circuitry, a fuse for the final stage.It's all tht components. Feel free to use it as it is or you can modify it by your requests. I checked the part I added , not  the imported KMK rx area.I have not  made the pcb yet but in next period  I intend to do , and build the transceiver.
See attached file created with SprintLayout6 . May be called yo6po 2018 version.
All the best from yo6po, Zoli