Date   

Re: uBITX Firmware (CEC) 0.30 released (Test version). #ubitx

Konstantinos Konstas
 

Hello Ian,

Thank you very much for the updated version (CEC) 0.34 which is the first that I have uploaded to my newly received UBitx.
It has greatly improved the way my trx operates.
I will be testing it for a while, but generally speaking what I've tested up till now works to my expectations. Congratulations.

One thing that it is not very clear to me is how the split mode works. Is there a link or video for it? It would save me some time from trying to guess how and it would be greatly appreciated. As you may figure out, I also like to chase some DX as a QRP station!

I would like to invest some time to some necessary hardware improvements, number one being adding AGC (testing at first the original schematic), and then adding the s-meter to pin7.
I hope I can also find some time to play with your UBitx Manager.

Taking this opportunity, I would also like to comment that you are doing a very excellent job with your version of firmware for UBitx, and we as users must feel very lucky for that. Please keep the good work.
 
Very sincerely,


Re: IRF510 more Volts = more W? #ubitx

Nick VK4PP
 

Maybe the bias needs re-adjusting for 24v operation?
I really dont know much about the technical operations of these things, I am still learing...
I am tempted to replace the Electro caps with 35v versions and try maybe 30v in the PA... I have spare IRF510s... lol.
Nick.,


Re: Anyone (US Only for now) need a uBITX Raduino repaired? #ubitx

KC9SGV <kc9sgv@...>
 

Hi Jim,
Good to know.
I might need your service later....
Ordered all the parts to try myself first.

The Raduino seems to be the Achiles heel here.
Break it, by reversing the connectors, or short some part of it out to ground by way of shoddy assembly practice, and your radio is done.
A Raduino replacement service is needed.
Not sure that HFsigs can keep up with that as well.

Bernie
KC9SGV


On Feb 5, 2018, at 4:20 PM, Jim Sheldon <w0eb@...> wrote:

That DOES present a problem - LOL.

I found that one does NOT want to power the Nano using the Vin pin if you are using an external supply greater than 12VDC!  The on board LM1117 regulator can't take that with the load of the processor and the I/O on it.  Smoke, fire and flames in the regulator - overvoltaged the processor on the Nano, put more than 5 volts onto the I2C bus so it wiped out the Si5251 Clock chip as well.

I got a real education in replacing the 5351 - LOL.  I have a cheap hot air rework station and it did a nice job removing the dead chip.  I have been playing with the idea of possibly breadboarding a Raduino and have some carrier PC boards for the 5351's.  Still have to solder the chips on the boards though.  I bough a handful of 5351A's from Digi-Key for 91 cents US apiece. 

The way to go was Chip Quik's "Tack" flux - not cheap but 10ml for $20 bucks will last a LOOOONG time.  Dab of it on each pad, position the chip carefully over it's pads and using a needle point tip on my soldering iron, tacked each pin to the board.  I made up a probe for my DVM using a small sewing needle and was able to confirm continuity and no shorts on all the pins.  Programmed a new Nano and replaced the one that burned up (put machined pins and sockets on things this time).  Everything fired up and ran just fine.  Just after I built the test fixture, I read the frequencies of the clocks on my nicely calibrated uBITX and wrote them down.  With the test set, I can go into Factory Alignment mode and with a freq counter attached to the Clock 2 output, I can actually set the frequency accurately and save it.  The BFO can be read on clock 1 and I had those figures too so setting it to the right frequency was a breeze.  After the repair, I re-installed it in the uBITX, tuned to WWV at 5.000.00 MHz (the only one I can hear in Kansas during the daytime) and I was only off by 150 Hz.  Sure saved a lot of time being able to pre-calibrate the clocks outside of the radio!

The only drawback is - the clocks have to be calibrated to the specific radio for accuracy, due to the variations in crystal filters.  You can, however get very close so if I had to replace a Nano for someone, I could pre-calibrate the clocks to close proximity of what they should be and the user could fine tune them in his/her rig.

Jim - W0EB


Re: IRF510 more Volts = more W? #ubitx

Vic WA4THR
 

Very odd, but I am now seeing the same thing on my BitX40v3. On the test bench I was seeing what looked to be an output that increased by the square of the PA voltage ratio, but since packaking, shorter leads, some common grounds, I actually see the same or even less output at 24v than at 12v (or 13.8). I must have some wiring issue, but I did directly jumper the 24v to the PA and saw no difference, so ??

=Vic=


New file uploaded to BITX20@groups.io

BITX20@groups.io Notification <BITX20+notification@...>
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the BITX20@groups.io group.

File: ubitx_V2_00R.zip

Uploaded By: Jim Sheldon

Description:
Latest NON I2C release from W0EB/W2CTX - ubitx_V2_00R contains totally restructured menu system - SPLIT is working - slight rewiring of CW Key Jack is required but this VASTLY improves the CW keying - full instructions are included in the PDF manual -- see README.TXT in the zipfile for change details.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.io/g/BITX20/files/%23ubitx%20ubitx%20release%20software%20from%20W0EBW2CTX/ubitx_V2_00R.zip

Cheers,
The Groups.io Team


Re: Anyone (US Only for now) need a uBITX Raduino repaired? #ubitx

Jim Sheldon
 

That DOES present a problem - LOL.

I found that one does NOT want to power the Nano using the Vin pin if you are using an external supply greater than 12VDC!  The on board LM1117 regulator can't take that with the load of the processor and the I/O on it.  Smoke, fire and flames in the regulator - overvoltaged the processor on the Nano, put more than 5 volts onto the I2C bus so it wiped out the Si5251 Clock chip as well.

I got a real education in replacing the 5351 - LOL.  I have a cheap hot air rework station and it did a nice job removing the dead chip.  I have been playing with the idea of possibly breadboarding a Raduino and have some carrier PC boards for the 5351's.  Still have to solder the chips on the boards though.  I bough a handful of 5351A's from Digi-Key for 91 cents US apiece. 

The way to go was Chip Quik's "Tack" flux - not cheap but 10ml for $20 bucks will last a LOOOONG time.  Dab of it on each pad, position the chip carefully over it's pads and using a needle point tip on my soldering iron, tacked each pin to the board.  I made up a probe for my DVM using a small sewing needle and was able to confirm continuity and no shorts on all the pins.  Programmed a new Nano and replaced the one that burned up (put machined pins and sockets on things this time).  Everything fired up and ran just fine.  Just after I built the test fixture, I read the frequencies of the clocks on my nicely calibrated uBITX and wrote them down.  With the test set, I can go into Factory Alignment mode and with a freq counter attached to the Clock 2 output, I can actually set the frequency accurately and save it.  The BFO can be read on clock 1 and I had those figures too so setting it to the right frequency was a breeze.  After the repair, I re-installed it in the uBITX, tuned to WWV at 5.000.00 MHz (the only one I can hear in Kansas during the daytime) and I was only off by 150 Hz.  Sure saved a lot of time being able to pre-calibrate the clocks outside of the radio!

The only drawback is - the clocks have to be calibrated to the specific radio for accuracy, due to the variations in crystal filters.  You can, however get very close so if I had to replace a Nano for someone, I could pre-calibrate the clocks to close proximity of what they should be and the user could fine tune them in his/her rig.

Jim - W0EB


Re: whistles in receive

Allard PE1NWL
 

On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 07:56 am, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
One of my earliest memories at about 3 years of age, maybe less, is being fascinated
by the console tube radio we had in the living room.
Peering around in back, face pressed against the wall, trying to see what was inside
and figure out how it worked.
Funny, that's exactly one of my earliest memories too.
I used to peek trough the holes in the rear panel. Inside was a mysterious glow and a warm smell came out:

Afbeeldingsresultaat voor Philips B3X92A

One day I turned the dial and strange beeps came out. My dad told me they were messages from saylors far away.
I never lost my fascination for radio waves since.

73 Allard PE1NWL


Re: uBITX Firmware (CEC) 0.30 released (Test version). #ubitx

Jack, W8TEE
 

Hi Ian:

I was wondering if you had plans to convert the support files for your software to *.cpp files from their current *.ino secondary file names (except for ubitx_30.ino)?

Jack, W8TEE


Re: IRF510 more Volts = more W? #ubitx

Nick VK4PP
 

HI,
I did this last night with the uBITX, went from 13.8 to 24v. and only saw an increase of +-2w.

80m 24v=12w 13.8v=10w
40m 24v=7w 13.8v=9w
20m 24v=3w 13.8v=4.5w
10m 24v=1w 13.8v=2w

Also cause weird display glitched during TX....
Thoughts?
73 VK4PLN


Re: whistles in receive

Dave Bottom <ars.kd6az@...>
 


image1.jpeg
Helluva Rush Order 5 (Military version)
...And it was for  in a rush back during WWII

Lotsa fun radios can be found for almost nothing. This one free except cost of gas to go pick it up and restoration parts. 

You can’t duplicate the smells as they warm the room. Part of the patina. 

Dave WI6R 

On Feb 5, 2018, at 10:40 AM, chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...> wrote:

And to think I have 1 old ICOM I'm to poor for any else lol

On 5 Feb 2018 18:35, "Jack Purdum via Groups.Io" <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
One can get carried away, however...

Inline image
Jack, W8TEE


From: Leland Lannoye <wa9aoe@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Monday, February 5, 2018 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] whistles in receive

There have been numerous articles in QST over the years on rebuilding these old rigs.  I found an article which I saved somewhere on building transistor substitutes for the tubes.  you could build them on small perf boards and set up a set of wires that corresponded to the pin out on the tubes.  At one time, someone was making modules to replace all the low power and receiving tubes on the Collins S line.  That was at least 40 years ago.  I don't do well on a lot of these tiny connections anymore due to age and aging eyes, but my history skills are still largely intact.
Lee, WA9AOE
PS: Still awaiting shipment on my Bitx.
On 2/5/2018 10:40 AM, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
The warm smells of an HRO steaming up... is there any hotroding one can do to these rigs?
- f

On 5 Feb 2018 12:02 am, "Leland Lannoye" <wa9aoe@...> wrote:
I am sitting here reading some of this information and studying the new technology.  When I was young (at leas 50 years ago), solid state technologies were either in their infancy or still a dream.  Our rigs were two pieces of equipment, a receiver and a transmitter with a variety of accessories.

Most of our receivers for those of us who were not well heeld in the financial area were of the single conversion genre with an if frequency of 455 kHz.  With little preselection capability, this relegated the ham bands 20 mtrs and above useless with hetrodyne images from frequencies 910 kHz either above or below the desired reception point. There, in that day, were three remedies to fix this. The first two were:

    1.)  add a really selective high gain preselector to tune the offending images out

    2.)  raise the if to something on the order of 1600 kHz which left bandpass selectivity at a substantial disadvantage.

The third option, and the most expensive in its day was double (or, even triple) conversion.  If  you were able to pay the 1958 price of over $300, you were in and there were few difficulties thereafter until the receiver aged and developed some bad shield grounds or worse.  The second or third conversion local oscillator would provide a cornu copia of birdies of one type or another. These included signals that were always there, I know the newer designs with balanced mixers and the like have few of these problems, but, it is worth considering.

An aging ham from way back.


Lee, WA9AOE


---
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Re: First Arduino sketch loaded

K9WIS
 

I didn't think anyone used code anymore...its all FT8...hi hi
Brian K9WIS

---- "Charles D. Smith" <@ChasAI4OT> wrote:
One book at a time ... your “projects” book is all I can handle right now ... I’m hoping if I put it under my pillow, I’ll learn some code ;-)
On Feb 1, 2018, at 9:21 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io<mailto:jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io>> wrote:

I know of a great book that can help you... :>)

Jack, W8TEE


________________________________
From: Charles D. Smith <@ChasAI4OT<mailto:@ChasAI4OT>>
To: BITX20@groups.io<mailto:BITX20@groups.io>
Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 8:42 PM
Subject: [BITX20] First Arduino sketch loaded

nobody laugh ... (ok, go ahead) ... I just loaded and modified my first sketch ... so changing out “world” and putting in my town isn’t much of a change, it’s something. Plus, I varied the count too ... woohoo!
before I plug the computer into the raduino, I’m going to get a much better handle on this stuff! But it’s very exciting to a pencil and paper guy!
72/73 de Chas ai4ot.


Re: No receive audio from antenna, Bitx40 #bitx40

KC9SGV <kc9sgv@...>
 

Hi Lisa,
Here....

Bernie,
KC9SGV


On Feb 5, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Lisa.beasley42@... wrote:

Bitx40 no receive audio at all when attached to an antenna or on a dummy load.  I have a speaker and headphone jack wired.  Baofeng mic and ptt are on separate 3.5 mm jack. VFO changes frequencies, Power comes on and appears to work as expected.  I have a 10 turn pot and made the modifications for tuning range within the options field.  Is there a description of basic troubleshooting with a multi-meter to test what continuity or amps should be present at certain points on the board or another way to narrow down the problem?


No receive audio from antenna, Bitx40 #bitx40

Lisa.beasley42@...
 

Bitx40 no receive audio at all when attached to an antenna or on a dummy load.  I have a speaker and headphone jack wired.  Baofeng mic and ptt are on separate 3.5 mm jack. VFO changes frequencies, Power comes on and appears to work as expected.  I have a 10 turn pot and made the modifications for tuning range within the options field.  Is there a description of basic troubleshooting with a multi-meter to test what continuity or amps should be present at certain points on the board or another way to narrow down the problem?


Re: Diy oscilloscope #parts

Jerry Gaffke
 

JYE sells it with all surface mount parts installed, you still have to add the through hole parts.
Here's what might be a good RF probe, suitable for low level signals, use it with a dvm:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RF-Active-Probe-0-1-500-MHz-with-AD8307-detector-/332405976109


On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 12:23 pm, Joe Puma wrote:
I would like to get on of these and a real one not a knockoff but I’m trying to find one build already. I’m not afraid to build the kit but I’d rather get it built at the moment. 
 
I’m also looking for a RF millivolt reader. I want to check some RF voltage points on my Yaesu for starters. It’s a good introduction for me to get started with using test equipment. 
 


Re: IRF510 more Volts = more W? #ubitx

Doug W
 

If you access the list from https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topics instead of an email client you will have access to the search function.  Searching for irf510 24v will yield enough reading to keep you busy for a while.  Best of luck with your experimenting.  Should your quest result in releasing the magic smoke, fear not, a search for irf510 replacement will get you back to good.


Re: Diy oscilloscope #parts

Joe Puma
 

I would like to get on of these and a real one not a knockoff but I’m trying to find one build already. I’m not afraid to build the kit but I’d rather get it built at the moment. 

I’m also looking for a RF millivolt reader. I want to check some RF voltage points on my Yaesu for starters. It’s a good introduction for me to get started with using test equipment. 


Joe
KD2NFC 



On Feb 1, 2018, at 4:54 PM, Doug W <dougwilner@...> wrote:

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 01:40 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Very nice of JYE-Tech to release all that, would be good karma to support them by avoiding clones.
It's more likely to work, and you are more likely to get support if it doesn't.
They specifically mention the SainSmart clone up on their website.
To build on Jerry's point, https://www.jyetech.com/Products/LcdScope/e138.php is worth a read.  I've been looking at these kits off and on and had no idea. 
I've purchased SainSmart filament in the past, never again.


Re: At long last!!

David Robertson <kd1na363@...>
 

Sorry about that. My order date was December 16, 2017. Hope the rest of you that are waiting I hope you get your radio soon
73
Dave KD1NA

--
Dave Robertson KD1NA


IRF510 more Volts = more W? #ubitx

Jim McKay
 

I could not find the answer on the forum but I apologize now if it has already been answered. Noting the need for an improved heatsink/s. Has anyone done any experiments with increasing the PA voltage  (brown wire) up 24V to see if the output significantly increases. I did this with a BITX40 for a significant increase in W.

Jim

 

 


Re: LTSpice simulation of uBitx Power Amp

Diver Martin <diver.martin@...>
 

Looking at the schematic, has anyone tried changing the turns ratio on T10, or monkeying with the preamp?  It would lower the drive level, but also lower the drive impedance.  One might also increase the resistance slightly of R90/93 (increasing the drive bias of the preamp stage, dangerous) or lowering the emitter degeneration resistors (R941, 911, 942 and 96) from 22 ohms to something like 10 ohms (Degeneration is useful here though, it provides linearity to the amplifier).

I use IRF530's in a different amplifier design that puts out 50W with about 3W in at 30MHz.  Not sure what the preamp stage is rated for, I'd assume ~0.5 to 1W tops.

On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 11:29 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
I suppose.
The LTSpice model of the IRF510 does assume worst case, perhaps that is part of it.
But the WA2EBY model is off from the performance reported in the QST article by more than I would expect when operating at 30mhz.
And the uBitx models pretty close to the performance we actually get.

Regardless, looks like we'd do well to hack the uBitx to use something closer to the WA2EBY circuit.
And if that doesn't give the required performance at 30mhz, then drive the IRF510's from a lower impedance source.
LTSpice is whispering to me that if driven hard enough, the IRF510's will do 30W at 30mhz.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 10:47 am, Diver Martin wrote:
> Let me know if anybody figures out why my model of the WA2EBY amp shows the output to be so much lower at 30mhz
 
To quote George E.P. Box, "All models are wrong, but some are useful."
 
Spice models are just that, models.  They're rarely right.  But they can tell you useful things about some of the mechanics of what's going on inside the system.
 




--
Martin Held - AE7EU
http://ae7eu.com/
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If there aren't any questions, then what is there to learn?


BITX40 Low audio volume with 8.5V to board/Raduino

Steve
 

Hi gang.  So I thought I'd get stupid and add complexity where none is needed.  Radio: BTX40, 1.27.7 'ware, basic hardware mods.  I put a buck converter between the power switch and the leads that feed B+ to the board and the Raduino- thinking I'll save some power, or be easier on those parts, temp-wise- and adjusted the voltage to 8.5.  Now, the previously robust speaker output is much diminished, and the volume control has no effect after about half it's initial rotational travel.  If I adjust the B/C up to maximum- 11.7V- still low volume. If I de-fuse the B/C and jumper around it (note that the led on the b/c lights up when I do this) and use the bench power supply to reduce the V in to 8.5V, the audio is a bit lower than with 13.8V, but the volume control functions as normal.  Note that the radio and all the wiring is still spread out over the bench....Removing the B/C is the easy solution, but I'm just wondering.....Aloha, Steve WH6ST