Date   
Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

Vince Vielhaber
 

There's also a manual for the Druzhba radio with schematic here:

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/69b585_f90fa858dbb54de2a7eec046267c06c6.pdf

Vince.

On 01/15/2018 09:16 PM, n2vdy via Groups.Io wrote:
On the rv3yf page there is a link to a manual for the Klopik radio. The
schematic for the filter is the same. There are YouTube videos showing
the radios in use.

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 05:51 pm, Arv Evans wrote:

N2VDY

It would be interesting to see a schematic of that crystal filter
that uses diodes to vary the bandwidth.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amateur-ham-radio-HF-Transceiver-Druzhba-M-MotherBoard-v4-6-KIT-/172451108452

https://www.rv3yf.store/bandpass-and-lowpass-filters

I recognize some, but not all, of their products as being the work
of Wim SP5DJJ.

Their web site is very slow so you need some patience to wait for
things to become visible.

Arv K7HKL
_._


On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 5:58 PM, n2vdy via Groups.Io
<n2vdy=yahoo.com@groups.io <mailto:n2vdy=yahoo.com@groups.io>> wrote:

I have a Russian radio kit I haven't put together yet called the
Druzhba-M. It has a crystal filter with varactor diodes that it
uses to vary the bandwidth of the filter.









Re: tx pop

Ryhor Harbacheuski
 

no problem, it's attached.
I believed this is very similar to what some folks used to kill BITX40
pop earlier.
The key here is to open the mosfet as soon as TX is on and to keep it
open a bit longer after going back to RX.
Mosfet is BS170
I feel this mod is very beneficial especially for CW - pops are
particular bothersome while keying.
Once again, this mod will decrease volume of cw tone, so some tweaking
or R253 may be necessary.
Funny enough in my case R253 was mistakenly 1K instead of 10K which
turned out to be just right after the mod was done.
Thank you Farhan for delivering this beautiful baby to us
Greg W3NW

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 3:16 PM, <nickpullen@...> wrote:
Hi, would you be able to provide a schematic for this Mod please?

Re: #ubitx Powering options? #ubitx

Michael Hagen
 

It is really not a good practice, why would you want circulating currents eating up batteries until equilibrium is met?

Ford made the decision to do it?  They had their reasons.

For Me, I would have never done it.  And I worked for Ford Aerospace for  a lot of years.  Yep, wonderful Newport Beach, Ca.

I did not to get in on that decision, they probably would not want my comments!.  It is not the right thing to do?

I guess if it works, OK?  They have sold lots of trucks.

Just buy  both batteries when you change.  Hope they are matched?  $150 ea.

Mike, WA6ISP






On 1/15/2018 5:47 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:
You're right, it's not a good idea to blindly parallel a bunch of batteries. 
But it can work just fine if they are of the same size and age and charge state.

If one has more internal resistance, that just means the other one will be doing more of the work.

However, if you connect them when not equally charged, one will charge the other.
In some cases the currents involved while the charge states equalize are excessive, far beyond
what either battery is rated for.  Could easily have an explosion.
Something to keep in mind, especially with Li-Ion batteries or large lead acid batteries.

Once the batteries in parallel reach the same charge state, there won't be any 
currents bouncing around. 
 
I have several of LED headlamps I bought on the web. 
Each has two 18650 Li-Ion batteries in parallel, they feed the LED through a resistor.
I doubt these particular 18650's have any kind of over-current protection, as the headlamps were quite cheap.
Use them all the time, work great.  And keep their charge just fine when sitting on the shelf.

We're off grid, I started out with  used golf cart batteries, wiring up multiple banks in parallel.
Around 10 KWH worth total, all having different histories and ages.
If anything, any extra internal resistance due to aging would have helped prevent excessive currents
if I had connected them in parallel without first bothering to check if the voltages were reasonably close.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 04:14 pm, Michael Hagen wrote:
You do not want to parallel batteries, difference in internal resistance will cause one to try to charge another, and around we go, a circulating current between the batteries that will run them both down.  And we don't even get to use the power!

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: uBITX woes, feeling disheartened. #ubitx

Jim Sheldon
 

Wow Nick, I had never thought of using a vacuum cleaner to suck off the solder!  There should be plenty of suction there for that and you could use some of that silicone tubing they use at the end of those spring loaded solder suckers to keep it from getting melted by the Iron.  The vacuum cleaner idea would also work quite well for getting surface mount components off a board using one of those hot air rework stations for the heat.

Thanks for a super idea and I'll have to build up something for my Shop Vac to do just this!

Jim Sheldon - W0EB

------ Original Message ------
Sent: 1/15/2018 8:31:02 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] uBITX woes, feeling disheartened.

2 Tips for you with replacing the relay.;

1: Check the new relay isnt polaraized before you install it.... see my experience...
2: A method i use to remove solder is to connect up a 8mm tube to the vacume cleaner via an adapter, and heat up the solder pad, then quickly suck the liquid solder away from each hole, works rather well...

Re: A little off Topic? SDR Program PC?

James Lynes
 

Mike:

I use gqrx on Ubuntu 14.04LTS.

I believe there are Windows and Mac versions. There is a RPI version also. Add a heatsink and fan to the board.

James

Re: A little off Topic? SDR Program PC?

Vince Vielhaber
 

You could always put Linux on it and run CubicSDR. I have one of those $20 SDR units with only a single SMA and Cubic runs it just fine.

Vince.

On 01/15/2018 08:05 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
I got one of those black boxes with a SDR inside. It does not have the
down converter as some, you change the parameters
in the program to get HF. It has 2 SMAs, HF, and then above.
I got it to work with SDR Sharp (#) on my PC. It is running W10. I
like it. Less than $30 for the Radio? Still need some kind of outside
antenna?

The website says SDR# does not work anymore for XP.
My Old laptop is XP, anyone know which program with the least problems
works for XP?
Any one with this experience?

73's
Mike, WA6ISP

Re: uBITX woes, feeling disheartened. #ubitx

Nick VK4PP
 

2 Tips for you with replacing the relay.;

1: Check the new relay isnt polaraized before you install it.... see my experience...
2: A method i use to remove solder is to connect up a 8mm tube to the vacume cleaner via an adapter, and heat up the solder pad, then quickly suck the liquid solder away from each hole, works rather well...

Re: uBITX woes, feeling disheartened. #ubitx

David Beal
 

Thank you so much Nick and Raj - 

Apparently, my brain went on for lunch and forgot to tell my body. 

I measure 0.3 ohms PTT ON and also OFF. 

A new relay should be here in a week or so. 
 

--
Dave Beal
AE6RQ

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

Jerry Gaffke
 

Farhan's notion of having a second ladder filter for CW in parallel with the 12mhz SSB filter seems a great solution.
He suggested going down to 1.8mhz or so for the CW filter as I recall,
the lower frequency of operation means the bandwith will be correspondingly smaller.
Should match the 200 ohm impedance of the present filter (or perhaps use additional transformer windings?).

The impedance of these ladder filters is very high for anything out of band, so the two filters do not interfere.
Switch filters by moving the second local oscillator.
 
I think someone in the forum has implemented this, said it worked fine
 

Re: #ubitx Powering options? #ubitx

Vince Vielhaber
 

Forgot about this point. $150 is cheap. I just spent $170 (inc tax) for one for my Durango. 5 year warranty tho, 3 year direct replacement.

Vince.

On 01/15/2018 07:46 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:

Glad I only have one at $150 ea!

Mike

Re: #ubitx Powering options? #ubitx

Vince Vielhaber
 

Ford? NEVER! '97 Dodge Ram. These were bought together so when they go bad they go back to O'Reilly together and new ones follow me home. Heavy things are easy to lift around here... I have a hilo!

Vince.

On 01/15/2018 07:46 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Probably Ford?

The proper way is to have a 24V starter, and they are put in series for
Start? Then charged though isolation diodes?

I think GM did that for Mil Trucks? Not sure though?

I bet you have to buy both NEW batteries of same make at same time?

You would not want an old one and new one paralled?

I just thought about when I changed my battery in my F150 4WD a year ago.

I could not properly lift it UP over the Fender (lifted 4WD). I have
to use a blanket not to scrape the paint!

They are sooo Heavy!

Glad I only have one at $150 ea!

Mike



On 1/15/2018 4:30 PM, Vince Vielhaber wrote:
My diesel truck has paralleled batteries. They go dead from time to
time but it's from other things dragging them down before doing it to
each other.

Vince.

On 01/15/2018 07:14 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
You do not want to parallel batteries, difference in internal resistance
will cause one to try to charge another, and around we go, a circulating
current between the batteries that will run them both down. And we
don't even get to use the power!

I think they did this on some vehicles like diesel trucks, I would think
you would want to disconnect them when not being charged?

I am not an expert on this, just seems bad?

73's

Mike, WA6ISP


On 1/15/2018 3:57 PM, Simon Rumble wrote:
Thanks Jerry that's exactly the flaw in my thinking right there! It
did seem a bit good to be true. So series wiring increases voltage but
not capacity. Makes sense.

Amending my spreadsheet, two lantern batteries (6V, 26 Ah) might be
the best option. Alternatively I'll have a look at some rechargeable
options but I'm not sure I'll be able to sort that by the end of the
week.

On Tue, 16 Jan 2018 at 10:22 Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
<jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io <mailto:yahoo.com@groups.io>> wrote:

Simon,

If you stack eight 1.8AH at 1.5V batteries in series, you get
12V at 1.8AH.
They would have to be in parallel to get 14.4AH, but then you only
have 1.5V.

Also, those AH ratings are typically for 20 hour discharge rates,
if you are sucking a couple amps they will fold up in minutes.
And battery current will get worse if you bump up power by using a
boost converter
to power the IRF510.

I'd recommend jacking into the cigarette lighter for 12v if you
are driving, bring a long cord.
If a short hike and a long operating session, maybe get a $20 lead
acid riding lawnmower battery.
Or use the Li-Ion battery pack from a drill motor or impact driver.

Avoid feeding your rig much more than 12v.

Jerry, KE7ER



On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 03:01 pm, Simon Rumble wrote:

So my question is about off-grid power. Can I get away with 8x
AA batteries in series or should I use a step up converter to
keep the voltage up? Looking at amp hours on paper I'd get
around 33 hours of operating (calculations here

<https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iMoxFaz4LxE1N9BUUOBxKgtoME8QLftqJYUnBnnUv7s/edit?usp=sharing>)
though I imagine there'd be quite a voltage drop by the end of
that, but even half that operating time would be pretty good.

Thoughts? I don't have time to set up a rechargeable option
really.



--
--
Simon Rumble <simon@... <mailto:simon@...>>
www.simonrumble.com <http://www.simonrumble.com>
VK2VSR
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

n2vdy
 

On the rv3yf page there is a link to a manual for the Klopik radio. The schematic for the filter is the same. There are YouTube videos showing the radios in use.

On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 05:51 pm, Arv Evans wrote:

N2VDY

It would be interesting to see a schematic of that crystal filter that uses diodes to vary the bandwidth.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amateur-ham-radio-HF-Transceiver-Druzhba-M-MotherBoard-v4-6-KIT-/172451108452

https://www.rv3yf.store/bandpass-and-lowpass-filters


I recognize some, but not all, of their products as being the work of Wim SP5DJJ.

Their web site is very slow so you need some patience to wait for things to become visible.
 
Arv K7HKL
_._


On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 5:58 PM, n2vdy via Groups.Io <n2vdy@...> wrote:
I have a Russian radio kit I haven't put together yet called the Druzhba-M. It has a crystal filter with varactor diodes that it uses to vary the bandwidth of the filter.

 

 

 

 

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

Jerry Gaffke
 

Apparently the Elecraft KX2 also used varacter diodes to vary the bandwidth from a ladder filter.
I'd think you would also have to vary the impedances it sees, or live with a not very flat passband.
  http://theradioboard.com/rb/viewtopic.php?t=3660

Another approach is to have two IF's of different frequency, each with its own crystal filter
By varying the local oscillator at the mixer between the two IF stages,
you can vary the total system bandwidth.
The first filter passband is moving around with respect to the second filter passband,
where they overlap is the system passband.
We'd be home free if the 45mhz filter on the uBitx was reasonably sharp edged (it is not).

Re: Creating Gerber files for pcb construction

James Lynes
 

I don't remember having to enter a size when i ordered. They calculated a smaller size than i thought i had used and adjusted the price down.

The drill file is in a different format than the others.

James

#ubitx Power Supply For uBitx? #ubitx

Michael Monteith
 

 I've been digging through messages trying to find an answer.  I purchased a uBitx and trying to figure what size power supply to purchase.   My thought is probably a 12v 5A power supply.   I'm thinking of using a buck-boost converter to convert it to a higher voltage for the PA side.   I'm not in a huge rush as I'm working on the case for my Bitx40 right now.  So just purchasing what I need for now.   This without any mods regarding power other than probably larger heat sinks.   With 12v 5A should be plenty for running the board and powering the converter and boosting the voltage up.   I need to look up what converter I can use.    I know they recommend a power supply with 12v 3A.   I wanted to have a margin in case I wanted to supply the PA side with larger voltage.   I'll have to keep researching for later on exactly how much I want the PA voltage to be.

  I hope that gives you a better idea of my plan.  So do you think 5 amps would be enough?  Assuming keeping the board the same and just adding larger heat sinks.   I just hope this is not quite one of those philosophical questions. lol

 Thanks
73, Michael
KM4OLT

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

Karl Heinz Kremer, K5KHK
 

Arv, take a look at this NorCal 40A manual - on pages 24/25 it shows a modification to the crystal filter that uses varistors: http://www.n5dux.com/ham/files/pdf/NorCal%2040A%20Transceiver%20-%20Manual.pdf

--
Karl Heinz - K5KHK

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

John Backo
 

Arv:

Yes, if the caps were varied together by the same amount, hence
the use of presumably matched variaps. Else, the ripple would vary quite a bit
with different caps at each pole.

john
AD5YE

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

Arv Evans
 

N2VDY

It would be interesting to see a schematic of that crystal filter that uses diodes to vary the bandwidth.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amateur-ham-radio-HF-Transceiver-Druzhba-M-MotherBoard-v4-6-KIT-/172451108452

https://www.rv3yf.store/bandpass-and-lowpass-filters


I recognize some, but not all, of their products as being the work of Wim SP5DJJ.

Their web site is very slow so you need some patience to wait for things to become visible.

Arv K7HKL
_._


On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 5:58 PM, n2vdy via Groups.Io <n2vdy@...> wrote:
I have a Russian radio kit I haven't put together yet called the Druzhba-M. It has a crystal filter with varactor diodes that it uses to vary the bandwidth of the filter.


Re: #ubitx Powering options? #ubitx

Jerry Gaffke
 

You're right, it's not a good idea to blindly parallel a bunch of batteries. 
But it can work just fine if they are of the same size and age and charge state.

If one has more internal resistance, that just means the other one will be doing more of the work.

However, if you connect them when not equally charged, one will charge the other.
In some cases the currents involved while the charge states equalize are excessive, far beyond
what either battery is rated for.  Could easily have an explosion.
Something to keep in mind, especially with Li-Ion batteries or large lead acid batteries.

Once the batteries in parallel reach the same charge state, there won't be any 
currents bouncing around. 
 
I have several of LED headlamps I bought on the web. 
Each has two 18650 Li-Ion batteries in parallel, they feed the LED through a resistor.
I doubt these particular 18650's have any kind of over-current protection, as the headlamps were quite cheap.
Use them all the time, work great.  And keep their charge just fine when sitting on the shelf.

We're off grid, I started out with  used golf cart batteries, wiring up multiple banks in parallel.
Around 10 KWH worth total, all having different histories and ages.
If anything, any extra internal resistance due to aging would have helped prevent excessive currents
if I had connected them in parallel without first bothering to check if the voltages were reasonably close.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 04:14 pm, Michael Hagen wrote:
You do not want to parallel batteries, difference in internal resistance will cause one to try to charge another, and around we go, a circulating current between the batteries that will run them both down.  And we don't even get to use the power!

Re: Matched xtals #ubitx #bitx40

n2vdy
 

The documentation says 700 to 2500. It is a 4 pole filter at just under 9 MHz.