Date   
Re: Modular BiTX40

Dimitar Pavlov
 

Hi,

I think, You need to solder and test pcb's for transceivers, before publish them.

73!LZ1DPN

On Saturday, November 4, 2017, 2:34:42 AM GMT+2, Juan Carlos Berberena Glez <cubanqrp@...> wrote:


It is my idea to conforming a modular rig.
My design requirement:
Main board have to be < 100 x 100 mm to use a PCb manufacturer discount as a prototype.
All the module have to be the same size interchangeable over the main board for experimenter or for teaching uses.
The main board would be assembly as a regular rig or will be assembly separate with each module.
The relay and the Qrp PA will be in other module with the option to snap in to the main board.
At this time the main board is empty, but It will be completed with all the modules for the regular use as a Qrp exciter.
Please any comment will be appreciate to improve the design idea.


Qrv's, 73's

Mr.Juan Carlos Berberena Glez BSc.
WJ6C ex/CO6BG


“If you have a penny and I have a penny and we exchange pennies, you still have one cent and I still have one cent.  But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange ideas, you now have two ideas and I now have two ideas.” 

Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)

Allard PE1NWL
 

On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 06:57 pm, Dexter N Muir wrote:
Would that be a different series/'branch' of code?
Yes it would.
One of my most important design criteria for the Raduino code is that it shall always work, even on a standard unmodified BitX40 (which uses Ashhar Farhan's tuning concept based on a potentiometer).
Theoretically we could create code supporting both concepts (tuning pot as well as encoder), allowing the user to choose. However, given the limited program space in the Arduino Nano, this seems practically impossible.

73 Allard PE1NWL

Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)

Allard PE1NWL
 

Hi,
I discovered a bug that the carrier burst is still not properly suppressed in CW-SPLIT mode. Normal (non-SPLIT) mode works OK.
I'll correct that soon.

73 Allard PE1NWL

Re: RX and TX LED

sofiullah
 

2K2 for Red LED

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 1:55 PM, Mvs Sarma <mvssarma@...> wrote:
just for indication.
 at 12V you better use 4K7

regards
 sarma
 vu3zmv

regards
Sarma
 

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:

Using 680 ohms will really make the LED bright.  I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.  Most work real nice on just a few ma.  2.2K should give nearly 5 ma.  What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or "biased" with voltage.  You put a current thru them, and the voltage is just a result.  You get what you get!

The current limit resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.   The 3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given current.

If you were running on a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.

Just a thought, most take 20 ma. OK.  For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K? 

Mike, WA6ISP



On 11/5/2017 9:52 PM, Prathap Naidu wrote:

You can use a dual color LED with 3 leads, centre is common gnd.

I have used a standard 3mm LED , you can also use 5 mm if you need, but the 3 mm is quite Ok

The 680 ohms is the dropping and current limit resistor, I have tapped the 2 wires from the K1 relay which alternates the +12V between Rx and Tx

73 Pop

VU2POP

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 11:11 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] RX and TX LED

 

Thank you VU2POP. Is the yellow wire for RX and the green wire for TX and then the 680 ohm resistor goes to ground? Is the LED 12 volts? I was planning on using a Red 3.3 volt LED to indicate TX and a green 3.3 volt LED to indicate RX

 

73

Ben

Kd2nou 

 

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 12:37 AM Prathap Naidu <vu2pop@...> wrote:

Hi ben

See attached pics, solder 2 wires below the K1 relay as shown, then to the Dual color LED , the centre of the LED goes to ground thru a 680 Ohms restistor.

Have fun

happy Bitxing

73 Pop

VU2POP

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Ben Piecora
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 2:51 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: [BITX20] RX and TX LED

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Could anybody tell me a way I can pull voltage from the board for an LED on RX and then pull voltage from the board for a TX LED and turn off the RX LED?

 

Thanks

Ben

KD2NOU

--

Ben

KD2NOU

--

Ben

KD2NOU


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...





--
Md Sofiullah
Assist. Manager
Pulse e Technologies Pvt. Ltd,
222, Phase-IV, Udyog Vihar,
Gurgaon-122015, Haryana
Cell: +91 9811842473
         +91 9654698929

Another protection diode is required

 

Folks,

This morning I was working on a bitx with raduino. While connected to the PC for uploading a sketch I noticed
the board was still receiving a station albeit at a lower volume. Then it occurred to me that 5V from USB
was flowing back to main board. This reverse flow through the 7805 can damage it and fry the raduino.

Put a 1N400x or similar from the main board 12V wire with the "arrow" towards the raduino.
Anode to main board -> cathode to raduino or the line bar on the diode towards the raduino.

This will not be required if you are not going to update your sketches.

Cheers

--
Raj, vu2zap
Bengaluru, South India.

BITX40 build for SOTA/POTA operation

quietglow@...
 

I posted this question to another forum and didn't get much support for the idea, so I figure I'll ask here:

"I'd like to get involved with some of the OTA groups -- Michigan's three year Parks On the Air, etc. I have ideas for my mobile station in my VW camper, but I'd like to put together something I can use when hiking etc. Here's what I am thinking.


Make a BITX40 in a Pelican case like this: http://www.k8es.org/archives/2017_February/


For an antenna either buy or clone a packtenna: http://packtenna.com/


My only concern is being limited to 40m. I haven't had my ticket long, but so far it does seem like 40 does get activity during the day around here (which is when I'd be using the mobile setup).

Workable OTA contesting pack rig or should I think about another radio?"

I should have added that I am learning CW, so phone operation is important for the time being anyway.

Thanks for your input!

Joe

Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst)

 

Allard : 

The only way I could see that you could cram in support for an encoder for tuning would be via conditional compilation. 
i.e. something like : 

#if defined (ENCODER_TUNING)
   // code for encoder  
#else
  // code for tuning pot 

Since you either use the pot or an encoder for tuning, not both,  this would potentially work  but it has the disadvantage of cluttering the code up
and making it a bit more convoluted. 

The default could remain as tuning pot to maintain compatibility. Anyone wanting to use an encoder would need to 
uncomment a define for ENCODER_TUNING (or whatever you would call it) so that code is compiled and used instead. 

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 

P.S. My idea doesn't consider the necessary pin assignments needed for the encoder and the encoder switch, which might conflict with 
existing PIN usage on the Nano. Since this might involve PIN reassignments, my suggestion would be to defer any consideration for this
until Raduino V2. 

Re: raduino v1.27 released (improved suppression of spurious burst) Rotary Encoder Version?

Michael Hagen
 

I did that on an old (1.09) Allard Version.  I made a tuning function with the same name as he has.

I can switch back and forth with the conditional assembly.

It works but I don't get any of the functions with the Push Button that use some other functions that involve the pot.

Like Calibration and such.  So it is a hack, in needing of lots of attention to get the options with the Push Button.

I moved the frequency change directly into the interrupt, I seemed at the time to have to much lag setting and reading an interrupt flag?

Still sometimes it seems to jump 2 steps when I tune.  I got pull-ups and 0.01uf de-bounce on the encoder.  Since the encoder

has resistors and my RaduinoX has them, I need to experiment with them at a higher value.  I think it is 10K in both place, meaning 5K pull-ups.  I may take them completely off or go up on the caps.  I use it for now.  I also have NO dynamic step changes.  The encoder bump switch sets 4 levels of steps.  I have it boot up at 1 KHz?  I know Jack has some fancy code for that.

Mike, WA6ISP


On 11/6/2017 5:23 AM, Michael Babineau wrote:
Allard : 

The only way I could see that you could cram in support for an encoder for tuning would be via conditional compilation. 
i.e. something like : 

#if defined (ENCODER_TUNING)
   // code for encoder  
#else
  // code for tuning pot 

Since you either use the pot or an encoder for tuning, not both,  this would potentially work  but it has the disadvantage of cluttering the code up
and making it a bit more convoluted. 

The default could remain as tuning pot to maintain compatibility. Anyone wanting to use an encoder would need to 
uncomment a define for ENCODER_TUNING (or whatever you would call it) so that code is compiled and used instead. 

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 

P.S. My idea doesn't consider the necessary pin assignments needed for the encoder and the encoder switch, which might conflict with 
existing PIN usage on the Nano. Since this might involve PIN reassignments, my suggestion would be to defer any consideration for this
until Raduino V2. 


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: RX and TX LED

 

My rule, for 12v I will use a 12K resistor for LEDs.

Considering todays LEDs brightness I must increase that value.


At 06-11-2017, you wrote:

Using 680 ohms will really make the LED bright.  I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.  Most work real nice on just a few ma.  2.2K should give nearly 5 ma.  What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or "biased" with voltage.  You put a current thru them, and the voltage is just a result.  You get what you get!

The current limit resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.   The 3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given current.

If you were running on a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.

Just a thought, most take 20 ma. OK.  For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K? 

Mike, WA6ISP

Re: Another protection diode is required

Michael Hagen
 

I have that diode on all my RaduinoX boards.  The other thing, I have left the 12V on my test fixture on many times while programming with the USB (by Mistake).  I have been Lucky.   I  know the rule is not to have two 5 V supplies going!

I have never blow a Nano so far.

Mike, Lucky


On 11/6/2017 2:49 AM, Raj vu2zap wrote:
Folks,

This morning I was working on a bitx with raduino. While connected to the PC for uploading a sketch I noticed
the board was still receiving a station albeit at a lower volume. Then it occurred to me that 5V from USB
was flowing back to main board. This reverse flow through the 7805 can damage it and fry the raduino.

Put a 1N400x or similar from the main board 12V wire with the "arrow" towards the raduino.
Anode to main board -> cathode to raduino or the line bar on the diode towards the raduino.

This will not be required if you are not going to update your sketches.

Cheers


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: RX and TX LED (LEDs 101)

Michael Hagen
 

I buy 1K and 10K by the hundreds.  So that's what it gets.  Buy the way, Raj is correct.  One or 2 ma on the newer LEDs is usually bright enough.  I go 1K on 5V and 10K on 12V for some reason.

Another thing, if he uses a Dual LED, only one resistor is needed from the common cathode to ground.   But because of the color, Red will probably be the brightest.  Might require going to separate resistors.  For learning sake, one should put your DMM in current mode  measure and try 1-10K for brightness and current.  Then measure the forward voltage for each resistor of the LED.  See how little it changes.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 11/6/2017 6:35 AM, Raj vu2zap wrote:
My rule, for 12v I will use a 12K resistor for LEDs.

Considering todays LEDs brightness I must increase that value.

At 06-11-2017, you wrote:

Using 680 ohms will really make the LED bright.  I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.  Most work real nice on just a few ma.  2.2K should give nearly 5 ma.  What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or "biased" with voltage.  You put a current thru them, and the voltage is just a result.  You get what you get!

The current limit resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.   The 3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given current.

If you were running on a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.

Just a thought, most take 20 ma. OK.  For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K? 

Mike, WA6ISP


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: Another protection diode is required

 

The Nano board has a diode that prevents your PC from getting fried.

After a raduino fry up! there was a short that smoked that diode in the nano and I pulled the plug in time
and that got me thinking and came up with a solution.

Raj


At 06-11-2017, you wrote:

I have that diode on all my RaduinoX boards.  The other thing, I have left the 12V on my test fixture on many times while programming with the USB (by Mistake).Â

Re: RX and TX LED

MVS Sarma
 

Also, the voltage drop across led changes depending on current.
 we cant take 3.3V as only white led has that voltage. As I did not read earlier posts, i really don't kmnow whether the om wants to use white led !!!
 

sarma
 vu3zmv

regards
Sarma
 

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 8:05 PM, Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
My rule, for 12v I will use a 12K resistor for LEDs.

Considering todays LEDs brightness I must increase that value.

At 06-11-2017, you wrote:

Using 680 ohms will really make the LED bright.  I = (12V - 3.3V ) / 680.  Most work real nice on just a few ma.  2.2K should give nearly 5 ma.  What folks are saying is an LED is not "operated" or "biased" with voltage.  You put a current thru them, and the voltage is just a result.  You get what you get!

The current limit resistor is picked for how bight you desire it to be.   The 3.3V spec will be the approximate voltage drop at a given current.

If you were running on a battery, you might try only 1 or 2 ma.

Just a thought, most take 20 ma. OK.  For an experiment, try 10K and then 1K? 

Mike, WA6ISP


Re: RX and TX LED (LEDs 101)

Vince Vielhaber
 

I buy 1K and 10K by the hundreds. So that's what it gets. Buy the way,
Raj > is correct. One or 2 ma on the newer LEDs is usually bright
enough. I go
1K on 5V and 10K on 12V for some reason.
I buy all my resistors by the hundreds. At Tayda they're only a penny or
less each. Doesn't cost much to have a good stock of the common values.

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/
http://www.metalworkingfun.com

Re: Display trim.

Bill Walker
 


On Nov 5, 2017, at 11:35 AM, Larry Smith <815cpu@...> wrote:

Try
Ebay number:    
201853209420
201853209420
eBay item number:
201853209420

On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 6:57 AM, G1WDF <wobblyandflo@...> wrote:
I've had an hour browsing the old posts looking for a source for a trim panel to go around the standard bitx40v3 display.
No luck finding anything. Does anyone have source for such an item? They seem to available from photos in the photos section.
A UK source would be ideal.

Cheers, Richard.





Re: BITX QSO Night, Sunday, November 5, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere

Karl Schwab
 

Mike, K8MGB and myself, KO8S, both in Warren, MI, were on 7.277 just before 7:00p local time for about 1 hour and heard no one.  de Karl, KO8S


On Sunday, November 5, 2017 11:10 PM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:


I tuned in late, but there was too much noise.  I was using the FT-101
and the noise floor was about an S7 or S8.

Vince.



On 11/05/2017 10:54 PM, KN4AAG Kevin Estep wrote:
> Only made one contact. NX2U, Michael, in TN.
>
> Heard a few, very light, but couldn't make out the details.
>
> Kevin - NC
> KN4AAG
>

--
  Michigan VHF Corp.  http://www.nobucks.net/   http://www.CDupe.com/
                          http://www.metalworkingfun.com





Re: BITX40 build for SOTA/POTA operation

 

Joe,

   I have taken mine to a few places had a great time with it cw/ssb/digi. I did put mine in a metal case and use a pelican for travel it fits pretty tight and has some added weight but works out pretty good. Phone will be a bit tough for the next few years but is more than doable.

I use either my homebrew slight inverted V 40m dipole or http://qrpkits.com/dualbanddipole.html I have used in the last few trips out. I do plan to put my bitx on 40m/20m but is still a work in progress.

Below I am at Mackinac Island last summer didn't get much but prop that day was pretty rough still was a great time and awesome view.

 

73

   Happy building

David

    N8DAH

 

 

 

Re: Another protection diode is required

philip yates
 

I know it sounds simple, bit like me, but can someone detail a diagram for me.
As I have fitted a socket for programming the Raduino, without removing any connectors
and dont fancy frying anything, let alone letting the magic smoke out.

I did notice when I updated to v1.26, I could still hear stations. Although it was the 1st time
I had the all the leads connected.

Phil-G7BZD  

On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 2:56 PM, Raj vu2zap <rajendrakumargg@...> wrote:
The Nano board has a diode that prevents your PC from getting fried.

After a raduino fry up! there was a short that smoked that diode in the nano and I pulled the plug in time
and that got me thinking and came up with a solution.

Raj

At 06-11-2017, you wrote:

I have that diode on all my RaduinoX boards.Ā  The other thing, I have left the 12V on my test fixture on many times while programming with the USB (by Mistake).Ā


Function button on A3 only working intermittently

jettoblack@...
 

Hi all,

Extreme newbie here. I recently received a BITX40 and installed the pavelmc sketch from https://github.com/pavelmc/bitx40 .  I added a function button on A3 and GND (orange and yellow wires respectively from the Raduino 8-pin harness). Usually when I first turn the radio on the button will work a few times but eventually the button stops responding until I unplug everything and let it sit for a while, then on next power up it will work a few times again.

I checked the continuity from A3 to GND while pressing & releasing the button and it seems to be working as expected.  Also the same thing happens if I take the button out and just short A3 to GND.

I'm not sure what to look at next.  Keeping in mind I'm a novice at understanding circuits, my only guess is that maybe the internal pull-up resistor for A3 isn't getting turned on or isn't working correctly and allowing A3 to float instead of being pulled high?  However the sketch I'm using does appear to enable the internal pull-up for this pin, so I'm not sure if that's it or what else it could be.

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Jason - W4JAL

Re: 80 Meters on BITX40?

radiomanjwt
 

Hi all,

I have done some experimenting with RFSIM, modelling the existing BPF, and analysing it. I have come up with an easy way to have some filtering, without just shorting out the BPF.
If you put a 470pf from the antenna input to the junction of L3 and C6, you will get a reasonable BPF at 80m.
Change it to a 6.3uh inductor , and you will get 30m. A 2.2uh will give you 20m.
These are not optimal as in the original nice 40m BPF, but an easy way to get at least some filtering from BCB and higher up. See attached pics.
P.S I have tried it, and it works great.!
Cheers

John de VK4KWT