Date   
Re: Modular BiTX40

JuanCarlos
 

Hi
I always have used PCBWell with better deals 
73’s
Jc

On Wed, 1 Nov 2017 at 7:22 AM, dvhammer_99 <DaleHammer@...> wrote:

Mike,

  

I just submitted the same gerber files to PCBWay for a quote and they came back with a price of $115 for the 10 boards.  They said that the files were for nine designs and did not qualify for the $5 price.  Any hints on how to get the lower quote?

Thanks.

73,

Dale  K9NN

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of mikedoty via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2017 3:11 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Modular BiTX40

 

Good afternoon,
I've had a few emails regarding the modular BiTX build and I probably should clarify a few things.  First, ON6RF has posted his gerber files on the link at Hackaday.com that I originally posted - just scroll down to around the middle of page to the 'Files' section.  Since he has placed these in the public domain they are available to anyone that cares to download them.  But, because it is HIS work, I'm not comfortable forwarding the files myself.  I don't know if he follows it but I'm sure that he can keep track of how many downloads have occurred and I'm certain he would be gratified to know that his work is appreciated.  What I have offered is to make my gerber file for the motherboard available and, if I can manage it, I will post it here in the files section in the Modular BiTX folder.  I will also include the pdf files that I created for each of the module showing component placement and values.

As for acquiring the circuit boards, as I stated earlier, I use PCBWAY.com for production.  Their prices are excellent and the turn-around time is hard to beat.  The cost of the panelized pc board for me was $5.00 for 10 boards with DHL shipping costs of $22.00 for a total of $27.00.  I ordered the boards late on a Monday and DHL delivered the finished boards the following Monday morning.  Their website says boards that measure 100X100 mm or smaller cost $5.00 for 10 boards so whether you order 1 or 10, the cost is the same.  To complete the build you will need 3 boards to have enough bi-directional amp modules so, if you're interested in following thru with building a modular version, you could perhaps join with two other interested parties and split the cost between you.  With 3 boards you will be able to build a complete transceiver and have 2 extra modules for experimentation for every section except the bi-directional amps.  As an example, on my first prototype I built the double balanced mixer as designed and a second one using an ADE-1 to compare the results.  For the record, there was absolutely no noticeable difference between the two.  I also built a 4-crystal filter as designed and an 8-crystal QER filter on a second board for comparison.  There was a definite difference between these two modules. 

I hope this clears up some of the questions and I'm still available via direct email to answer questions specific to my build or class presentation.  I'm currently working on the assembly manual for my class and when finished I will post it also in the files section.
--73-- Mike  --  W0MNE



--


Qrv's, 73's

Mr.Juan Carlos Berberena Glez BSc.
WJ6C ex/CO6BG


“If you have a penny and I have a penny and we exchange pennies, you still have one cent and I still have one cent.  But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange ideas, you now have two ideas and I now have two ideas.” 

Re: Modular BiTX40

dvhammer_99
 

Mike,

 

I just submitted the same gerber files to PCBWay for a quote and they came back with a price of $115 for the 10 boards.  They said that the files were for nine designs and did not qualify for the $5 price.  Any hints on how to get the lower quote?

Thanks.

73,

Dale  K9NN

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of mikedoty via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2017 3:11 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Modular BiTX40

 

Good afternoon,
I've had a few emails regarding the modular BiTX build and I probably should clarify a few things.  First, ON6RF has posted his gerber files on the link at Hackaday.com that I originally posted - just scroll down to around the middle of page to the 'Files' section.  Since he has placed these in the public domain they are available to anyone that cares to download them.  But, because it is HIS work, I'm not comfortable forwarding the files myself.  I don't know if he follows it but I'm sure that he can keep track of how many downloads have occurred and I'm certain he would be gratified to know that his work is appreciated.  What I have offered is to make my gerber file for the motherboard available and, if I can manage it, I will post it here in the files section in the Modular BiTX folder.  I will also include the pdf files that I created for each of the module showing component placement and values.

As for acquiring the circuit boards, as I stated earlier, I use PCBWAY.com for production.  Their prices are excellent and the turn-around time is hard to beat.  The cost of the panelized pc board for me was $5.00 for 10 boards with DHL shipping costs of $22.00 for a total of $27.00.  I ordered the boards late on a Monday and DHL delivered the finished boards the following Monday morning.  Their website says boards that measure 100X100 mm or smaller cost $5.00 for 10 boards so whether you order 1 or 10, the cost is the same.  To complete the build you will need 3 boards to have enough bi-directional amp modules so, if you're interested in following thru with building a modular version, you could perhaps join with two other interested parties and split the cost between you.  With 3 boards you will be able to build a complete transceiver and have 2 extra modules for experimentation for every section except the bi-directional amps.  As an example, on my first prototype I built the double balanced mixer as designed and a second one using an ADE-1 to compare the results.  For the record, there was absolutely no noticeable difference between the two.  I also built a 4-crystal filter as designed and an 8-crystal QER filter on a second board for comparison.  There was a definite difference between these two modules. 

I hope this clears up some of the questions and I'm still available via direct email to answer questions specific to my build or class presentation.  I'm currently working on the assembly manual for my class and when finished I will post it also in the files section.
--73-- Mike  --  W0MNE



Re: BITx40 build and updates #bitx40help

Vince Vielhaber
 

Seems to me it would be a good use for the group's wiki.

Vince.

Just wondering if there is a single resource that covers all the required
mods and fw updates to optimize this product. Scrolling thru a lot of
posts seems to be a bit drawn out in tyring to sort thru what needs to be
done and the 'gotchas' in the build.
--
AncelB, MIT EE6002

Re: Bitx Xtal filters

Dexter N Muir
 

To continue (but probably unnecessary):

Unplug antenna and repeat finger test, there's a click when tapping X4 can. Wind up the volume and X4 is now sensitive (must be at least a further 20dB down). I've not bothered earthing that one.

Cheers all ...

Re: Arduino USB cable extension ???

F1NQP JanJack
 

Thank you very much for the information.
Have a good day Ted.

Re: Arduino USB cable extension ???

Ted Doell
 

Hi All

If you search Aliexpress for "usb mini usb cable 20 cm" you will see many suitable cables, you need one with a right angle end and the are available in left or right make sure you get the correct one.

Ted

ZL1BQA


On 1/11/17 8:04 PM, F1NQP JanJack wrote:
Hello Phil.
The problem is to find the compatible cable. Not easy to find among the many sellers on the net.
Thank you very much and good day.
73 and good day.

Re: Arduino USB cable extension ???

F1NQP JanJack
 

Hello Phil.
The problem is to find the compatible cable. Not easy to find among the many sellers on the net.
Thank you very much and good day.
73 and good day.

Re: Arduino USB cable extension ???

philip yates
 

Yes, I use a short cable to connect to the rear panel from the Arduino, saves taking the case apart
for every update, or rather it will when I finish the build.
I found a cable with a right angled plug, saves wasting space on the front panel.

Phil - G7BZD

On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 9:02 PM, F1NQP JanJack <f1nqp@...> wrote:
I found:

https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/30044


BITx40 build and updates #bitx40help

 

Just wondering if there is a single resource that covers all the required mods and fw updates to optimize this product. Scrolling thru a lot of posts seems to be a bit drawn out in tyring to sort thru what needs to be done and the 'gotchas' in the build.
--
AncelB, MIT EE6002

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Dexter N Muir
 

Sane, Mike! Just for interest, the maths. Given each LED drops 1.3V or so and 5V supply, LED current (with your link in place) is about (5 - (2*1.3))/110 = 22mA or so, so given quiet Rx rig current of 140mA or so @ 12V supply (measured), the backlight is not all that great a drain.

73 ...

Re: Bitx Xtal filters

Dexter N Muir
 

Sorry, folks. Typos galore and hit Enter too soon. Try this:

F5RCT's post highlighted one of my findings. While struggling for receive capability, I used the 'finger test', finger to screwdriver blade tapping various places along the chain. There was at that point considerable 'birdie' reception, but little or nothing from the antenna. I found by tapping the Xtal cans considerable increase in the birdies, particularly at X3. Earthing that one's can killed enough of them to reveal Antenna reception underneath all that 'crud'. So, recommendation: a short link from X3 can (at least, possibly even better *all*) to the nearby 0V 'net' in the 20/50's bi-amp module area (Q2/Q5).

73...

Bitx Xtal filters

Dexter N Muir
 

F5RCT's pot highlighted one of my findings. While struggling for receive capability, I use the 'finger test', finger to screwdriver blade tapping various places along the chia. There was at that point considerable 'birdie'; reception, but little or nothing from the antenna. I found by tapping the Xtal cans considerable increase in the birdies, particularly at X3. Earthing that one's can killed enough of them to reveal Antenna reception underneath all that 'crud'. So, recommendation: a short link from X3 can (at least, possibly even better *all*) to the nearby 0V 'net' in the 20/50's bi-amp module area.

73 de ZL2DEX

Re: Board Layout Drawing?

Smitty, KR6ZY
 

Something I noticed a while back, the schematic is laid out almost exactly the same as the board, at least at the block level.



Roughly matches the board oriented like this:


I don’t know if it’s intentional, but this has helped me find things on the board several times.

-Mark

On Oct 30, 2017, at 9:29 AM, Grayson Evans <wa4gvm@...> wrote:

Is there a drawing someplace that shows component placement on the board? Trying to find the components on the board from the schematic is giving me a headache!

KJ7UM, Grayson


Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Michael Hagen
 

My PCB ( RaduinoX) has a place for a 1W resistor to lower LCD Back light current.  It is marked "R9", but I ship it with a shorted wire across it.

This could also be used for a switch for back packers to turn off the Back light.

Mike, WA6ISP


 10/31/2017 5:34 PM, Dexter N Muir wrote:

I did that for 'tuning clicks'. 220uF *just* did the job - I'd recommend 470 or more. My original (banjaxed) raduino was drawing excessive current, though still under 1A, so my 47E was 2W (what was to hand). My new (un-modded) raduino runs cool anyway, but I left the R and C in place - insurance? Swap sides for the 7805 is pretty much a given.

Mike, have you considered a 500E pot for display brightness, or a switchable resistor, in series with the (series) LEDs? The existing resistor is marked 111 - I presume 110E - so something of that order (shouldn't need to be wire-wound) would give a useful 'dimmer' for less-intrusive night-ops.

73 de ZL2DEX


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Michael Hagen
 



On 10/31/2017 5:34 PM, Dexter N Muir wrote:

I did that for 'tuning clicks'. 220uF *just* did the job - I'd recommend 470 or more. My original (banjaxed) raduino was drawing excessive current, though still under 1A, so my 47E was 2W (what was to hand). My new (un-modded) raduino runs cool anyway, but I left the R and C in place - insurance? Swap sides for the 7805 is pretty much a given.

Mike, have you considered a 500E pot for display brightness, or a switchable resistor, in series with the (series) LEDs? The existing resistor is marked 111 - I presume 110E - so something of that order (shouldn't need to be wire-wound) would give a useful 'dimmer' for less-intrusive night-ops.

73 de ZL2DEX


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Dexter N Muir
 

I did that for 'tuning clicks'. 220uF *just* did the job - I'd recommend 470 or more. My original (banjaxed) raduino was drawing excessive current, though still under 1A, so my 47E was 2W (what was to hand). My new (un-modded) raduino runs cool anyway, but I left the R and C in place - insurance? Swap sides for the 7805 is pretty much a given.

Mike, have you considered a 500E pot for display brightness, or a switchable resistor, in series with the (series) LEDs? The existing resistor is marked 111 - I presume 110E - so something of that order (shouldn't need to be wire-wound) would give a useful 'dimmer' for less-intrusive night-ops.

73 de ZL2DEX

Re: Customs charge

Brent Seres/ VE3CUS
 

What Dex says is correct. I ordered a jbot amplifier board by India Post, took about 1.5 weeks only, no duty or tax

Brent 
VE3CUS

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Vince Vielhaber
 

Your connector isn't soldered in.

Vince.

On 10/31/2017 07:23 PM, Michael Hagen wrote:
Move the 7805 to the back of the PCB.

Add 47 Ohm and a bypass cap to the front of the regulator.

I have done this on my RaduinoX PCB, as well as Bolting the regulator to
a ground heat sink with a 6-32 screw in nut.

No heat problem after that. No need for another regulator.

This should have been done originally.

Here is a picture of RaduinoX. Many problems Fixed. USB on the other
side. More connectors.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 10/31/2017 3:51 PM, zl3gsl@... wrote:
My approach is to add a 7808 regulator at the power input, so the
voltage drop is in two stages. This would feed only the "12V" input
to the main circuit. The "PA12"
would still be fed from the power supply input.

73, Graham ZL3GSL
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

Michael Hagen
 

Move the 7805 to the back of the PCB.

Add 47 Ohm and a bypass cap to the front of the regulator.

I have done this on my RaduinoX PCB, as well as Bolting the regulator to a ground heat sink with a 6-32 screw in nut.

No heat problem after that.  No need for another regulator.

This should have been done originally.

Here is a picture of RaduinoX.  Many problems Fixed.  USB on the other side.  More connectors.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 10/31/2017 3:51 PM, zl3gsl@... wrote:
My approach is to add a 7808 regulator at the power input, so the voltage drop is in two stages.  This would feed only the "12V" input to the main circuit.  The "PA12"
would still be fed from the power supply input.

73,  Graham ZL3GSL

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: l7805cv Gets hot! #bitx40help

zl3gsl@...
 

My approach is to add a 7808 regulator at the power input, so the voltage drop is in two stages.  This would feed only the "12V" input to the main circuit.  The "PA12"
would still be fed from the power supply input.

73,  Graham ZL3GSL