Date   
Re: On the subject of fake IRF510

Norberto Modanesi
 

Hi
Is it possible to attach a Peltier cell to the transistor case to help heat sink?
 
73 de LU5DNM
 
Norberto Modanesi
San Nicolás

----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Hansen
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 11:38 AM
Subject: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

Saw this Hackaday post related to the BITX, thought others might find it interesting.

Re: Starting Over

KC8WBK
 

I have 3 BITX40's.  The first one had loose toroids flopping about and it worked for a while but I tried to tighten up the toroids and it changed something and I no longer could tune the analog VFO to 40 meters, so I bought a second board with one of those newfangled Raduinos.  That board had a broken toroid wire, which I fixed.  I got that one working but did a few mods to it, changing resistors for less drift and due to poor soldering work had variable audio output.  I then ordered another board and a Raduino for the first board.

I got board 1 to work with the Raduino and installed it in a case and it seems to work well after I went through and tapped all of the solder joints that I had worked on and found one cold joint that made noise as I gently tapped the resistor.  With a little heat on the solder joint, board 1 was working well in its case.

I got board 3 to work but had intermittent problems related to my case and installation, later I found a solder blob grounding the speaker to the case, which was also grounded to the antenna.  So after removing the blob, things worked much better.   I also did the 13.8V power supply thing and was lucky enough to shut down the radio before any damage was done.  I installed a really nice PTT switch out of my junk box on the board 3 case, oops, it was a normally on button which caused me to blow the IRF510.  After installing a new PTT switch and replacing the IRF510, board 3 works great.

I built a BITX40 repair station which is a piece of wood with Raduino, pots, speaker and connectors set up to allow me to work on a board.  It has a 12V power take off so I can use it to build an AGC and experiment with 20m bandpass and lowpass filters.  It is set up so that I can take any of my boards and mount it and have easy access for testing probes, or working on the board.  I installed board 2 on the repair station and it seems to be working OK now.  I will soon be modifying it so who knows how long it will be working.

I think that if you have a good case and good solder joints on your connections, the BITX40 can be a reliable radio, as long as you don't take it apart a lot and change things.  Most of the problems that I had were related to poor building techniques, which caused me to learn how to do better. 

I really like that case, I think it will make for a much more reliable radio.  A lot of the problems I had were related to poor self-built case design, not enough clearance, forcing connectors, squeezing the Raduino in and out.  A ready made case solves a lot of problems.  I may need another radio to build one of those, it would make a nice mobile rig.

Re: Starting Over

Curt M.
 

Much to my surprise the new kit showed up today instead of tomorrow which was the scheduled delivery day.  I opened the box and just quickly checked to see if all of the toroids were attached and if anything looked incorrect on the main board.  From what I can see everything looks fine.  The two toroids (L7 & L6?) back by the antenna connector are leaning over a little bit but nothing that looks like they need straightened back up.  I suspect that they will be fine the way that they are?

So I guess tonight I'll get it installed in the case and power it up.  Keeping fingers, toes and eyes crossed.

Re: Starting Over

David Woodward
 

cool hope to catch you on the air soon...

On Jul 18, 2017 2:08 PM, "Curt M." <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
Much to my surprise the new kit showed up today instead of tomorrow which was the scheduled delivery day.  I opened the box and just quickly checked to see if all of the toroids were attached and if anything looked incorrect on the main board.  From what I can see everything looks fine.  The two toroids (L7 & L6?) back by the antenna connector are leaning over a little bit but nothing that looks like they need straightened back up.  I suspect that they will be fine the way that they are?

So I guess tonight I'll get it installed in the case and power it up.  Keeping fingers, toes and eyes crossed.

Re: On the subject of fake IRF510

Michael Hagen
 

No, I experimented with them for several projects.

They are SO inefficient.  It was so disappointing!  I wasted a lot of time wondering what their appeal was.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 7/18/2017 10:25 AM, Norberto Modanesi wrote:
Hi
Is it possible to attach a Peltier cell to the transistor case to help heat sink?
 
73 de LU5DNM
 
Norberto Modanesi
San Nicolás
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Hansen
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 11:38 AM
Subject: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

Saw this Hackaday post related to the BITX, thought others might find it interesting.


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: On the subject of fake IRF510

Norberto Modanesi
 

Thanks.
 
Norberto Modanesi
San Nicolás

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

No, I experimented with them for several projects.

They are SO inefficient.  It was so disappointing!  I wasted a lot of time wondering what their appeal was.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 7/18/2017 10:25 AM, Norberto Modanesi wrote:
Hi
Is it possible to attach a Peltier cell to the transistor case to help heat sink?
 
73 de LU5DNM
 
Norberto Modanesi
San Nicolás
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Hansen
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 11:38 AM
Subject: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

Saw this Hackaday post related to the BITX, thought others might find it interesting.


-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

John P
 

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 08:23 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
Note that both projects use the Mega 2560 Pro Mini. The one from Banggod will NOT work, as it's pins are off by 0.10". I use eBay #162264493523.
Searching for that item number on eBay comes up empty. Do you remember the seller's ID?
 
--
John - WA2FZW

Re: Starting Over

Jerry Gaffke
 

Curt,

Given your problems thus far, be suspicious of the 13.8v power supply.
Perhaps follow the 13.8v supply with an LM2940CT-12 three terminal regulator,
but power the IRF510 directly from your 13.8v supply.  (The more easily obtained LM7812CT also works.)
I run my main board from a 12.0v  2.5A PhiHong switching supply (a desktop brick), no trouble with noise.
A small 12v lead acid battery might also be a good choice (do not charge it while powering the Bitx40.)
There are parts on the board that are getting too hot  even at 12.0v (Q13 and R141, I'm looking at you),
that gets much worse at 13.8v.
Put tape over loose wire ends, many have blown Raduinos by have having a wire touch the IRF510 heatsink.
Make sure the antenna/dummyload is well connected by using an ohmmeter with power to the rig off,
as someone else here (but only one person so far) has reported trouble with RF destroying a Raduino.
Monitor current into the board, should be around 150ma when receiving while using the 12v supply,
maybe an Amp or so when transmitting into 50 ohms using 12v into the IRF510.
Once you are sure it all works, then maybe try offering the IRF510 24v if you want to go QRO,
but keep the main board at 12.0v max. 
You'll need a larger heatsink (preferably with a mica insulator and heat transfer grease) for the IRF510
and a half dozen IRF510 spares on hand before bumping up the power with the 24v into the IRF510.

Keep in mind, even at 2x$59, this is still way cheaper than anything comparable.
They cut a few more corners at Hfsigs than they do at Elecraft, but that's the way most of us
here on the list like it.  Keeps us out of bar fights on Saturday nights.
If it gets too frustrating, sell it to somebody else here who has the gear to troubleshoot it.

Good luck!
Jerry, KE7ER

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

The vendor's name is Items in wideenm991 store on eBay! . See # 162593120234.


Again, if you buy multiples, tell them I said you might give a discount if multiples are ordered...can't hurt to ask.

Jack, W8TEE


From: John P <j.m.price@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 08:23 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
Note that both projects use the Mega 2560 Pro Mini. The one from Banggod will NOT work, as it's pins are off by 0.10". I use eBay #162264493523.
Searching for that item number on eBay comes up empty. Do you remember the seller's ID?
 
--
John - WA2FZW



Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: Tuning clicks

YT5AAA
 

Inspired by "1000 uF capacitor straight to the raduino power connector P3" approach, I tried the same (soldered 1000uF/25V directly to P3 pin header - with almost no effect.
Then added a bit of resistance directly in to the orange/+ line (see picture below)... and clicks are gone!
Resistance consisted of 3 x 10 Ohm / 0.5W in parallel (better safe then sorry) but based on voltages actually measured (see picture below) anything small enough (eg. 10 Ohm or smaller / 0.25W) would probably do as well.
For purists, an inductive choke of some kind and some value instead of resistance would be a proper way to go, but there's nothing on that board (Si5351/arduino nano) which critically requires 12V, so simple resistance is just fine.

73!
Nik, YT5AAA

Re: Tuning clicks

Jerry Gaffke
 

I'm not a purist, so not an authority.  But I'd prefer a resistor here over an inductor, since a few volts drop across that resistor means the LM7805 won't be heating up so much (the resistor will take some of the heat).  And that resistor could be a lot more than 3.3ohms.

Not sure exactly what current the Raduino takes, but from Nik's figures it should be around (13.75v-13.5v)/3.3ohms = 75ma.  The LM7805 on the Raduino wants a couple volts of headroom, let's give it 3 volts of headroom, so wants to see 5v+3v = 8v going in.  Assuming a 12.0v supply we will have 4 volts across that new resistor.  The resistor should be about 4v/75ma = 53ohms, and needs to dissipate 4v*75ma = 0.3 watts.  With a 47 or 50 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in place, the LM7805 will be dissipating less than half as many watts as it did without the resistor, won't get nearly as hot.  

Jerry, KE7ER


On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 01:53 pm, YT5AAA wrote:
For purists, an inductive choke of some kind and some value instead of resistance would be a proper way to go

BitX on Display

lostfrogsrecords
 

Greetings BitXers,

The Nashville and Middle Tennessee HamQuest is on the 29th, and WCARES has a booth there.  I have offered to set up a BitX display and will be on the air with some 40M hamstick or something.  I welcome all to show off your BitX build in whatever state it is in, W4DML and I will have ours there, mine will be operating.

                                                                                                                                           HamQuest 2017
                                                                                                                                      SATURDAY, July 29, 8 AM

                                                                                                                                                                                            Wilson County Fairgrounds, Lebanon, TN

Breakfast and coffee available directly adjacent to venue.
Arrive early for best deals!!  
Bring exact change for quick entry: $5.00
Talk-in frequency: 147.105 + 156.7


This display is going to be used again, I have filled out the application to have a booth at the Nashville Mini Maker Faire, showing the BitX radio with hacks and cool enclosures, a ham radio GOTA station, and a display of the 3D printed BitX radio parts.
If I get approval we will have a chance to show the maker community the BitX radio and get folks on the air.  Thanks to Janise for the idea and inspiration.

http://nashville.makerfaire.com/


Dave, KI4PSR




Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

John P
 

On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 12:42 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
The vendor's name is Items in wideenm991 store on eBay! . See # 162593120234.
Thanks Jack! Did you get my email about the VFO boards?
 
--
John - WA2FZW

Re: Starting Over

Willy
 

Hi Curt, I have had my bitx on the air for about 6 months now and have made hundreds of contacts from my Rhode Island  QTH from South Africa to California with no problems. I have a nearly stock BitX with the exception of a 10 turn pot and Allard's mods running about 6 watts SSB and a little more on CW. I am using a 30 Ah LiFPo  battery most of the time at a little over 13 volts. 

The radio has worked flawlessly,and I have little interest in using my commercial rigs. There are a few things that I will work on to improve but, all in all I, will also say it is the best $59 I have spent. I am well on my way to BitX DXCC and WAS. I am confident that you too can have the same BitX experience. All that is needed is patience, a positive attitude, and most important, a good antenna. I am only using an inverted V at 50 ft but I make sure it is well matched to whatever frequency I am using.

I did trouble shoot a BitX 40 that the owner thought was beyond help and discovered several simple wiring errors that had destroyed  his mic element and that did not follow HFsigs instructions even though the owner had confirmed proper wiring many times. Sometimes one needs a break to get a fresh perspective.

Have great confidence that you will love this wonderful little radio/learning tool. 
73, Willy W1LY



On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 11:19 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Some have mentioned that they are substituting different displays for the Raduino board. Perhaps people like Curt who need a new Raduino can buy the ones from those who don't need them...win-win.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Starting Over

Hi Arv, I'll back up a little.  While troubleshooting my original Bitx transmit issue I switched from a 12vdc 1.5 amp wall wort supply to my Samlex 13.8v power supply.  Within 30 seconds I noticed that the top row of the display went to all black boxes.  The only thing I was doing was adjusting RV1 and RV136.  Being that the display is controlled by the arduino I powered the radio down and connected the USB cable to the arduino to see if maybe it lost it's programming.  The arduino would no longer communicate.  I ordered some replacement nanos and I unsoldered the original nano and installed a new nano.  The new nano would take the programming and I can now hear audio on the radio and tell that by tuning the VFO that it was partially working but the display still had black boxes on it.  I tired to see if now it was a contrast problem but it's not.  So I have a felling the board that the nano is soldered to took the same hit that the original nano took and that's why the display still doesn't work as it should.  Being that I had ordered a new kit I didn't feel that it was worth also ordering a new radrino board at this time because I still had a main board that has some issues and had a whole new kit coming in.  So that's where I'm at with the original kit.

Curt



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Re: Starting Over

Bill Meara
 

Curt:  You should definitely try to get the original BITX to work.  Being able to work on these rigs is the whole idea behind the BITX project.  Fix the first one, you'll learn a lot, and then you will have two!   73  Bill N2CQR


On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 5:55 PM, Willy <W1LY@...> wrote:


Hi Curt, I have had my bitx on the air for about 6 months now and have made hundreds of contacts from my Rhode Island  QTH from South Africa to California with no problems. I have a nearly stock BitX with the exception of a 10 turn pot and Allard's mods running about 6 watts SSB and a little more on CW. I am using a 30 Ah LiFPo  battery most of the time at a little over 13 volts. 

The radio has worked flawlessly,and I have little interest in using my commercial rigs. There are a few things that I will work on to improve but, all in all I, will also say it is the best $59 I have spent. I am well on my way to BitX DXCC and WAS. I am confident that you too can have the same BitX experience. All that is needed is patience, a positive attitude, and most important, a good antenna. I am only using an inverted V at 50 ft but I make sure it is well matched to whatever frequency I am using.

I did trouble shoot a BitX 40 that the owner thought was beyond help and discovered several simple wiring errors that had destroyed  his mic element and that did not follow HFsigs instructions even though the owner had confirmed proper wiring many times. Sometimes one needs a break to get a fresh perspective.

Have great confidence that you will love this wonderful little radio/learning tool. 
73, Willy W1LY



On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 11:19 AM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Some have mentioned that they are substituting different displays for the Raduino board. Perhaps people like Curt who need a new Raduino can buy the ones from those who don't need them...win-win.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Starting Over

Hi Arv, I'll back up a little.  While troubleshooting my original Bitx transmit issue I switched from a 12vdc 1.5 amp wall wort supply to my Samlex 13.8v power supply.  Within 30 seconds I noticed that the top row of the display went to all black boxes.  The only thing I was doing was adjusting RV1 and RV136.  Being that the display is controlled by the arduino I powered the radio down and connected the USB cable to the arduino to see if maybe it lost it's programming.  The arduino would no longer communicate.  I ordered some replacement nanos and I unsoldered the original nano and installed a new nano.  The new nano would take the programming and I can now hear audio on the radio and tell that by tuning the VFO that it was partially working but the display still had black boxes on it.  I tired to see if now it was a contrast problem but it's not.  So I have a felling the board that the nano is soldered to took the same hit that the original nano took and that's why the display still doesn't work as it should.  Being that I had ordered a new kit I didn't feel that it was worth also ordering a new radrino board at this time because I still had a main board that has some issues and had a whole new kit coming in.  So that's where I'm at with the original kit.

Curt



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Re: BitX on Display

lostfrogsrecords
 

Ha!  I expected this to happen!  This message was intended for local hams in WCARES in TN .  (Williamson County Amateur Radio Emergency Service)  But hams in the area are welcome!
Dave, KI4PSR, building my second BitX40!

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Adrian
 

I purchased mine through Aliexpress for around $12. They are slow on postage though paid on 2nd June not posted until 16th.

Adrian

Re: Starting Over

Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
 

Curt looks like you are well on your way to some fun. I do hope my direct emails to you and the group support have gotten you over the hump/bump. I acquired another broken Bitx from my buddy. I need to replace the IRF510 with a spare Vishay and then try to figure why the raduino won't load v1.18, and probably not v.1.19 either. I suspect a failed Nano. I got some great advice from Mike Hagen on how to remove the defective Nano and replace it with a new one (after I load v1.19) to be sure the new one works. I'll probably get a cheapo clone or two from eBay. (to be sure At least one works I did notice there is a Nano AT mega 168 ($20) at Newark Electric Element 14, but I think ours is an AT mega 328 and I assume they are not interchangeable. I have had an aluminum case for 6 months and will build the repaired Bitx into it. It may be tight quarters but will be very compact and will power it externally, not like mine with an internal AGM battery. Also, every time there is a new improved sketch, I need to remove my 10 turn pot to attach the Raduino mini usb cord. I ordered 2-90 deg mini usb cords to try and work around that inconvenience. That's it for now. Start from scratch, and If you get to any questionable area (color of wires, what grounds, which 12vdc to where etc) on your new Bitx, please ask. It would be very "inconvenient" if you to wire it exactly as the first one and just by chance you had made an error and repeated the same mistake. The old adage measure 2 or three times and cut once, sure applies here.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD





Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

Re: BitX-20 - Missing parts? Or substitutions?

Michael Davis <maddmd818@...>
 

I have made a triad of tiny (smaller then the one in the kit) electret elements and wired them in parallel. Any thoughts on what might be the impedance match/mismatch issue? I am hoping to get better sounding audio. Oh yes, I don't want to damage anything either.

Sent from Mike's iPad WA1MAD

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I don't recall seeing it. Send it to my regular email using the QRZ.com address; so sense sucking up the group's time.

Jack, W8TEE




From: John P <j.m.price@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2017 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

On Tue, Jul 18, 2017 at 12:42 pm, Jack Purdum wrote:
The vendor's name is Items in wideenm991 store on eBay! . See # 162593120234.
Thanks Jack! Did you get my email about the VFO boards?
 
--
John - WA2FZW



Virus-free. www.avast.com