Date   
Re: CQ tonight

JuanCarlos
 

I heard you but you never answer my call


El El vie, 14 jul 2017 a la(s) 11:43 p. m., N8DAH <Dherron@...> escribió:

I always wanted one of those. I called for about an hour but with some random AM stations and some other 1KWers I stopped after a while.

 Just wish my CQ times were better, I am dealing with some bad RFI 12 hours a day and kids goto bed soon after the RFI stops for the day.

 

Will be on again tomorrow night around 7:30 pm est

 

--
“If you have a penny and I have a penny and we exchange pennies, you still have one cent and I still have one cent.  But if you have an idea and I have an idea and we exchange ideas, you now have two ideas and I now have two ideas.” 

Mr. Juan Carlos Berberena Gonzalez, BSc.
WJ6C exCO6BG 

Re: 2nd harmonic mod...

Mvs Sarma <mvs_sarma@...>
 

Even if some one (other than some of your own city or nation) has it.
 the inter trans shipment would cost a moon. Instead you may seek for higher size smd cap at 2KV ready on ebay or aliexpress.

 though costly , please see this link
ebay.com item No: 332144913078


On Saturday, 15 July 2017 7:52 AM, "aa9gg@..." <aa9gg@...> wrote:


Hi guys....
Still putting together my Bitx40v3.  Does anyone have a spare 100pF/200v cap for the 2nd harmonic mod?  I have a TON of 100pf/50v and for some reason cant find a cheap supplier for the 200v ones ($7 on ebay!?!?).  I could trade you a small hand full of some nice SUPER BRIGHT white SMT LEDS for one.  These are perfect for any QRP lighting needs or QRO for that matter.  Let me know...I'm good on QRZ

thx es 73 de Paul, AA9GG


Re: 2nd harmonic mod...

John Backo
 

namaste, Sarma raj

Your suggestion may be good, but the first thing told to a ham should be look in old pieces of equipment for something.
Or go to a hamfest and see what 's there. Or the junkbox. (It doesn't take long to get one of those). The real problem is finding something...Hi.

The second thing is to take two 50v caps of 200 pf, and put them in series. That would give 100 pf at 100v. It works. And probably the voltage
rating is not too critical at QRP levels anyway. The important thing is to use npo caps (rather than X7V or something similar).

I am sure I can find something for Paul (like a 100 pf. SM cap), but unfortunately not right now as my shack is in a mess with re-tiling, re-painting and such...
It would be a simple matter to find something, slip it into a padded envelope, and send it on. I am sure one of us here in W land can do that...


john
AD5YE

Re: Still Not Working

 

Looks like RF got into your arduino board.

I suspect your RF termination is not proper even though you stated you are using a dummy load.
I was doing the same but had RF all over, found later that the braid of the BNC to load was frayed.
After I replaced it all problems vanished!

At 15/07/2017, you wrote:
Let me back up again:

My kit came with something like 1.0 or 1.1 already installed on the nano. Right out of the box my Bitx would receive fine but not transmit. While I was waiting to try and resolve the transmit issue I uploaded 1.18 to the nano and used the radio on receive for a few days while I asked some questions. Someone mentioned that the RV1 and R136 would increase the output if turned to the left rather than turned to the right. I had only been moving them from what appeared to be near the center position to the right. So I put a dummy load/power meter on it the other night and instead of using the 12v 1.5a wall wort supply that I had been using I switched to my Samlex 13.8v power supply. I turned to power on to the power supply. Plugged the radio in and turned the radio on. I keyed up and was watching my power meter and speaking into the mic to see if adjusting either pot would give me some kind of output. While I was doing that I just hapoened to look at the display and noticed that it w
as still lot up buy I had black squares across the top row of the display and no longer any text. I powered the radio back down and up again and the display stayed that way. So I thought maybe something happened and the Arduino lost its mind. I unplugged the radio from the power supply and decided to see if I could upload to the Arduino. I could not. I unsoldered the Arduino tonight and noticed that C17 looks like it had disintegrated from the board. So I have some new Arduino coming on Sunday.

Re: Mouse encoder?

philip yates
 

I use one with the ball bearing removed to tune HDSDR controlling my FT1000, with the ball removed it becomes a free running smooth operation.  

Phil - G7BZD

Re: blown LM 386 ?

OZ9AEW <madsen1960@...>
 

it is both Double and Triple checked NO short !
I do not belive cw-sidetone mods can give that problem since I have tried with another speaker !
speaker plug was removed yesterday evening when I tested with earphone PIN 5 on LM386 gives audio but connect to speaker plug gives no audio, and only part between this 2 points is C111

Re: 2nd harmonic mod...

AA9GG
 

thanks John....not sure what I was thinking.  I'll just pair some up for the voltage. 2 caps in parallel, then put those in series with another parallel set will give me 100pF/200v. The parts are small enough not look to ugly ;)

I don't believe it!

Dexter N Muir
 

My BITX40 kit has fought me all the way, and despair is setting in. First assembly was 'al fresco', with long leads just stripped enough to solder where necessary or use clip leads. There was activity of a sort, but horrendous hash! OK, I thought, better clean up the wiring a bit.
Antenna BNC recommended less than 3" from board - done.
Speaker (and mic) - pairs twisted - a no-brainer, already done - check.
Volume and Tuning pots - better shield them. OK, that'll need Molex surgery. OK for the younger eyes and nimbler fingers, my efforts not up to par. Tuning pot soldered to the pins via some ex-CD audio lead (twin-ax). Similar Raduino output to DDS pins. Volume pot similarly twin-ax'd but left a bit of wire on the Molex plug to connect. Whew! Done. Molex less than 100% stable, move 'em a bit they crackle.
Decoupling power supplies improved things a little, largely subduing tuning clicks from the Raduino.
Still horrendous static, but glimpses of an occasional carrier. AM on 40? That'd be a rarity! Commercial intruders? no band-chart, HF's terra incognita to me. What's up here?
Brought in (read:unearthed) my trusty old Leader SG-11 sig.gen, verified by sweep I'm hearing somewhere just above 7MHz, and sensitive enough to clearly detect on low output setting, control turned to minimum and output lead shorted - case-leakage radiation. Good enough for me, why no voices? There's a fair amount of wire about gutter-height, a guesswork OCF - should be hearing mid-ZL at least.
Farmed in a NiCd battery from a long-unused drill, while that was being charged the static reduced enough to discern faint 'donald-duck' voices. Is the BFO on the proper (high) side of the filter? No way to tell, professional assistance required. Long time away from nearest active Club (ZL2KO), and having nearly shaken of the seasonal Cold I'm destined for Rest-home 'respite', so it'll have to wait.

Beware - a few setup 'gotchas'.

Dexter N Muir
 

1. >12V to the BITX main board is likely to fry the LM386. They were designed to run as output with 9V battery power, and 12V capability was plenty overhead margin for that.
2. A good hefty reservoir (say 1000uF) on main board supply is pretty much mandatory. I feed this point with a 27-ohm resistor (gleaned  with the1000uF from a defunct PC power supply). The typically 130-170mA draw  of BITX and Arduino gives a few Volts drop, so even 15V to that is safe. Feed the PA Power from this point too - any hum or hash here won't affect power out too much.
3. A further reservoir (say 100uF) is recommended for the Raduino, fed by 100 ohms from main board supply. This decoupling will contribute significantly to reducing 'tuning clicks'.
4. RV1 fully CCW cuts the IRF off. They typically start drawing from about midway, and at that point it's touchy so care is needed to set ~100mA idle. If you've got a separate supply (say it's set >12V) I'd recommend its use for *this* (makes for a convenient current-measuring/monitoring point too).
5, RV136 fully CCW is max. drive. If you can't get full output at that setting, then you need a mic pre-amp. A simple 1-transistor stage should be sufficient, but you can go as fancy as you like ... :) My no-name PC headset's mic needs this. Yours might need a level/volume control - most Hams will have a scrap preset pot in the junk-box.

Re: Beware - a few setup 'gotchas'.

Dexter N Muir
 

Sorry, Raduino feed by 10 ohms, not 100 - d'oh!

Re: Beware - a few setup 'gotchas'.

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

My bitx 40 has ran on 13,8v from day 1 and about 13v from my lithium battery I 
Get about 8w rf out on my DC input to the set I have 9400yf across the supply 
The raduino is fed from 470yf 10 ohm 470yf no tuning clicks so I am happy with mine for now 

On 15 Jul 2017 10:04, "Dexter N Muir" <dexy@...> wrote:
Sorry, Raduino feed by 10 ohms, not 100 - d'oh!

Re: Still Not Working

David Wilcox
 

OK Jack.  I have avoided these little computers because at 72 I don't need another hobby.   BUT since my Bitx arrived and after reading all the problems with it I just ordered your book.  Darn, I am retired but have less time now than I had as an active family doctor....... Any solutions for that?   

Dave K8WPE

On Jul 14, 2017, at 10:36 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:

This is an unabashed plug: The Arduino Projects for Amateur Radio book was written for non-programming hams who want to ease into learning about the Arduino family of microcontrollers. It starts out with the installation of the Arduino IDE software and the first project is an IDE display. It ends with a solar panel that tracks the sun. You can read the Table of Contents for the book by going to Amazon, search for the book, and then click on the Look Inside banner that's on the cover of the book. Once you get hooked on these little devices--and you will--then you need to read Beginning C for Arduino. After that, the XYL will wonder where you went. These things are fun to play with and cheap enough not to worry.

Jack, W8TEE



From: Arv Evans <arvid.evans@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Still Not Working

Curt

As you know the Nano board has built-in USB-to-TTL conversion.  This TTL data
is handled by the built in UART and managed by the boot-loader.  That puts your
compiled program data into memory for execution by the Arduino.  All this usually works
fine.  I have only damaged one of my Nano boards in over two years of experimenting.
That one has burned open its protection diode between +volts and the 5V regulator.
I have never had any problem with the original boot loader code.  I have had lots of
problems trying to reinstall the OptiBoot boot loader, mostly because there are so
many of them....all different.

When you begin a software reload or upgrade of you Arduino Nano the on-board LED
will light while the download is progressing.  The RESET LED will flicker at the start
of this download process.  If that happens it probably means that the boot loader is
seeing your attempt to install software.  If that does not happen you will see some
error messages on the PC program that you are using to install the software.  These
messages may, or may not, be helpful.  If you compiled the software with the wrong
Arduino board setting the resulting HEX-code may not be compatible and the installer
may refuse to accept the code.  A common error with the Arduino IDE as a software
installer is to forget to set the USB/tty port number.  That can block software from
installing.

If your Nano is socket mounted it can easily be removed and replaced.  If it is wired
into the BITX-40 you may have to remove the leads and re-wire it.  My own BITX-40
is old enough that it does not include the raduino or Si5351a synthesizer.  This required
me to make my own controller using a Chinese made Arduino Nano and an Si5351a
board from Hans G0UPL at QRP-Kits.com.  Given the low price of a replacement
Arduino Nano it probably does not make any sense to try just replacing the AVR
Mega-328 processor on your Nano board.  Purchased in singles a new Mega-328
may cost more than a replacement Nano with its new CPU chip.

Some may gripe about using a Chinese made Arduino Nano, but those AVR Mega-328
CPU chips are made under license to Atmel and will meet all the original specifications.
I use them all the time and have never found a bad one.

I don't know what your interest and time available might be, but I highly recommend
hams and experimenters to obtain a few spare Nano boards, and a couple of LCD
displays just for play and entertainment.  It is educational, and will qualify you as
a local "expert" in programming circles.    Friends and family will be amazed and the
local old-timer hams will want you to build all sort of digital things for them.   8-)

You can experiment with an Arduino without the LCD by using an attached PC as
a serial terminal.  The Serial_R/W commands let you send text to the PC and read
keyboard entries from it over the USB/ttl cable.  With Chinese made Arduino Nano
devices costing less than $2.00 each this is a very economical way to learn all about
the Arduino and how to make your own radio controllers and automated test
equipment.  Start with making a simple digital voltmeter using the built-in ADC (Analog-
to-Digital Converter) and your PC as the readout device.  This simple layout gives
you 0.0047 volt resolution for zero-to 5 volts input.  With digital readout via an LCD or
your PC this is an amazing piece of test equipment for the workbench. 

Arv
_._


On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 6:42 PM, Larry Smith <815cpu@...> wrote:
You may wish to take this opportunity and remove the nano and as I did solder in a inline header so you can remove future  Nano's. 
A low profile socket is helpful so you can later connect the display module sandwich.
Larry

On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 7:24 PM, Curt M. <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
 Hi Arv, mine's been working fine for well over a week. As strange as this sounds while I was trying to adjust the drive I looked down at the meter and it now had those boxes all the way across. I've disconnected the radrino from the display and although my laptop recognizes that the radio o is plugged in, the radrino will not take an upload from the laptop. This is the same laptop that I used to upload 1.18 into it about 4 days ago. Being that I can't upload to the radrino with the display not connected to it that makes me think that maybe the radrio got whacked somehow. How, I have no idea.  I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary other than turning those two pots and keying up the mic.  I was using a fully insulated screw driver




Re: Still Not Working

terry hughes
 

hi
just to put the record straight

i wired up my bitx40 as per instructions in "wire up". connected it to a 12v battery and the supplied little mike. adjusted for 100 mA and turned the other pot to full.  NO PROBLEMS got about 5 watts out.

ps i put the mike into a plastic tube from a marker pen and the ptt is a switch on the front panel.

i am now building a cw tone generator to feed into the mike connector for cw. kit was from sunil.

terry gm4dso

pps the birdie on 7.199 is hardly a problem in europe cos the band edge is 7.2

Re: Still Not Working

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

Yep sounds good I never moved rv1 I left it as the builder set it I did change rv136 
And I get 6 watt when I am portable or 8 watt from home I got 2 more kits on order so I can have 60m & 80m for portable ops chris g0wfh

On 15 Jul 2017 11:01, "terryhugheskirkcudbright via Groups.Io" <terryhugheskirkcudbright=yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:
hi
just to put the record straight

i wired up my bitx40 as per instructions in "wire up". connected it to a 12v battery and the supplied little mike. adjusted for 100 mA and turned the other pot to full.  NO PROBLEMS got about 5 watts out.

ps i put the mike into a plastic tube from a marker pen and the ptt is a switch on the front panel.

i am now building a cw tone generator to feed into the mike connector for cw. kit was from sunil.

terry gm4dso

pps the birdie on 7.199 is hardly a problem in europe cos the band edge is 7.2


Re: I don't believe it!

Bill Meara
 

Dex:  Don't despair.  The carriers you hear are probably SW broadcast stations.  We share the band with them above 7200 kHz.  Farhan sends the kits out with the BFO where it should be, so unless you have retuned that, I'd leave it alone for now.  40 can be kind of dead and noisy during the day -- perhaps give  it a try at night.  Does all that noise disappear when you disconnect the antenna?   Hang in there.  73  Bill   


On Saturday, July 15, 2017 4:51 AM, Dexter N Muir <dexy@...> wrote:


My BITX40 kit has fought me all the way, and despair is setting in. First assembly was 'al fresco', with long leads just stripped enough to solder where necessary or use clip leads. There was activity of a sort, but horrendous hash! OK, I thought, better clean up the wiring a bit.
Antenna BNC recommended less than 3" from board - done.
Speaker (and mic) - pairs twisted - a no-brainer, already done - check.
Volume and Tuning pots - better shield them. OK, that'll need Molex surgery. OK for the younger eyes and nimbler fingers, my efforts not up to par. Tuning pot soldered to the pins via some ex-CD audio lead (twin-ax). Similar Raduino output to DDS pins. Volume pot similarly twin-ax'd but left a bit of wire on the Molex plug to connect. Whew! Done. Molex less than 100% stable, move 'em a bit they crackle.
Decoupling power supplies improved things a little, largely subduing tuning clicks from the Raduino.
Still horrendous static, but glimpses of an occasional carrier. AM on 40? That'd be a rarity! Commercial intruders? no band-chart, HF's terra incognita to me. What's up here?
Brought in (read:unearthed) my trusty old Leader SG-11 sig.gen, verified by sweep I'm hearing somewhere just above 7MHz, and sensitive enough to clearly detect on low output setting, control turned to minimum and output lead shorted - case-leakage radiation. Good enough for me, why no voices? There's a fair amount of wire about gutter-height, a guesswork OCF - should be hearing mid-ZL at least.
Farmed in a NiCd battery from a long-unused drill, while that was being charged the static reduced enough to discern faint 'donald-duck' voices. Is the BFO on the proper (high) side of the filter? No way to tell, professional assistance required. Long time away from nearest active Club (ZL2KO), and having nearly shaken of the seasonal Cold I'm destined for Rest-home 'respite', so it'll have to wait.


Re: I don't believe it!

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

The 40m band in the UK has been poor of late I don't know about zl land it could be the same in the last week some days the band has been empty my be why you are not hearing ham stations 

On 15 Jul 2017 13:28, "Bill Meara via Groups.Io" <n2cqr=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dex:  Don't despair.  The carriers you hear are probably SW broadcast stations.  We share the band with them above 7200 kHz.  Farhan sends the kits out with the BFO where it should be, so unless you have retuned that, I'd leave it alone for now.  40 can be kind of dead and noisy during the day -- perhaps give  it a try at night.  Does all that noise disappear when you disconnect the antenna?   Hang in there.  73  Bill   


On Saturday, July 15, 2017 4:51 AM, Dexter N Muir <dexy@...> wrote:


My BITX40 kit has fought me all the way, and despair is setting in. First assembly was 'al fresco', with long leads just stripped enough to solder where necessary or use clip leads. There was activity of a sort, but horrendous hash! OK, I thought, better clean up the wiring a bit.
Antenna BNC recommended less than 3" from board - done.
Speaker (and mic) - pairs twisted - a no-brainer, already done - check.
Volume and Tuning pots - better shield them. OK, that'll need Molex surgery. OK for the younger eyes and nimbler fingers, my efforts not up to par. Tuning pot soldered to the pins via some ex-CD audio lead (twin-ax). Similar Raduino output to DDS pins. Volume pot similarly twin-ax'd but left a bit of wire on the Molex plug to connect. Whew! Done. Molex less than 100% stable, move 'em a bit they crackle.
Decoupling power supplies improved things a little, largely subduing tuning clicks from the Raduino.
Still horrendous static, but glimpses of an occasional carrier. AM on 40? That'd be a rarity! Commercial intruders? no band-chart, HF's terra incognita to me. What's up here?
Brought in (read:unearthed) my trusty old Leader SG-11 sig.gen, verified by sweep I'm hearing somewhere just above 7MHz, and sensitive enough to clearly detect on low output setting, control turned to minimum and output lead shorted - case-leakage radiation. Good enough for me, why no voices? There's a fair amount of wire about gutter-height, a guesswork OCF - should be hearing mid-ZL at least.
Farmed in a NiCd battery from a long-unused drill, while that was being charged the static reduced enough to discern faint 'donald-duck' voices. Is the BFO on the proper (high) side of the filter? No way to tell, professional assistance required. Long time away from nearest active Club (ZL2KO), and having nearly shaken of the seasonal Cold I'm destined for Rest-home 'respite', so it'll have to wait.


Re: W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

I had to do that with one of my boards, too.

Jack, W8TEE



From: K5ESS <k5ess.nothdurft@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?

I noticed that the colors looked a little strange.  It appears that with this display the colors are the complement of what was intended.  I replaced all the values of the colors defined in lines 87-94 with their complements and now the display looks like I think it was intended.
Mike
K5ESS
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 10:20 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?
 
Great!
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: K5ESS <k5ess.nothdurft@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?
 
Jack,
Never mind.  I added
case 0x9486:
and now it looks good.
Mike
K5ESS
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of K5ESS
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 10:00 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?
 
Jack,
My display looks like the bottom picture below but my display is the Mcufriend 3.5“ TFT LCD for arduino uno.  It identifies as g-ID = 9486.  However looking at the code around line 1335 there is no case for ID 0x9486.  Can you tell me what parameters go with this case?
Thanks,
Mike
K5ESS
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 1:30 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?
 
Joe:
 
What happens if you put this code in my program:
 
  g_identifier = tft.readID(); //
  Serial.print("ID = 0x");
  Serial.println(g_identifier, HEX);
  if (g_identifier == 0x00D3 || g_identifier == 0xD3D3) g_identifier = 0x9481; // write-only shield
  if (g_identifier == 0xFFFF) g_identifier = 0x9341; // serial
  //    g_identifier = 0x9329;                             // force ID
  tft.begin(g_identifier);
 
starting around line 1335? The key is setting the identifier.
 
Jack, W8TEE

From: Joe <joeman2116@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT /VFO BOARD - WHICH DISPLAY?
 
As a further test I  tried some other code from "PD8W
 
 "
see below
Display working with various codes but it seems to fit on this one (PD8W'S CODE)
 
 
 
Joe
VE1BWV
 
On Tue, Jun 13, 2017 at 2:57 PM, Joe <joeman2116@...> wrote:
Jack, John, Vince......THANKS!!!!!      It works!
 
 
1.  modify mcufriend kbv.cpp 
In the mcufriend_kbv library, see the file MCUFRIEND_kbv.cpp.
There is a line near the top that is commented out:

"//define support_1289  // costs about 408 bytes"      ----- ( I uncommented it)
 
 
2. and 
 
line 1332 0n my code  I added      g_identifier = 0x1289;
 
just before this code.  switch (g_identifier) {
 
Recompile and now can see display - freq, s meter, etc.
 
As a further test
 
I un commented and commented each line below to see if the display would change 
 
Display appeared but not correct  placement 
 
 
line 1344    g_identifier = tft.readID();    // Get TFT ID  3.95" = 0x9486, 3.6" = 0x9488  2.8 = 0x1289     - when using this the pictures is as appears below
 
 
line1346     // g_identifier = 0x1289;       I also tried this - same results as picture below
 
 
 
It looks like text size on some lines are  to large or incorrect display line?
 
 see photo
 
running on an regular atmega 2560 for testing
 
 
 
On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 10:56 PM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...> wrote:

ok, before the line tft.begin(g_identifier) put
g_identifier = 0x8989;

and see if it runs.  You may need to check on the arduino forum for other possible values.  I didn't see a chip number in the pic you posted.

Vince.

On 06/12/2017 09:46 PM, Joe wrote:
I ran it  before.
It suggests trying  the defined option

One resulted in  id =0 and
when I tried the other option the id said  id =8989
tft =240 x320


On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 10:34 PM, Vince Vielhaber <vev@...
<mailto:vev@...>> wrote:

    Go to the examples for the library and run the LCD_ID example.  Have
    a serial monitor window open and see what they ID it as, if they do.

    Vince.

    On 06/12/2017 09:29 PM, Joe wrote:

        I have the  MCUFRIEND_kbv library loaded and it compiles with
        some ino
        examples but only white screen.

        Joe

        On Mon, Jun 12, 2017 at 10:27 PM, Vince Vielhaber
        <vev@... <mailto:vev@...>
        <mailto:vev@... <mailto:vev@...>>> wrote:

            Go to www.arduino.cc <http://www.arduino.cc>
        <http://www.arduino.cc> and do a search for
            MCUFRIEND_kbv.  That driver should work.

            Vince.



            On 06/12/2017 09:16 PM, Joe wrote:

                Jack,

                I have been experimenting while waiting for my remaining few
                parts to
                arrive.

                I purchase a 2.8 inch tft display ( it says
        mcufriends.com <http://mcufriends.com>
                <http://mcufriends.com> on it)

                It has appears to have the correct pins / jacks etc.

                The problem is I thought I would try to find an example
        to test
                if the
                TFT works.

                Well, I tried several but only get a white screen.  I
        used a uno and
                attached the tft to - as pins match ...tried other
        sketches -
                still only
                a white screen
                I tried other arduino, atmega 2560 and adjusted the pins
                accordingly ,
                same results, they compile and upload but nothing but a
        white
                screen.

                1. Do you have an exact source where you purchased your
        display?
                2. Any guidance to further test my current display?
                3. The photo below is my current display..


                Any help would be appreciated

                Joe
                VE1BWV



            --
              Michigan VHF Corp.   http://www.nobucks.net/
         http://www.CDupe.com/
                                      http://www.metalworkingfun.com






    --
      Michigan VHF Corp.   http://www.nobucks.net/   http://www.CDupe.com/
                              http://www.metalworkingfun.com



--
  Michigan VHF Corp.   http://www.nobucks.net/   http://www.CDupe.com/
                          http://www.metalworkingfun.com
 
 
 
 
 



Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: I don't believe it!

Richard Andrew Knack
 

All I have heard lately on 40m has been digital and some CW.

Rich
KC8MWG



On Saturday, July 15, 2017, 8:42:49 AM EDT, chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...> wrote:


The 40m band in the UK has been poor of late I don't know about zl land it could be the same in the last week some days the band has been empty my be why you are not hearing ham stations 

On 15 Jul 2017 13:28, "Bill Meara via Groups.Io" <n2cqr=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Dex:  Don't despair.  The carriers you hear are probably SW broadcast stations.  We share the band with them above 7200 kHz.  Farhan sends the kits out with the BFO where it should be, so unless you have retuned that, I'd leave it alone for now.  40 can be kind of dead and noisy during the day -- perhaps give  it a try at night.  Does all that noise disappear when you disconnect the antenna?   Hang in there.  73  Bill   


On Saturday, July 15, 2017 4:51 AM, Dexter N Muir <dexy@...> wrote:


My BITX40 kit has fought me all the way, and despair is setting in. First assembly was 'al fresco', with long leads just stripped enough to solder where necessary or use clip leads. There was activity of a sort, but horrendous hash! OK, I thought, better clean up the wiring a bit.
Antenna BNC recommended less than 3" from board - done.
Speaker (and mic) - pairs twisted - a no-brainer, already done - check.
Volume and Tuning pots - better shield them. OK, that'll need Molex surgery. OK for the younger eyes and nimbler fingers, my efforts not up to par. Tuning pot soldered to the pins via some ex-CD audio lead (twin-ax). Similar Raduino output to DDS pins. Volume pot similarly twin-ax'd but left a bit of wire on the Molex plug to connect. Whew! Done. Molex less than 100% stable, move 'em a bit they crackle.
Decoupling power supplies improved things a little, largely subduing tuning clicks from the Raduino.
Still horrendous static, but glimpses of an occasional carrier. AM on 40? That'd be a rarity! Commercial intruders? no band-chart, HF's terra incognita to me. What's up here?
Brought in (read:unearthed) my trusty old Leader SG-11 sig.gen, verified by sweep I'm hearing somewhere just above 7MHz, and sensitive enough to clearly detect on low output setting, control turned to minimum and output lead shorted - case-leakage radiation. Good enough for me, why no voices? There's a fair amount of wire about gutter-height, a guesswork OCF - should be hearing mid-ZL at least.
Farmed in a NiCd battery from a long-unused drill, while that was being charged the static reduced enough to discern faint 'donald-duck' voices. Is the BFO on the proper (high) side of the filter? No way to tell, professional assistance required. Long time away from nearest active Club (ZL2KO), and having nearly shaken of the seasonal Cold I'm destined for Rest-home 'respite', so it'll have to wait.


On the subject of fake IRF510

Ken Hansen
 

Saw this Hackaday post related to the BITX, thought others might find it interesting.

Re: Beware - a few setup 'gotchas'.

John P
 

On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 02:16 am, chris gress wrote:
My bitx 40 has ran on 13,8v from day 1 and about 13v from my lithium battery
I've run mine from a 13.8V supply and a 13V give or take battery without any problems also.
 
--
John - WA2FZW