Re: Bitx case design issues #parts #v6 #ubitxv6


Okay I reviewed all the screws they are very close to size and shape and without magnification it’s tough to separate them with my eyes going.  Could you possibly use screws with color for different sizes.  This would be a problem with maybe the case aesthetic but maybe you could go with colors that they might not conflict to much like, silver for one size, black for another, gold for a third.  This would help people identify screws quickly.  The problem is the receiving end of the screw is tough to know if it’s the screw, bad threading, etc.


I found the right screws on the display it was clear once I heard about them. 


I also had another successful suggestion from someone about looking for the screwed in speaker, microphone, keyer has the round nut that was pre-installed this was causing the board to sit back more.  The board was pretty solidly in there so I wasn’t screwing it in either.


So I removed the nuts; screwed it in and things are sitting better so the dials are working properly now with the replacement of the display screws; correcting the phone plug nut, and mounting the board.


The instructions I think would be worth spending a little more time on it will reduce the mistakes a bit more.




From: <> On Behalf Of Ashhar Farhan
Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2020 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Bitx case design issues #parts #v6 #ubitxv6


1. We have a set if short screws for the v6 display mounting. If you didn't get them write to sales@....

2. The display mount has been a bit of a challenge for us. As it is a touch display, it couldn't be recessed too much inside. The standard standoffs were too long to be inserted between the display and the front panel. Getting custom standoffs proved very expensive, more than the box itself. The best solution would be a custom bezel mold that will fit the display properly.

I would invite people to contribute to a better box or bezel design.

- f



On Wed 10 Jun, 2020, 2:16 AM Bob Lunsford via, <> wrote:

I figured that is what you actually meant but that also means the display is displaced by the thickness of the nut which also allows space between the rear of the front panel and the surface of the display. In fact, if I go this way with my V6 build, I would use washers since they are thinner and I can stack a certain number between the rear of the front panel and the display mounting to "adjust" the display offset and make it secure without a more than necessary gap between the display and the front panel. It may be tricky to do it this way but it is a guarantee that the tightening is being applied to the display and not merely tightening the screw into the offset nut. On the other hand, any old nut would work for the purpose you suggest since they are for spacing and do not need to thread onto the screw.


Metric screw cutters on the Champ type crimpers are not all that rare. Almost 1/4 of those I find in flea markets are metric and no doubt they are being passed on because they are metric thus less needed and/or used.


Most sellers and buyers really don't care whether they are English or Metric since the majority don't buy them for the screw cutting feature.


On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 4:20:47 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> wrote:




You didn't read what I wrote or else completely misunderstood it. The
nut is only in place while are working to shorten the screw. You
wouldn't put the whole danged radio kit in a bench vise! I have been
'adjusting' screws this way for decades. I have a tool like the one you
describe but it won't do metric screws. I wouldn't buy one just to trim
four screws. You spend your money the way you want.

For assembly of the radio that nut is not used with any of the four
screws as they screw into the standoff behind the panel. They will no
longer bottom out in the short standoff and will then pull the front
panel and the standoffs tightly together. The screw head will seat *in*
the front panel and the knob will clear.


Bill  KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 6/9/20 1:39 PM, Bob Lunsford via wrote:
> Doesn't putting a nut under the screw's head make it stick out from the
> cabinite? Wouldn't this cause even more interference with the back of
> the volume control knob? This might be a ramification of doing it this way.
> When you use the Champ crimper's screw cutting feature, you screw the
> screw into the tool from the threaded side and the unwanted part is cut
> off and then the screw is backed out the threaded side. This cleans up
> the screw's thread. And I've never had a problem screwing a screw with
> part of it cut off. The threaded part it's screwed into takes care of
> it; it had a shaped area that accepts the shortened screw with no problem.
> Those Champ crimpers were available at Sears and other "fine" stores but
> like I said, I get them at flea markets and they cost me somewhere
> between one and two dollars. I got one Saturday afternoon for one dollar
> from a guy who was cleaning out his garage. Now I have about four of them.
> On Tuesday, June 9, 2020, 8:03:04 AM EDT, Bill Cromwell
> <
wrcromwell@...> wrote:
> Hi,
> There are probably as many ways to shorten those screws as there are
> screws to be shortened and hams to shorten them. I installed a hex nut
> on each screwand ran it up against the head of the screw. I clamped the
> nut in a bench vise and filed the screw down to size. That took about
> one minute at most. Finer file then beveled the ragged edge. Removing
> the nut cleaned up the ends of the threads on the way out. That beveled
> edge around the circumference of the screw makes it much easier to start
> the screw into the threaded hole at assembly time. I hope this help
> somebody who does not have the means to buy a special purpose tool for
> cutting and rethreading M3 screws. Files can be re-used for many other
> jobs. That $pecial tool can only be used to shorten M3 screws.
> 73,
> Bill  KU8H
> bark less - wag more
> On 6/8/20 9:47 PM, Bob Lunsford via wrote:
>  > Some Champ-type crimpers also have screw cutting holes. Some are also
>  > metric screw cutters. I shop flea markets for crimpers.
>  >
>  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 9:06:20 PM EDT, Bill Cromwell
>  > <
wrcromwell@... <mailto:wrcromwell@...>> wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  > Hi,
>  >
>  > The real problem is the screws reach the bottom of the hole in the
>  > standoff they screw into before the head ever gets to the front panel..
>  > No matter how much of the head you remove the screw will still be too
>  > long. When you saw a limb off from a tree be sure to sit on the trunk
>  > side of the cut instead of the outer side of your cut.
>  >
>  > 73,
>  >
>  > Bill  KU8H
>  >
>  > bark less - wag more
>  >
>  > On 6/8/20 8:14 PM, Bob Lunsford via wrote:
>  >  > If the screen mounting screw headss are standing out from the surface
>  >  > too much, I'll run a countersink by hand and make it deeper. This
> should
>  >  > cure that problem.
>  >  >
>  >  > On Monday, June 8, 2020, 2:50:15 PM EDT, rpremo <
> <mailto:
>  > <mailto:
rpremo@... <mailto:rpremo@...>>> wrote:
>  >  >
>  >  >
>  >  > Here's three issues I am having with full kit case , screws....1. Part
>  >  > inventory needed screws dont screw all the way. 2. Screen doesnt mount
>  >  > securely its lloose which is a problem for touch display 3. Design of
>  >  > screen in relation to volume knob sets up for the screw to secure
> screen
>  >  > interfering with turning knob couple with short volume shaft makes a
>  >  > knob not likely possible to secure
>  >  >
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >

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