Re: Keyer

Adam Goler

Hi Bill,

Apologies for the delayed response. It has been a busy week. With regard to your photos, I think your breadboard set up is OK. The white wire and red wires go to the sides of the paddle (I’m guessing) and the black wire to ground.

Regardless of firmware, when you key the different sides of the paddle you should measure a different voltage drop across the 2.2k or 10k resistor. Matthias’ suggestion about the 10k pot would be interesting to try.

Swap the jack see if it helps! Other than that maybe there’s a goof on the board? What does the bottom of that PCB look like? Maybe something weird is going on w/ the ground trace on the PCB.

I saw another post recently about some keyer issues with the latest firmware. Might be worth looking into. 

On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 03:02 Matthias Zwoch <zwoch@...> wrote:
Am 30.08.2018 um 02:37 schrieb escalantea@...:
> I tried the suggestion someone mentioned (changing 10K for 8.2K) with same result (no change).
> Then I found this diagram, as you can see, the Key  and Paddle have separate plugs and wiring, I will try this next...
> I will let you know if it works.
> 73's
> A
You may connect a 10k lin potentiometer directly to the 4k7 resistor and
the other end to GND. If you move slowly from 0k to 10k you should hear
dits, dit-dahs and then dah.
(original VU2ESE software). You can measure (between GND and blue wire)
at which voltage betweeen 4k7 and 10k  the dits and dahs will occur and
you may calculate the needed resistors. I did so and found 8k2 working
for me.
A continuous tone for the straight key will not occur in VU2ESE 4.3
software. There is a menu point "Straight key" which must be activated
before. (despite that a straight key could be recognized without any
menu change at the analog port A6). If the 10k pot wont bring out dahs
try a higher value.

73 Matthias, DD7NT

Adam Goler, PhD
Cell: (425) 985-8700

"Fear is the mind killer."

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