Follow the three steps of mechanical diagnostics.
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If it's stuck, hit it with a hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacement anyway.
If you're going to throw it away, taking it apart won't do any more damage.
On 5/18/2018 4:38 PM, Tim Gorman wrote:
Before you throw the encoder away is it sealed or does it have an
opening somewhere? You could try flushing it with WD40 to see if one of
the mechanical switches is hanging and just needs a little cleaning.
Blow it out good with air and let it dry for a while and then test it
BTW, I did take one apart several years ago. It wasn't hard. I never
bothered to put it back together again tho!
On Fri, 18 May 2018 15:07:00 -0400
"Mike aka KC2WVB" <rb5363@...> wrote:
Thanks for addressing this issue, Daniel
I would show a picture of the encoder but I removed it. It's only a
few wires with yellow being a raduino ground that goes to the middle
pin out on the three pin out side. Yellow also goes to the top pin
out when viewing the encoder from its non-shaft side and the two pin
outs are on the left side of the encoder. Red then attaches below
yellow on the two pin out side and the remaining black and brown
wires attach to the top and bottom pin outs on the three pin out
side. Here it really does not matter because if you switch black and
brown you get reverse direction but I placed black on top and brown
on the bottom when looking at the encoder from behind and with the
three pin outs on the right side.
However, remember even if the push feature was perfect the rotary
feature of the encoder was only operating half correctly. I.e. the
pin out for the brown wire stayed at a constant high state while
rotating the shaft in any direction. I think it was 4.54 volts dc.
The push feature under a voltage test was erratic, so much so that I
don't really know how to easily verbalize its behavior. Regardless, I
should have something other than strictly two items that read "Band
Select" without an ability to select a band and "Press to Confirm"
which is not meaningful if a band is not able to be selected when the
encoder shaft is pushed inward. As a matter of fact there is a host
of menu items that are selectable by the encoder but it is not
presumably letting me in.
I am 99% certain the encoder that came with the kit was meant to be
in the manufacturers trash pile and I will know for certain the
encoder is the only issue my kit has when the new encoders arrive,
most likely, Monday.
I am building the sister radio, BitX 40, now. It does not use a rotary
encoder to tune the radio, rather it uses a 10K potentiometer. I
suppose this is because it being a single band radio needs not a menu
function that allows the operator to make changes. I am thinking,
until the new encoder arrives I can probably get some tuning along
the band its stuck on, ie 40 meters, by using a 10K potentiometer in
lieu of the encoder. What do you think of the Idea??
Thanks for your interest.
On May 18, 2018 2:03 PM, "Daniel Conklin" <@W2DLC>
Mike, It appears to be doing what it's supposed to do when you press
it. Post a photo of the back showing how you have it wired.