Re: Final 3D printed case design

Diver Martin <diver.martin@...>

The biggest problem with doing this on the 3d printer (with the design I have) is that it creates a raised, unsupported edge.  On my work printer that does ABS + HIPS, this isn't too big a deal, but on my $200 cheapo monoprice mini where I don't use a raft nor do I do supports very often, the overhang lip usually doesn't come out well.

If you print face-sideways the front panel isn't as flat/clean as face-downwards, you can probably do this easier, but then there are large unsupported overhangs to deal with. 

On the same topic, if I were going to laser cut + 3d print, I'd do something like the attached picture, with 3d printed corners, and laser cut acrylic to enclose (or, as the previous post showed, you could 3d-print each individual panel).

On Sun, Dec 24, 2017 at 10:45 AM, Clark Martin <kk6isp@...> wrote:
As far as the mini-phone jacks go, a common technique when drilling holes is to drill a blind hole first, wide enough for the nut then drill the through hole.  This lets one attach parts on panels that are otherwise too thick.  I haven’t (yet) done any 3D printing but I expect you could do the same thing and that would allow you to mount the mini-phone jacks and have a .125” panel.
Clark Martin

On Dec 24, 2017, at 10:34 AM, Diver Martin <diver.martin@...> wrote:

Version 0.6 posted to the files section.  A 0.1" shift in the window, as when I was doing all the calipering, the display was actually plugged in one pin the wrong direction.  Also updated the height of the heatsink windows slightly so that they fit a little more smoothly.  The enclosure width is now 0.08" instead of .125, so that the audio jacks/etc can go all the way through and have the nut fit on the front.

Martin Held - AE7EU
If there aren't any questions, then what is there to learn?

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