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I think that the highly sensitive system of the 810-812 Cord considered these filters as snake oil. They soon clogged, and restricted the flow even when new. This is a non-pressurized cooling system, with coolant carrying aluminum heads, on a cast iron block. Prestone 50/50 seems to be the best coolant to use. My buddy Lloyd, who was the head mechanic for the extensive Keller Collection in Petaluma (extensive Mercedes 540Ks, Bugatti, Hispano, Ferrari, etc....) has been conducting an on going experiment with all the different coolant products for many years. These experiments are now housed deep in the bowels of the Academy of Arts main collector car facility in San Francisco, where Lloyd is the head mechanic for that 300 car fleet of Duesenburgs, Packards, Pierce Arrows, and even a Tucker. He has many coolant filled cars with the same water pump part submerged. This is just a static experiment, with no heat, or combustion fluctuations. Just the same part, submerged in different examples of all the known concoctions for coolant.
The results are amazing. Some have completely evaporated, others have grown fur, and some look like parts from the submerged Titanic. The Prestone 50/50 constantly out performs all the others in this test. Therefore, the entire fleet of the SF AofA, and of the Keller Collection, run this coolant/antifreeze. I run it in all of my buggies as well. I firstly cleanse the system with an over-the-counter radiator flush, then rinse it out again with distilled water, then employ the Prestone 50/50 straight; undiluted. I do try and affix a sacrificial zinc pellet in the upper radiator tank though. These I try to suspend from the radiator cap with the small stainless steel chain provided. I ordered many of these little pellets when I had access to good ol'fashioned auto parts store. I haven't attempted to source them lately though.
After that, it's occasional flushing & repeating the process, as one can't find Cord stuff at Safeway.
Merry Motoring, RF.
More on the Prestone coolant results please. Thanks in advance Fred,
On Thursday, December 31, 2020, 07:40:50 AM PST, Red Fred <redfred47@...
There has been various repro heads available over the year, and there still are. Sounds like you are connected with the right guy. Supposedly the heads out of Texas are to be avoided. I've had a new, repro head crack on me before!
On Wed, Dec 30, 2020 at 9:43 PM Ken Nelson <citbuff@...
Fred, I just read where a fellow redesigned the heads some yrs ago, using modern less corroding alloys, and the heads have 1/2 inch more interior height for more coolant than originals. Story I just read off the ACD club forums was that the heads were pretty bad from the start - alloy prone to corrosion especially in contact with iron block of course. And the increased thickness is even concourse acceptable with zero points off as they work so much better. Before I came here in Nov I talke with George Arkelian who's an expert not far from me in Detroit - he showed me newly manufactured heads, a transmission he'd rebuilt and his place is full of blocks, all sorts of parts and he's a wealth of information - I think he's collaborating with Jim Obrien on the new transmission rebuilt manual that's in progress. The forum seems to indicate that most of the heads were replaced over the yrs, and the new ones will have a small C cast into them to indicate the new design. Are you aware of these re-engineered heads?
The newer alum. alloys after the war must've been much better, as Citroen started using alum hemiheads in '55 on the DS19, and over 58 yrs with those early engines and later ones with more hp, I've only had a corrosion problem with one head - which corroded thru the top into the valve gallery. Turns out there is one high up hollow where cavitation seems to occur, but it was easily repaired by a shop widening the hole to get to thick metal around it, then making a plug & heliarcing it in - been on the road since for 30 yrs with no further problems.
In Cord lore, there were many snake oil remedies for this. Especially since the Cord employed aluminum heads early on. Most were found to restrict coolant flow at an unacceptable rate. I fashioned copper mesh screens in an effort to filter contaminants entering the radiators top tank. It was soon clogged. This was a newly record radiator, new water pump, and a freshly rebuilt engine done by Gail Shaw. Everything was NEW & Fresh. I now use a sacrificial zink pellet hung into the tank from stainless chain, affixed to the radiator cap. It's amazing how fast these pellets are eaten up!
BTW, We've found that Prestone 50/50 coolant is the best. More on this later if anyone is interested. The Cord probably offers some of the worse scenarios for a cooling system.
On Wed, Dec 30, 2020 at 8:53 PM Ken Nelson <citbuff@...
Hey thanks Bruce - that's exactly what a Cord owner did - rolled up some fine stainless screen into cones, stuffed one in each hose & removed a lot of grit, rust, whatever. Will do when I get back if I can revive the engine, which at least turns over.
Guano filters are sold on Amazon. Being cheap, I noticed it was like a tea strainer in a tube, so I cut a tea strainer (funnel like, and it's stainless) and jammed it inside the hose as it met the head. Worked fine, saved some money.
On Tuesday, December 29, 2020, 11:59:17 PM PST, Ken Nelson <citbuff@...
What type filters Oddrods? Name? part no? sources?
I installed coolant filters in my top radiator hises in my Jaguar XJS V12. They are strongly recommended in engines that might have a lot of crap in the system. Cleaned them out yearly and they do work well.
On Tuesday, December 29, 2020 Ken Nelson <ArcaneAutos@groups.io> wrote:
Guano guard - that's a new one for me Bruce! Was it a toilet roll like the Frantz? What was the filter element, as I can see putting one of those on a V8 to trap crud heading for the pump. I've heard of putting screens inside the return hoses for old cars like Cords, to keep crap out of WP.
Scott was a strong advocate for Trihawks, and wanted to 'restart' the line, but I guess not. He also was a distributor for Guano filters. The Guano filter went between the engine block and the radiator top, it trapped an amazing amount of casing sand and wire bits that would otherwise run through the water pump.
On Tuesday, December 29, 2020, 10:32:35 AM PST, Ken Nelson <citbuff@...
I had a '65 DS19 serviced by Scott Curtis yrs ago - he put Frantz filters on this car, and many others. I have to say I never saw cleaner oil than in that car which I had to sell - to a guy in Holland. Scott did all sorts of weird things, like mounting tiny closet lights everywhere in the eng. compartment so he could see without using a flashlight I'n guessing. The filter had a gauge and did an amazing job even being a bypass filter. So I have to give it credit for keeping the oil looking like new, when on these pre-filter engines, the oil was always pretty dark.
Scott gave me my one and only ride - drive in a Trihawk in the '80s - first he nearly broke my neck as he slammed the steering wheel side to side so fast my head became a pendulum. He took an offramp so fast I thought we'd go over the side but that R 5 front suspension and GS engine stuck like on rails. Then he let me drive it - I went to take a hard, fast L turn across a 4 lane hwy, had to touch the brakes due to oncoming car, rear end slid a bit on centerline gravel, but car handled nicely - no sweat - and I really got a kick out of the handling of that beauty. Wish I'd had the money and space - pocket rocket!
On Tue, Dec 29, 2020 at 12:14 PM Dale <daleice@...
For Dick T.
Thanks for the idea for using my old Franz filter that I took off of a Citroen DS!
I just got a plasma cutter and haven’t set it up yet…