Re: I got the no/low compression blues

Fred Cisin


For those not familiar with those cars:
The design is absolutely, totally, a Honda parallel twin motorcycle.
The differential was designed in (as if it were going to be for a three-wheeler); the reverse gear is an addition to the side, and looks like an afterthought.

With the jugs out, you can replace the slipper guide (with a little extra work repairing the dowel pin slots), but not the tensioner. And, an opportunity to repair all of the broken 6mmx1.0 screwholes in the top end.

The pivot of the swinging arm of the cam chain tensioner roller is down in the crankcase, and it is not designed to separate the roller from the arm. You have to "split the case" (same as engine overhaul or transmission) to undo the swinging arm to put in a new one. "Pulling the top end" is nothing (done in the car) compared to splitting the case (drop the subframe to pull the engine out, and then it is usual motorcycle bottom end job.)
SOME people have tried, with varying levels of problems, to detach the roller from its swinging arm and put a new roller from a new one on.

That is one more reason why it is very important that you did the right thing and checked the cam chain and cam timing and found that it was tight and had not slipped a tooth in the chain. The teeth of the cam gear are probably worn, but you can usually get away with that.

Grumpy Ol' Fred cisin@...

On Thu, 3 Dec 2020, Bruce Dewing via wrote:

It is because it's underneath the jugs and pulling the top end is such a PITA.  Not an issue here as the chain stretch test passed.

On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 11:09:26 PM PST, oddrodstjets via <oddrods@...> wrote:

If I remember correctly the cam chain tensioner is known to fail and is very difficult to replace.

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