Re: Kenwood D710A running APRSIS32 on Windows 10 tablet with serial to bluetooth adapter


Gil
 

It does sound as if you've had your challenges.  My setup is not uncomplicated but I've made it as tidy and neat as I can without going totally "wireless".  I do have the ability to use my D710A for Winlink.  There's a setup predetermined for that radio in Winlink and I just used that, dialed up the nearest gateway station and it worked.  Obviously it's not doing APRS at the same time - but my FTM-400 can run in APRS mode at the same time if necessary.

Here are a few more of the components I used for my arrangement:

This is the hub I got that also allows power to be fed to the Surface Go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXMNF1X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use one USB port for the connection to the D710A Control head with the PG-5 (?) cable and a serial to USB adapter.  Another USB port is used for the USB powered GPS receiver I use for the Surface Go.  The last port is used for the FTM-400XDR connection to the Surface Go for when I use that at the APRS radio with APRSIS32.  I got another el cheapo "regular" hub I can piggyback onto one of those ports to get a few more ports if necessary.

This is the mobile power supply I got to feed power to that hub:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FOOY32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was tempted to cut off the cigarette lighter plug and use Anderson Power Pole connectors but I didn't want to circumvent the fuse in the plug so I had to use an inline cigarette lighter socket with a Power Pole cord to feed that power supply.  I guess I could have put a Power Pole inline fuse into its power feed, but I already had the other parts.  I try to keep everything set up with Power Pole connectors.

I used two of these as the "disconnects" for the wiring to the vehicle battery (which is additionally fused at the battery) and for the wiring to the "radio" battery (which is also fused at the battery terminals - it's a big deep-discharge marine battery) that is hooked to a West Mountain Radio ISOPower+ isolation device.  That cut down on some control wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P4DZ2JT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The "radio" battery is in the back.  I was never quite sure how well the isolator gadget was working regarding charging that battery so I found one of these to keep an eye on it with my phone.  I would have preferred a Windows application, but I have to settle for my phone.:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCW49YM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I keep an eye on the engine electrical system voltage with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773BYS6P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, this all added up to a tidy sum, but I wanted to try to do this installation as well as I could.  It will serve me for many years.  I still have my other 15-year old vehicle from which I learned a lot about installing radios.  I plan to keep this one as long as possible too, so the cost will be spread out over many years.  I only get to do this infrequently...

Gil, WB2UTI



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